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Old 04-14-2014, 03:09 PM   #21
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I think most of us that worry about the bulging know about vents or none....or about how siphons work....

The jiggle siphons from harbor freight are like $7...$5 on sale...when the clear vinyl hose hardens.. I have found the cheap 1" corrugated bilge hose works good...
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Old 04-14-2014, 04:07 PM   #22
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Good Golly Folks!

Pouring fuel from a 5 gal container is not rocket science!!

Diesel weighs approx 7 lbs, gasoline approx 6 lbs per gallon.

In a 5 gal container filled with 4.5 gals (allowing for expansion) the approx content weight (avg 6.5 lbs per gal) weighs 29.25 lbs; even with weight of container at 5 to 6 lbs... that's still only 35 +/- lbs total. If you don’t have enough muscle to handle that – fill it less! If you don’t have enough flexibility – I can’t help ya, sorry!

Siphons work OK, but they never get the last drops and if perchance the item being filled suddenly reaches overflow there could be spillage due to liquid in siphon tube (no matter which end you extract first). And this method is slow!

SOOOO... be it with old school metal 5 gal cans or new BS govt regulated containers... take off the top completely and pour out of can’s opening into a funnel. You can accomplish the task quickly while keeping close track (by sound and sight) to know if item being filled is reaching toward overflow (if so, you can instantly stop pouring - with no spill)... you also will empty nearly every last drop of fuel out of the 5 gal mobile container (as you should before refilling).

Happy ‘5 Gal Can” Boating! - Art
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Old 04-15-2014, 07:55 AM   #23
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To each his/her own, but I find it tiresome to hold a five gallon fuel jug in the air while holding the "trigger" open. What's really a shame is when government regulations force consumers to pay more for inferior products.
Mine have a small lip on the spout so once pressure (weight) is applied the spout stays open.
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Old 04-17-2014, 02:31 PM   #24
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I have had two older plastic jugs split along the molding line from the vapour pressure while sitting in the direct sun. A lucky recipient got the fuel but not without some mess. I now have a light grey cover to protect the gas jug and it does the job. There will be a light bulge but the jug no longer looks like a red balloon.

I won't keep it in the boat so it lives on the swim grid.

I don't refill the outboard tank directly from the 5 gal jug, but rather fill a 2 gal. jug into which I mix the oil. Much easier and with a strong flashlight aimed at the jug side I can usually get a good idea how full the 2 g. jug is getting. Sometimes the jug can be arranged so the sun does the job.
That 2g jug of mixed fuel also is extra if we are going for a long dinghy ride.

I try now to not really carry the weight of the 5g jug due to back problems so a few ideas from here will be tried.

I agree though that the design of the new jugs I have and have seen is the pits. So now there is minimum vapour loss but they make it more difficult to avoid spills.

I will make an adapter, which I have done before, to accept a flex. hose that actually bends to make things easier.

I stopped using metal cans due to rusting problems so I guess the plastic is better, to me at least, even with its problems.
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Old 04-18-2014, 08:23 AM   #25
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I'm thinking that maybe I am doing this wrong. It appears that when I re-read the info that the venting will work IF the spout is left on. I have been storing with the spout inverted and inside the jug in the same position as when I bought it new.
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Old 04-18-2014, 09:20 AM   #26
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People, the purpose of the vent on portable fuel tanks is to let air into the tank so the fuel can flow out freely. The tanks are designed to expand and collapse with the increase and decrease in internal pressure from the fuel heating and cooling.

The vent is not there to let out gas vapors when the fuel gets hot and in fact this is why the EPA mandated the removal of the manually operated vent; to reduce the amount of fuel vapors released into the atmosphere.

I am not in any way in favor of the new required design but it's important to get the facts straight when discussing this.
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Old 04-18-2014, 09:40 AM   #27
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I'm thinking that maybe I am doing this wrong. It appears that when I re-read the info that the venting will work IF the spout is left on. I have been storing with the spout inverted and inside the jug in the same position as when I bought it new.
First problem is the govt designed BS pour ends on 5 gal or less plastic fuel jugs. It is their "new-legal" spout (that leaks all over) and its BS cap with an already notched, ready to leak knockout hole in its center (so you can't just toss the pour spout and simply use the cap to seal the jug). Even the flimsy rubber seal for all this apparatus is a POS! Those “tax payer dollar” design idiots thought of every way to F up a portable fuel can! LOL

In addition to metal 5 gal cans with spring return gasket-seal-cap close spouts (that allow pressure release)... I also have two of govt's poorly designed pour spout plastic fuel jugs.

I take the govt spouts and lay em aside on a shelf (probably eventually to be thrown away!). Then, I take the cap and with fuel accepting adhesive I full-contact adhere a fairly thick (1/16 to 3/32) round cut piece of plastic over top of cap without ever having knocked out the cap’s hole. I go to NAPA auto and find correct size thick o.d. "O" ring for the cap’s inside... and... bingo, I have a sealed plastic gas can that I can pour out of into any hole or a funnel if desired.

Only problem with this is there is no vent for pressure release, such as the spring loaded seal cap allows on the metal 5 gal cans. I don’t fill any 5 gal can with more than 4.5 gals and only use the plastics for quick transport and soon to be completely emptied. Also, I do not carry 5 gal fuel jugs aboard boat while cruising.

Happy Fuel Jug Daze - Art
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Old 04-18-2014, 10:01 AM   #28
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People, the purpose of the vent on portable fuel tanks is to let air into the tank so the fuel can flow out freely. The tanks are designed to expand and collapse with the increase and decrease in internal pressure from the fuel heating and cooling.

The vent is not there to let out gas vapors when the fuel gets hot and in fact this is why the EPA mandated the removal of the manually operated vent; to reduce the amount of fuel vapors released into the atmosphere.

I am not in any way in favor of the new required design but it's important to get the facts straight when discussing this.
There is no real need for separate vent during pouring... sure, it works nice to have one and open it while emptying portable tank, but it is not really needed. Any decent sized round pour opening can serve as both pour spout and vent by holding can at correct angle during pour and in accordance to the level of fuel remaining in tank. There is a pressure release area (valve so to say) that should be working on tanks (such as spring loaded pour seals on metal cans) for extreme sun conditions. For caution sake... I simply will not put more than 4.5 gals in a 5 gal tank and do not leave tanks in direct sunlight - full or empty! Safety Is As Safety Does...
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Old 04-18-2014, 10:26 AM   #29
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There is no real need for separate vent during pouring... sure, it works nice to have one and open it while emptying portable tank, but it is not really needed. .............
If you pour directly from the container.

If you pour through a spout or hose it will gurgle and splash or just stop.
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Old 04-18-2014, 11:01 AM   #30
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If you pour directly from the container.

If you pour through a spout or hose it will gurgle and splash or just stop.

That is why I do not use hose attached to can. I pour directly from container's short neck opening and use funnel when necessary. Allows complete "flow control", air vent at (in) spout, "fill sound" of tank being poured into (so no sudden overflow)... and... no spill from portable can!
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