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Old 12-20-2015, 09:09 PM   #21
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Why spend an huge amount of money on special bilge paint? A good primer does it for pennies per foot from Home Cheap-O.
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Old 12-20-2015, 09:51 PM   #22
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The bilge in one of my boats was very dirty, oily and dark. I used Extreme Simple Green diluted 1:1 and then brushed it and rinsed times two. The Extreme Simple Green is awesome but somewhat hard to find. I then painted 2 coats of Interlux Bilge Coat in white. Love it. Cleans up easily and has a medium shine. Easy to see any leaks and do work since it is so bright.
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Old 12-20-2015, 10:00 PM   #23
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Plain old oil base paint works great and looks good...until it starts peeling off and clogs your bilge pumps. I prefer a good 2 part epoxy. I especially liked the Ameron stuff but cant get it as cheaply as I used to. I have used the Rustoleum garage floor two part epoxy, water based, as a surface primer under 2 part poly urethane with good results. I much prefer the solvent based epoxies for engine rooms, it seems to adhere to less than clean surfaces better. One drawback is that its intended for a floor so it does tend to sag and run easily on less than level areas. Just add a little Cabosil to help with that. It also helps when brushing or rolling it on, it tends to lay out fairly good and brush marks lay out well. I like flat colors, high gloss tends to create to much glare. When I go to all the trouble of removing engines I dont scrimp on the bilge painting.
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Old 12-20-2015, 10:16 PM   #24
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Hi Tom. It's not just the bilge, I'm also repainting the engine room. My ER has a fiberglass liner that create a floor, then up the sides to covers the fuel tanks. The floor has several wood hatches to access the bilge area. Getting into all these tight areas and other hard to reach spots with a brush will be pretty tough. So with the engine out, I am going to mask everything I don't want painted. With an airless sprayer, narrow tip and lower pressure, I'll shoot the bilge I can reach from the ER and work my way out spraying the ER, floors and walls.

In retirement, I restore cars as a hobby and have a paint booth. Masking is tedious, but I'm use to it. I have never used this product and am hoping that someone out there has. If it does everything the tech sheet says, two gallons will cover it, be tough and look good. This is the one good opportunity to undo 35 years of neglect and ugly.

Cheers.

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Old 12-20-2015, 10:30 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Comodave View Post
The bilge in one of my boats was very dirty, oily and dark. I used Extreme Simple Green diluted 1:1 and then brushed it and rinsed times two. The Extreme Simple Green is awesome but somewhat hard to find. I then painted 2 coats of Interlux Bilge Coat in white. Love it. Cleans up easily and has a medium shine. Easy to see any leaks and do work since it is so bright.
I've not seen the Extreme Simple Green, but have degreasers that work pretty good to re-emulsify old hard grime. I also have a diesel fired pressure washer that will go to boat yard to get as much of the old oil and other nasty's out before paint.
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Old 12-20-2015, 11:38 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by kulas44 View Post
Plain old oil base paint works great and looks good...until it starts peeling off and clogs your bilge pumps. I prefer a good 2 part epoxy. I especially liked the Ameron stuff but cant get it as cheaply as I used to. I have used the Rustoleum garage floor two part epoxy, water based, as a surface primer under 2 part poly urethane with good results. I much prefer the solvent based epoxies for engine rooms, it seems to adhere to less than clean surfaces better. One drawback is that its intended for a floor so it does tend to sag and run easily on less than level areas. Just add a little Cabosil to help with that. It also helps when brushing or rolling it on, it tends to lay out fairly good and brush marks lay out well. I like flat colors, high gloss tends to create to much glare. When I go to all the trouble of removing engines I dont scrimp on the bilge painting.
I'm with you on not scrimping if it sticks. I have another boat with a fish hold that the PO painted and it's falling off. The dead fish don't mind and I just glad it's not under the engine cover plugging the bilge pump. I'm use to the cost of good car paint, so this epoxy paint is really pretty inexpensive if it works. It is probably akin to the water base garage floor paint you have used before, both are Polyamine epoxies but different VOC's.

Bob
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Old 12-21-2015, 01:04 AM   #27
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Hi All. I will be doing a re-power on my boat this Spring. We will be cutting a big chunk of the Salon floor out to swap the engines. After that, I will spend a good deal of time on ER cleaning, painting, sound proofing and upgrading before the new engine is dropped in. After reading this thread, I started to check out the different paints everyone was using for the bilge and ER. I didn't see that anyone had used the Rustoleum 5300 Water Based Epoxy System and thought I would throw that one out there.

This is a two part system, 1 gallon of base and a pint of activator, that is fairly low VOC and can be applied over a slightly damp surface (mine will be dry). They claim it will stick to nearly everything including ferrous and non-ferrous metals and can be force cured up to 225 degrees. I don't plan on getting the ER that hot, but I can get well above 100 to get it set. It can be thinned with water and cleanup is with water. Here's the Technical Data sheet:

http://www.rustoleum.com/tds/5300%20...52_2027990.pdf

Tell me what you think. Price isn't real bad. Gallon of paint and pint of activator is $75 on eBay/Zoro with free shipping.

Thanks.

Bob
Well it's worth a shot I guess.

But if I was going to all that trouble and wanted the best job with a tried and true product, the only paint I'd use is a brite white high gloss two part poly like Awlgrip.
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Old 12-21-2015, 06:31 AM   #28
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All fresh paint looks nice , but some may have extra features.

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Old 12-21-2015, 06:45 AM   #29
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Lightly sand, wipe down with acetone, and then 3 coats of gel coat. Not hard to do, durable and easy to clean.

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Old 12-21-2015, 08:42 AM   #30
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Test whatever you choose to make sure it does not lift and wrinkle the current coating.
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Old 12-21-2015, 09:42 AM   #31
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Another "vote" for Interlux Bilgecoat. I found it very durable.
I have also used gelcoat and prefer the bilgecoat paint.
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Old 12-21-2015, 10:01 AM   #32
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The problem with gelcoat is as it gets dirty and oily as it ages, even when you are trying to keep it clean, it will never clean up totally. And so it will start to look dirty with age.
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Old 12-21-2015, 12:35 PM   #33
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The problem with gelcoat is as it gets dirty and oily as it ages, even when you are trying to keep it clean, it will never clean up totally. And so it will start to look dirty with age.
If it gets that bad, lightly sand, acetone, and 2 more coats. One of the big pluses over paint is that it's easy to recoat. No issues with pealing and compatability problems as long as you prep correctly.

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Old 12-21-2015, 02:04 PM   #34
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Thanks all for the input. So many good options. For this boat, I think I need to consider the bilge and engine room as two separate areas. The bilge is separated from the engine room with a fiberglass liner. The bottom of the bilge is deeply recessed into the keel from the forward cabin to the aft cabin. There is nowhere in the boat where I can touch the bottom of the bilge. It is 2 or more feet from the bottom of the oil pan. The engine room liner is like any other fiberglass component popped from a mold; smooth and shiny.

Capt. Bill suggested using a tried and true product like a two part poly Awlgrip. I absolutely agree. I plan on using some leftover color matched Interlux Perfection on the ER liner floor and walls. After years of having tools and other stuff drug over it, it needs a good hard paint.

I was drawn to the Rustoleum 5300 for the bilge area because it is billed to be designed for moderate to extreme industrial environments, is low VOC water based with thinning and cleanup with water. No extra thinners or noxious solvents needed. And it can be applied with an airless paint sprayer. With the small spray head of my airless sprayer, I can get paint into all those impossible to reach places.

Early in this thread, joesubmariner had concerns about paints failing and peeling due to engine room heat and contaminants. This stuff claims 300 degree dry heat resistance.

So??? I was hoping someone had tried it and had some firsthand knowledge. Since the re-power is three to four months away, I'm going to try a test spot in an area subject to water, oil and heat, and see how it holds up.

Thanks to all!

Bob
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Old 12-21-2015, 02:07 PM   #35
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If it gets that bad, lightly sand, acetone, and 2 more coats. One of the big pluses over paint is that it's easy to recoat. No issues with pealing and compatability problems as long as you prep correctly.

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But once stuff is back in the engine space you can't get to all the areas that need to be recoated. Gelcoat is cheap and easy I guess. But nothing beats a nice smooth and clean two part poly coated engine space.

Super bright, easy to clean, very long lasting and almost nothing attacks the finish.
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Old 12-21-2015, 02:18 PM   #36
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...Gelcoat is cheap and easy I guess. But nothing beats a nice smooth and clean two part poly coated engine space.

Super bright, easy to clean, very long lasting and almost nothing attacks the finish.
A downside of using a 2 part polyurethane paint in the engine space is it has to stay dry with no standing water so it is not a good choice for bilge areas. The paint will blister and peel if in constant contact with water.
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Old 12-21-2015, 04:33 PM   #37
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Is this recommened for fiberglass?

This is for steel and can be used on masonry, but unless I missed something, it didn't say it was recommended for fiberglass did it?



Quote:
Originally Posted by remwines View Post
Hi All. I will be doing a re-power on my boat this Spring. We will be cutting a big chunk of the Salon floor out to swap the engines. After that, I will spend a good deal of time on ER cleaning, painting, sound proofing and upgrading before the new engine is dropped in. After reading this thread, I started to check out the different paints everyone was using for the bilge and ER. I didn't see that anyone had used the Rustoleum 5300 Water Based Epoxy System and thought I would throw that one out there.

This is a two part system, 1 gallon of base and a pint of activator, that is fairly low VOC and can be applied over a slightly damp surface (mine will be dry). They claim it will stick to nearly everything including ferrous and non-ferrous metals and can be force cured up to 225 degrees. I don't plan on getting the ER that hot, but I can get well above 100 to get it set. It can be thinned with water and cleanup is with water. Here's the Technical Data sheet:

http://www.rustoleum.com/tds/5300%20...52_2027990.pdf

Tell me what you think. Price isn't real bad. Gallon of paint and pint of activator is $75 on eBay/Zoro with free shipping.

Thanks.

Bob
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Old 12-21-2015, 04:57 PM   #38
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I just finished my engines with Rusoleum high temp, the bilge and decking with gray Rustoleum gloss oil based enamel. On a prior bilge, I used Interlux Bilgecoat and switched to Rusoleum mid job due to the cost. I liked the Rustoleum enough to use it again. I am also painting a 25' Chawk with Rustoleum Topside paint and Bottom paint. I am impressed and will not hesitate to recommend any Rusoleum marine products.

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Old 12-21-2015, 06:11 PM   #39
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A downside of using a 2 part polyurethane paint in the engine space is it has to stay dry with no standing water so it is not a good choice for bilge areas. The paint will blister and peel if in constant contact with water.
No it doesn't. If the surface is prepped correctly.
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Old 12-21-2015, 07:06 PM   #40
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A downside of using a 2 part polyurethane paint in the engine space is it has to stay dry with no standing water so it is not a good choice for bilge areas. The paint will blister and peel if in constant contact with water.
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No it doesn't. If the surface is prepped correctly.
Prep has nothing to do with it. It's the nature of 2 part polyurethane paints. They are not made for constant immersion in water. Boat hulls painted with a 2 part with water lines that are too low can have issues. Decks painted with a 2 part that have carpet, if the carpet doesn't dry out will blister.

An epoxy, gelcoat or a designed paint would be my first choice.
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