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Old 06-01-2018, 08:45 AM   #1
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Creating an oil change system

I have a topside vacuum pump which is manual, but always wanted something better, but did not want to pay the money.

So over the years I have collected bits and pieces and now I am doing it. Boat came with an old electric water pump, an FP0F360AC, which wore out and I repaired with nitrile impeller and shaft seal.

https://www.amazon.com/Flotec-FP0F36...ords=FP0F360AC

So since it can now pump oil, I plan to use it to pump engine oil out. I threaded the inlet and outlet to use NPT 3/8 pipe threads, and a Y and getting some 3/8 ball valves ($1.61 on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gold-tone-3...72.m2749.l2649 ).

Rubber 3/8 oil hose or marine fuel hose will run down to the oil drain plugs on both engines. Before I get into more money I will test the idea. Plan is to permanently mount the pump in the bilge and pump the oil into a 5 gallon bucket. The pump and Y will not be more than 1 foot above the oil level in the engine pan.

So waiting on parts.

Will that pump be able to prime itself and pull warm engine oil?

Here is what it looks like so far. I have the pump foot off soaking in vinegar for removing rust.

one pic shows pump, other shows the adapters which will screw into the oil pan.
My oil pan uses NPT pipe plugs.
If it works, I will drill the center hole bigger and add a 1/4 tee with 2 more valves, one to drain the gen, the other with a loose hose to drain anything else, maybe antifreeze or oil left in my filter bypass canister.
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Old 06-01-2018, 09:53 AM   #2
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Add a fitting for a temporary hose to change transmission oil.
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Old 06-01-2018, 10:45 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by bayview View Post
Add a fitting for a temporary hose to change transmission oil.
Yes, another worthwhile use.
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Old 06-01-2018, 06:17 PM   #4
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My Detroits were plumbed with manual pumps and a hose running from each oil pan to a pump on each engine. I changed the oil once with the manuals. It took a lot of strokes to pump out the 16 liters of oil in each engine.
I bought a Jabsco electric oil pump and some hydraulic quik-connect fittings. I removed the hoses from the manual pumps and screwed on a quik-connect to each hose. I added a quik-connect fitting to the new oil pump hose. My Jabsco came pre-mounted to a plastic pail lid. Now when I do an oil change, I just snap the pump hose to the engine hose, plug in the 12V pump and pump out the engine into a plastic pail. I then re-fill the 4 liter oil containers with used oil to be recycled.
Hydraulic fittings are fluid-tight both male and female, unlike air fittings that are only airtight on the female coupling.
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Old 06-01-2018, 08:41 PM   #5
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yes that will work. i use one at work for small oil changes(less than 5 gal). they are not the fastest but as long as the distance its pulling from isn't over about 10ft it should be fine. also you might want to add a ball valve at the oil pan. last thing you want is for a hose to fail with no valve.
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Old 06-01-2018, 09:06 PM   #6
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My oil change pump is connected to a manifold, and both engines and both gears have hose to that manifold. It works well. My engines take 20 litres, so i always keep one empty container on board to pump into. Then once the engines have new oil there is still a container left. No spills!
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Old 06-01-2018, 09:32 PM   #7
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1/4" hose seems small to me. My system uses 1/2". Can't tell from the photo; what size fittings are in your pump? You should stay with the same size all the way through. If the pump has 1/2" or 3/8" ports you may burn the pump out if you go smaller.
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Old 06-01-2018, 11:42 PM   #8
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I plumbed in my engine pan drains, each with a valve to a 1/2" main line with a gear pump. From there to a holding tank. The tank can be pumped out thru a deck fitting at a commercial fuel dock. But now I centrifuge my oil and send it back to the engines.
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Old 06-02-2018, 05:01 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnma View Post
1/4" hose seems small to me. My system uses 1/2". Can't tell from the photo; what size fittings are in your pump? You should stay with the same size all the way through. If the pump has 1/2" or 3/8" ports you may burn the pump out if you go smaller.
John
I am planning on 3/8 for the main engines, and 1/4 for the gen and the extra line. Its pumping oil so oil is a good lubricant, i dont think the pump will burn out the impeller. Inside the port on this pump narrows into a smallish rectangular opening.
One concern I had was lift, it is easier to lift fluid in a smaller diameter hose. And lots of oil pump systems use 1/4" small tubing dropped down the dipstick.

Pump has 3/8" NPT pipe attached, I threaded them in. Or the pump can use a garden hose.

A good idea to put a valve also on the engine, but one engine is a very tough reach. I am going to have to contort my body to get it installed. Its not really different than on the transmission which has oil cooler lines which if they fail would drain out the oil and never seen it yet and those are under high pressures.
Also I don't know how durable those Ebay valves are or how resistant to hot oil, I would not want them to start leaking in a spot hard to deal with. I will put one on the gen drain as it is a long run back to the pump, so that is a good test. I think I have some 5/16 copper line I can use to run a line to the gen, with some short sections of hose at each end.

Each main engine holds 7 qts, the gen holds 4 qts.
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Old 06-02-2018, 05:15 AM   #10
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If you have a water pump which uses this very common sized impeller and want to use it to pump oil, then you need a nitrile impeller as most will ship with a neoprene impeller.

So here is the link, and you get 2 impellers and shaft seal.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This weekend, I plan to test the pump and see if it can pump engine oil, and how much lift etc.... The oil will just be room temp not hot, and will try 3/8 hose.

I do have another possible pump, it is a Holley Red marine fuel pump that uses 3/8 ports. Which on another forum someone uses to pump waste oil. My guess is that pump would have less suction. If 3/8 does not work, I can test 1/2 inch hose.
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Old 06-02-2018, 07:10 AM   #11
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I have encountered more than a few marinas that will take used oil, but only in capped 1 gallon containers. They no longer handle bulk oil.

Something to consider if you change oil on the road, and presently pump into only a 5 gallon container.

No big deal but I dont use my bulk container anymore, it goes straight into jugs.
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Old 06-02-2018, 08:02 AM   #12
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I would love an oil change system, but replacing the drain plug with a valve or. T scares the crap outta me. Anyway, are you going to refill oil back thru the drain plug or put another fitting in as a filler?

And a question about the manifold pic above. Do your engines and trans take the same oil spec? Is there a tank of oil stored onboard or do you drop a hose into a bucket of whatever oil you need, set the manifold and push Start? I assume the pump is reversible?
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Old 06-02-2018, 08:38 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom.B View Post
I would love an oil change system, but replacing the drain plug with a valve or. “T” scares the crap outta me. Anyway, are you going to refill oil back thru the drain plug or put another fitting in as a filler?

And a question about the manifold pic above. Do your engines and trans take the same oil spec? Is there a tank of oil stored onboard or do you drop a hose into a bucket of whatever oil you need, set the manifold and push Start? I assume the pump is reversible?
It is just to be used for draining. Interesting idea about being used for filling too. The pump is not reversible, to make it so just overcomplicates things. If I could figure that out, I might want to try it. If the motor could run backwards, a gear oil pump could reverse also a rubber impeller pump. A diaphragm or centrifugal pump cant.

Does seem possible, the residual oil left in the system should be so small as to not make a difference.
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...-motor-146198/

Your transmission oil hose is under heat and lots of pressure, and in a constant oil bath, and it is very reliable and tough hose. Connected to the engine drain plug, there is minimal to no pressure, maybe a little less heat too, such a hose should be fine. You could have a hydraulic hose made for you which is super tough hose, but is overkill. The other end is above the oil sump level, so even if the valve failed there, oil wont leak out.

I also at first a couple years ago, was kinda leary of this idea, but I changed my mind.
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Old 06-02-2018, 08:52 AM   #14
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"But now I centrifuge my oil and send it back to the engines"
Lepke, I understand getting the crud out of the oil, but how do you replace the additives that need to be in the oil?
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Old 06-02-2018, 08:56 AM   #15
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At 9 mins in, shows how to reverse rotation of a brushed motor. You just flip the two brush wires.
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Old 06-02-2018, 09:15 AM   #16
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My AT came with the Reverso oil changing system. It is a 'clean' installation and the valves are clearly marked.
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Old 06-02-2018, 12:46 PM   #17
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Quote:
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yes that will work. i use one at work for small oil changes(less than 5 gal). they are not the fastest but as long as the distance its pulling from isn't over about 10ft it should be fine. also you might want to add a ball valve at the oil pan. last thing you want is for a hose to fail with no valve.
Yes, I forgot to mention each engine already had a shut-off valve mounted at the front of the oil pan. The pull is only 3' from pan to pump so it is fairly quick. I ran the engines for 15 minutes to warm the oil up a bit. One lesson I learned was, don't take the new oil to the boat and leave it on deck overnight in near freezing temperatures. It was like pouring syrup into the motors! I'm seeing some very interesting and tidy installations on this thread!
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Old 06-02-2018, 01:50 PM   #18
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Pump works great with 1/2" hose. So I have to use that.
When using 3/8 hose, pump is very slow. I suppose the pump is starving because of the room temp oil is too thick.
Oil also looked like air churned.

Using 1/2 hose, oil looked more like oil.
I tested with Mobil 1 15w-50 oil and it is 80* outside.

I tested 3/8 hose with water and it blasted out the end.
Pump easily drew oil up a foot. I think even several feet would be fine.
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Old 06-02-2018, 06:42 PM   #19
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Found the right size hose, 12 feet gives me enough for both sides.
I plan to buy 4 1/2 inch full port ball valves that are made for oil.

Total cost is around $60 to make what I have function.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HE5G0S...527982386&sr=2

4 valves actually rated for oil.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-list...&condition=new
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Old 06-02-2018, 07:49 PM   #20
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I pump my old oil into 1gal jugs (the ones I buy it in) cap off and take to the dump and a recycle tank. Or at our marina into a tank of several hundred gallons (estimated) at the LaConner marina in Wa.

I can’t relate to all this trouble to save an hour’s work every month or so. My boat is small at 30’ and only has 5 qts of oil like a car. But I have a built in manual pump (that was part of my Yukon Engine installation) but most bigger boats are just having more oil.

But I can relate to engineering a system like this. The challange. The hours of contemplation and the final execution of installation is the stuff of an interesting life. As most of you know I like to make modifications to mechanical things.
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