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Old 06-05-2012, 10:57 PM   #41
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Pictured is a typical automotive/agricultural u-joint. There are two types of retainers shown, the split ring with holes in the end tabs and the split ring without holes.

The bearing cups are removed from the ends of the cross, the cross inserted into the two yokes, and the bearing cups inserted/pressed into the yokes from the outside. Inside the bearing cups are needle roller bearings. After the cups are pressed far enough into the yokes, the split rings are inserted into grooves to hold the bearing cup in place. If a needle falls away from the cups outer wall, it can lodge in the bottom of the cup,preventing the cup from seating. If that happens, the split ring cannot seat in its groove. It is easy for the assembler to knock a needle loose and it cannot be seen. The needles are held in place during assembly by the grease that lubes the bearing.

While assembling these is a simple process, it must be done correctly or the snap ring is thrown out and the bearing cup follows.
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Old 06-06-2012, 03:48 AM   #42
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interesting we were just discussing this very same setup in another thread....I'm guessing the same setup that reduces vibration.
Talking to the mechanic, the set-up reduces the transmission of vibration so one doesn't/hardly notice a vibration issue/problem.
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Old 06-06-2012, 05:47 AM   #43
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Talking to the mechanic, the set-up reduces the transmission of vibration so one doesn't/hardly notice a vibration issue/problem.
Nah...I screwed up..I forgot the Aquadrive system uses CV joints as LarryH pointed out...though I'm sure the have their issues in the marine environment unless inspected regularly also.
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Old 06-08-2012, 05:28 PM   #44
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Here are some pictures. Three clips and bearing caps fell apart, and three more were working their way out. The shaft and the universal joints will be sent to a shaft shop for repair. One of the yokes on the rear universal is slightly bent, and the forward universal needs to be removed from the transmission for closer inspection.





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Old 06-08-2012, 06:41 PM   #45
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Holy Cow. Glad it came out "okay" (relatively) and your builder is stepping up and making things right.
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:01 PM   #46
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The builder is sending a replacement shaft assembly.
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:28 PM   #47
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Mark

I was under the impression old style multi piece and needing lubrication interval Universal Joints (very similar to the pictures...of which I’ve had many on trucks and cars of yester year) were pretty much replaced by sealed unit fully lubricated Constant Velocity Joints. Any chance your boat builder can supply you with improved drive line joint mechanisms? Just a thought!?!?
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:31 PM   #48
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Mark

Any chance your boat builder can supply you with improved drive line joint mechanisms? Just a thought!?!?
No. Upgrades are my responsibility.
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:47 PM   #49
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Was backing into my slip with curret and wind fighting me a few years ago with my Amberjack when i felt it was the right moment i did hard aft then shifting to forward shot the fuel to it again only to learn the shift cable had broken, so i slammed the dock with the swim platform at a pretty good speed , crunch and slam the floating docks were shaking and everyone staying on their boat for the week end was outside trying to see what happend, we all ducked below and turned off the lights for 20 mins then went sneaking out after pushing what was left of the the swim rack out from under the floating dock, It happens.
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:49 PM   #50
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On my Drag cars we had drive shaft loops that were nothing more that stainless steel hoops that were a inch or so from the shaft so in the event it became unleashed it keept it inside those. they were bolted and removeable for service.
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Old 07-05-2012, 06:31 PM   #51
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The replacement shaft has arrived in the USA, in New York City! Another week to get here (Martinez, CA)?
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Old 07-05-2012, 09:04 PM   #52
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Good Lord! That's a month since your crunch. You could have smelted the steel and built one in less time.
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Old 07-05-2012, 09:15 PM   #53
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Good Lord! That's a month since your crunch. You could have smelted the steel and built one in less time.
or just driven over to Kevin's Prop Shop and Driveline in Antioch with the old parts.
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Old 07-05-2012, 09:55 PM   #54
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or just driven over to Kevin's Prop Shop and Driveline in Antioch with the old parts.
That would be what they call "local knowledge". Lecuyer Welding in Nipawin could do it too but the freight might be prohibitive.
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Old 07-05-2012, 11:45 PM   #55
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Meanwhile, the Coot is my "cabin." Perla and I are meeting tomorrow for lunch on the Coot, and among the goodies is home-made peach ice cream (peaches grown in Perla's yard).

But thanks for the sympathy!
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Old 07-05-2012, 11:50 PM   #56
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or just driven over to Kevin's Prop Shop and Driveline in Antioch with the old parts.
That's a thought! Then I'll have a spare.
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Old 07-06-2012, 05:44 AM   #57
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Universal joints MUST be installed "in phase".

The yokes must be in a proper relationship to each other in order to survive.

Look at an auto site to see the proper relationship.

In addition the drive and driven parts must be parallel to each other .

Perhaps the normal install requirements were unknown or ignored , causing the early failure?

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Old 07-06-2012, 06:22 AM   #58
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In addition the drive and driven parts must be parallel to each other .

Perhaps the normal install requirements were unknown or ignored , causing the early failure?

FF
They don't have to be in parallel. If they have an angular misalignment the centerline of the shafts must intersect at the longitudinal center of the Cardan assembly.

You are probably correct in that no one knew, no one inspected, and no one really much cared.

I just looked at a Chinese built boat where the overhead lighting was installed by using a large diameter hole-saw to drill through the overhead paneling ... all the way to and through the deck beams above.

It is a real gamble buying a Chinese boat without having knowledgeable oversight at every stage, on site, with the power to enforce standards. The boat described was built under Class supervision but the damage was done when no one was looking. Even a Class surveyor will not remove light fixtures unless he or she suspects something is hidden by them. Caveat emptor.
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Old 07-06-2012, 07:53 AM   #59
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This post won't apply to this particular type of coupling, but might be helpfull anyway. If the coupling uses "aircraft locknuts", the kind with nylon inside, you should keep an eye on them. The transmission/shaft coupling on my other boat has these and I noticed they come loose eventually due to the engine vibration. It appears these are single or limited use items and should be changed out when they start vibrating loose. Because of this I have installed new ones and now include inspection of this area in my regular maintennance schedule.
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Old 07-06-2012, 11:51 AM   #60
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Good point, Avalon. To take it a step further, the best would be safety wired bolt and nut to physically restrict both components from rotating loose.

While this image is not an example of an aviation quality safety wire job, it illustrates the concept.



Here's how an aviation spec'd job looks. Notice the wrap density and no snag ends exposed.

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