Cork countertops

[ghost]

A few months ago I decided to replace my 1980 Formica with something a little more pleasing on the eyes. I found a company producing 1.25” high density cork, and decided to give it a go. Enlarged the sink, had to move all the plumbing to make it fit and then capped it with Myrtlewood, which is not always easy to get, and one tree rarely matches another, so always a little different.

Here are the counters, nearing ready to be finished. I’m going try try Waterlox for these, yet another new adventure. So far, this project has been about 5X what I had initially planned for in every way.

I’m also quite beyond my capability here, so I’m just happy it’s turning out as good as it has. Not perfect, but I am pleased.

 

[Aft Deck Capt]

It doesn't appear that your of your element one bit, looks nice! Really like the grain of the Myrtlewood.
Did the original counters have the raised lip around the perimeter? When I replace our old Formica I'm leaning towards eliminating the lip.

 

[BruceK]

Interesting choice. We have extensive cork tile flooring at home including the kitchen. It has lasted well, saved many a dropped plate or glass, and looks good. Will you need to seal it due to the porosity, of course our floor is sealed.

 

[OldDan1943]

It doesn't appear that your of your element one bit, looks nice! Really like the grain of the Myrtlewood.
Did the original counters have the raised lip around the perimeter? When I replace our old Formica I'm leaning towards eliminating the lip.

As annoying as the lip can be, it does contain spills.

 

[Lou_tribal]

Very nicely done, congrats!

L

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. g. I'm impressed! Looks very nice.


Mr. ADC. Another advantage of keeping the fiddles other than containing spills, as mentioned above it they also keep "stuff" from sliding off counters in less than calm weather. Yes, one should clear the counters and latch lockers for heavy weather but there's always that something you just put down for a minute...

 

[Star0210]

It looks really nice!

 

[ghost]

The fiddles would go on after the base finish. The prior ones were actually pretty low impact, just a halfish round thin strip glued along the edge. I use the laptop on the breakfast bar and dinette a lot, so strongly leaning to not replace them. The cork, even after being finished should retain a good bit of nonskid property.

One “screw up” I noticed. Behind my new sink, I’m actually a little under the overhang of my dishes area. I found I can’t get the router in there, it’s too tall. So I can’t cut the round over around the sink edge! I’m trying to find a trim router low profile enough to get in there. I’ve only got about 7 3/4 inches to work with.

I also don’t have enough room to mount the faucet along the back, so it’s likely go8ng to go on the left side. Not sure what I’m going with yet, but maybe something more upscale to set the whole thing off.

Next up, the old princess electric range is getting replaced with propane. They used to mount tanks under the flybridge, but there is really no way to do it there and meet ABYC. I’d be inclined to ignore that, but my reading of the rules tells me that they are spot on correct out of principle, not just politics. So....either I run about 45 feet of hose back to my sun deck, not all of it easily inspected, or next best location is actually inside the boat in a plumbed/sealed propane locker that vents out above the waterline. Emotionally, I never wanted a propane tank “inside”, but to meet ABYC, logically, that’s going to be the best spot. Cuts down my hose run to under 20 feet, bends and all.

How many of you have something similar? Functionally, it makes sense, but emotionally I just wanted it outside, but outside does not mean it is safe and not likely to just run back into the hull. Two sides of my brain are still fighting, even though I know objectively what is the right answer.

 

[koliver]

I really like the look of your Myrtle, if that is what is on the side of the upper counter. It looks a lot like my own western maple furniture, that came from a tree that came down to make room for my house, several years ago. I looked at a Myrtle website and the pictures of the variety of grains is quite similar to the maple. I wouldn't do a fiddle on the upper counter, but only the lower.
I can't tell from your photos that the counters are cork, they look so smooth and blemish free. Are you going to finish them with polyurethane? When I was looking at cork flooring, that was the common finish.

 

[Comodave]

Do you just have to route the back edge of the sink where it is straight or do you have to do the rounded corners also? If you only have to do the straight part you could tip the router over 90 degrees and route it horizontally. Of course it won’t work going around the radius corners but it will work on the straight.

 

[Comodave]

Or even route as much as possible with the router horizontal and then finish the corners by hand with a file.

 

[ghost]

My confidence in hand sanding the cork is not where I want it, so I’ll leave the sink corners square until I find a safe solution. It’s a cosmetic option, so no worries in leaving it for now, other than having to put a finish the rounded corners later.

Myrtle can look a lot like maple, though often just a shade more yellow. But you can get dark grain patterns you don’t get in maple. Here is a pic of my back door I did last year in Myrtle as well.

I plan on finishing the cork and Myrtle trim with waterlox, which is Tung oil based, kind of a thin short oil varnish type of product.

 

[Comodave]

Just practice on some scrap.

 

[ghost]

Internet consulted. Ridgid model 2401, shortest trim router at 6.5”. Gives me a whole 1.25 inches to spare, six in stock at home cheapo.

I’ve got too much time and money to risk screwing it up, a talent I can excel at in creative ways.

 

[Comodave]

It is always good to buy a new tool. My wife says I have never met a tool that I didn’t need. I think I have 6 routers...

 

[Marlinmike]

Nice work, would be interested in seeing the finished product (pics), also close up of the counter top itself. Thanks for sharing!

 

[ghost]

Here is my test piece. Three coats of original Waterlox, one coat of matte. This was raw, not finish sanded so the actual countertop will be a little smoother.

 

[ghost]

And my last two pieces of Myrtle. The one on the left will become the trim around my new Dickinson stove. The one on the right will go behind the sink, I’ll cut out slots for plates, bowls, glasses, etc. both have interesting grain. Behind them is my mostly finished dinette table waiting to be installed.

 

[ghost]

And my last two pieces of Myrtle. The one on the left will become the trim around my new Dickinson stove. The one on the right will go behind the sink, I’ll cut out slots for plates, bowls, glasses, etc. both have interesting grain. Behind them is my mostly finished dinette table waiting to be installed.View attachment 88854

And then it’s going to take a month to clean my small shop. Don’t think it’s ever gotten this bad. Looks like a bomb went off. LoL!

 

[Bkay]

Here is my test piece. Three coats of original Waterlox, one coat of matte. This was raw, not finish sanded so the actual countertop will be a little smoother.View attachment 88853

That looks nice! Good work.

 

[OldDan1943]

Might be time to straighten out the shop so you dont trip, fall and hurt yourself.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. g. Interesting grain patterns to be sure. Good idea to keep the fiddles (raised counter edges) IMO. A bit of a pain to do any work on but they DO help to minimize "stuff" sliding off in any seaway.

Re: Shop "bomb":

It's been said that a messy desk is a sign of an orderly mind. I used to think that just to rationalize the disaster my shop was in at any particular time. Long story short, I now put all tools and materials away after and sometimes during completion of tasks. Yup. Frustrating when I have to use any particular tool within minutes of stowing it BUT I know exactly where it is AND I have a neat and tidy work surface to proceed.
Only took me 65 years to develop this particular work habit.


NOT a criticism, just an observation...

 

[koliver]

Re: Shop "bomb":

It's been said that a messy desk is a sign of an orderly mind. I used to think that just to rationalize the disaster my shop was in at any particular time. Long story short, I now put all tools and materials away after and sometimes during completion of tasks. Yup. Frustrating when I have to use any particular tool within minutes of stowing it BUT I know exactly where it is AND I have a neat and tidy work surface to proceed.
Only took me 65 years to develop this particular work habit.


NOT a criticism, just an observation...

Drifted thread alert

I am with you RTF. Neither my desk, when I worked a regular job, nor my workshop could ever have been considered neat, though I always knew where everything was. After a few years of retirement, my desk is gone, so not a valid comparative, but my shop has cleaned up its act quite a bit. I have made rows of holders for small tools, stacks of shelving for bigger stuff, and I get waaaay less done.

 

[ghost]

3 more weekends to finish my winter projects. I’m really loving my cork counters so far. They really feel nice. I don’t know how, but you can feel the thickness of the 1.25”. Also, the Waterlox finish I would use again.

Also got my dinette table mounted, led lights up, power strip, new stove is now functional, wallpaper up and the cushions I made over the winter. New graphics went n the side this past weekend, only had to cut them out about 3 times before I got it right.

Gotta get goin, summer is gonna be here any day now..

 

[Bkay]

I'm sorry, but in that last photo, is your dog drinking a martini? That's just irresponsible, what if he needs to drive the boat??

Can I ask you about your dinette table? I assume you built that, and did a very nice job. What is the thickness, did you edge glue only or use biscuits, does it feel strong enough when you convert it to a berth, did you do anything special where it mounts to the pedestal to distribute the pressure?

I'm planning something similar but don't want to invest a lot of effort into it just to find that it's not really suitable for use as a berth. More photos of your table and the bottom would be appreciated!

Nice work on counters. I love Waterlox - I've used it on many desks and tables.

 

[ghost]

The table is 1 5/8 thick. It has two rows of dowels top and bottom along each of the 4 joints which at 50 dowels per joint made for 400 holes drilled. The joints are strong to say the least. The original plywood table when in sleeper mode sat on two lips on each edge of the benches and spanned the entire gap. This would rest on the two lips but also have the center support, so the span would only be from the edge to the middle. It would be Plenty strong.

My issue is the yew has the striking features of the checking in the wood. It’s beautiful and as long boards they were still strong. Across the grain, meeehhhhhhh. There are actually two inch thick by 1.5 supports that run under the table to give it support across the grain. I’m not sure I want to test it. Any other board no problem, but these, hmmm. In the last 12 years, I’ve never slept anyone on the dinette so I’ll. Probably not find out about the strength of that checking.