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Old 05-08-2019, 12:55 PM   #1
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Cap off a thru-hull?

I have a thru-hull with a 1.5" tapered cone seacock that is not being used. The seacock is broken so I need to take action and remove it. Is there an obvious reason that I am missing why I shouldn't just remove the seacock and cap the the thru-hull off with a bronze 1.5" pipe cap? I have read where others recommend putting a new seacock in then using a bronze plug on the seacock. What's the difference other than about $150 ? I also do not want to pull thr thru-hull and glass it over permantly. Thanks.
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Old 05-08-2019, 01:53 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by SeaBreeze View Post
I have a thru-hull with a 1.5" tapered cone seacock that is not being used. The seacock is broken so I need to take action and remove it. Is there an obvious reason that I am missing why I shouldn't just remove the seacock and cap the the thru-hull off with a bronze 1.5" pipe cap? I have read where others recommend putting a new seacock in then using a bronze plug on the seacock. What's the difference other than about $150 ? I also do not want to pull thr thru-hull and glass it over permantly. Thanks.
Put a new valve on it in case you find a need scuttle the boat. WINK WINK
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Old 05-08-2019, 02:15 PM   #3
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I have done the cap thing before. I sealed the threads with 5200 so it won’t ever come off. Also if you have a bonding system don’t forget to bond the through hull.
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Old 05-08-2019, 03:12 PM   #4
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Its the seacock that locks the thru hull in place, correct?
You might need a big bronze nut to secure the TH, without the valve.

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Old 05-08-2019, 03:26 PM   #5
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Yes, you do need the nut.
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Old 05-08-2019, 03:30 PM   #6
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Removing the seacock and not putting another seacock or glassing over should never pass a good survey and is not really a "safe" way of fixing the problem.
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Old 05-08-2019, 03:40 PM   #7
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On the hard I had one removed and glassed over. Looked like he did a good job.

It was in our storage compartment (aft of the engine compartment) exposed to gear adrift and something heavy could have knocked it off and presented a big job for our bilge pumps. Now it’s just flush hull bottom (inside) and no danger.
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Old 05-08-2019, 04:16 PM   #8
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Removing the seacock and not putting another seacock or glassing over should never pass a good survey and is not really a "safe" way of fixing the problem.

I don't like unnecessary holes in my hull. I had a below water line through hull that was not being used, which I removed and the hole fixed at the yard. I believe the repair was with CSM and vinylester. My hull is solid fiberglass with no core.
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Old 05-08-2019, 04:17 PM   #9
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I think all of the above advice is good, especially about the nut.
One thing to keep in mind is that the threads on the cap won’t fully engage the thru-hull. The cap will have tapered threads and the thru-hull straight.

I’ve thought about filling the thru-hull with epoxy and then capping it. Probably over kill.
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Old 05-08-2019, 04:33 PM   #10
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I had a survey fail, with a seacock installed, but no hose on it.
The open hole, wherever it sits, needs to be capped off.
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Old 05-08-2019, 04:38 PM   #11
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Leave the broken sea cock in place and cap or plug the outlet with a bronze cap/plug. No need to replace or repair the seacock.
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Old 05-08-2019, 05:17 PM   #12
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In addition to capping off, I drive a wood plug from the outside. My current boat had 3 marine heads that I replaced with Incinolets. Each head had an inlet and outlet thru hull. I capped and plugged. No issue with any survey.


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Old 05-08-2019, 05:21 PM   #13
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I forgot to say that before I installed the through hull, I filled it with thickened epoxy. Then used 5200 to glue that cap on.
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Old 05-08-2019, 05:26 PM   #14
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We hauled boat and removed all old seacocks and thru hulls repaired and sealed holes no longer needed and replaced all others with all new first quality marine bronze hardware. Bottom done.
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Old 05-08-2019, 05:50 PM   #15
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Why not remove it? Takes less than an hour, reliable, and you can redrill it at a later time in 15 minutes.

Only reason I’d cap it is if I was going to need it in the next year and did not have a haul planned.
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Old 05-08-2019, 05:54 PM   #16
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I'd cap it for now, and repair the hole properly next haul out. In fact, that is exactly what I did eight or so years ago.

Fixing a hole isn't that big of a deal. Everything you need to know is in the West Epoxy Fiberglass Boat Repair Manual. Worst part was grinding the bevel prep. Not even a half day job.
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Old 05-08-2019, 06:29 PM   #17
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HopCar wrote;
“I’ve thought about filling the thru-hull with epoxy and then capping it. Probably over kill.”

For a hole the best could be “Chaulk Fast” (Sp?) as it dosn’t shrink.
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Old 05-08-2019, 06:59 PM   #18
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If you are to fill it with epoxy or seal it with 5200 that means you don't want to use it anymore, ever. In that case better to do it right the first time and remove it before filling the hole. If you think you may ever use it for anything else, better to just cap it and seal it with something removable.

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Old 05-11-2019, 08:45 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
Removing the seacock and not putting another seacock or glassing over should never pass a good survey and is not really a "safe" way of fixing the problem.

I glassed over 3 trough hulls with no problems. Just have to know how to do it properly.
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Old 05-11-2019, 09:09 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
Removing the seacock and not putting another seacock or glassing over should never pass a good survey and is not really a "safe" way of fixing the problem.
Please help me understand how a seacock is any safer than a sealed brass cap? Also help me understand why it wouldn’t pass a survey. Is there a regulation that states it can’t be capped or is it just a surveyors opinion?
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