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Old 05-25-2016, 01:19 PM   #21
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A labeled fuel manifold...


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Old 05-25-2016, 01:29 PM   #22
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A couple weeks ago I had to go in the hospital for some heart surgery . I knew we were going to be away from the boat a few days so we shut off all thru hulls . We are usually at the boat almost everyday . When we went back to the boat after being away we noticed the power was off at the marina . The first thing I thought of was starting the genny and getting everything charged back up. Well you guessed it I totally ignored my big fat sign saying
"OPEN THRU HULLS FIRST " and fired up the genny . It didn't sound so good so I shut it off quick . Then saw my note on the dash . There was no need in getting in such a hurry . Luckily I didn't toast the impeller .
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Old 05-25-2016, 01:44 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pack Mule View Post
"OPEN THRU HULLS FIRST " and fired up the genny . It didn't sound so good so I shut it off quick . Then saw my note on the dash . There was no need in getting in such a hurry . Luckily I didn't toast the impeller .
Been there, done that on two occasions. The first was the raw water feed for my engine on my Catalina 36. I didn't realize it until the high temp alarm went off.

Second time was on my genset on my new boat after changing the impeller. I had close the thru hull to do the change but forgot to open it again. Genny ran for about 15 seconds before I shut it down.

Great way to feel stupid.
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Old 05-25-2016, 02:07 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Poach View Post
How do others set their fuel transfer valves when underway?
With out knowing how your manifold is setup, how others set theirs is pretty meaningless.
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Old 05-25-2016, 02:16 PM   #25
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Fuel transfer manifold

Regarding labeling, all our fuel transfer valves have two labels. One printed normally, and one printed vertically. This way which ever way the valve is set, the label tells you in words printed "right side up"
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Old 05-25-2016, 02:39 PM   #26
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Regarding labeling, all our fuel transfer valves have two labels. One printed normally, and one printed vertically. This way which ever way the valve is set, the label tells you in words printed "right side up"
My fuel valve manifold is below a set of dual Racor filters. These are located low on the back ER wall and can easily be reached when the hatch is opened, even without getting down into the ER. However, they can NOT be easily seen. They are labeled, but to see the labels I have to contort to try and see them, then the labels are too close to be seen clearly with my old eyes.

I ended up putting labels on the plate between the Racors. That way I can change the valves by touch without having to actually look at them.

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Old 05-25-2016, 03:46 PM   #27
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Howard,

We have the same setup.

Bob

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Glad I'm not alone. Since I fill both tanks at the same time, the odds are bad fuel, if present will be in both tanks.
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Old 05-25-2016, 04:05 PM   #28
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Glad I'm not alone. Since I fill both tanks at the same time, the odds are bad fuel, if present will be in both tanks.
And most importantly, that works for you and your boat.

I usually like to know exactly what tank it's feeding from and returning to, but sometimes I do feed from both tanks.

My issue is that the return is not equal, as it favors the port tank.

Often I leave both returns open, just to equalize the tanks as needed.
Sometimes I polish fuel at the same time, sometimes I don't.

Pretty much any combo works as long as one feed and return are open.

I've tried running with no feed open, but it doesn't last for long.
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Old 05-25-2016, 04:12 PM   #29
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Pretty much any combo works as long as one feed and return are open.
As long as there's room in the return tank.
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Old 05-25-2016, 05:07 PM   #30
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When I shut off all the valves (summer storage) I use blue painters tape and tape over the start button on the engines and the start switch on the generator. Using a sharpie I mark "off" on the tape. So far this had reminded me to open the valves, but then so far I have remembered to open the valves first, then remove the tape.
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Old 05-25-2016, 05:15 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pack Mule View Post
A couple weeks ago I had to go in the hospital for some heart surgery . I knew we were going to be away from the boat a few days so we shut off all thru hulls . We are usually at the boat almost everyday . When we went back to the boat after being away we noticed the power was off at the marina . The first thing I thought of was starting the genny and getting everything charged back up. Well you guessed it I totally ignored my big fat sign saying
"OPEN THRU HULLS FIRST " and fired up the genny . It didn't sound so good so I shut it off quick . Then saw my note on the dash . There was no need in getting in such a hurry . Luckily I didn't toast the impeller .
I hang a #6 signal flag from my pre-heat switch on the mains and on the genny. That's to remind me to always to "check my 6". If only I could remember what that means...
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Old 05-25-2016, 07:59 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by janice142 View Post
That would be great Ted. My Racor500 does not have the metal bowl. It has that plastic turn gizmo thingy at the bottom. Pain in the posterior and I swear the next time I open it I'll write on the assembly which way to turn.

In stressful situations (like the darn boat stopping for instance) I kept opening when I intended to close the thing. Easily remedied however an arrow would be smarter for me.

I like labels, even on the Obvious stuff.

I noted the 1/4" NPT sizing. This is not a front burner project however it is a wish list item for certain. And hopefully I've got all the water out of the starboard tank though I'm not counting on that.

This morning I ran the polishing system for a while -- nothing. I need weight aft in the starboard corner (where the pickup point is) so that's on the To Do list.

Thanks to you (and Steve's link) I know what's required. Now I need to see if it will fit with my setup.

Thanks again!
Hi Janice,

Below is a link to the part you need. The insert in your bowl should unscrew. This bushing replaces it and seals to the bowl with an oring. A washer will be needed to make up for the space of the metal bowl. The bottom of the bushing is threaded 1/4" FPT. The Racor drain valves are pricey. A suitable valve should be easy to find. You will want to assemble the bushing and the valve before screwing the bushing into the plastic bowel.

Racor Bowel Bushing.

Ted
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