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Old 09-09-2016, 01:41 PM   #21
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I believe the keyword would be ignition protected when it comes to gas , please correct me if I'm wrong.
You are correct, sir!

Ignition Protection
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Old 09-09-2016, 02:14 PM   #22
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I believe the keyword would be ignition protected when it comes to gas , please correct me if I'm wrong.
Yes!
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Old 09-09-2016, 02:32 PM   #23
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Your multimeter needs a new battery
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Old 09-09-2016, 02:38 PM   #24
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It's very important to point out here that Art has GASSERS! Many chargers including the Iota are not to be used in gasoline engine ER's.

Art, you seem intent to maintain the 1970's technology in your boat. Voltmeters vs. SOC, single-stage charger vs. multi-stage chargers. It's going to be hard to find operating, old technology equipment in our modern world. There's a reason folks have moved to 3- and 4-stage chargers...because they work.
Al - You are pretty much correct on all counts. However, on the bold counts there are reasons why I stay old school.

1. Simplicity - - > KISS is my mantra... especially on boats!
2. Reduced charger/readout breakdowns, due to reduced parts and complexities.
3. I don't keep boat plugged in when not on board for more than couple hours (for corrosion reasons I isolate all batts and also isolate boat from dock). I don't leave gen set running when not at boat. Therefore, all I need is on/off full-tilt-bogie charger input when I feel, from multi meter reading, that house bank batts need to be topped off. I don't often let them get much past 60% reserve amps before bringing em back-up to 100% charge. Due to that fact - Many more cycles provided by deep cycle wet cell batts than if deeper discharge is allowed
4. Affordability at onset and over the long run. Don't forget - single stage charger currently failing is 39 yrs old and multi meters work just as well with new single stage charger installed.

That said: We'll see what I settle upon.

Thanks to all for your input.
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Old 09-09-2016, 02:43 PM   #25
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Your multimeter needs a new battery
Yuk, Yuk!

All my batts are fine, (inc multi meter's).

Batt charger - not so fine!
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Old 09-09-2016, 07:54 PM   #26
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Art, I'm not seeing a 60 +/- amp charger ignition protected from a respected company. My thought would be to consider mounting the charger out of the engine room, maybe near the switch panel, where you might be able to see it. Then it wouldn't need to be ignition protected. In that case either a Charles or an Iota would be a good choice.

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Old 09-09-2016, 08:38 PM   #27
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Art, I'm not seeing a 60 +/- amp charger ignition protected from a respected company. My thought would be to consider mounting the charger out of the engine room, maybe near the switch panel, where you might be able to see it. Then it wouldn't need to be ignition protected. In that case either a Charles or an Iota would be a good choice.

Ted
Thanks, Ted

That's what I mentioned to Linda when the 1977 Professional Mariner charger blew this past week. Only real reason I'd rather have one that is ignition protected and have it in the ER/compartment is I don't want to take up any sole space in boat's salon. Guess I could fit it inside a nice, well ventilated wood-cased stand that simply elevates our auto open/close stainless steel trash receptacle - we call her Sally!
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Old 09-09-2016, 08:50 PM   #28
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How about a Newmar? Surely they are ignition protected. Was the failed one a ferro-resonant type?
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Old 09-09-2016, 09:19 PM   #29
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Newmar makes a 40 amp ($625) and an 80 amp ($1,150) ignition protected charger. BTW, the 80 amp draws 12 amps 120 VAC. Something to consider in your AC load management.

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Old 09-09-2016, 09:22 PM   #30
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How about a Newmar? Surely they are ignition protected. Was the failed one a ferro-resonant type?
I believe so.
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Old 09-09-2016, 09:32 PM   #31
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Newmar makes a 40 amp ($625) and an 80 amp ($1,150) ignition protected charger. BTW, the 80 amp draws 12 amps 120 VAC. Something to consider in your AC load management.

Ted
Thanks, Ted - I'm looking into Newmar now.
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Old 09-09-2016, 09:54 PM   #32
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Art, I`ve an ancient OEM Newmar ferro resonant. I only use it on the hook,I`m there to turn it on and off, it works well enough. Having solar I don`t leave the boat on shorepower when docked (unless pulling down the eutectic fridges), no need for battery charging, solar sees to that. I know there are better modern chargers, even my solar ones are 4 stage. If replacing mine, I`d expect to update to a multistage, probably no other option new. A used one might be a possibility.
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Old 09-10-2016, 01:30 AM   #33
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Blue Sea Systems 7521 P12 Battery Charger 25A


These are ignition protected. No claim by me as to quality.
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Old 09-10-2016, 05:32 AM   #34
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If you are cruising and spend much time on the hook, 40A charging is pretty wimpy as it probably does 25A most of the time.

A pulley on the noisemaker with a truck 135A alt and a smart 3-4 step Volt regulator might cut the charge times in half , and keep the batts at a higher charge level for longer life.

Plugged into a marina 20A should take care of the DC loads while you are onboard , and with almost unlimited time charge the house just fine.
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Old 09-10-2016, 07:04 AM   #35
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Bay Pelican has a 20 amp charger which will accept both European 220v and North Amerivan 110v current. Have used it repeatedly over the years to charge the batteries in European current marinas while operating the bulk of the appliances on the inverter 110v output. Over the course of 24 hours the 20 amp charger is able to keep up with our daily power needs. Did the same on the Erie Canal where the only power was from a 15 amp plug run through an extension cord.
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Old 09-10-2016, 07:36 AM   #36
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"Did the same on the Erie Canal where the only power was from a 15 amp plug run through an extension cord."

It is excellent when a cruiser can be fully powered (except air cond) with just a 15A supply.
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Old 09-10-2016, 10:40 AM   #37
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If you are cruising and spend much time on the hook, 40A charging is pretty wimpy as it probably does 25A most of the time.

A pulley on the noisemaker with a truck 135A alt and a smart 3-4 step Volt regulator might cut the charge times in half , and keep the batts at a higher charge level for longer life.

Plugged into a marina 20A should take care of the DC loads while you are onboard , and with almost unlimited time charge the house just fine.
That's why I'm looking into 60 or even 80A chargers. That said... we are extremely frugal using power off House Batt Bank. 40A when charger was running correctly did well via running gen set hour plus in morning and evening while at anchor. It's a rather small, very old (about 14" wide x 24" tall - ? - Can be seen on avatar) solar panel on fly bridge front that charges gen set batt. Thinking of plastering bridge front with new panels that charge house bank too. Be great while out and about or at anchor... what we do nearly every time visiting boat. However, solar is null and void while boat is in covered slip; where it always rests waiting for our return.
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Old 09-10-2016, 10:55 AM   #38
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Art

Why not leave your boat plugged in while at the marina? I trust you leave power on at your house when you're at the boat.
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Old 09-10-2016, 11:01 AM   #39
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Actually, upon further investigation, no , they don't. They make combos,or just inverters. Charles Industies marine makes just a battery charger.They are known to be of very high quality(such as transformers).That combined with a magnum inverter only seems like a winning hand.
Dunno why you would go that route. If you want an inverter and a charger just get a Magnum all in one. Magnum is at least the quality of the Charles. Coincidently, I have both on my boat!!!
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Old 09-10-2016, 11:58 AM   #40
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Art

Why not leave your boat plugged in while at the marina? I trust you leave power on at your house when you're at the boat.
Boat and house are two completely different entities with completely different electricity conduction needs/circumstances, that sit on two completely different electricity conduits, i.e. water and dry ground.

I unplug boat to limit metal corrosions as well as galvanization occurrences. I also completely isolate the DC batts before leaving boat.


Could say that I leave boat's parts completely isolated from all electric connections... that I possibly can.
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