Engine Removal/Replacement

[koliver]

When I did it:

I bought an engine crane at an auto parts store ($250), installed it over the engine hatch, stripped the engines, then called a guy with a truck mounted HIAB crane. The boat was in an accessible position on the parking lot of the marina, so he could position his truck where he wanted it. He was so good with the HIAB that my small crane was unnecessary. The Stb engine (furthest from the door on the port side) came up with transmission still attached, by swinging forward as it was lifted, then blocking and lowering it to the cabin sole, removing the transmission, turning 90 degrees and lifting it through the doorway. Port engine, as it was closer to the door, didn't have so much swing room so the trans had to come off in the bilge. Otherwise same process. The doorway is 27" wide. Without Heat Exch, exhaust riser, alt, the old engines were able to slip through with 1/4" to spare. The new were tighter, as they have Aftercoolers, so a piece of cardboard against the varnish on both sides took the squeeze and no damage was done.
Find a guy that is good with a HIAB. Ask around at marine mechanics. Someone will know of one.

 

[Al]

On my prior boat with a Hercules D198ER four cylinder, we placed blocking at each side door with a railroad beam across, lift the engine, place the floor boards back, block the engine on the floor boards, and slide the engine out the door to the side deck and then off as you are able.
On our current boat, Ed Monk designed the boat with a full scope of open window area. In the 80's air condition on small boats was near non-existence so he designed a novel solution. He designed in to the roof a rectactular hatch that hinged up to allow air to flow in to the interior. The hatch is located directly over the engine.
Of course, with a Perkins 1-108 it can be picked up and out with four hands!

Al Johnson-Ketchikan
27 Marben

 

[FF]

The hatch is located directly over the engine.

Very common on commercial boats.

When lobster boats were more common with gas car engines , an engine swop was an overnight job.But most yards had a crane to work with.

A blown ebgine simply required a quick call to the junk yard for a donor. With keel cooling and dry stack, no marinization except swopping the electrics , and carb cover was done.

 

[Marin]

Older GBs--- the woodies and the first batches of fiberglass boats--- have a hatch of sorts in the flying bridge sole that can be removed for straight-through access to the engine(s). Using it requires removing the teak decking on the flying bridge, and in the case of the fiberglass boats I believe an overlapping layer of fiberglass has to be cut. Our boat has this "hatch" but it's probably easier in terms of prep and rework to remove and install an engine through the side window and re-install the window than to access and use the hatch. This feature was eliminated not long after the switch from wood to fiberglass.

 

[Larry M]

Older GBs--- the woodies and the first batches of fiberglass boats--- have a hatch of sorts in the flying bridge sole that can be removed for straight-through access to the engine(s). Using it requires removing the teak decking on the flying bridge, and in the case of the fiberglass boats I believe an overlapping layer of fiberglass has to be cut. Our boat has this "hatch" but it's probably easier in terms of prep and rework to remove and install an engine through the side window and re-install the window than to access and use the hatch. This feature was eliminated not long after the switch from wood to fiberglass.

With fiberglass, you always have this option but not for the faint of heart.


Grand Banks fuel tank removal - YouTube

 

[appdiver]

Thanks for all the great ideas...! Since my flybridge deck needs re-doing anyhow, I cut a hole in the roof to accommodate the engine with transmission and have a boom truck coming next week. Still a big mystery to me how MT-style trawlers get engines replaced without such complicated methods being employed. Rejoice if you never have to have yours pulled! Thanks again...

 

[alormaria]

Angelina had her engine and trans removed when the fuel tanks were replaced. They went into the saloon through the door. Engine and trans came out that way while they wrestled the fuel tanks out. The engine/trans sat on supports in the saloon while the tanks were fabricated. All wood interior was padded with foam backed cardboard. Excellent work from start to finish. Not fast but a quality job.

Didn't seem to be anything out of the ordinary to the boatyard.

 

[BruceK]

Just watched Larry M`s video of removing fuel tanks via the hull bottom. Soundtrack sounded like childbirth taking place.." push, push NOW...."
Is there a sequel putting the poor old Banks back together? BruceK

 

[Marin]

I'm not sure why anyone would opt to cut the hull of a GB to remove fuel tanks. The original tanks in our boat were replaced by the previous owner and they were cut up in place, the small pieces removed, and they were replaced with smaller "cube" tanks that fit down through the main cabin sole into place without needing to even move the engines. I suspect the transmissions had to be removed or at least disconnected and lowered into the bilge but this seems a far smarter choice the cutting open a hull and then patching it back up again.

This has been discussed at some length on the GB owners forum with opinions split as to whether or not cutting the hull open to remove tanks and patching it back up again compromises the integrity of the hull. However the most experience shipwrights and ex-yard owners on the forum all seem to agree that it puts the integrity of the hull at risk and so is not a good idea.

 

[motion30]

I'm not sure why anyone would opt to cut the hull of a GB to remove fuel tanks. The original tanks in our boat were replaced by the previous owner and they were cut up in place, the small pieces removed, and they were replaced with smaller "cube" tanks that fit down through the main cabin sole into place without needing to even move the engines. I suspect the transmissions had to be removed or at least disconnected and lowered into the bilge but this seems a far smarter choice the cutting open a hull and then patching it back up again.

This has been discussed at some length on the GB owners forum with opinions split as to whether or not cutting the hull open to remove tanks and patching it back up again compromises the integrity of the hull. However the most experience shipwrights and ex-yard owners on the forum all seem to agree that it puts the integrity of the hull at risk and so is not a good idea.

I would never cut the bottom of the boat, my question is...how did they reglass the inside of the patch when it is under the fuel tanks?

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Aside from the integrity issues, the owner has passed up the ultimate opportunity to redecorate (clean) his bilge and engine room area.

 

[RickB]

I'm not sure why anyone would opt to cut the hull of a GB to remove fuel tanks.

It had to have been one of those "it seemed like a good idea at the time things" because the work required to replace the plug properly and regain the structural strength of the original layup is very time consuming and tedious and expensive.

My questions to the glass contractor would be; how did you maintain temperature and humidity during the entire layup, show me the peel test samples, show me the layup schedule, verify the taper, verify the materials used. Considering the loads imposed on that part of the hull, it seems a very foolish way to remove the tanks.

I think that boat has lost most of its value because of that process.

 

[appdiver]

Follow-up for those that ever undertake engine removal themselves (as opposed to using professionals)...BE SURE to lift the engine completely off the motor mounts prior to the main lift up. My bolts were embedded in the stringers and prevented a gradual lift/shift/slide to allow the vertical lift by the boom truck out the hole in the roof. Removing the transmission first reduced the effort and made the whole process much easier. Cutting the hole aft of the permanent center wood roof brace however made the lift angle less than ideal. Be prepared to pull/push the engine forward out of the open hatch area and then swing the boom aft to come out the hole. Learned a lot and cost less than $500 for the boomtruck. Hopefully, the install will benefit from lessons learned during removal. Thanks again to all those that responded!