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Old 09-09-2015, 09:18 PM   #21
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In the winter we leave the boat 3 to 4 months at a time. We leave the boat the same as when we live on the boat. All seacocks below the water line are closed the seacocks above the water are open. A/C electric is on except the water heater, heat set for 70 degrees, and lights likes are left on. Dc domestic water is turned of. So when we get back the boat the lights are on and the boat is warm.

I installed a Boatnanny security alarm the send a text status every day and if an alarm goes off. It monitors two bilge floats, temperature in the bilge and salon, sound, motion, AC electricity, and I can call for a status report or listen. So if a bilge, smoke, fire, CO, propane alarm goes off the sound sends a message. So thousands of miles away, I can monitor the boat.
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Old 09-09-2015, 09:46 PM   #22
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Wow!

I leave every thing on, but close the sea cocks.

The hold n treat goes to "no discharge" mode

Except...

In the winter I leave one of the diesel furnaces on freeze protect mode. Keeps the boat above freezing, and dry inside so no mold come spring. Burns about a hundred gallons of diesel during the 5 month lay up.

I also set two of the 750 watt electric built in heaters to 35 degrees.

and I turn the water pump and vacuflush heads off.

Yes the boat is fully winterized, and yes I hire a boat watch company to check on it weekly, which includes a interior walk through.

I also have a alarm system that alerts me if there is a problem, and several cameras I stare at longingly daily.
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Old 09-09-2015, 10:52 PM   #23
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I've thought long and hard about each of these settings. No guarantee my thinking is right. Of course, each boat and berth is different and each decision depends on one's own circumstances, but here's what I came up with:

3 Seacocks - OPEN

I have replaced all the hoses and all are in excellent shape. My hull is notorious for being overbuilt. My seacocks are in great shape and get exercised quarterly. My greatest risk here is forgetting to open the seacocks before departure. I choose to take the risk with the hose over my own 'pilot error'.

ER Lights - OFF

I operate them ON/OFF from a CB at the main panel. I have a switch in the ER, but prefer them ON when using the ER video cameras. This way I can operate them from the helm, not needing to climb into the ER to turn them off.

Battery Charger - ON

I experimented for a period with leaving the start battery off the charger while away. (I left the house charger on at all times.) Shortly after I started this test, the start batt began to drop. One cell was bogging down a bit. About the same time, my charger died, so I bought a new one with a 4th stage of charging...the equalization stage. I returned the start batt to the charger schedule and it has recovered beautifully.

I thought I'd have to replace the start batt, but now it's fine. Lesson learned: Use 4 stage charging to lengthen the life of the batts.


Pressure Water - OFF

If a water line fails, I don't want the fresh water pump running nonstop.

Water Heater - OFF

If a line fails and drains the water tank, I don't want the water heater powered and burning up.

Horn Air - OFF

If an air line breaks, I don't want the air pump running non-stop.

Inverter - OFF

All my A needs are met with shore power. In the event of a shore AC failure, the only critical item is a fridge full of bait or food. (see fridge comments)

120V Fridge - ON/EMPTY

One time my diver left my boat unplugged. Fortunately, I returned the next day and caught the error. I still lost the salmon roe bait in the 120V freezer, but no real problem. Now, I leave all my bait in the 12V freezer with the food and beer there, too.

12v/120V Fridge - ON

If the 120V fails, the 12V kicks in an keeps the food/bait/beer cold.

120V Countertop Fan - ON

The improved circulation helps with boat smells and retards mold growth. I really haven't had a problem with either, but I chalk that up to keeping the air moving.

Winter ER 120V Heater - ON

I do this at the recommendation of my friend, Giggitoni. When I kept my boat in the CA Delta, I never had an issue with high humidity levels in the ER. When I moved to the Bay area fringe zone, I was cautioned that it can be a problem. So I moved my oil-filled radiator style heater to the ER for winter duty.

Winter Cabin 120V Ceramic Heater - ON

The warmer the air is, the less moisture settles on the boat's interior surfaces. Keeping my boat warm eliminates mold threat and makes it a whole lot more comfortable when I show up.

Winter Dri-Z-Air Dispensers - FILLED

These gems remove lots of moisture from the air and keep mold at bay.

All other AC and DC circuits remain powered in my absence.

I want power to my outlets, bilge pumps, and lights. I could selectively turn off many breakers, but I don't see the sense in that. If it's not a problem with driving motors or pumps in the event of a failure, they stay powered.
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Old 09-09-2015, 11:18 PM   #24
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At the same latitude (and marina) as Al, we haven't noticed any negative effects from alleged raised humidity, if any, during winter or otherwise. So we don't run a heater when not in the boat (or rarely when we are.)

Water and air pumps are definitely "off" when we're not onboard as well as radar, gps plotter, fish finder, and such. Any flags are taken down too.
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Old 09-10-2015, 12:33 AM   #25
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Where exactly do you berth your boat, Wayfarer????
Slip #45. You can't miss it. I keep one of these on the dock:
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Old 09-10-2015, 12:52 AM   #26
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Slip #45. You can't miss it. I keep one of these on the dock:
LOL!! I should be able to find it then!
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Old 09-10-2015, 06:03 AM   #27
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No shore power , so 2 8-D batts with 85W solar and two bilge pumps , one higher than the other.
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Old 09-10-2015, 06:35 AM   #28
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I had a list, but I lost it. So now I just wing it(to borrow a term), normally I remember to turn off the engines before I hit the dock, well mostly.

I won't forget to turn the BBQ off after last time, the club rang and said my BBQ cover was smoking,still it needed replacing anyway.

Seacocks, I had no idea you could close them, as I said to my surveyor before they told me not to bother sending them any more money each year, that has saved a bit.

Lights, you can't beat a dozen or so candles, just watch out for the curtains, and remember to blow them out before hoping off, or buy some of those fire resistant ones, the type they use in the cinemas(ever since that dreadful accident)

Isn't it great growing old with your boat, trouble is remembering where you left it sometimes.Still that's what wives are for.
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Old 09-10-2015, 07:50 AM   #29
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How do you configure your boat when you are away from it?

3 thru hulls with ball valves left open--AC, generator, toilet inlet.

1 real seacock on main left open

I have been leaving the AC on dehumidify mode lately. Seems to work OK. So AC RW pump is left on.

DC only fridge and freezer left on so battery charger stays on. However, if the AC at the dock goes out for some reason it will kill my new, expensive, AGM house bank so not sure that a good idea. Does AC at the dock go out often?

All other DC switches off.
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Old 09-10-2015, 09:59 AM   #30
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All 12V off
120V on
charger on
AC off but cheap fans on
At times I have added a dehumidifier this is FL


In cooler weather I have left cabin doors open and disconnected power cord.


Well paid up insurance []
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Old 09-10-2015, 01:40 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonewo View Post
... All four bilge pumps are powered via a single breaker on the 32v panel but the audio alarm associated with the bilge pumps are powered by 12v breaker. Both AC and DC power panels are set up so just about everything has its own breaker/power supply. And the refrigerator is 110 or 12v.*...

*
I usually don't give these kinds of answers, but after reading this several times it seems pretty clear - Having ALL of your bilge pumps connected to a single breaker is a serious problem for 2 reasons. First if any one pump goes bad you lose ALL of your pumping ability. Second, it is not possible to use a breaker of the correct size that will allow even 2 pumps to run simultaneously and yet trip at the correct current for a single failed pump. You don't mention how the automatic functions of the pumps are wired, but IMO it is best to wire each automatic pump circuit separately - through a properly sized fuse or breaker - to a separate battery or bank. It should also not be possible to turn off the automatic function, because if it can be done, it someday will be.

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Old 09-10-2015, 08:26 PM   #32
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Ken, I was not real clear, the one CB on the DC power panel powers four separate Rule panels, see picture. Each panel has it's own fuse, so if one bilge pump blows a fuse the other three still have power.
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Old 09-10-2015, 08:57 PM   #33
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Wow, great responses. I'm amazed how many leave the sea cocks open.

I'm paranoid about them, no way I could sleep if they were open. With my boats history you would think I would be ok with it, my boat was damaged in Katrina sold at auction and sat in the water neglected, unused with no power or batteries with all sea cocks open(including the two underwater ones for the toilets with the white pvc hose) for SEVEN YEARs until I bought her in 2012. Best I can tell none of the strainers, hoses or seacocks ever leaked a drop.

Anyways, I will continue to close them and attach the key to start the engine to the handle of the seacock for the cooling water.

I leave the boat with the shore power connected, both battery charges on, 12v battery switch to one or two(never both, two different size 12v batteries), DC to DC charger for the thruster off, frig on 110v, auto bilge pump power on. Everything else off.

One of my questions was how to configure the 32v battery switch, 1, 2 or both. It would make sense to leave it in both, if shore power fails then I would have max battery life for the bilge pumps if needed, but I'm concerned even though the two banks are identical one it 8 months older... will the older bank harm the newer bank? Or am I overthinking this?
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:10 PM   #34
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3 hours away and try and get down every couple weeks
Seacocks closed - with sign
Bilge pumps on
All other DC off
Shore power on
Fridge on
Battery charger on
Small fans and dehumidifier (drains to sink) on timers - has kept the south texas humidity in check this summer
Doors locked but Keys on flybridge
And usually forget something
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Old 09-11-2015, 05:29 AM   #35
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Wow, great responses. I'm amazed how many leave the sea cocks open.
My thought also... all my hoses and seacocks are new but it takes a minute to close my three. I wouldn't be able to sleep at night. I really like the idea of having a note on the ignition indicating the seacocks are open!
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Old 09-11-2015, 02:30 PM   #36
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I'm amazed how many leave the sea cocks open.
I amazed to at how many leave the shore power connected. This is my first boat with shore power and all I seem to hear is that I should not leave it connected because of stray current and my zincs being eaten quickly then the metal in contact with the water will be eaten next. I have read a lot about this subject and am quite confused.
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Old 09-11-2015, 02:41 PM   #37
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You have received some bad information, if you are having stray current eating away your zincs then you have an issue that needs to be resolved and disconnecting is not the answer. Walk down any dock and you'll see almost all with them plugged in.

One thing I see on my dock with more then one boat is leaving the air conditioning on, I would not recommend that.
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I amazed to at how many leave the shore power connected. This is my first boat with shore power and all I seem to hear is that I should not leave it connected because of stray current and my zincs being eaten quickly then the metal in contact with the water will be eaten next. I have read a lot about this subject and am quite confused.
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Old 09-11-2015, 03:13 PM   #38
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I keep the boat behind my house and none of my neighbors have boats requiring shore power. Based on that, I would not think there would be any stray current. Is there an easy way to check? My zincs do not seem to have any excessive wear but I would like to be on the safe side.
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Old 09-11-2015, 06:32 PM   #39
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Being at a mooring, when away from the boat I keep all power off except the automatic pumps. 2 main engine, gen and one head seacock open. I hear the concern about leaving seacocks open and I share it, but with all (almost) new high quality seacocks and hoses and intimate knowledge of them I CAN sleep at night.

If I were at a slip, I would leave the battery charger and maybe the fridge on.

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Old 09-12-2015, 02:42 AM   #40
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AC power on
Charger on
Fridge on if there is food in it, if no trip coming up, turn it off and clean it out.
Four bilge pumps in auto, two per batt bank.
Sea cocks open
Aircons off
Everything else off.
Pretty much the same.
I also have rope led lights outlining pilot house on shore power, so if they go off, my watchers know to call me.
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