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Old 07-28-2015, 08:56 AM   #21
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If the mixing valve is a Watts part of your yearly maintenance should be to turn the valve handle fully to both positions a couple times then return it to the normal position that you (hopefully) marked. I had these on the Aquahot on my RV and they occasionally will calcium up and start sticking. BTW the guts are replaceable in these. Just buy a new valve, remove the guts and install them in the valve.
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Old 07-28-2015, 09:28 AM   #22
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Hot water

I think I'm going to try the low hanging fruit. First disconnect, clean hoses and connections and then back flush the tank heat exchanger. I'll try that and post a result. BTW we have no mixing valve. Loon
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Old 07-29-2015, 06:00 AM   #23
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I think I'm going to try the low hanging fruit. First disconnect, clean hoses and connections and then back flush the tank heat exchanger. I'll try that and post a result. BTW we have no mixing valve. Loon

These are on the antifreez loop in the engine.

Cleaning is usually not requirred

I would look for a kink in the hose circuit to the HW heater.
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Old 07-29-2015, 06:05 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loon View Post
I think I'm going to try the low hanging fruit. First disconnect, clean hoses and connections and then back flush the tank heat exchanger. I'll try that and post a result. BTW we have no mixing valve. Loon
Absolutely the right way to go in my experience. Worked for me, and I was able to stop there.
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Old 07-29-2015, 07:04 AM   #25
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Quote:
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I think I'm going to try the low hanging fruit. First disconnect, clean hoses and connections and then back flush the tank heat exchanger. I'll try that and post a result. BTW we have no mixing valve. Loon

Constant hot water likely leads to collapsed hoses. If the hoses aren't really hot leading to and from the HWH then I would suspect a collapsed kinked hose. Are they soft? The hot water from the engine should have antifreeze in it. This has anti corrosion inhibitors. The engine side of this loop should be fine corrosion wise. Calcium build up would possibly be on the actual freshwater side INside the HWH. If the engine coolant is flowing freely then I would suspect your HWH needs de scaling. Vinegar, and a couple hours.

You never responded (that I caught); Is the engine running at normal temps when hot? A broken thermostat on the coolant side could allow the water to not get as warm as it used to, mimicking the low temp issue in the HWH. Thermostats break Open when they break. Letting more unrestricted cooling water into the system.
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Old 07-29-2015, 07:34 AM   #26
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I am not sure if the kind of engine(s) have been mentioned.

If saltwater cooled...plugging is very common...but I agree not for those in a coolant loop unless the engine sat for a long period of time and a lot of rust built up. Or as some post, the antifreeze has gelled from mixing different kinds.

Checking for flow will eliminate clogging or clasped hose issues unless using a lot of pressure.
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Old 07-29-2015, 08:13 AM   #27
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Gotta be honest. The old salt water cooled engines never even entered my mind. I would have thought in this modern day and age....... Well, Look at Washington.
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Old 07-30-2015, 10:39 AM   #28
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This Perkins 6cyl is 1982 vintage uses an antifreeze loop w/ no mixing valve. The engine has always run at the same temperature 185 degrees F. There are very short runs to and from the engine and do not appear misshapen in any way. I suppose the is a calcification possibly in the HWT since the venerable gentleman we bought it from used it very little for the three years previous. What is the easiest way to introduce vinegar or descaler into the HWH?
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Old 07-30-2015, 12:37 PM   #29
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As long as both hoses are HOT to the touch, then it would appear the HWH is cruddedup. here is a visual of how I cleaned mine, as well as the Renai hot water heater in my house. Works just fine, and only takes about 15 minutes (after setup) to get done.
And, you can shop for the cheapest, gallon jug-o-vinegar at any store. Doesn't have to be brand name. Click image for larger version

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I had to rinse my entire system this spring, because all the calcium had broken loose and was clogging each and every faucet on boat. If I had my druthers, I would have liked to cleaned the HWH tank, and kept the crud out of the lines and faucets. Live and learn!
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Old 07-30-2015, 12:45 PM   #30
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This Perkins 6cyl is 1982 vintage uses an antifreeze loop w/ no mixing valve.
The mentioned mixing valve (Tempering valve) would be installed on the Potable side, not on the engine side. It could be a simple valve which interconnects between the hot and cold supply line anywhere from the HWtank to the first faucet.

To be honest, I haven't seen many boats with them installed. (even my 120' tugboat!) Hot water is HOT.
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Old 07-30-2015, 12:56 PM   #31
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On my old hot water heater....the mixing valve was actually connected to both...as the water heater got too hot, it started shutting down the flow from the engine coolant lines.

I think though the OP said there were no mixing valves.
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Old 07-30-2015, 05:58 PM   #32
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On my old hot water heater....the mixing valve was actually connected to both...as the water heater got too hot, it started shutting down the flow from the engine coolant lines.

I think though the OP said there were no mixing valves.
I bet it was not interconnected between antifreeze side and potable side.

Looking at My heater, Seaward Water Heaters
It shows an 'option' of having a tempering valve installed. I do believe that now that I know about it, I will install one. I am constantly worried the GrandKids will scald themselves the water is SO hot coming out of the faucets.

Looking at these lets me see how easy they are installed. http://www.isotherm-parts.com/index....187a0ac0fe111d

Using the stainless reinforced poly hoses with the crimped on connectors seems too easy to be true. I will have to open up the boat fund next week.
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Old 07-30-2015, 06:14 PM   #33
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I bet it was not interconnected between antifreeze side and potable side.

Looking at My heater, Seaward Water Heaters
It shows an 'option' of having a tempering valve installed. I do believe that now that I know about it, I will install one. I am constantly worried the GrandKids will scald themselves the water is SO hot coming out of the faucets.

Looking at these lets me see how easy they are installed. http://www.isotherm-parts.com/index....187a0ac0fe111d

Using the stainless reinforced poly hoses with the crimped on connectors seems too easy to be true. I will have to open up the boat fund next week.
Obviously not ibterconnected...but both sides did enter the valve, and it was screwed into the coolant inlet of the heater.
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Old 07-30-2015, 06:17 PM   #34
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Looking for such a valve. Having trouble finding one. Recall any names off it?
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Old 07-30-2015, 06:23 PM   #35
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Sorry....it was older and I didn't keep it when switching water heaters.
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Old 07-30-2015, 07:46 PM   #36
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Looking for such a valve. Having trouble finding one. Recall any names off it?
Just look for "thermostatic mixing valve" on the Home Depot web site. They have them now with SharkBite connections so you can hook up to PEX, which is what I'm slowly converting everything to.

Just to be clear, you don't want a "tempering valve" unless it says it's thermostatically controlled. Otherwise you just get a pre-set mixture of hot and cold. Since your "hot" isn't consistent, the output temperature won't be consistent. The thermostat is there to mix the correct amounts to give you the output temperature you want.
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Old 07-31-2015, 06:30 AM   #37
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"uses an antifreeze loop w/ no mixing valve".

Dont be so sure .

Some brands of HW heaters "temper" the water simply by shutting off or slowing down the engine coolant.

IF there is an "item" where the engine water comes out of the HW unit , you have one.

Remove it and the domestic water will get to engine temperature.

Dangerous for kids aboard.
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Old 07-31-2015, 07:50 AM   #38
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IF there is an "item" where the engine water comes out of the HW unit , you have one.

Remove it and the domestic water will get to engine temperature.

Dangerous for kids aboard.

Might you have a pic of what this item looks like? Are they brand dependent? Or would an ordinary tempering valve work?

All I know is when my boat is running the water comes out of the faucet at 180. Way too hot. So you have seen these valves on both the engine side as well as the potable side?
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Old 07-31-2015, 08:01 AM   #39
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Whale products makes a mixing valve.

http://www.whalepumps.com/marine/sit...MixerValve.pdf
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Old 07-31-2015, 09:00 AM   #40
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The home depot temperature regulator is here:

Cash Acme Heatguard Tank Booster-24409 - The Home Depot

and it fits across the hot water and cold water ports of a water heater. All it does is temper the output temp by watering it down with cold water so the output is always at 120 degrees F, regardless of how much higher the tank temp gets. It also makes the hot water supply last longer if you have ladies aboard

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