|
|
12-21-2015, 06:55 PM
|
#41
|
Senior Member
City: Jamestown, Ca.
Vessel Name: Down East Yankee
Vessel Model: Defever 40 by Down East
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 122
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuttyhunk47
This is for steel and can be used on masonry, but unless I missed something, it didn't say it was recommended for fiberglass did it?
|
Cuttyhunk47: you're right, I didn't find anything in the Tech Sheet that said it was recommended for fiberglass. But the Product Application section on the sheet reads, "PREVIOUSLY COATED: Previously coated surfaces must be sound and in good condition. Smooth, hard, or glossy finishes should be scarified by sanding to create a surface profile. The High Performance Industrial Water Based Epoxy Finish is compatible with most coatings, but a test patch is suggested." Everything I planned to use this on is already a painted surface. It's all in good shape, but needs a thorough degreasing and sanded for tooth where I can reach. I am going to do a test patch near the engine and next to the bilge water line for a few months to see how it holds up.
Thanks.
Bob
|
|
|
12-21-2015, 08:33 PM
|
#42
|
Guru
City: Venice Louisiana
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 1,097
|
I've not had problems with good 2 part polyurethanes immersed in water full time. Never even thought about it being a problem. Its about the most waterproof of any paint, especially over an epoxy primer. Now I'm gonna have to worry about all that paint thats now underwater, dangit
|
|
|
12-21-2015, 08:50 PM
|
#43
|
Guru
City: Sarasota/Ft. Lauderdale
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 5,438
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M
Prep has nothing to do with it. It's the nature of 2 part polyurethane paints. They are not made for constant immersion in water. Boat hulls painted with a 2 part with water lines that are too low can have issues. Decks painted with a 2 part that have carpet, if the carpet doesn't dry out will blister.
An epoxy, gelcoat or a designed paint would be my first choice.
|
What can I say. I seen/had bilges painted with 2 part polys and not seen any lifting.
But if its a concern, just paint down to say 6" of where any standing water might be and then paint from there down with something else.
Preferably, IMO, with almost anything but gelcoat. :-)
|
|
|
12-21-2015, 09:31 PM
|
#44
|
Senior Member
City: Jamestown, Ca.
Vessel Name: Down East Yankee
Vessel Model: Defever 40 by Down East
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 122
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt.Bill11
But if its a concern, just paint down to say 6" of where any standing water might be and then paint from there down with something else.
|
That's how the inner hull on this boat was painted before assembly. It has a foot deep recess into the keel that is about 4" wide. So water, oil, wrenches drains/falls into this crevasse. It is good the builder only painted down to the trench and left the rest bare fiberglass. I won't be painting down there, even with epoxy.
|
|
|
12-21-2015, 09:38 PM
|
#45
|
Senior Member
City: North Port, FL
Vessel Name: Seven Tenths (sold)
Vessel Model: Mirage / Great Harbour 47
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 477
|
Larry,
We have Awlgrip. Our stern sits lower in the water then when the yard painted it. Our Awlgrip has blistered and flaked off at the waterline above the bottom paint.
|
|
|
12-22-2015, 05:47 AM
|
#46
|
Guru
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 22,553
|
As most proper laminates are fairly clear , there is thought that NO paint be used below the cabin sole so grounding or structural failure can easily be seen.
|
|
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Trawler Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:26 AM.