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Old 07-11-2014, 05:55 AM   #61
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Troy,
If you look in the top picture, bottom centre, the flat plank that is about 250 mm wide running fore and aft is the dead wood. Starts at the fore foot and ends rebated in the bottom of the transom.
Those running athwart ships are frames and ribs.
Don't mean to be pedantic but that is the way I see it.
Cheers
Benn
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Old 07-21-2014, 05:53 AM   #62
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Gidday All
Thanks to Hendo and Benn for there input to the engine beds will touch on this later with photos have been down at the boat this last week chipping away at her, fitting new check plates and new bolts to the frame mitre shown in photos also made the fuel tank support template in readiness to be made out of stainless steel.
She is slowly taking up as we put water into her to swell her up again we are caulking as the planks gaps decrease but this colder and wet conditions are defiantly helping achieve this have also knocked out the bulk head not much holding that, so new ply ones will be installed one on both sides and insulation in between the two for a bit of noise reduction so still moving forward gave the old Gardner a kick in the guts the batteries where down a bit so lifted the decompression leavers only run her for a short while as no water connected, had previously ran her before filming
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Old 07-21-2014, 06:31 AM   #63
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Benn and Hendo how are you boys the first pic has the 5 deadwoods that I was talking about and where the engine goes this is where I want to build the engine mounts across the back two and next two deadwoods and up out to the sides where they will be through bolted across the ribs hope this helps explain the reason for wanting to do this as the engine sits quite low and the timber beams where 200x200mm with no access under the engine anyway hope you all enjoy the pictures will post again with more progress
Troy
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Old 07-21-2014, 08:07 AM   #64
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Troy,
They are called floors. The deadwood runs fore and aft.
Those floors are bolted thru the deadwood.
I assume the engine beds will be bolted on to the floors using Bronze or possibly s/s bolts with frogs (well sized bolt heads) on the outside of the planks. My frogs are approx. 150 x 75 mm, just as an example.
Personally I would still use timber beds and then use a steel plate on top for the engine mounts.
Cheers
Benn
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Old 07-21-2014, 06:36 PM   #65
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Hi Benn,
Yes you are right l was using the wrong terminology
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Old 07-26-2014, 09:25 PM   #66
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Hello Everyone
Well have been to the boat the later part of this week removed some planks that had patches in them to find a few surprises nothing bad, but more work to say the least. Have to lift the chine stringer up 10 mm and in 25 mm to put her back tight into the mitre's again, have some pictures but not of good quality, will go easy enough with a endless chain and a couple of slings then new check plates and through bolts to be made then she should be back to new again and also have to make a new frame for the lazerette bulk head area but not a real problem either more work but easier to do it now the late slowly getting rid of the little jobs one major job remains to do when we get to it is the king post which l think is the big piece of timbers behind the bow, it has some fresh water damage the will need some attention in the very near future but in the meanwhile we will concentrate on the caulking and the stern area as we head up and outwards we have about 20 short ribs to be installed in the lazerette. That will mean that we have re-ribbed over half the length of the boat. She will be like new again and can and will be enjoyed for many many years to come. Feel free to ask any questions l have nothing to hide unlike the previous owner.

Regards
Troy
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Old 07-27-2014, 01:31 PM   #67
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Do you have your rebuild posted on wooden boat forum?
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Old 07-27-2014, 05:53 PM   #68
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Hi Ben2go,
No this is the only site l am on. Why is that mate?
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Old 07-28-2014, 03:03 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy View Post
Hi Ben2go,
No this is the only site l am on. Why is that mate?
Troy
I was curious, as that's where most wood boat builds and rebuilds are.It's great that you're here.I'm enjoying your progress and learning more.
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:24 PM   #70
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hi to all,
Directed to all the Gardner Engine Boys/girls out there, Tracey Lea has a 6LXCT(turbo) model in her and was checking on what other people are using for there gardner engine oil or what l should be using in mine. currently using Castrol RX super 15w-40. Any information and reason for that particular oil will be greatly appreciated.
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Old 08-18-2014, 07:33 AM   #71
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hi the last owner used fuchs titan HD40 but the manual states sae 30 so will use HD30 next time 6lw
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Old 08-20-2014, 12:55 AM   #72
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Yep, I use Castrol SAE 30 as recommended by the Gardner people and the same in my gearbox and gen set.

Cheers
Benn
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Old 08-20-2014, 08:47 PM   #73
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I use 30 sae for my 6lxb as per the manual, and for the twin disc box and Kabota generators because it's simpler to keep the same oil.

Similar to Crashley, the previous owner swore by 40 sae, but he could never explain (in terms simple enough for me to understand) why I shouldn't go with manufacturer's specs.

Maybe it's a FNQ thing.
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Old 08-24-2014, 12:58 AM   #74
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eagle419,
Was looking through my new manual for the lxc models that was given to me by a friendly TF member.
And maybe the sae 40 is a FNQ thing for the temperature as its said for use above 32 deg.
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Old 08-24-2014, 01:09 AM   #75
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Tidahapah,
lm using the Castrol (15w 40). But was wondering what product name in the 30 SAE your using and would it be suited to turbo models read that some oils for NA models and other oils for turbo models or does it not mater with todays oils also want to use in Twin Disc 509 so only one oil on-board also, makes perfect sense to me.
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Old 08-24-2014, 01:12 AM   #76
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crashley ,
Thanks mate for your reply and heads up on the oil Q
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Old 08-24-2014, 03:01 AM   #77
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Troy,
I am using Castrol RX Mono 30.
Not sure on the Gardner turbo but would imagine it will be good.
Cheers
Benn
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Old 09-06-2014, 11:56 PM   #78
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its been a while since i last updated my post.
The last month or so have been concentrating on all the frames as the boat had spread apart side ways and the main chin stringer had also dropped because of poor bolts or no bolts at all mostly around the mitres where the cheek plate bolts have rusted away so have been busy making bolts and new bigger plates to go over the now pulled in tight mitres. I managed to pull in all the mitres back to original positions or as close as possible then remade bigger cheek plates and bolts to replace old ones pictures to follow. also discover a broken frame in between the engine room and lazzerete starboard side so have made and replaced and refastened also removed port side frame and reshaped to fit better and have also refastened l am going to replace all bulkheads withe 18 mm structural ply wood as the timber has become a bit soft and doey. Lippy returned and we managed to put in the two planks in the tuck and more caulking in seams puttyed up and painted. Tracey Lea has about 200 mm of water in her bilge going to work for the next three weeks so not much will happen but may get a couple of days hear and there as we don't wont her to start drying out again so enjoy the pictures and will get back to you when we progress further down the road.
Cheers
Troy
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Old 09-07-2014, 12:12 AM   #79
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Old 09-07-2014, 01:17 AM   #80
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Great work, sorry you keep finding things needing work. I call it "the strawberry punnet syndrome", the deeper you go the worse they get.
I only ever heard one older boatbuilder refer to "the tuck". I thought it meant transom, but was never sure.
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