Fender line size?

[sdowney717]

I was watching some fender tie videos, that all seem to use larger lines, maybe 1/2".
I have had a very large fender tied on using 1/4 " nylon double braid for years. that rope has survived me forgetting to pull in the fender while getting stretched and squeezed between boat and wood pilings.
I have some short pieces of 9/16 nylon 3 strand I am thinking of setting aside for this task.

I see lots of videos on tying to the rail, but none on tieing line to fender, What knot do you use? I have five 10"? diameter fenders with end tie places, and one with a central hole.
And I have a very large red round ball type fender. It floated by the boat one day.

 

[kchace]

For fenders with "eyes", I splice an eye in the line and loop it through the fender eye. No knot needed. For fenders with the central hole, I use line large enough that a double knot tied it the end cannot ever pull through, though on my large fenders, this means 5/8" line.

Ken

 

[Bacchus]

sd...

A couple of choices come to mind...
Mine are all thru holes except a ball
I like larger dia (min 1/2" - 5/8) for the ease of handling a larger line - we also use adjusters on most of our fender locations and like the larger for that application

For the thru holes my first choice would be a figure 8 (which I use OK w/ mine)
If you need more bulk other stopper knots should work well

For the one end fenders - Bowline probably the simplest - but if you have 3 strand why not splice a small eye and loop the bitter end thru the fender and then the eye

I also like to put a figure 8 on the bitter end - better to grab if something slips and prevents running thru the adjuster where I have them

I do have one lacation right at the stern there I run a longer line thru the central hole (w a stopper knot to hold the right ht) and tie the bottom fwd to prevent it from "popping out" when locking / docking etc. If you find a need to do the same but only once-in-a-while again a small eye below a stopper knot on the center hole would allow you to add a second line when needed or use the double ended fender w/ a second line

hope that helps

 

[sdowney717]

I can do eye splices, but that seems like extra effort that I don't want to do?
How much length do you set aside for your fenders?

 

[markpierce]

Ours seem to be 3/8ths in diameter; comfortable to handle and fit in the fender eyes. Believe they are the standard West Marine offering.

 

[sdowney717]

That red fender looks like one of mine that I got as a freebie.
My other fenders sit in holders on the bow rail.
I only ever use one old dirty fender all the time to keep my boat aways from the boat next to mine at the stern.

So I was thinking why not make some fender lines just in case for the other 5 fenders. I have lots of old rope just got nothing to use it for.

 

[markpierce]

So I was thinking why not make some fender lines just in case for the other 5 fenders. I have lots of old rope just got nothing to use it for.

Yes, why not?

We usually deploy five on each side!



The orange ones near bow and stern are useful when approaching/leaving the dock at an angle.

If I was to ever dock Mediterranean style, I'd move the bow fenders and place them beside/under the raised swim platform.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Five is good Mark,
Re dia one should consider how strong a fender needs to be. I visualise tying on the outside of the customs float at Friday Hbr WA w big following wakes rolling in from larger yachts coming in w skippers w smaller brains. When the boat is tied to the port side and a big wake rolls the boat vilolently clockwise (port side rising) and wave bangs the boat against the float at the same time along w a worst case scenario of the float surface being rough concrete the fender and it's attach line is put to the test.

I use 3/8ths like Mark and a large fender fwd for innital landing contact. But not a large one aft due to the shape of the hull. If I were Mark I'd use two small fenders aft to make boarding easier.

They say if you can't fit the anchor on the bow it's big enough.
Well I'd say if you can't see your hull the fenders are big enough.
One passing thought is that probably the size of the fender line should be sized to the boat .... not the fender.

 

[Poach]

We use 5/16th double braided nylon on our Polyform Htm 3 fenders. I use a simple knot on the bottom which I lock-down by melting it a bit with a lighter. I put a simple knot at the top to prevent the line pulling free. I like the soft two double braided, because it has a bit of give to it, which puts less strain in the rails. We also use fender covers, which eliminates scratches on the hull. Everybody is a little different I suppose.

 

[ulysses]

If you think that an eye splice is "extra effort" that you don't want to do, I would suggest that you do one or two and then you will find that you can do them as quickly and with about the same amount of effort as a bowline. The other end as mentioned can terminate with a figure 8 or roll a back-splice (dog dick) in it in about 10 seconds more than a figure 8.

 

[rwidman]

I just buy "fender whips" at most any marine retailer. These are short sections of line with eye splices on one end. Anything less than 3/8" is hard on the hands, for most of us, anything larger than 1/2" is too big for the fenders and the cleats.


While it's true it's possible to make your own eye splices, it's usually just as cheap to buy them already done.

 

[High Wire]

We use 3/8" double braid on our 10" dia. fenders with the pre-made adjustable rail hangers. We keep one line about 6 ft and the other is 12 ft in case we have to hang them vertically. Have not found a good reason to change yet.

 

[eagle419]

FWIW I like plenty of fenders for my heavy boat, keeping their lines long for versatility and thick enough for my arthritic hands to grip easily.

They are attached to the fender with a bowline or splice, and to the rail with a clove hitch when solo or variations of round turn and two half hitches when crewed.

Two types - 'sausage' shape x 8 for use with fender boards, and ball shape x 4 for general use.

Plus one extra large ball for roving defence

 

[sdowney717]

I am fairly sure the rope is 9/16. My dock lines are 3/4 inch.
It fits easily through the fender eye.
Then I thought why not put a stopper knot on the rope end. I did and it works great.
No way the knot can escape the eye, and I can quickly unrope the fender.
I tried the half hitch, bowline type knots, and it just looked way to bulky. The half hitch, the rope is stiff and it just wants to come apart. But just tying a knot in the rope end, it is tight and I feel very confident the fender will not fall off the rope.

If I was using 3/8 line, I think a loop knot or a splice would be better, but with this thicker rope, no.

A loop splice would make the 9/16" rope so thick, I doubt would pass through the eye of the fender.
And I dont want to have a loop spliced permanently on the fender. It looks elegant, but not practical, I mean then your stuck with it on there all the time.

 

[GFC]

I use 5/8" line on all my large sausage and ball fenders. Mikey don't like no fenders coming loose in the locks and don't like being rocked against a dock by a passing wake.

 

[Nomad Willy]

John (Eagle 49),
That's a real classy touch having the shape of the bottom of the bumper metal on the top of the stem match the shape of the anchor fluke tip. Real classy!

 

[eagle419]

John (Eagle 49),
That's a real classy touch having the shape of the bottom of the bumper metal on the top of the stem match the shape of the anchor fluke tip. Real classy!

What can I say Eric, the previous owner loved stainless fabrication.

 

[ranger58sb]

We use "fender whips" with the tie-on-the-end type fenders.


With our feed-thru-the-middle fenders, I think we're using 15' ¼" pre-spliced double-braided dock lines (not perfectly sure of diameter, though). Figure-8 stopping knots to keep the fenders centered on the line. We can use the loop on one end, or not, depending on circumstance.


-Chris

 

[Drake]

We use 1/2" on all fender lines. We seem to move our fenders around a lot, which means lots of line handling. Anything smaller than 1/2" is uncomfortable on our hands.

 

[sdowney717]

Yes good point on size, My 9/16 fender lines are easy on the hands.
The knot I used is called overhand knot, simply for the reason, I never want the knot to come undone, as the fender would be lost,so in my case binding is good. And a fender can get pulled hard. The single overhand knot is so big, dont see how it could pull thru my fender.
Comment on the figure 8 knot, is it is easy to come apart, it may fall undone of itself. For a fender line, do you really want to risk it?

Figure 8 | How to tie the Figure 8 (Flemish) Knot | Basics Knots

This virtue is also, occasionally, a vice. The figure 8 can fall undone and then has to be retied.


Overhand Knot
Comparison: The Figure 8 should be compared to other common stopper knots. It is much better than the simple Overhand Knot which is smaller and can bind so tightly that it can be really difficult to undo. However, the Double Overhand Knot, the Stevedore, and the Ashley Stopper Knot, all make better Stopper knots because they are larger and more stable. For slippery ropes the EStar Stopper is the best.

This looks like a good stopper knot. Double overhand knot is bigger than single.
http://www.animatedknots.com/double...png&Website=www.animatedknots.com#ScrollPoint

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
We use the double overhand knot under fenders (5/8" lines). Unlike a single overhand which will eventually "fuse" to unity, a d-o-k can be undone (usually with a fair amount of difficulty but still un-doable). Above fenders, mostly 8'+ of straight line-no knots/loops.

As a related aside, I've yet to find, what I feel is, a suitable adjuster to use. We've tried....

Which are a real PIA to move...and

Which tend to self destruct under severe stress.

I'm not a big fan of tying to upper rails. Usually secured to stanchion bases or deck cleats.

 

[dhays]

I'm not a big fan of tying to upper rails. Usually secured to stanchion bases or deck cleats.

I feel the same way. I use the base of the stanchion. I am afraid of the amount of leverage from a rail.

I have used these on my sailboat for years. They are inexpensive (relative term) easy to use, and have held up very well. They are made by Cape Hatteras Marine. To put them on, you simply aim the end of the clip at the stanchion or rail and push. The ends are slightly angles away from each other so they spread out and then snap around the stanchion. To remove, you simply unweight the clip slightly, then twist it and it opens up to take off the rail. Very fast and easy. I have used these on my sailboats for 10 years. They are always on the boat in the weather. I have had only one fail on me in that time. We also used these to attach our Fender Step to the base of the stanchions at the gate. My wife and I are big people and they took the weight just fine.

 

[koliver]

"And I dont want to have a loop spliced permanently on the fender. It looks elegant, but not practical, I mean then your stuck with it on there all the time."

I disagree. Whenever you are going to use, or stow your fenders on deck, they need a line attached. An elegant looking attachment that will always be there is exactly what you need.

9/16 is a perfect size.

The "dog dick" (above), is also elegant and is the best way to end the line.
You can't do these otherwise easy splices if your double braid has previously been used for more than about a minute.

I do a quick clove hitch around a stanchion, at its base, hanging the fender so its bottom is just above the water. Easy to deploy, easy to retrieve, easy to hang from the cleats on the rear cabin top.

 

[ranger58sb]

As a related aside, I've yet to find, what I feel is, a suitable adjuster to use. We've tried....

I'm not a big fan of tying to upper rails. Usually secured to stanchion bases or deck cleats.

Cow hitch (lanyard hitch), if on a rail: Cow Hitch | How to tie the Cow Hitch using the End | Various Knots

Cheap. Looks decent. Easy to tie. Quick to adjust.

I usually tail it with a half hitch, though...

-Chris

 

[dhays]

Cow hitch (lanyard hitch), if on a rail: Cow Hitch | How to tie the Cow Hitch using the End | Various Knots

Cheap. Looks decent. Easy to tie. Quick to adjust.

I usually tail it with a half hitch, though...

With my new boat, that is what I have been doing as well. A Cow hitch backed by a half hitch. So far it has been very secure. I still am getting used to where the fenders need to be.

 

[sdowney717]

I tied 2 lines using an Ashley stopper knot. the knot is twice the size of an overhand knot.
So will use it for my other 2 fenders.

Ashley (Oysterman's) Stopper Knot | How to tie the Ashley Stopper Knot (Oysterman's) Stopper Knot | Boating Knots

I did find a large fender with a braided in loop, I forgot I had.
That fender is made of some real thick vinyl rubber, stiff with a hard surface and has no inflater and eye ring is metal. I have two of them.

How many fenders do you think a 37 foot boat needs? I have 4 on the bow rail, two of those super strong ones, one with a hole in the middle and the red ball, so 8 fenders. The bow fenders are the kind that get dirty and sticky and the surface melts gets brownish in the sun yet remain functional for decades type fenders.

 

[sdowney717]

Polymarine Flexithane Hypalon Paint
Flexithane urethane paint works on fenders I was told. So just linking it here.
Question is that cheaper to paint or buy new fenders.

Anyone ever paint their fenders? What did you use?

How about PlastiDip or is it too soft.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Plasti-D...urpose-Rubber-Coating-Spray-11207-6/203286992

Actually I would like to paint even just the top, would be an improvement in appearance.

People are Plastidip their interior vinyl. and it is made to be used outside, I will try it.
It does come in many colors.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/pors...768405-recovered-my-dashboard-plasti-dip.html

http://dipheadsunite.com/our-colors

 

[C lectric]

I have, several times, sprayed my fenders with automotive landau top spray paint.

Of course a white fender will not remain that way for long but it sure did smarten them up for a time.

 

[sdowney717]

I bleached 2 of my ugly fenders I had at the house.
I put paper towels on them and brushed on pure bleach, let them sit always helps a lot. It will take out all mildew fungus stains, even most deeply ingrained stains thay you might think would never come out. Mildew must get into the rubber.







These I then Plasti Dip painted white.
They look very nice, have a rubber grip texture.
At least they will look good on their tops. The tops get terrible appearance from the sun, sort of a melted yellow burn look. And the tops can get sticky.
I don't know how well the plasti dip will stay on, but it is not just rubbing off by my hand.

One on chair is Fend-Aire, and must be from the early 70's.
One can covered the one with hole in center, and half the other fender.
I have never bought any fenders, mostly I don't use them. But they get very dirty regardless.
Walmart had a can for $5.59
image hosting site no sign up

Plastidip I think would work great as a water barrier and crack sealer.

 

[sdowney717]

img

I cleaned and painted some fenders with white PlastiDip.
They look very nice, even if it helps the tops stay good looking , will be an improvement.
I was reading the sticky nastiness is due to plasticizers leaking out from the vinyl. It is soluble in oil, so some clean fenders with a light oil. I also used gasoline to dissolve the sticky crud and bleach and comet and dishsoap and nylon and SS scrunges and water all together at once. Gasoline is a very good cheap cleaner.

Plastidip sprays out a little lumpy, so keep cans warm helps that. The lumpiness does smooth out. PlastiDip also dissolves into the older layers, new coat really do melt into old coats. I also smoothed some imperfections with my finger.

One can covered 1.5 fenders.