Educate Me on Anchor Chain

[Wayfarer]

Stainless chain is prettier and won't rust as quickly as galvanized chain. However, as mentioned above, the cost is at least five times higher for stainless than for galvanized.

Gotcha. I don't think it's worth the extra cost for me, being in fresh water. I certainly don't need the extra strength.

How big is Wayfarer's boat? He may only need 1/4" chain. I've come to the conclusion that 1/4"chain would be alright for my 30' 8ton boat w/o a FB. In Alaska I was thinking 5/16" chain was necessary but think now that 1/4" HT should be fine. Perhaps not even HT. Especially down here in benign weathered Washington State.

Wayfarer I isually use 3/8ths chain for the first 4' and then 10 or 12' of 1/4" chain. Then 400' of 5/8ths nylon Brait. I hand pulled for awhile but up graded to a small (noisy) capstan. Just made it easier to pull. I don't think I need more chain but most here disagree w me. Have you had anchoring performance issues w your 4' of chain and nylon rode?

I'm in a 29 footer, weighing in at around 5 tons. Relatively low freeboard, no flying bridge or big slab sided cabins or anything. My current setup is working fine, but the rode is pretty worn out and needs to be replaced. I figure while I'm at it, I'll upgrade. My windlass is set up for 1/4" BBB, and I'm perfectly happy with that. I was thinking of going with 50' of chain, then a good 250' of 1/2" nylon after that. I don't believe I've ever anchored in more than 20' of water, so my thinking is that the length of cable I'd be using most frequently would be all chain, hopefully giving me good lifespan.

 

[DCBD]

How big is Wayfarer's boat? He may only need 1/4" chain. I've come to the conclusion that 1/4"chain would be alright for my 30' 8ton boat w/o a FB. In Alaska I was thinking 5/16" chain was necessary but think now that 1/4" HT should be fine. Perhaps not even HT. Especially down here in benign weathered Washington State.

Wayfarer I isually use 3/8ths chain for the first 4' and then 10 or 12' of 1/4" chain. Then 400' of 5/8ths nylon Brait. I hand pulled for awhile but up graded to a small (noisy) capstan. Just made it easier to pull. I don't think I need more chain but most here disagree w me. Have you had anchoring performance issues w your 4' of chain and nylon rode?

I only have 1/4" HT chain on my boat. From what I was told it is as strong as 3/8" BBB. I anchor almost exclusively and have never had any reason to be concerned. My boat catches a lot of wind and I've sat out some pretty windy nights but never had a problem. I've randomly measured links but have not found any to be stretched or elongated.

 

[FF]

Before the purchase I would add all the chain weight and the anchor weight , add 200lbs and see if your windlass can take the load.

I would also install a deck chain stopper that can handle 2x the weight of the boat.

Hyd. is usually fine but electric is sometimes times overrated , so you do not want to be near the limit for daily use..

I would then get a Library copy of Skeene's and see if you have the room , mostly depth to create a chain Locker for that size and length of chain.

The box size and shape is what allows the chain to run free from the chain locker.

You may also need to upgrade the deck wash system as any mud left on stored chain will smell like low tide.

Just dumping it in a spot below decks will cause kinking and may require hand feeding to get the chain OUT .Each time the chain is used! Big PIA!

A simple pile of chain can fall over and the snarl starts.

Chain anchoring is a SYSTEM , just like using line , and all parts must function together to cruise uneventfully.

 

[Wayfarer]

I should add that my current arrangement works fine, but I've never anchored for more than an afternoon and never in any adverse weather conditions.

I'm not so sure I'd sleep soundly relying on it in a real blow.

I believe the term is 'lunch hook.'

 

[Nomad Willy]

The only problem I have is that my capstan drum is mostly flat. Only turns up at the very edge and the anchor line seems determined to run off the port side of the drum. I initially thought it was alignment and wondered why it was so critical .. or seemed to be. Been fighting this for a number of years.

I've had thoughts of finding a drum that fits or can be made to fit easily that has a "U" shaped drum w/o the flat part. Like "Powerwinch" capstans.

Never used anything but Brait 5/8ths line. Perhaps I should try some 3 strand and see if there's a difference. But I've got many other more important things to do so ....

 

[Wayfarer]

Before the purchase I would add all the chain weight and the anchor weight , add 200lbs and see if your windlass can take the load.

I would also install a deck chain stopper that can handle 2x the weight of the boat.

Hyd. is usually fine but electric is sometimes times overrated , so you do not want to be near the limit for daily use..

I would then get a Library copy of Skeene's and see if you have the room , mostly depth to create a chain Locker for that size and length of chain.

The box size and shape is what allows the chain to run free from the chain locker.

You may also need to upgrade the deck wash system as any mud left on stored chain will smell like low tide.

All good advice. I managed to find the user manual to my windlass yesterday. The internet sure is amazing isn't it?? According to the original specs, it'll take the weight of the chain and anchor easily.

I wouldn't have given a second thought to my chain locker. Thanks for posting that. I found the Skene formula on another forum, and I've got plenty of space, and the shape seems to be appropriate.

I don't have a deck washdown system. I'll have to keep a nostril on my chain locker, and giv'er a good splash from time to time if needed.

 

[Poach]

Just paid $3.22/ft for 250' of 5/16 BBB galvanized. We moor in fresh water and anchor in salt and fresh. I have had galvanized on all of my boats. It works well, and rusting can be reduced by fresh water washdown. I only once had a chain get that rusty and it was on a boat run exclusively in salt water and 15 years old.

 

[FF]

Cheapest deck wash setup is to use your inverter and a house shallow 1 1/2 well pump.



With some valves it can be a good bilge pump or fire hose supply.

 

[Wayfarer]

Even cheaper!

Oh 1993, you so crazy.

 

[ktdtx]

Did I read in this thread that there is no way to splice chain and have it work properly in a windlass?

If I have 200' and want to go to 300' there is no splicing? I just throw away the 200' and go buy 300' of new chain?

 

[Mule]

That is the word on my street. Sorry, but ya know, 200' feet is pretty respectable as a general rule. BTW, your El Pescadore is one hell of a boat. I am a Texan in FL. But I have been to the factory. Best design I have seen, and the quality was excellent. 300 ft of chain will help ya in West Bay or Big Pasture Bayou in East Bay.(humor) I seldom needed that much chain on my John boat in East or West Bay or on my Yak in Port Aransas. (More humor). Catch a few Reds for me. FL inshore fishing is tough. FL needs a high capacity hatchery.

Please post som pix of your boat for the Non Texans.

 

[ktdtx]

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/members/9961-albums346-picture2561t.jpg
http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/members/9961-albums346-picture2562t.jpg

 

[ktdtx]

 

[ktdtx]

 

[ktdtx]

I seem to have a little to learn about the efficient, accurate posting of photos.
Thanks for reply...it's a great fishing boat until you stick it on a reef or sandbar (I do that a lot) it runs is less water than it will float and when you stop you're screwed. ...heavy and a bear to get off.

 

[Peter B]

There are chain joining links one can get. Yes, it might end up the so-called weak link, but as the chain most folk use has a fairly wide performance margin, and you would only be putting out that much such as to bring the new chain and joiner into play very seldom, and usually good conditions, (because you would not choose to anchor in a very deep place unless the forecast was good, right?), so it may end up an academic issue only.

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=chain+joining+links&client=safari&rls=en&biw=1023&bih=591&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwiq9Kz698HJAhXkJ6YKHeyHDD8QsAQIJg

 

[FF]

I am still wondering how much coral infested waters this boat will be cruising in.

Chain is Required where rope would be cut.

I'm pretty lazy so keep the chain on board , should I suddenly wake up in Tahiti.

I have found nylon to be easier , stronger , far less weight , and does not require scrubbing before going below EACH TIME its recovered.

Nylon does not require a special built-shaped chain locker and is far faster to deploy in an emergency.

So why chain? for a non tropical cruiser?

 

[ktdtx]

Because it seems to be what everyone else uses in the PNW.
Sometimes that's a good reason.

 

[Ex Sailor]

Did I read in this thread that there is no way to splice chain and have it work properly in a windlass?

If I have 200' and want to go to 300' there is no splicing? I just throw away the 200' and go buy 300' of new chain?

I too have 200' of 3/8 G4 chain left over from my previous boat but would like to have 300' on board. If there is no reliable link, I'm thinking of just splicing a 100' of nylon rode to the end .... ? I don't even know how often this will go overboard .. ?

 

[hmason]

Has anyone tried "splicing" chain links with Amsteel (Dyneema)? Wonder if that would work? I think there's a good chance it would but I'm afraid to try it without some real data.

 

[hmason]

Then again, Amsteel might chafe through in that application.

 

[O C Diver]

I cut a link open, added the additional chain, closed the link, had it professionally welded, and then had all the chain regalvanized. Am happy with the results, but would likely not do it again. Should have just sold the chain I had and bought new.

Ted

 

[Mule]

More chain=more weight. I have a 28,000 lb boat, 5/16 chain, 66 feet, 300ft 5/8 8 plait nylon rode with a 44lb Rocna. In a fast hard charging ebb and flow similiar to San Luis Pass. I put out 95 feet in 12-14 foot water, sand bottom and NO WORRIES.

Get a Rocna, use the 100 foot piece with 150+ feet of 8 plait. The 8 plait has low probability of tangling, it just piles up but a real nightmare to splice, (I wore out U-tube) but the best rode for stowage. Your Rocna will be a small one for your boat.

 

[motion30]

Do yourself a favor, And Google new generation anchors. you can do much better than an old style plow

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Because it seems to be what everyone else uses in the PNW.
Sometimes that's a good reason.

There are good reasons we use an all chain rode in the PNW. Is it really necessary for FL or TX? Don't know.

I carry 550ft of all chain rode, heavy yes, but my boat design took that into consideration when she was built.

 

[FF]

"There are good reasons we use an all chain rode in the PNW"

Such as?

 

[Larmex99]

I once had a 40' Pacific Trawler and I bought 600' of 1/4" chain thinking that it may save the boat some day. After getting a piece of rope tangled in the prop during a storm I had to put out the entire rode in order to stay off the rocks nearby. I dived to remove the rope and had a rude awakening when I tried to bring the anchor up. The windlass would only pull up around 5 feet before blowing the breaker. The total weight was over the windlass's limit and it was a real cluster trying to manually wind the chain in while keeping the boat off the rocks.

I wholeheartedly agree with those suggesting a combination of chain and rope.

 

[caltexflanc]

I once had a 40' Pacific Trawler and I bought 600' of 1/4" chain thinking that it may save the boat some day. After getting a piece of rope tangled in the prop during a storm I had to put out the entire rode in order to stay off the rocks nearby. I dived to remove the rope and had a rude awakening when I tried to bring the anchor up. The windlass would only pull up around 5 feet before blowing the breaker. The total weight was over the windlass's limit and it was a real cluster trying to manually wind the chain in while keeping the boat off the rocks.

I wholeheartedly agree with those suggesting a combination of chain and rope.

I must be missing something in your story. If you are moving the boat forward so that the chain is vertical, at any given moment the windlass is only lifting the weight of the rode between it an the bottom; length of chain should have nothing to do with it. Bad windlass? Or pulling the boat with the windlass rather than powering into position?

 

[Larmex99]

I must be missing something in your story. If you are moving the boat forward so that the chain is vertical, at any given moment the windlass is only lifting the weight of the rode between it an the bottom; length of chain should have nothing to do with it. Bad windlass? Or pulling the boat with the windlass rather than powering into position?

The chain was straight down with almost no hold on the bottom. So, roughly 650-675# of pull and a windlass that overheated pulling the load. After I got 150' on board it handled the load without a problem.

 

[caltexflanc]

The chain was straight down with almost no hold on the bottom. So, roughly 650-675# of pull and a windlass that overheated pulling the load. After I got 150' on board it handled the load without a problem.

Still doesn't make sense. How deep was the water?