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Old 07-17-2019, 06:22 AM   #1
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House fridge door lock

Some folks seem to prefer a 120v house fridge to a marine unit.

One hassle is keeping the door closed in motion.

Not elegant but here are low cost RV solutions'

(http://damondiva.blogspot.com/2015/12/refrigerator-l
ock.html
)

(http://damondiva.blogspot.com/2015/12/refrigerator-l
ock.html
)
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Old 07-17-2019, 08:09 AM   #2
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I use a screen door barrel lock.
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Old 07-17-2019, 08:12 AM   #3
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Inelegant? My solution is a strip of 1.5" Velcro between fridge door and body; same with freezer. Works great.
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Old 07-17-2019, 09:41 AM   #4
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Good stuff. Simple solutions for a pain in the transom problem.
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Old 07-17-2019, 11:05 AM   #5
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Old 07-17-2019, 03:36 PM   #6
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I currently have the solution RT Firefly showed, but I want a new frig - another AC house model - and was considering the options for keeping the doors closed. There are many variations of childproof locks for doors from full size to cabinet. Most are inexpensive and effective. I've a set to try when I get my new frig, but I won't recommend the design I chose because I haven't tried them yet. If I try them and don't like them, they'll remove easily and be replaced until I find a solution I do like.
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Old 07-17-2019, 04:07 PM   #7
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Be VERY CAREFUL mounting hardware to any of the newer refer's. Almost all units now have freon grid lines running just under the sheet metal. I've personally seen multiple, brand new, never used refers destroyed when a worker drilled into the sheet metal to attach some closure unit and punctured a freon line.
We've switched to the simple velcro straps, either screwed to the wood frame or glued to the refer itself.
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Old 07-17-2019, 04:49 PM   #8
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Be VERY CAREFUL mounting hardware to any of the newer refer's. Almost all units now have freon grid lines running just under the sheet metal. I've personally seen multiple, brand new, never used refers destroyed when a worker drilled into the sheet metal to attach some closure unit and punctured a freon line.
We've switched to the simple velcro straps, either screwed to the wood frame or glued to the refer itself.
If you like the style FF linked, most domestic refrigerators have reversible doors. Where the device goes, there often are at least 2 screw holes plugged that you switch the door hinge to. Should be pretty easy to attach in those screw holes without hitting a freon line.

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Old 07-17-2019, 06:27 PM   #9
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Greetings,
Re: Post # 7. We have a domestic fridge purchased at Home Depot. I called the manufacturer and the techy I spoke to said the location I'd chosen for drilling mounting holes for the hook and loop were acceptable. One hook for fridge door and another for freezer door.
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Old 07-17-2019, 07:19 PM   #10
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Inelegant? My solution is a strip of 1.5" Velcro between fridge door and body; same with freezer. Works great.
This, or even painter's tape will work on most fridges. On our big Sub Zero side by side, we only used the tape when we knew it would be very rough. All you want to do with anything like this, such as other furniture, is stop it from getting any momentum. Doesn't take much.
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Old 07-17-2019, 09:28 PM   #11
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Keep them Idea’s coming gang. I’m searching for a good one myself. So far the doors have stayed closed and we have done a bit of rockin and rollin down the coast so far. Good thing we have a bungee ready Incase.
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Old 07-18-2019, 05:48 AM   #12
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Check with RV supply places.
Many newer motorhomes are being built as all electric with home fridges run off a larger house bank and inverter.
Several different lock configurations for different door styles.
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Old 07-18-2019, 08:19 AM   #13
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https://www.amazon.com/MUIN-DL-B-Ref.../dp/B0797MXM1D
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P394CXM..._t1_B0797MXM1D
https://www.amazon.com/Proofing-Adhe...7GSNQKZFAH7KSN
no screws.

Side rolling wont open my home fridge on the boat as the door faces to the bow.
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Old 07-18-2019, 09:30 AM   #14
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How about pitch?
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Old 07-18-2019, 09:56 AM   #15
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How about pitch?
It has never forced the doors open yet.

You could use a wood pole, one end secured to floor, other above fridge. I have room to do that. Set it on door side that opens. Strong enough could be designed as a handhold.
Or how about bungee cord to the handle from side to back of fridge
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Old 07-18-2019, 01:18 PM   #16
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It has never forced the doors open yet.

You could use a wood pole, one end secured to floor, other above fridge. I have room to do that. Set it on door side that opens. Strong enough could be designed as a handhold.
Or how about bungee cord to the handle from side to back of fridge
My plan originally included bungee cord.
Before you go that route, keep in mind you don't want it tight. The refrigerator door seal is designed to seal correctly with the door and the box parallel. Compressing the door seal more than it's supposed to be (especially at the top of the door instead of the middle) could create a problem with the seal where it may leak when the bungee is not in place.

I would favor any lock that doesn't try to close the door further but just prevents it from moving.

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Old 07-18-2019, 02:34 PM   #17
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I have a professional dislike for all things bungee. Yeah I use them, but I would try to stay away from any bungee cord that would be near eye level for adults or children.


I think hook and loop would be the easiest, cheapest, and safest. The self adhesive hook and loop works amazingly well. I'd put a strip of the hook on the side of the fridge near the door and then a strip of hook on the door near the edge. Then just a longer piece of loop to go around the corner. I've done this on fridges in the past and it works great.
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Old 07-18-2019, 03:03 PM   #18
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I have a professional dislike for all things bungee. Yeah I use them, but I would try to stay away from any bungee cord that would be near eye level for adults or children.


I think hook and loop would be the easiest, cheapest, and safest. The self adhesive hook and loop works amazingly well. I'd put a strip of the hook on the side of the fridge near the door and then a strip of hook on the door near the edge. Then just a longer piece of loop to go around the corner. I've done this on fridges in the past and it works great.
Good idea. I have hook and loop holds down my truck bed cover on the side, and it never has failed.
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Old 07-23-2019, 09:53 AM   #19
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I have top-opening. Just turn yours on its back.
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Old 07-27-2019, 07:30 AM   #20
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The following caution was lifted from an RV board.


Just a bit of information that I found out the hard way. New fridges and freezers, and washers and dryers all have computers. If you don't have a sure protector on them, and you have a surge, your computer is toast. I installed a brand new freezer in my garage, but it woudn't quite fit without trimming a shelf. I got out my Skilsaw and trimmed the shelf. Of course I plugged it into the same outlet. That was it for the freezer. I called an old-timer repairman, who said he didn't work on new fangled stuff, but he was kind enough to tell me the problem. For about $70 I replaced the mother board and snapped it in place. Freezer is still working, and all of my electonic devices now have cheap surge protection on them. ***************
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