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Old 06-05-2012, 09:48 PM   #21
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psneeld,

The inspection/cleaning is recommended to be conducted annually. In the PNW many boats of our type, including mine, don't operate in the winter, so a spring checkup is appropriate.

When I go out on my boat, its to head north into Canada or Alaska, and go to remote wilderness locations. That is not the time or place to find an overheating problem.

After a winter layup, I might not be able to remember the exact temps on the gauge from last summer, so I do preventive maintenance.

YMMV!
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:28 PM   #22
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We use our boat year round so are running the engines year round. Rarely more than three or four weeks between outings. And we pay really close attention to the engine instruments, all of which are marked for their proper temperature, pressure, and amp readings. So we can tell at a glance if sometime is off.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:43 PM   #23
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Cleaning heat exchanger's

Every season I pull the end caps of the exchanger, remove and zinc chunks, clean out any stuff that got by the strainer.. and rod out the tubes. I also seemed to get " growth " on the front end of the tubes. The best thing I have come up with is a brass brazing rod, just sand the hard edge off the ends. The brazing rods works really great.. and will flex and bend around stuff in the engine room. I used the last rod every season for nine years.. so you will get your money's worth. I have been suprised that the exchanger can be 60% + plugged and the engine temp only goes up a few degrees. It is a good feeling to know the exchanger is clear and not stuffed with crap.
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Old 06-06-2012, 07:21 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry H View Post
psneeld,

The inspection/cleaning is recommended to be conducted annually. In the PNW many boats of our type, including mine, don't operate in the winter, so a spring checkup is appropriate.

When I go out on my boat, its to head north into Canada or Alaska, and go to remote wilderness locations. That is not the time or place to find an overheating problem.

After a winter layup, I might not be able to remember the exact temps on the gauge from last summer, so I do preventive maintenance.

YMMV!
Funny not in my Lehman manual...only flush cooling every 1200 hrs. The heat exchanger is mentioned often...but in reference to the zincs...nothing on cooler dismantling and cleaning.

It was not mentioned in my Cast manual either...just the same...flush system every 1200 hours if memory serves me correct.

If you want to do it annually fine...great idea...but as I've said repeatedly, doing PM is great and more often isn't usually a problem except for people that think they need to do it but pay others to do it....then they are flushing money either down the toilet as some would say...or stimulating the economy as politicians would say...
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Old 07-06-2012, 02:09 PM   #25
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Exclamation Exchanger flushing

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Originally Posted by BelfastCruiser View Post
Hey there - Its actually a serious question. I have a 3208 natural Cat (210hp) and have never flushed the exchanger. Is there a consensus in the group as to if/how often this should be done. I've read somewhere that muriatic acid works well, but I've never used it - advice/safety tips. Thanks!
Hello. If you are running is salt water, take your ship into fresh water for a while. this will kill all growth, particularly barnacles. Otherwise; vice-versa. If you want to really clean it out don't pay loads of money on specialised compounds.
COCA COLA or similar achieves the same result. We have knocked out zebra mussells with cola. Hope this helps. regards, Peter.
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Old 07-07-2012, 01:39 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by hollywood8118 View Post
clean out any stuff that got by the strainer.. and rod out the tubes. I also seemed to get " growth " on the front end of the tubes. The best thing I have come up with is a brass brazing rod, just sand the hard edge off the ends. The brazing rods works really great.. and will flex and bend around stuff in the engine room.feeling to know the exchanger is clear and not stuffed with crap.
HOLLYWOOD
Rifle cleaning brushes work well for this too. Just select the calibre that matches your tubes.
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Old 07-09-2012, 05:52 PM   #27
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Check your risers too-if boat has them. I have the 3208NA in a 34 Californian. Knew the engines would get warm when we bought the boat. First thing we did was take the heat exchangers out--but they really didn't need cleaning. Looked at the risers-the little 1/4 inch raw water holes coming out of the riser to mix with the exhaust were plugged up. Drilled them out, or thought I did--but on first long trip burned thru the new 90 degree rubber elbow from the inboard riser. Bought new risers after taking one of them off and looking at the conditon. Full of crap and mech. suggested don't waste my time or money trying to get them boiled out. The new riser style has 2 inch long slots for water flow vice the 8 little 1/4 inch holes for water flow. Made all the difference in the world. It is alright to check your heat exchangers but don't ignore the risers, if your exhaust system is so equipped.
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Old 07-10-2012, 12:33 AM   #28
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All this Maintenance can be avoided by installing a Fresh Water Flush system on your boat. Quick and easy to do. Once you do it, you'll wonder why you waited.
Simply run a fresh water hose to the top of the sea strainer cap. I tapped and treaded a valve. Fresh water hose is connected and simply run the engines for a few minutes with fresh water on. No more zincs burning. No more crud building up in the raw water system.

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