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Old 11-19-2016, 09:37 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markpierce View Post
This is what my yardmaster applies to the Coot. Not sure of its properties.

Interlux Micron Extra is their standard ablative product.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomad Willy View Post
Is that Petit Barnacle Buster on the prop?.
It appears to be the Pettit zinc spray paint.
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Old 11-19-2016, 09:53 AM   #22
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The PO put Petit Trinidad on, February 2013. We are FW moored and spend about 3 months in SW June-September. No fouling except a layer of slime which is power washed off on the lowest possible setting. We have not yet repainted the bottom. No fouling on the propeller either. The main fouling culprits in the PNW are barnacles, which settle March-May.
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Old 11-19-2016, 04:08 PM   #23
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I see a lot of responses of people all over the country as to what they use. What is recommended for Alaska or Seattle or many other areas is really irrelevant. I would talk to people in my immediate area including shipyards. We're somewhat close to you and use only hard but there is a difference between South Florida and Central Florida, so be careful giving much weight to what we say or do. You might talk to some divers too.

Ablative in South Florida does not eliminate or really reduce bottom cleaning. It has one advantage and that is you don't build up layers of paint. One disadvantage and that is needing more frequent painting. I know some in our area who use ablative and paint annually.
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Old 11-19-2016, 04:40 PM   #24
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I am far from an expert so... The only thing I know is that my boat had an ablative antifouling fresh when I got it and after 1 season in fresh water it was still perfect when it was hauled.
I checked many times during the season and did not notice any fouling at all. I am travelling only at 7 knots and was using it every weekend or so. I would tend to think that hard paint would be better for cruisers going at higher speed as just the speed will be enough to remove any fouling while for slower boat ablative would be more efficient but I am a novice so do not mind me if I am wrong
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Old 11-19-2016, 05:00 PM   #25
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I am far from an expert so... The only thing I know is that my boat had an ablative antifouling fresh when I got it and after 1 season in fresh water it was still perfect when it was hauled.
I checked many times during the season and did not notice any fouling at all. I am travelling only at 7 knots and was using it every weekend or so. I would tend to think that hard paint would be better for cruisers going at higher speed as just the speed will be enough to remove any fouling while for slower boat ablative would be more efficient but I am a novice so do not mind me if I am wrong
You're not wrong for your boat, but you're in very different waters from the OP. I think everything you say holds true for Quebec. Just Central Florida is a different story.
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Old 11-19-2016, 05:49 PM   #26
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One note and that is that it is very important to know the paint on a boat before repainting it. You cannot use hard paint over ablative. You can use ablative over hard. Now, there are exceptions to those rules and each manufacturer has compatibility charts. Also, there are now semi-hard with some characteristics of each.

Most paint manufacturers recommend ablative over hard. Also, if your boat is taken out of the water for extended periods, you should not use hard. If the boat sits in the water for long periods with little use, then hard may be better.

The market has very much moved toward ablative with that contradicted only in certain areas of the country based on the waters of those areas.
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Old 11-19-2016, 07:19 PM   #27
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We did the Loop this year. When we left Ft. Myers in the spring, our bottom was a mess with several years of paint showing through in different colors. I planned to get the bottom done and was advised to wait. We would be in fresh water most of the Loop, so we would not need the antifoulant features most of the year. I had the bottom scrubbed in Morehead City, NC. When we got 3/4s of the Loop completed, we stopped in Iuka, Mississippi and had the boat hauled, all old paint scraped off, and then Micron CSC applied. I wish I had insisted on one layer of hard paint under the ablative but we shall see.
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Old 11-19-2016, 11:25 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BandB View Post
You cannot use hard paint over ablative.
Sorry, that is simply a wive's tale oft repeated in boatyards and on the docks.



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Old 11-19-2016, 11:57 PM   #29
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Sorry, that is simply a wive's tale oft repeated in boatyards and on the docks.



You quoted part of my post. and the rest of it was important to the comment. The other part was "Now, there are exceptions to those rules and each manufacturer has compatibility charts. Also, there are now semi-hard with some characteristics of each." And you provided a couple of those charts.

That said, many boatyards are still hesitant with combinations they haven't done previously.

I would encourage anyone to look at their product's charts. I would be very hesitant when switching across manufacturers and among items not reflected on the charts. Of course, some warn against mixing brands, period.
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Old 11-20-2016, 12:19 AM   #30
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Quote:
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You quoted part of my post.
Yes, I quoted the part of your post that was factually incorrect.
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Old 11-20-2016, 01:06 AM   #31
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[QUOTE=Nomad Willy;496974
Is that Petit Barnacle Buster on the prop? Didn't work for me. I went back to ArmorAll.[/QUOTE]

Willy,
Talk to me about the armor all coating? I never heard of that!
I tried Woody Wax for a couple of years, and although it didn't do anything to prevent growth on the metals, it sure made scraping off barnacles easy.
I am currently using lanolin grease, had it on for almost a year in warm water, also does not prevent growth, but makes cleaning easier.
Does not last on the prop.
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Old 11-20-2016, 01:45 AM   #32
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If you choose ablative, as I do, the running gear needs to be done in hard. At least that`s my experience, the ablative on the running gear was ineffective, too easily "ablated".
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Old 11-20-2016, 05:10 AM   #33
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What should I use on my sail/rowing Trinka dinghy? It's fiberglass and has never had bottom painted .We are in fresh water . The dinghy will be hanging on davits most of the time . It might sit in the water at the most a month in the slip with William . I have already sanded the bottom and plan on an epoxy barrier coat but not sure what to put on top of that .
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Old 11-20-2016, 08:30 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDCAVE View Post
The PO put Petit Trinidad on, February 2013. We are FW moored and spend about 3 months in SW June-September. No fouling except a layer of slime which is power washed off on the lowest possible setting. We have not yet repainted the bottom. No fouling on the propeller either. The main fouling culprits in the PNW are barnacles, which settle March-May.


Petit Trinidad which is a hard paint and lasts three years in Florida warm waters.
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Old 11-20-2016, 08:59 AM   #35
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What should I use on my sail/rowing Trinka dinghy? It's fiberglass and has never had bottom painted .We are in fresh water . The dinghy will be hanging on davits most of the time . It might sit in the water at the most a month in the slip with William . I have already sanded the bottom and plan on an epoxy barrier coat but not sure what to put on top of that .
Fresh water varies considerably from lake to lake or river to river. I would talk to the yard there and other local boaters and get their recommendation.

I grew up on small boats on fresh water and very few people used anti-fouling paint. I didn't even know about it when young. The chemical content on our lake was horrible, far worse than where you are, and even getting the bottom cleaned 4 times a year required the use of acid. Finally, one day I read about bottom paint and had it put on my next boat. Oh, if I had only known sooner.
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Old 11-20-2016, 09:05 AM   #36
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Quote:
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What should I use on my sail/rowing Trinka dinghy? It's fiberglass and has never had bottom painted .We are in fresh water . The dinghy will be hanging on davits most of the time .
You will need to use an ablative, as hard paints cannot withstand prolonged exposure to air.
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Old 11-20-2016, 12:15 PM   #37
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Dont worry about bumps

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I have to say, Great Responses from All, and it was what I was hoping to hear to help with my decision. The part about THE HARD paint building up and creating a problem in itself - and a need to sand or blast it off(over time), I hear in my wallet. One of the responses begs the question regarding the Painting of the Prop. Our Surveyor recommended NOT painting the props - keep em clean for preformance' sake. However I was told the Prop would be the first place the barnacles will attach. If we are moving pretty regularly on The Loop, that may not be a real issure for a year - especially after we make it to the Great Lakes.

Side Note: One of the things that tends to haunt me, is Bumping the Bottom on shifting shoals etc.....as we make it up the East Coast. Being the Positive Thinker(LOL), that I am, having to have the boat Hauled Out for a repair, will be my occasion to Clean the Props.


Thanks to All,
KIM

I find ablative on my ocean Alexander 456 to be ideal. I also used it on my 43-foot sailboat. Now, when the bottom gets very fouled i take her or for a short spin above 10 knots usually a few minutes at 15 or so, and it cleans things up.

Concerning ICW bumps. Make sure top use active captain and follow All the warnings. Never had a problem, even in my sail boat. In particular, pay attention top the postings by Bob423. He is always spot on.

Taking off years of hard paint can be a chore and expensive. I opt for ablative because it is so quick. Little bottom prep required. The bottom only needs to be clean. I have used West Marine PCA gold ablative with good results. Typically count on two years, but I paint the boat in between if I need to haul for some reason. I can slap on a coat of paint in a day. Two coats on a day and a half.

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Old 11-20-2016, 02:26 PM   #38
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I'm with Brooksie on Seahawk ablative. I get 2 years from it, pressure wash, and apply the next iteration. I use Prop Speed on the underwater hardware and get at least 2 years with that as well. I think P S will go 3 years, at least in our cold water.
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