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Old 12-21-2015, 07:55 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Cuttyhunk47 View Post
This is for steel and can be used on masonry, but unless I missed something, it didn't say it was recommended for fiberglass did it?
Cuttyhunk47: you're right, I didn't find anything in the Tech Sheet that said it was recommended for fiberglass. But the Product Application section on the sheet reads, "PREVIOUSLY COATED: Previously coated surfaces must be sound and in good condition. Smooth, hard, or glossy finishes should be scarified by sanding to create a surface profile. The High Performance Industrial Water Based Epoxy Finish is compatible with most coatings, but a test patch is suggested." Everything I planned to use this on is already a painted surface. It's all in good shape, but needs a thorough degreasing and sanded for tooth where I can reach. I am going to do a test patch near the engine and next to the bilge water line for a few months to see how it holds up.

Thanks.

Bob
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:33 PM   #42
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I've not had problems with good 2 part polyurethanes immersed in water full time. Never even thought about it being a problem. Its about the most waterproof of any paint, especially over an epoxy primer. Now I'm gonna have to worry about all that paint thats now underwater, dangit
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:50 PM   #43
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Prep has nothing to do with it. It's the nature of 2 part polyurethane paints. They are not made for constant immersion in water. Boat hulls painted with a 2 part with water lines that are too low can have issues. Decks painted with a 2 part that have carpet, if the carpet doesn't dry out will blister.

An epoxy, gelcoat or a designed paint would be my first choice.

What can I say. I seen/had bilges painted with 2 part polys and not seen any lifting.

But if its a concern, just paint down to say 6" of where any standing water might be and then paint from there down with something else.

Preferably, IMO, with almost anything but gelcoat. :-)
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Old 12-21-2015, 10:31 PM   #44
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But if its a concern, just paint down to say 6" of where any standing water might be and then paint from there down with something else.
That's how the inner hull on this boat was painted before assembly. It has a foot deep recess into the keel that is about 4" wide. So water, oil, wrenches drains/falls into this crevasse. It is good the builder only painted down to the trench and left the rest bare fiberglass. I won't be painting down there, even with epoxy.
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Old 12-21-2015, 10:38 PM   #45
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Larry,
We have Awlgrip. Our stern sits lower in the water then when the yard painted it. Our Awlgrip has blistered and flaked off at the waterline above the bottom paint.
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Old 12-22-2015, 06:47 AM   #46
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As most proper laminates are fairly clear , there is thought that NO paint be used below the cabin sole so grounding or structural failure can easily be seen.
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