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Old 03-24-2018, 12:13 PM   #1
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Help !! Canít stop water

The screw off the impeller plate broke .. I have shut off the seacock but water is still dripping from the impeller housing . What else should I do to stop the water ??
Thanks
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Old 03-24-2018, 12:16 PM   #2
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Rescue tape might help.
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Old 03-24-2018, 12:30 PM   #3
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In addition to applying tape... Make sure bilge pumps can be kept active as needed. Hopefully you [or a mechanic] can immediately [very soon at latest] easy out screw remains, [drill out if required]. Then tap new thread if needed and replace cover with gasket.

Can you post photos?
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Old 03-24-2018, 12:46 PM   #4
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Greetings,
Mr. K. Don't panic! Unless your seacock is leaking (not likely BUT possible), the dripping water is most probably the residual cooling water left in the block above the level of the water pump. It should soon stop. If not, the above advice is applicable.
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Old 03-24-2018, 12:53 PM   #5
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I agree with RT. Once the seacock is closed the only water coming out would be flowing back from the engine.
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Old 03-24-2018, 01:01 PM   #6
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If the water continues , one solution is to pull the hose from the pump (you will need to do that to repair the pump anyway) and stick a dowel or anything into the hose and clamp tight.

When your at the boat store for pump parts , pick up a set of wooden emergency plugs made for emergency leak use.
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Old 03-24-2018, 01:02 PM   #7
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3rd RT . THere will be water in the hoses and the heat exchanger.
When you start the repair take the pump off and to home to do the work.
Rig some kind of pan/foil/plastic to direct the remaining water into the bilge. Minimize what splashes around maybe onto wiring.
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Old 03-24-2018, 01:31 PM   #8
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Yup...no worries. As mentioned, it's just the water sitting higher than the pump within the engine heat exchanger system hoses and the HX itself. If you pull the pump hose off, it'll all drain into a catch basin that you place under the hose.
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Old 03-24-2018, 01:47 PM   #9
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JUst had a thought????? If the screw head broke off and not the screw shank further down it may be possible to get ahold of the remaining shank with a pair of pliers and back it out.
That will require plate removal but not necessarily pump removal depending upon access.
Then replace ALL of the screws and also the gasket.

But if the pump has not been re/re for a few years then maybe time to do that.
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Old 03-24-2018, 02:09 PM   #10
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Kev

My 2 centavos worth -

Through hulls and raw water pumps can be a boater's nemesis.

Some consider RW pumps as ripe for a total rebuild or throw away once beyond 3,000 hours or 15 to 20 years. How old is yours?

It is common that barnacles and crap can prevent a through hull from closing all the way. These valves are cheap- take off, clean out or replace maybe at next haul out.
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Old 03-24-2018, 03:20 PM   #11
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Got the water to stop .. I put some Rosen dowels in yo stop it ...I have s call into my mechanic . Thanks all
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Old 03-24-2018, 03:25 PM   #12
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I was warming up the engine to do a oil change and noticed water pouring from the water pump . I went to by HAND tighten the screws and they just snapped off two of them .. Iím very lucky it happened at the dock and not when we were in our cruise down and up the ICW
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Old 03-24-2018, 03:25 PM   #13
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Now how to get go about removing the water pump ?????
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Old 03-24-2018, 03:37 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunchaser View Post

Some consider RW pumps as ripe for a total rebuild or throw away once beyond 3,000 hours or 15 to 20 years. How old is yours?
We had ours rebuilt 12 mths ago when the pulley started wobbling while on passage.

The firm that did the $700 rebuild tried to tell me they need doing every year
Given the size of the pump they may have thought we were an actual trawler doing 57 hours a week or 3000 a year.
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Old 03-24-2018, 03:46 PM   #15
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Those look pretty crusty!
Hope that’s not representative of all the mechanical parts on your boat.
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Old 03-24-2018, 04:35 PM   #16
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Greetings,
Mr. K. Hand screws? Do you, by any chance, have a Speed-Seal cover plate on your WP?



If so, I second Mr. ka's comment. I hope the rest of your fastenings don't look like that.

As far as removing your WP. Probably the hardest part will be removal of the rubber hoses. The rest is simple wrenching. Watch your knuckles. The pump is heavy. You may need a new gasket as well (WP to block).
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Old 03-24-2018, 05:41 PM   #17
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Looking at what appears to be rusted/corroded [maybe just real dirty?? - but I think not] condition of those busted-off screw heads would tell me to check all over on the engine for other fasteners in similar "need-replacement" condition.


How old are those screws?


Best luck!


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Old 03-24-2018, 05:48 PM   #18
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Do you have a connection to the shaft log? Like a 3/8" hose from a small port on the pump that feeds the shaft log or a dripless seal. There's a connection that's real easy to overlook. Either put a small ball valve inline (NOT BRASS!!!) or probably more reliable, just gently clamp the hose between a smooth jaw vise-grip or a c-clamp on a pair of rounded pieces of wood. Just need to close off the hose to stop the flow without damaging the hose.
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Old 03-24-2018, 06:02 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KEVMAR View Post
I was warming up the engine to do a oil change and noticed water pouring from the water pump . I went to by HAND tighten the screws and they just snapped off two of them .. Iím very lucky it happened at the dock and not when we were in our cruise down and up the ICW



MY GOD whats the rest of the engine look like ???
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Old 03-24-2018, 06:02 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by RT Firefly View Post
Greetings,
Mr. K. Don't panic! Unless your seacock is leaking (not likely BUT possible), the dripping water is most probably the residual cooling water left in the block above the level of the water pump. It should soon stop. If not, the above advice is applicable.
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