Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 12-28-2014, 09:04 PM   #21
Guru
 
Mule's Avatar
 
City: Fort Pierce
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Florita Ann
Vessel Model: 1982 Present
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1,784
doesn't anybody know about short link chain to chain linking???
__________________
Advertisement

Mule is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2014, 10:48 PM   #22
Guru
 
SCOTTEDAVIS's Avatar
 
City: Vero Beach, FL.
Country: US
Vessel Name: FIREFLY
Vessel Model: Pilgrim 40
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 913
Quote:
Originally Posted by MurrayM View Post


Yes I did, often it needs a slight tug to help it into the gypsy. Perhaps my next attempt will be tighter.

It is a bit of a hassle to weave as well, but seems better then the standard single link loop bend.
__________________

SCOTTEDAVIS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2014, 11:24 PM   #23
Guru
 
Mule's Avatar
 
City: Fort Pierce
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Florita Ann
Vessel Model: 1982 Present
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 1,784
I called 1st Chain Supply and no, there is no approved master link to join 2 pieces of g40 to g40.. The 8 plait I can splice as well as 3 lay nylon, no problem.

The one issue not addressed is the rode to chain weave where the individual lay of the line after separation is weaved into the links of chain down about 3 feet into the chain. This splice is "may" run smoothly through the wildcat, if it does then this is a more reliable splice than a tight eye splice insofar the friction point is elimated

Might just have to do it to see. I have before with 3 lay twisted 5/8 nylon but I did not have a wildcat windlass but a capsan only.
Mule is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2015, 02:08 PM   #24
Guru
 
Wayfarer's Avatar
 
City: Oneida Lake, NY
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Radio Flyer
Vessel Model: Wilderness Systems Aspire 105
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 784
Bump... I currently have about 2' of chain, and an otherwise all nylon rode setup. My rode is pretty worn and needs replacing. I'm going to replace it with a length of chain, probably less than 50' and a new length of nylon.

My question is... does it matter whether I go with galvanized or stainless? I'm in fresh water exclusively, so I can't imagine it makes too much of a difference.
__________________
Dave
Just be nice to each other, dammit.
Wayfarer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2015, 02:36 PM   #25
Guru
 
Steve's Avatar
 
City: Thibodaux, Louisiana
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Gumbo
Vessel Model: 2003 Monk 36
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,605
Last I checked ss 5/15" was Bout $17. A foot
__________________
Steve W.
http://mvgumbo.blogspot.com/
Steve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2015, 02:40 PM   #26
Guru
 
Wayfarer's Avatar
 
City: Oneida Lake, NY
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Radio Flyer
Vessel Model: Wilderness Systems Aspire 105
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 784
I've seen a few ads for $22 a foot... What's the advantage? Is SS less prone to rust?
__________________
Dave
Just be nice to each other, dammit.
Wayfarer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2015, 07:26 PM   #27
Guru
 
TDunn's Avatar
 
City: Maine Coast
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Tortuga
Vessel Model: Nunes Brothers Raised Deck Cruiser
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 669
Stainless chain is prettier and won't rust as quickly as galvanized chain. However, as mentioned above, the cost is at least five times higher for stainless than for galvanized. Grade 316 stainless will be less prone to rust than grade 304 stainless, but 316 is not as strong as 304. Also, for a given size stainless chain is a bit stronger than BBB galvanized chain, but not as strong as G4 (high test) galvanized chain. Typical ratings for 5/16" chain are BBB - 1,900 lbs, Stainless - 2,400 lbs and G4 - 3,900 lbs.
TDunn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2015, 08:21 PM   #28
Guru
 
Nomad Willy's Avatar
 
City: Concrete Washington State
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 13,701
How big is Wayfarer's boat? He may only need 1/4" chain. I've come to the conclusion that 1/4"chain would be alright for my 30' 8ton boat w/o a FB. In Alaska I was thinking 5/16" chain was necessary but think now that 1/4" HT should be fine. Perhaps not even HT. Especially down here in benign weathered Washington State.

Wayfarer I isually use 3/8ths chain for the first 4' and then 10 or 12' of 1/4" chain. Then 400' of 5/8ths nylon Brait. I hand pulled for awhile but up graded to a small (noisy) capstan. Just made it easier to pull. I don't think I need more chain but most here disagree w me. Have you had anchoring performance issues w your 4' of chain and nylon rode?
__________________
Eric

North Western Washington State USA
Nomad Willy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2015, 09:02 PM   #29
Guru
 
TDunn's Avatar
 
City: Maine Coast
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Tortuga
Vessel Model: Nunes Brothers Raised Deck Cruiser
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 669
I have 1/4" HT on my 32', 5 ton boat. It is quite adequate for all the anchoring I do. Here in Maine most anchorages are quite shallow, so I get by with 125' of chain with 200'of nylon spliced on to the chain. I have never had any of the nylon out. I also have 1/4" HT chain on my 36' 8 ton sailboat and have never had a problem, but it has only been 19 years.

Caveat - If conditions look to be poor, I pick up a mooring rather than anchor.
TDunn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2015, 09:53 PM   #30
Guru
 
Nomad Willy's Avatar
 
City: Concrete Washington State
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 13,701
TDunn,
Thanks for the input.
Yea I thought if I ever go w chain 200' actually may do me.
Sure like the safety of a 400' rode though.
By keeping my capstan and adding a small winch w a gypsy .........
__________________
Eric

North Western Washington State USA
Nomad Willy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2015, 11:39 PM   #31
Guru
 
Wayfarer's Avatar
 
City: Oneida Lake, NY
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Radio Flyer
Vessel Model: Wilderness Systems Aspire 105
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 784
Quote:
Originally Posted by TDunn View Post
Stainless chain is prettier and won't rust as quickly as galvanized chain. However, as mentioned above, the cost is at least five times higher for stainless than for galvanized.
Gotcha. I don't think it's worth the extra cost for me, being in fresh water. I certainly don't need the extra strength.

Quote:
Originally Posted by manyboats View Post
How big is Wayfarer's boat? He may only need 1/4" chain. I've come to the conclusion that 1/4"chain would be alright for my 30' 8ton boat w/o a FB. In Alaska I was thinking 5/16" chain was necessary but think now that 1/4" HT should be fine. Perhaps not even HT. Especially down here in benign weathered Washington State.

Wayfarer I isually use 3/8ths chain for the first 4' and then 10 or 12' of 1/4" chain. Then 400' of 5/8ths nylon Brait. I hand pulled for awhile but up graded to a small (noisy) capstan. Just made it easier to pull. I don't think I need more chain but most here disagree w me. Have you had anchoring performance issues w your 4' of chain and nylon rode?
I'm in a 29 footer, weighing in at around 5 tons. Relatively low freeboard, no flying bridge or big slab sided cabins or anything. My current setup is working fine, but the rode is pretty worn out and needs to be replaced. I figure while I'm at it, I'll upgrade. My windlass is set up for 1/4" BBB, and I'm perfectly happy with that. I was thinking of going with 50' of chain, then a good 250' of 1/2" nylon after that. I don't believe I've ever anchored in more than 20' of water, so my thinking is that the length of cable I'd be using most frequently would be all chain, hopefully giving me good lifespan.
__________________
Dave
Just be nice to each other, dammit.
Wayfarer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2015, 04:16 AM   #32
Senior Member
 
DCBD's Avatar
 
City: Sidney BC
Country: Canada
Vessel Name: Our Island
Vessel Model: KK Manatee
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 202
Quote:
Originally Posted by manyboats View Post
How big is Wayfarer's boat? He may only need 1/4" chain. I've come to the conclusion that 1/4"chain would be alright for my 30' 8ton boat w/o a FB. In Alaska I was thinking 5/16" chain was necessary but think now that 1/4" HT should be fine. Perhaps not even HT. Especially down here in benign weathered Washington State.

Wayfarer I isually use 3/8ths chain for the first 4' and then 10 or 12' of 1/4" chain. Then 400' of 5/8ths nylon Brait. I hand pulled for awhile but up graded to a small (noisy) capstan. Just made it easier to pull. I don't think I need more chain but most here disagree w me. Have you had anchoring performance issues w your 4' of chain and nylon rode?
I only have 1/4" HT chain on my boat. From what I was told it is as strong as 3/8" BBB. I anchor almost exclusively and have never had any reason to be concerned. My boat catches a lot of wind and I've sat out some pretty windy nights but never had a problem. I've randomly measured links but have not found any to be stretched or elongated.
DCBD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2015, 06:48 AM   #33
FF
Guru
 
FF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,515
Before the purchase I would add all the chain weight and the anchor weight , add 200lbs and see if your windlass can take the load.

I would also install a deck chain stopper that can handle 2x the weight of the boat.

Hyd. is usually fine but electric is sometimes times overrated , so you do not want to be near the limit for daily use..

I would then get a Library copy of Skeene's and see if you have the room , mostly depth to create a chain Locker for that size and length of chain.

The box size and shape is what allows the chain to run free from the chain locker.

You may also need to upgrade the deck wash system as any mud left on stored chain will smell like low tide.

Just dumping it in a spot below decks will cause kinking and may require hand feeding to get the chain OUT .Each time the chain is used! Big PIA!

A simple pile of chain can fall over and the snarl starts.

Chain anchoring is a SYSTEM , just like using line , and all parts must function together to cruise uneventfully.
FF is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2015, 06:51 AM   #34
Guru
 
Wayfarer's Avatar
 
City: Oneida Lake, NY
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Radio Flyer
Vessel Model: Wilderness Systems Aspire 105
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 784
I should add that my current arrangement works fine, but I've never anchored for more than an afternoon and never in any adverse weather conditions.

I'm not so sure I'd sleep soundly relying on it in a real blow.

I believe the term is 'lunch hook.'
__________________
Dave
Just be nice to each other, dammit.
Wayfarer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2015, 10:41 AM   #35
Guru
 
Nomad Willy's Avatar
 
City: Concrete Washington State
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 13,701
The only problem I have is that my capstan drum is mostly flat. Only turns up at the very edge and the anchor line seems determined to run off the port side of the drum. I initially thought it was alignment and wondered why it was so critical .. or seemed to be. Been fighting this for a number of years.

I've had thoughts of finding a drum that fits or can be made to fit easily that has a "U" shaped drum w/o the flat part. Like "Powerwinch" capstans.

Never used anything but Brait 5/8ths line. Perhaps I should try some 3 strand and see if there's a difference. But I've got many other more important things to do so ....
Attached Images
 
__________________
Eric

North Western Washington State USA
Nomad Willy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2015, 12:41 PM   #36
Guru
 
Wayfarer's Avatar
 
City: Oneida Lake, NY
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Radio Flyer
Vessel Model: Wilderness Systems Aspire 105
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 784
Quote:
Originally Posted by FF View Post
Before the purchase I would add all the chain weight and the anchor weight , add 200lbs and see if your windlass can take the load.

I would also install a deck chain stopper that can handle 2x the weight of the boat.

Hyd. is usually fine but electric is sometimes times overrated , so you do not want to be near the limit for daily use..

I would then get a Library copy of Skeene's and see if you have the room , mostly depth to create a chain Locker for that size and length of chain.

The box size and shape is what allows the chain to run free from the chain locker.

You may also need to upgrade the deck wash system as any mud left on stored chain will smell like low tide.
All good advice. I managed to find the user manual to my windlass yesterday. The internet sure is amazing isn't it?? According to the original specs, it'll take the weight of the chain and anchor easily.

I wouldn't have given a second thought to my chain locker. Thanks for posting that. I found the Skene formula on another forum, and I've got plenty of space, and the shape seems to be appropriate.

I don't have a deck washdown system. I'll have to keep a nostril on my chain locker, and giv'er a good splash from time to time if needed.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	anchor.jpg
Views:	82
Size:	73.0 KB
ID:	40282   Click image for larger version

Name:	formula.jpg
Views:	74
Size:	61.3 KB
ID:	40283  
__________________
Dave
Just be nice to each other, dammit.
Wayfarer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-18-2015, 05:15 PM   #37
Senior Member
 
City: Seattle
Country: United States
Vessel Name: Poach
Vessel Model: Sabreline Trawler
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 219
Just paid $3.22/ft for 250' of 5/16 BBB galvanized. We moor in fresh water and anchor in salt and fresh. I have had galvanized on all of my boats. It works well, and rusting can be reduced by fresh water washdown. I only once had a chain get that rusty and it was on a boat run exclusively in salt water and 15 years old.
Poach is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2015, 09:32 AM   #38
FF
Guru
 
FF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,515
Cheapest deck wash setup is to use your inverter and a house shallow 1 1/2 well pump.



With some valves it can be a good bilge pump or fire hose supply.
FF is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2015, 03:12 PM   #39
Guru
 
Wayfarer's Avatar
 
City: Oneida Lake, NY
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Radio Flyer
Vessel Model: Wilderness Systems Aspire 105
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 784
Even cheaper!



Oh 1993, you so crazy.
__________________
Dave
Just be nice to each other, dammit.
Wayfarer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2015, 08:31 PM   #40
Senior Member
 
ktdtx's Avatar
 
City: Galveston, Texas
Country: U.S.A.
Vessel Name: Howdy
Vessel Model: 52' North Pacific
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 416
Did I read in this thread that there is no way to splice chain and have it work properly in a windlass?

If I have 200' and want to go to 300' there is no splicing? I just throw away the 200' and go buy 300' of new chain?
__________________

ktdtx is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:40 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012