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Old 04-23-2017, 07:40 AM   #1
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ElectraScan Low Amps

Hi All:
With shore power or generator the unit has no issues. But at anchor, even after charging the batteries, the unit won't produce 14 amps.

I pulled the manual and the ES doesn't pull any near as much as current refrigeration. The batteries have no issue running 13 amp refrigerator and 13 amp freezer and even a microwave pulling 175 amps for a couple of minutes. When charged I have 675 Ah available in total.

Why is the ES bombing out? Thanks.

Jim
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Old 04-23-2017, 08:28 AM   #2
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When, if ever, was the last time you cleaned the electrode pack (which does NOT require opening it up...see owners manual for instructions)?

Sea water mineral up on the electrode pack "insulates" it, reducing the voltage. Because warm waters have a much higher mineral content than cooler waters, it may be necessary to clean it every few months.

If that's not the problem, I suggest you call Mac McCoy in Raritan's Ft. Lauderdale plant 954-525-0378 He's become my "go to" person at Raritan since Vic Willman retired.
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Old 04-23-2017, 09:34 AM   #3
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The ES was installed new Feb 1. The water even in the Bahamas has been relatively cool - 73 - 74F. That said, perhaps you're right and as full time cruisers we may have to clean it with Sew Clean (CH) every couple of months. Now that I know they're the same product (thanks to your last response) I will do the treatment next week for the smell when my wife and I can leave the boat overnight and perhaps that will fix the voltage issue. If not, I will certainly reach out to Mac.

Do you think it could be a wiring issue? Thanks. Jim
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Old 04-23-2017, 11:11 AM   #4
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ElectraScan issues

Jim,


While we look for 14 or better on our ES I did have to replace the electrode pac 2yrs ago. Since yours was new in Feb, I'm presuming of this year, that shouldn't be an issue.


My Raritan go to guy is Greg Morales, in NJ. You could call the main number and ask for him, use my name. I have found that they are the best in support. Almost anything Raritan, I'll put on my boat because of support.


Keep in mind that the 'magic number' is one that will 'purify' the discharge but with out that you are still discharging.


BTW, How much salt are you using per flush? We use a shot glass of salt with each flush. In the Chesapeake, that is usually enough, but try adding more salt than you are using and see if that boosts the amperage.
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Old 04-23-2017, 12:46 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by jfelds View Post
The ES was installed new Feb 1. The water even in the Bahamas has been relatively cool - 73 - 74F. That said, perhaps you're right and as full time cruisers we may have to clean it with Sew Clean (CH) every couple of months. Now that I know they're the same product (thanks to your last response) I will do the treatment next week for the smell when my wife and I can leave the boat overnight and perhaps that will fix the voltage issue. If not, I will certainly reach out to Mac. Do you think it could be a wiring issue? Thanks. Jim
If your discharge is smelly, it means the ES isn't treating the waste. That can be due to four possible causes: low salt (unlikely in your waters...what does your LED panel say about that?), dirty electrodes, wiring issue, or (least likely) defective electrode pack. If cleaning doesn't solve it, talk to Mac.

Raritan doesn't include the directions for using C.H. to clean the electrodes...owners manual (page 5) says "read the instructions on the C.H. bottle." However, their alternate instructions for using muriatic acid call for leaving it in the ES for a maximum of 45 minutes, so unless you can get your hands on a jug of C.H. to read those directions (I'd take a photo of 'em with your phone to keep for future use) or they're on the Sew Clean label (unlikely since the ES is proprietary to Raritan), methinks you'd better call Mac before you use Sew Clean to find out how long it can be left in the ES...'cuz I doubt if it should be anywhere near as long as overnight.
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Old 04-23-2017, 01:17 PM   #6
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I found the instructions!

Systems with Elecro-scan or Lectra/San:
Turn off the treatment device and flush the toilet 10 normal flushes to clear any residual chemicals.

Mix solution using a 1:5 mix (1 part Cleans-Hoses, 5 parts clean water).

Pour solution into toilet and flush until a mimimum of 3 gallons
has made it to the Lectra/San or Elecro-scan tank (that much will overflow out the discharge fitting).

Allow mixture to sit without activating the treatment system for at least 6 hours or a maximum of 24 hours. (Surprised it can be left in that log!)

Flush toilet with plenty of clean water, 10 gallons or more, then resume use of system. (see Electro-scan and Lectra/San manual for information on disabling the treatment system.)

To resume use:
The system needs salt when restarted, so you'll need to make a brine solution to flush down the toilet before first use.

In a separate container, combine five pounds (2.3 kg) of solar salt with two gallons (7.5 L) of warm water and allow to dissolve overnight.
Flush down the toilet (a 1/2 gallon will overflow).

Now you can turn the treatment device back on.
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Old 04-23-2017, 06:13 PM   #7
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I actually have a full bottle of CH on board. Never leave port without it!

My plumber gave me the same instructions but suggests first running fresh water through the system to clean the lines of any residue as opposed to seawater. Then the treatment, then fresh water again, then restart the system as normal with sea water. In SOFL I know we need to add salt whenever we're on the inside.

Speaking of salt, most of the ES users simply add raw salt into the system per flush as opposed to the tank systems. I have heard that as long as you use Non Iodized salt it is ok. That's what we used to do. Do you have a comment on this solution?

FYI, I tried to buy your book to my Kindle today but I'm in a lousy internet zone but will be getting it! Thanks.

Jim
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Old 04-23-2017, 08:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfelds View Post
Hi All:
With shore power or generator the unit has no issues. But at anchor, even after charging the batteries, the unit won't produce 14 amps.

I pulled the manual and the ES doesn't pull any near as much as current refrigeration. The batteries have no issue running 13 amp refrigerator and 13 amp freezer and even a microwave pulling 175 amps for a couple of minutes. When charged I have 675 Ah available in total.

Why is the ES bombing out? Thanks.

Jim
All great advice above, especially the detailed instructions from HM.

I would do one simple thing first, add a little, shot class as recommended, to a few flushes and see if that significantly changes amperage.
The whole sysrem is very dependent upon the salinity of the water to achieve higher currents.
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Old 04-23-2017, 09:05 PM   #9
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My plumber gave me the same instructions but suggests first running fresh water through the system to clean the lines of any residue as opposed to seawater. Then the treatment, then fresh water again, then restart the system as normal with sea water.

The ES cannot treat unless the salinity in the treatment tank is high enough for the electrodes to generate the hypochlorous acid. That's why it's necessary to put a bucket full of salt water into after you've rinsed it out with fresh water. If you don't want to make the brine solution, flush a bucket of clean sea water into it.

Speaking of salt, most of the ES users simply add raw salt into the system per flush as opposed to the tank systems. I have heard that as long as you use Non Iodized salt it is ok. That's what we used to do. Do you have a comment on this solution?

The salt tanks are easier to use, but I know a lot of people who choose to just add salt to each flush. If you choose to do that, put 2 coffee measures (4 tablespoons) of Kosher or solar salt (they dissolve faster than table salt) into the bowl before flushing.
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Old 04-23-2017, 09:20 PM   #10
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I would do one simple thing first, add a little, shot class as recommended, to a few flushes and see if that significantly changes amperage.

The real improvement in the ES over its LS predecessors is the bank of "itemized" LED readouts showing low salt, too much salt, low voltage, etc. that replaced the blinking lights. So unless Jim's systems has more problems than just "low voltage," he'd also have a "low salt' reading if that were his problem.

The ES owners manual is here ElectroScan owners manual Pages 4 and 13 are especially useful.
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