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05-08-2019, 12:55 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
City: Va Beach
Vessel Name: SeaShell
Vessel Model: 1974 Marine Trader 34 Sedan
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 169
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Cap off a thru-hull?
I have a thru-hull with a 1.5" tapered cone seacock that is not being used. The seacock is broken so I need to take action and remove it. Is there an obvious reason that I am missing why I shouldn't just remove the seacock and cap the the thru-hull off with a bronze 1.5" pipe cap? I have read where others recommend putting a new seacock in then using a bronze plug on the seacock. What's the difference other than about $150 ? I also do not want to pull thr thru-hull and glass it over permantly. Thanks.
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05-08-2019, 01:53 PM
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#2
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Guru
City: Aventura FL
Vessel Name: Kinja
Vessel Model: American Tug 34 #116 2008
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 10,595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaBreeze
I have a thru-hull with a 1.5" tapered cone seacock that is not being used. The seacock is broken so I need to take action and remove it. Is there an obvious reason that I am missing why I shouldn't just remove the seacock and cap the the thru-hull off with a bronze 1.5" pipe cap? I have read where others recommend putting a new seacock in then using a bronze plug on the seacock. What's the difference other than about $150 ? I also do not want to pull thr thru-hull and glass it over permantly. Thanks.
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Put a new valve on it in case you find a need scuttle the boat. WINK WINK
__________________
Two days out the hospital after a week in the hospital because of a significant heart attack.
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05-08-2019, 02:15 PM
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#3
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Moderator Emeritus
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 21,191
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I have done the cap thing before. I sealed the threads with 5200 so it won’t ever come off. Also if you have a bonding system don’t forget to bond the through hull.
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05-08-2019, 03:12 PM
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#4
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Guru
City: Palm Coast, FL
Vessel Name: Coquina
Vessel Model: Lagoon 380
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 2,570
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Its the seacock that locks the thru hull in place, correct?
You might need a big bronze nut to secure the TH, without the valve.
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05-08-2019, 03:26 PM
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#5
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Moderator Emeritus
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 21,191
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Yes, you do need the nut.
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05-08-2019, 03:30 PM
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#6
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Guru
City: Ft Pierce
Vessel Name: Sold
Vessel Model: Was an Albin/PSN 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 28,154
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Removing the seacock and not putting another seacock or glassing over should never pass a good survey and is not really a "safe" way of fixing the problem.
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05-08-2019, 03:40 PM
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#7
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,743
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On the hard I had one removed and glassed over. Looked like he did a good job.
It was in our storage compartment (aft of the engine compartment) exposed to gear adrift and something heavy could have knocked it off and presented a big job for our bilge pumps. Now it’s just flush hull bottom (inside) and no danger.
__________________
Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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05-08-2019, 04:16 PM
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#8
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Guru
City: St. Petersburg, Florida
Vessel Name: M/V Sherpa
Vessel Model: 24' Vashon Diesel Cruiser
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld
Removing the seacock and not putting another seacock or glassing over should never pass a good survey and is not really a "safe" way of fixing the problem.
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I don't like unnecessary holes in my hull. I had a below water line through hull that was not being used, which I removed and the hole fixed at the yard. I believe the repair was with CSM and vinylester. My hull is solid fiberglass with no core.
__________________
“Go small, go simple, go now”
― Larry Pardey, Cruising in Seraffyn
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05-08-2019, 04:17 PM
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#9
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Guru
City: Miami Florida
Vessel Name: Possum
Vessel Model: Ellis 28
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 5,308
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I think all of the above advice is good, especially about the nut.
One thing to keep in mind is that the threads on the cap won’t fully engage the thru-hull. The cap will have tapered threads and the thru-hull straight.
I’ve thought about filling the thru-hull with epoxy and then capping it. Probably over kill.
__________________
Parks Masterson
Retired from Hopkins-Carter Marine Supply
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05-08-2019, 04:33 PM
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#10
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Guru
City: Palm Coast, FL
Vessel Name: Coquina
Vessel Model: Lagoon 380
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 2,570
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I had a survey fail, with a seacock installed, but no hose on it.
The open hole, wherever it sits, needs to be capped off.
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05-08-2019, 04:38 PM
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#11
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Technical Guru
City: Wilmington, NC
Vessel Name: Louisa
Vessel Model: Custom Built 38
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 6,194
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Leave the broken sea cock in place and cap or plug the outlet with a bronze cap/plug. No need to replace or repair the seacock.
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05-08-2019, 05:17 PM
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#12
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Guru
City: Between Oregon and Alaska
Vessel Name: Charlie Harper
Vessel Model: Wheeler Shipyard 83'
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 3,023
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In addition to capping off, I drive a wood plug from the outside. My current boat had 3 marine heads that I replaced with Incinolets. Each head had an inlet and outlet thru hull. I capped and plugged. No issue with any survey.
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05-08-2019, 05:21 PM
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#13
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Moderator Emeritus
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 21,191
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I forgot to say that before I installed the through hull, I filled it with thickened epoxy. Then used 5200 to glue that cap on.
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05-08-2019, 05:26 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
City: Marathon, FL & On Loop
Vessel Name: Maka Honu
Vessel Model: Ta Yang, 42 Tayana PH Trawler 1976
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 313
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We hauled boat and removed all old seacocks and thru hulls repaired and sealed holes no longer needed and replaced all others with all new first quality marine bronze hardware. Bottom done.
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05-08-2019, 05:50 PM
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#15
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Guru
City: Anacortes
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 1,189
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Why not remove it? Takes less than an hour, reliable, and you can redrill it at a later time in 15 minutes.
Only reason I’d cap it is if I was going to need it in the next year and did not have a haul planned.
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05-08-2019, 05:54 PM
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#16
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Guru
City: Powell River, BC
Vessel Name: Northern Spy
Vessel Model: Nordic Tug 26
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 4,075
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I'd cap it for now, and repair the hole properly next haul out. In fact, that is exactly what I did eight or so years ago.
Fixing a hole isn't that big of a deal. Everything you need to know is in the West Epoxy Fiberglass Boat Repair Manual. Worst part was grinding the bevel prep. Not even a half day job.
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05-08-2019, 06:29 PM
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#17
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,743
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HopCar wrote;
“I’ve thought about filling the thru-hull with epoxy and then capping it. Probably over kill.”
For a hole the best could be “Chaulk Fast” (Sp?) as it dosn’t shrink.
__________________
Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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05-08-2019, 06:59 PM
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#18
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Guru
City: Quebec
Vessel Name: Bleuvet
Vessel Model: Custom Built
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 4,375
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If you are to fill it with epoxy or seal it with 5200 that means you don't want to use it anymore, ever. In that case better to do it right the first time and remove it before filling the hole. If you think you may ever use it for anything else, better to just cap it and seal it with something removable.
L
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05-11-2019, 08:45 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
City: Green Cove Springs,FL
Vessel Name: No Destination
Vessel Model: 1972 GulfStar Trawler 36
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld
Removing the seacock and not putting another seacock or glassing over should never pass a good survey and is not really a "safe" way of fixing the problem.
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I glassed over 3 trough hulls with no problems. Just have to know how to do it properly.
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05-11-2019, 09:09 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
City: Va Beach
Vessel Name: SeaShell
Vessel Model: 1974 Marine Trader 34 Sedan
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld
Removing the seacock and not putting another seacock or glassing over should never pass a good survey and is not really a "safe" way of fixing the problem.
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Please help me understand how a seacock is any safer than a sealed brass cap? Also help me understand why it wouldn’t pass a survey. Is there a regulation that states it can’t be capped or is it just a surveyors opinion?
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