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Old 06-08-2018, 10:12 AM   #1
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City: Powell River, BC
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Smile Cruising the BC Coast

My husband and I recently swapped our 1976 Catalina 30 out for a 1984 Mainship 34 in order to expand our cruising and adventures... and to keep me warm Our favourite adventures include Desolation Sound Marine Park (north of Powell River) which is virtually in our "backyard", and we are looking forward to exploring the Broughtons.

We will need to rebed all/most of the stainless stanchions this summer. Any tips would be appreciated- have researched this on this forum already and one product that stands out is BoatLife Life Caulk. Planning to steer clear of 5200. Wondering if there are any other 80's Mainship owners out there who have tackled this job?
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Old 06-08-2018, 10:31 AM   #2
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I believe this used to be Compass Marine. IMO a good source for do it yourself information.



https://marinehowto.com/bed-it-tape/
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Old 06-08-2018, 12:01 PM   #3
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Compass Marine really likes butyl tape for that application, but BoatLife caulk will also work fine.


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Old 06-08-2018, 12:08 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by ktdtx View Post
I believe this used to be Compass Marine. IMO a good source for do it yourself information.



https://marinehowto.com/bed-it-tape/

+1


BTW, welcome. We went from a Catalina to a powerboat as well. We love the whole idea of drinking a hot cup of coffee in the pilothouse and being nice and warm during the winter. Your backyard has completely captured our heart. Unfortunately, I don't think we will make it up to Desolation Sound this year.


Powell River was a great spot to stop on the way to and from.
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Old 06-08-2018, 06:17 PM   #5
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City: Powell River, BC
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Thanks everyone for the kind welcome and tips for our re-bedding project ahead. Happy boating to all!����
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Old 06-08-2018, 07:26 PM   #6
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My stanchions are bedded w SikaFlex.
No problems over 10 yrs.
When service time comes it shouldn’t be too much of a problem.
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Old 06-12-2018, 04:24 PM   #7
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Moved form 'WElcome Mat' to 'General Discussion'.

3m 4000 is UV resistant. I'm becoming a fan of Butyl tape as of late. You need warp a little strip around mounting hardware.
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Old 06-12-2018, 05:33 PM   #8
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What's wrong with the "best"? (3M 5200)
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Old 06-13-2018, 12:57 AM   #9
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What's wrong with the "best"? (3M 5200)


Nothing as long as you never, ever want to remove that stanchion without ripping out the deck it is mounted on.
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Old 06-13-2018, 04:36 AM   #10
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That's ridiculous, dhays! My son and I just removed nearly 100 deck fittings from his 28' Shearwater Yawl built in 1987. ALL of the fittings were bedded in 3M 5200, either by the builder, Edey & Duff, or by myself during the 18 years I owned the boat. Nearly all of the fittings still had sound bedding. They were removed in preparation for repainting.

Last time I checked, Boat Life Caulk was an Acrylic caulk material. 3M 5200 is a Polyurethane adhesive sealant, a much superior material.

The idea that 3M 5200 cannot be removed from a boat is a ridiculous bit of disinformation often appearing on forums such as this one around the internet.
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Old 06-14-2018, 12:58 AM   #11
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Iím happy to perpetuate the myth. I stopped using 5200 because it was more work at no advantage to me. The difference with 5200 is it is both a sealant and an adhesive, a strong one on clean surfaces. You donít need an adhesive at all when bedding as you have a mechanical system of holding the pieces together, just need a sealant. I have also removed pieces with 5200 and you certainly can get them apart with enough effort, and there are softeners out there that work in 20 minutes to an hour pretty reliably and I have used those too. But why? It takes more time with little benefit. Through hulls and the like donít generally come apart. I can rebed a thru hull or replace a seacock in 15 minutes start to finish with a good sealant, not so if I have to work it back and forth and then maybe sand a bit to get the 5200 clean off. Maybe only another ten minutes, but ten minutes with no benefit. Anyway, I stopped using it because I donít like wrestling with it.

3m 101 was my favorite sealant until they stopped making it. Cured under water. Stayed flexible for at least a decade or two. It was polysulfide and now lifecaulk is the one hold out that makes a good polysulfide based sealant. I liked 3m 101 better, but they are very similar. I find the lifecaulk messyer for reasons I canít explain, something in the consistency. I also have largely went to butyl tape for most bedding. Stays flexible, fast to use and no cleanup. The polyurethanes are rather awesome products today. They also stay flexible and you essentially choose your preferred amount of adhesive property, 5200 being the most tenacious. 3m went all eurethane because they can make any variant on the same line with minor tuning of the chemistry. Too expensive to make 101 for too little differentiation. Truly hard to go wrong with bedding products these days, almost everything stays flexible for at least a decade now. If you have an application wher the adhesive properties are useful or the mechanical means is subject to failure risk, then 5200 is your best choice. I see zero benefit to deck plates, most Stantonís, thru hulls, etc. Iíd I had a mitre joint with a hatch that has thin frame and lots of leverage Iíd use 5200 on that all day long. Same as a windlass that gets torqued around a lot, 5200. Everything else, no way. I want to encourage future me to not ignore a bedding risk. Past me spent too much time wrestling with 5200 after I went through my own 5200 for everything phase. The one thing I wanted 5200 to stick to was the bottom of an aluminum tank to some plastic spacers to ensure air flow. Was not permanent, but lasted long enough to sit things down. Some things even 5200 wonít stick to.
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