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01-14-2020, 06:45 PM
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#1
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Veteran Member
City: Olympia, WA
Vessel Name: Buster
Vessel Model: North Sea Cape Classic 30
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 48
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Corrosion around thru hulls
The bottom of my trawler was painted with Interlux Micron CSC antifouling paint in June 2019. The prior bottom paint was also Interlux Micron CSC paint. The cuprous oxide content of the paint is 37%.
The attached photos taken on January 7, 2020 and show some corrosion around 2 of the thru hull fittings. No corrosion was noted when the bottom was inspected in September 2019.
A galvanic isolator is installed in the boat and the boat is slipped in a marina. The thru hull fittings are all bonded together with a green wire.
I have the following questions/comments:
1. Am I correct to assume that the corrosion shown in the photos is related to electrolytic corrosion and not galvanic corrosion?
2. If the corrosion is the result of electrolytic corrosion, am I correct to assume that removing the entire bonding green wires should solve this issue?
Thanks
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01-14-2020, 08:00 PM
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#2
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Guru
City: Palm Coast, FL
Vessel Name: Coquina
Vessel Model: Lagoon 380
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 2,570
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Ouch; they look pink, with loss of zinc. Replace and isolate, I tend to think. How are props?
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01-14-2020, 09:28 PM
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#3
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Guru
City: Pender Harbour, BC
Vessel Name: Gwaii Haanas
Vessel Model: Custom Aluminum 52
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,791
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Those through-hulls are toast, methinks. What does the “green wire” attach to? Do you have a transom zinc? It sounds like you need to go all through that system and check connections. Remember that stainless steel is the WORST metal for conductivity and you will need to check all connections very carefully. The galvanic isolator is an excellent device but it needs careful installation. Like was said earlier, what do your wheel(s) look like?
__________________
Don't believe everything that you think.
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01-14-2020, 09:48 PM
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#4
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Guru
City: Bellingham WA
Vessel Name: Hatt Trick
Vessel Model: 45' Hatteras Convertible
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,973
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Assuming you have a transom zinc, with a meter check to see if you have continuity between the zinc and your pink through-hulls. I suspect you don't, meaning you're not bonded and your zinc isn't protecting your underwater metal.
__________________
Ken on Hatt Trick
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01-14-2020, 10:00 PM
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#5
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Guru
City: Gibsons, B.C., Canada
Vessel Name: Island Pride
Vessel Model: Palmer 32'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,414
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I am going to suggest that you seriously consider getting an experienced in corrosion problems marine electrician to check your boat.
You need to find out why those through hull have done that. It may be the wiring is disconnected from the zincs, It could be your boat has electrical leakage into the water and is using the through hulls to get back to ground, it could be there is a problem in the marina wiring.
I have seen the bloom of the bottom paint before but usually it is the result of overzincing which raises the voltage too high and burns off the paint immediate to the through hull. But that usually will not destroy the through hulls.
However, it looks to me, and others, like the through hulls have actually suffered and good marine bronze [I am assuming] should not do that unless there is a serious problem.
If that same thing is going on with the other water immersed metals you could have a serious problem.
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01-14-2020, 11:29 PM
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#6
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Guru
City: Boston
Vessel Name: Adelante
Vessel Model: IG 30
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,611
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I think photos of your shaft and transom zincs might help Dx galvanic issues. I would start with basic continuity checks. Then proceed to check for galvanic activity with silver reference cell.( http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/ele...r/B0269b_u.pdf
Stray current is a bit harder to measure. ( https://www.powerandmotoryacht.com/u...y-current-test)
Note that stray currents can come from neighboring boats.
I use Micron CF. Seems to last the season about the same as CFC. No copper so a lot less toxic.
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01-14-2020, 11:53 PM
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#7
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Moderator Emeritus
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 21,191
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I wish everyone would stop using zinc as a reference to anodes. All sacrificial anodes are not zinc. It adds confusion to the conversation. When someone says zinc I always wonder if they are in fresh, brackish or salt water. A member posted here the other day that his zincs had not wasted at all over the years. His boat is in fresh water so I wonder if he is really using zincs or just using zincs as a catch all and he is really using the proper aluminum or magnesium anode. If people would use the proper term, anode, it or even better aluminum anode, magnesium anode or zinc anode it would remove any or all confusion.
__________________
Boat Nut:
If you are one there is no explanation necessary.
If you aren’t one, there is no explanation possible.
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01-15-2020, 01:21 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
City: Offshore
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 253
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Good job taking this seriously. Many boats have gone down due to through hull fittings giving way. Heard reports of through hull fittings looking ok visually, although actually compromised internal. What material are your through hull fittings made of. Marine bronze is the good stuff. Keep us posted on this one. May be as simple as the boats next to you running chargers and other.
__________________
Simplicity, is the ultimate sophistication.
Leonardo Da Vinci
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01-15-2020, 05:38 AM
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#9
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Guru
City: Narragansett Bay
Vessel Model: Grand Banks 36 Classic #715
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 1,857
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLETF
The bottom of my trawler was painted with Interlux Micron CSC antifouling paint in June 2019. The prior bottom paint was also Interlux Micron CSC paint. The cuprous oxide content of the paint is 37%.
The attached photos taken on January 7, 2020 and show some corrosion around 2 of the thru hull fittings. No corrosion was noted when the bottom was inspected in September 2019.
A galvanic isolator is installed in the boat and the boat is slipped in a marina. The thru hull fittings are all bonded together with a green wire.
I have the following questions/comments:
1. Am I correct to assume that the corrosion shown in the photos is related to electrolytic corrosion and not galvanic corrosion? What does your anode look like?
2. If the corrosion is the result of electrolytic corrosion, am I correct to assume that removing the entire bonding green wires should solve this issue?
Thanks
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Same marina as before the corrosion? Same boats in the neighborhood? Could be an external source. Just a thought.
What’s the anode look like?
__________________
Carl
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01-15-2020, 05:51 AM
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#10
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Guru
City: Aventura FL
Vessel Name: Kinja
Vessel Model: American Tug 34 #116 2008
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 10,595
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Get a qualified marine electrician to your boat to check your bonding system.
IF he finds a fault, correct it and take your boat to a yard to replace ALL your through hulls. IF he doesn't find a fault, get another more qualified marine electrician.
Something is going on and you need to identify it and correct it. The other alternative is to ignore it and get a BIG supply of wooden damage control plugs.
__________________
Two days out the hospital after a week in the hospital because of a significant heart attack.
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01-15-2020, 06:53 AM
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#11
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Guru
City: Brookline, NH
Vessel Name: Shalloway
Vessel Model: Defever 44, twin Perkins
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,260
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Same as everyone else has noted, it looks to me like excessive galvanic current has been going through those two fittings. Even good marine bronze can’t put up with that forever. You mention that all thru hulls are connected with a green wire, but it’s a horrible environment for wiring - the green anode wire must be checked by verifying LESS THAN 1 ohm of resistance between every bonded fitting AND all anodes and ground to the boat. I would also verify that your galvanic isolator is properly connected and functional.
Ken
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01-15-2020, 05:39 PM
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#12
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Veteran Member
City: Olympia, WA
Vessel Name: Buster
Vessel Model: North Sea Cape Classic 30
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 48
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reply
Quote:
Originally Posted by diver dave
Ouch; they look pink, with loss of zinc. Replace and isolate, I tend to think. How are props?
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diver dave: the props do not show any evidence of corrosion
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01-15-2020, 05:57 PM
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#13
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Veteran Member
City: Olympia, WA
Vessel Name: Buster
Vessel Model: North Sea Cape Classic 30
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 48
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reply
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xsbank
Those through-hulls are toast, methinks. What does the “green wire” attach to? Do you have a transom zinc? It sounds like you need to go all through that system and check connections. Remember that stainless steel is the WORST metal for conductivity and you will need to check all connections very carefully. The galvanic isolator is an excellent device but it needs careful installation. Like was said earlier, what do your wheel(s) look like?
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Xsbank: the green bonding wire is attached to all the thru hull fittings. The green bonding wire also connects to the following:
1. An aluminum anode mounted on the outside of the hull near the transom
2. A Dynaplate bronze ground plate mounted on the outside of the starboard hull
3. One engine motor mount
I do not understand the question about :"... what do your wheel(s) look like?"
Thanks
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01-15-2020, 06:02 PM
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#14
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Veteran Member
City: Olympia, WA
Vessel Name: Buster
Vessel Model: North Sea Cape Classic 30
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 48
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reply
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickair
Good job taking this seriously. Many boats have gone down due to through hull fittings giving way. Heard reports of through hull fittings looking ok visually, although actually compromised internal. What material are your through hull fittings made of. Marine bronze is the good stuff. Keep us posted on this one. May be as simple as the boats next to you running chargers and other.
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Nickair: I assume the thru hull fittings are made of silicon bronze but do not have an invoice to confirm that opinion.
Thanks
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01-15-2020, 06:08 PM
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#15
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Veteran Member
City: Olympia, WA
Vessel Name: Buster
Vessel Model: North Sea Cape Classic 30
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 48
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reply
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cigatoo
Same marina as before the corrosion? Same boats in the neighborhood? Could be an external source. Just a thought.
What’s the anode look like?
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Cigatoo: yes; same marina with same boats in the neighborhood. The aluminum prop shaft anode lasted 9 months and the aluminum transom anode was installed 12 months ago and is not ready to be changed.
Thanks
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01-15-2020, 06:12 PM
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#16
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Veteran Member
City: Olympia, WA
Vessel Name: Buster
Vessel Model: North Sea Cape Classic 30
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 48
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reply
Quote:
Originally Posted by OldDan1943
Get a qualified marine electrician to your boat to check your bonding system.
IF he finds a fault, correct it and take your boat to a yard to replace ALL your through hulls. IF he doesn't find a fault, get another more qualified marine electrician.
Something is going on and you need to identify it and correct it. The other alternative is to ignore it and get a BIG supply of wooden damage control plugs.
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OldDan1943: I do have a supply of wooden damage control plugs but do not plan to ignore the issue. I have contacted a local marine electrician.
Thanks
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01-15-2020, 07:48 PM
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#17
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Guru
City: Palm Coast, FL
Vessel Name: Coquina
Vessel Model: Lagoon 380
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 2,570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLETF
Nickair: I assume the thru hull fittings are made of silicon bronze but do not have an invoice to confirm that opinion.
Thanks
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Bronze fasteners are usually 95% Cu balance silicon. Typical thru hulls closer to half Cu and around 30% Zn. (From memory) when the Zn leaches out, u will see the remaining pink Cu, ending up grainy and weak.
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01-15-2020, 08:26 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 340
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My feeling is that if a piece of under water metal will NEVER connect to another piece of underwater metal then do not bond. By bonding an electrically isolated piece of under water metal you have introduced the possibility of both galvanic or electrolytic corrosion by intentionally bonding it to other underwater metals or power sources that may have leakage issues.
In a case such as a rudder I would protect with an anode directly or by bonding. The rudder could be connected to other metals through hydraulic lines, cables and such. In the case of a through hull fitting I would not bond. The likelihood of it connecting to other under water metals is minimal.
So I would isolate your through hulls from the bonding system but you should still investigate the cause of the corrosion. This is because everything connected to that bonding system may be subject to the same corrosion issue.
I know that many say bond, bond, bond but I disagree.
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01-15-2020, 08:40 PM
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#19
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Guru
City: Brookline, NH
Vessel Name: Shalloway
Vessel Model: Defever 44, twin Perkins
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLETF
the aluminum transom anode was installed 12 months ago and is not ready to be changed.
Thanks
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This is not a good sign all by itself.
And just because bonding wires go to certain components, their connections can go bad over time. As I said before, all connections must be verified to be under 1 ohm.
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01-16-2020, 05:39 AM
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#20
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Guru
City: Queensland
Vessel Model: Milkraft 60 converted timber prawn trawler
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 5,482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldDan1943
Get a qualified marine electrician to your boat to check your bonding system.
IF he finds a fault, correct it and take your boat to a yard to replace ALL your through hulls. IF he doesn't find a fault, get another more qualified marine electrician.
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There's qualified marine electricians then there is those who actually know what they are doing.
Electrickery is a very black art.
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