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Old 09-19-2014, 04:01 PM   #1
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Electro San Issues

I'm getting a "mix motor overload" warning ob my electro San.

I've called them twice and the last time they assured me that the directions for dealing with it using muriatic acid (hcl) were in the manual.

I'd thought I'd read the manual pretty well, but I assumed I missed something.

Got off the expensive phone call and discovered that in fact I had already downloaded everything there was and the only mention I found was during first installation.

So, before Monday, when I will call them again and...

I was wondering if anyone has such directions and if so, please e-mail them or a link to me.

Thanks
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Old 09-19-2014, 04:30 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wxx3 View Post
I'm getting a "mix motor overload" warning ob my electro San.

I've called them twice and the last time they assured me that the directions for dealing with it using muriatic acid (hcl) were in the manual.

I'd thought I'd read the manual pretty well, but I assumed I missed something.

Got off the expensive phone call and discovered that in fact I had already downloaded everything there was and the only mention I found was during first installation.

So, before Monday, when I will call them again and...

I was wondering if anyone has such directions and if so, please e-mail them or a link to me.

Thanks

Richard

Something isn't making sense to me...

If you had a low current alarm, I could see where muratic acid might be used to fix that.

Mix motor overload sounds to me like your unit is getting clogged up with possibly some non disolving TP or some really hard turds

Thats how I remember the alarms on mine, and thats what it says in the owners manual. Acid is only a fix for low current alarms it appears.
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Old 09-19-2014, 04:44 PM   #3
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I will get my manual from the boat and let you know in a few.
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Old 09-19-2014, 05:02 PM   #4
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I have my manual out. It states that for mix motor overld - mixer motor amps were high, check for foreign material in mixer chamber, seal leaks, motor shorts.
I guess the muratic acid could break something loose that is causing the blockage.
The Electrode cleaning - abreviated version
1. flush several times.
2> turn off water supply and flush till dry.
3 turn power off to unit.
4 disconnect white red and orange wires at control box.
5plastic bucket mix 1.5 pints muratic acid with 3 gallons water.
6 pour solution into toilet and flush till bowl is dry
7 pour 1 gallon of fresh water into bowl to dilute any acid remaining
8 allow to stand for a minimum of 45 minutes.
turnn water supply and flush only the toilet a minimum of 10 gallons of water to dilute and discharge muratic acid solution.
reconnect wires and turn power back on.

Keep in mind that the manual does not have this listed for a mix motor overld.
Good luck
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Old 09-19-2014, 05:03 PM   #5
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step 6 make sure you are flushing only toilet not running lectascan.
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Old 09-19-2014, 05:12 PM   #6
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I guess Raritan is hoping you can clean off anything that could be binding up near the top of the stirrer? I guess it's also possible that the tank where the stirrer is has had a gradual buildup that now it's interfering with stirring...but wow...that's a longshot.

I would try the muriatic cleaning and several more flushes without actually using the toilet...after that if you need to pull a hose and look in or take the top off it won't be bad at all.

I keep a connector and some hose to bypass the Electrscan if I must..hopefully yours is plumbed to be possibly out of the system also.
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Old 09-19-2014, 08:40 PM   #7
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Mixing motors

I think the mixing motors are prone to fail. I know of two besides my own that have failed over time with steady use. One of my friends has been buying his Electroscans at West Marine with the extended warranty. He takes them back and gets a new unit when they fail. In my case the mixing motors had corroded so bad they froze up. I noticed the motor overload warning for a couple of days before the motor froze. In my case I use salt water injection to provide the needed salt water to make the Electroscan work in fresh water. Perhaps the super salty solution causes the aluminum motor base to corrode and fail. The paint was gone and the motor base corroded so bad the bearing froze. Steve's looked good on the outside of the case but was corroded in the case. Fortunately they are easy to replace. I just bought the top of the tank with motors and 1hr later was up and running.
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Old 09-19-2014, 09:20 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksanders View Post
Richard

Something isn't making sense to me...

If you had a low current alarm, I could see where muratic acid might be used to fix that.

Mix motor overload sounds to me like your unit is getting clogged up with possibly some non disolving TP or some really hard turds

Thats how I remember the alarms on mine, and thats what it says in the owners manual. Acid is only a fix for low current alarms it appears.
I think the "low electrode" warning indicates a lack of salt issue. I have had freshwater flush heads and that warning has always been fixed by resetting and adding salt to the salt tank.
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Old 09-19-2014, 09:29 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogerh View Post
I have my manual out. It states that for mix motor overld - mixer motor amps were high, check for foreign material in mixer chamber, seal leaks, motor shorts.
I guess the muratic acid could break something loose that is causing the blockage.
The Electrode cleaning - abreviated version
1. flush several times.
2> turn off water supply and flush till dry.
3 turn power off to unit.
4 disconnect white red and orange wires at control box.
5plastic bucket mix 1.5 pints muratic acid with 3 gallons water.
6 pour solution into toilet and flush till bowl is dry
7 pour 1 gallon of fresh water into bowl to dilute any acid remaining
8 allow to stand for a minimum of 45 minutes.
turnn water supply and flush only the toilet a minimum of 10 gallons of water to dilute and discharge muratic acid solution.
reconnect wires and turn power back on.

Keep in mind that the manual does not have this listed for a mix motor overld.
Good luck
Thanks All,

This is what I needed. Don't understand why I couldn't find it on line myself.

Next challenge is that no one in this town knows muriatic acid. Hopefully in Waterford.
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Old 09-19-2014, 09:31 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scary View Post
I think the mixing motors are prone to fail. I know of two besides my own that have failed over time with steady use. One of my friends has been buying his Electroscans at West Marine with the extended warranty. He takes them back and gets a new unit when they fail. In my case the mixing motors had corroded so bad they froze up. I noticed the motor overload warning for a couple of days before the motor froze. In my case I use salt water injection to provide the needed salt water to make the Electroscan work in fresh water. Perhaps the super salty solution causes the aluminum motor base to corrode and fail. The paint was gone and the motor base corroded so bad the bearing froze. Steve's looked good on the outside of the case but was corroded in the case. Fortunately they are easy to replace. I just bought the top of the tank with motors and 1hr later was up and running.
These are the same symptoms of mine.

What do you mean just" the top of the tank"?
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Old 09-19-2014, 10:41 PM   #11
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Richard, muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid, HCl. If you need Raritan help, Mac McCoy in their Ft. lauderdale office is good. If I can help, just ask.
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Old 09-20-2014, 02:58 AM   #12
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Richard, muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid, HCl. If you need Raritan help, Mac McCoy in their Ft. lauderdale office is good. If I can help, just ask.
I know.

I'm of an age when they actually let us use real chemicals in chemistry class.

When they gave me that blank stare when I asked about muriatic acid, you should have seen the look when I said, hydrochloric acid!
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Old 09-20-2014, 08:56 AM   #13
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When Vic William worked for Raritan he told me the #1 cause of problems with these units was the through the circuit board rivets. They carry high current DC to the motors. He suggested soldering the rivets through the board, this fixed a large percentage of the units I worked on and was able to bring back to life.
I'm not saying this is the problem but the potential fix is worth trying.
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Old 09-20-2014, 10:24 AM   #14
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Richard, I'm guessing there are not a lot of swimming pool supply stores in Ireland.
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Old 09-20-2014, 12:54 PM   #15
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Electroscan

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Originally Posted by Wxx3 View Post
These are the same symptoms of mine.

What do you mean just" the top of the tank"?
On the Electroscan the mixing tank top is bolted to the case with 20 or so nuts and bolts and a black neoprene gasket. The replacement comes with top two motors and pvc fittings that need to be glued on the top. Mine didn't come with the salt water port for injection which I was able to install using pvc cement and a barbed pvc fitting. When I installed mine I had ordered it with the salt water tank and pump so I believe the Electroscan mixing tank came with the fitting for salt water injection. The low voltage warning, low amperage warning, and motor overload warning are all separate conditions and warnings. Low amperage can be caused by corroded platinum plates, not enough salt in the solution, or too much resistance in electrical connections from the power source. Low voltage is just that, not enough voltage because of low batteries or resistance in cabling or connections. Motor overload is caused by fowled blades or a damaged mixing motor. I believe you need over 14 amps to for the Electroscan to work. The acid would probably clean the plates and possibly help break up solid waste than has stopped the mixing motor. In any event if you can access your Electroscan unit it is not difficult to check.
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Old 09-20-2014, 01:13 PM   #16
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Picture of tank

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scary View Post
On the Electroscan the mixing tank top is bolted to the case with 20 or so nuts and bolts and a black neoprene gasket. The replacement comes with top two motors and pvc fittings that need to be glued on the top. Mine didn't come with the salt water port for injection which I was able to install using pvc cement and a barbed pvc fitting. When I installed mine I had ordered it with the salt water tank and pump so I believe the Electroscan mixing tank came with the fitting for salt water injection. The low voltage warning, low amperage warning, and motor overload warning are all separate conditions and warnings. Low amperage can be caused by corroded platinum plates, not enough salt in the solution, or too much resistance in electrical connections from the power source. Low voltage is just that, not enough voltage because of low batteries or resistance in cabling or connections. Motor overload is caused by fowled blades or a damaged mixing motor. I believe you need over 14 amps to for the Electroscan to work. The acid would probably clean the plates and possibly help break up solid waste than has stopped the mixing motor. In any event if you can access your Electroscan unit it is not difficult to check.
Here's my layout.
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Old 09-21-2014, 11:34 AM   #17
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Richard - Word of caution. I noted suggestion of running toilet/ElectroSan dry. Not knowing your toilet / ES set up... I do know that if I run my toilet intake or out-go pump dry there is chance that I could screw up impellers. Impellers and their containment surround like to have at lease some moisture for lubrication. Best, Luck!
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Old 09-21-2014, 11:37 AM   #18
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Thanks Scary,

I see a lot of corrosion at the base of the mixer motor. I'll try to do easiest thing first, which is to find HCl.

While my box is under the need like yours, the forward bilge is sealed up. So I'll have to disconnect and pull it towards the center of the boat to get it out.

I'll try to get this done in the next few days as I'll be back in the US next week, and if I need a new top, I'll get it then.

Any idea on price?
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Old 09-21-2014, 11:43 AM   #19
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Seems like it was under $500

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Thanks Scary,

I see a lot of corrosion at the base of the mixer motor. I'll try to do easiest thing first, which is to find HCl.

While my box is under the need like yours, the forward bilge is sealed up. So I'll have to disconnect and pull it towards the center of the boat to get it out.

I'll try to get this done in the next few days as I'll be back in the US next week, and if I need a new top, I'll get it then.

Any idea on price?
Not cheap, but I remember it as under $500.
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Old 09-21-2014, 12:26 PM   #20
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Thanks All,

This is what I needed. Don't understand why I couldn't find it on line myself.

Next challenge is that no one in this town knows muriatic acid. Hopefully in Waterford.
Try asking for it by it's other name, hydrochloric acid.
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