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Old 11-17-2016, 07:10 PM   #21
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Old 11-17-2016, 10:01 PM   #22
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Boat Sounds UPGRADE

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Originally Posted by twistedtree View Post
Speaking of sound system, has anyone found a descent compact sub woofer? I have two 5" speakers in the pilot house that are good, but weak on base. I think a sub woofer would be a great improvement, but most are just too darn big. Or have really bad reviews like Pyle Audio.

I installed a Cambridge Audio system with 5 little cube speakers and a small subwoofer, powered by a Denon receiver. It sounds spectacular. I installed the subwoofer under the salon settee and ran the wire in the engine room. Click image for larger version

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Old 11-18-2016, 06:55 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by drb1025 View Post
I installed a Cambridge Audio system with 5 little cube speakers and a small subwoofer, powered by a Denon receiver. It sounds spectacular. I installed the subwoofer under the salon settee and ran the wire in the engine room.
That's similar to what I have in our salon, and it works great. I'm now trying to get something of similar performance in the pilot house.

The constraints are that I already have installed right and left speakers, and want to continue to use them. So any added sub woofer needs to be stand-alone, and self-powered. And the places where I can place a sub woofer are limited, so the smaller the better, without sacrificing sounds quality too much.
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Old 11-18-2016, 11:29 AM   #24
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Peter, the Bose subwoofer linked above is a passive (non-powered) sub that comes with 2 other small speakers for $200.

https://www.bose.com/en_us/products/...165&src=K22350
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Old 11-18-2016, 11:43 AM   #25
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Flywright. Love your new avatar. Twistedtree, I tryed a powered sub recently and was dissappointed completely. I sent it back. If you decide to try one of those make sure of the return policy prior to ordering it. It may meet your satisfaction. I would suggest you hedge that bet. Ponder your needs and SHOP SHOP SHOP. read the how-to's on the websites that offer these products. I have learned a lot and avoided what I think would have been costly mistakes on my project.
Good luck.
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Old 11-18-2016, 11:44 AM   #26
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Boat sounds upgrade, from the beginning.
When we purchased our current cruiser the sound system was barely adequate. It consisted of a Sony AM/FM player with a remote multi CD player. Sony Coaxial 6 1/2” speakers in the forward and aft staterooms as well as the Salon. 4”polyplanar on the fly bridge and pair of cheap plastic box speakers on the aft deck. Sad to say the least.
Primary problem # 1 The system had no means to adjust from the fly bridge where we spend the most time. Every adjustment required a trip down to the Salon. The fridge is there so one could always secure another beverage. Not always advisable but available just the same.
Primary problem # 2. The sounds outside were sad if not downright offensive. So I began to ponder.
What would the ideal system look like if I were to create it? That seems like the fundamental question for any project I seem to contemplate.
First off correct Primary problem # 1
Secondly correct Primary problem # 2 use of an exponent here seems prudent.
So to get full control of the head unit from the fly bridge is certainly possible. Products to do this are widely available from several manufacturers.
Criteria #1 for the head unit remote contol also includes some means to connect my music library to the new system. I currently use an old IPOD for the library. 3mm aux jack will be required.
I found several iterations of wireless remotes. Most are IR some were RF. neither I found would meet Criteria # 1. So maybe something with wires will be required.
Criteria # 2 for the new head unit would be the ability to easily expand the system to later include connection to amp or amps. Pre-amp outputs maybe a separate output for Sub woofers would be preferable over the speaker level connection to an amp as they present less options for later selections of amps and such.
Criteria # 3 for the head unit is silly but a requirement. It must fit the current cutout in the Salon. I like its location and all of the wires are already there.
Criteria # 4 the head unit cannot cost me more than my first car.
The search to fill criteria 1 through 3 was more of a search than I expected. At one point I was trying to settle for what was widely available but I new I would regret doing that after spending time and money without solving primary problems # 1 and 2. The search continued.
I stumbled upon a DUAL MXDMA80 head unit. It met all Criteria 1 through 4. Was on sale to include the remote unit with the 3 mm aux input jack. Pre-amp Outputs for Front and Rear stage and whizz bang pre-amp SUB output that is adjustable through the head unit. Like all standard head units the output power is limited to 17 Watts RMS (or less). No problem that is usually enough anyway. Well usually.
The head unit was installed and performed as expected. Happy for a while.
When the speakers died on the fly bridge the speakers on the aft deck had begun to rust.That rust was displeasing to the admiral.
The criteria for replacement speakers was specific for me. Full range coaxial for the flybridge with power handling capacity to be amplified later if I so desired. I wanted the best speaker with very low Hertz reproduction and very low free air resonance. Just in case I never install a Sub woofer, I want that bass!
That search produced the Polk MM651UM. 6 1/2” round coaxial with frequency response 40-25kHZ. 92db sensitivity rating 100 watts RMS. the 92db was important as this indicates the amount or volume output for a given input of 1 watt at 1000 hz measured at one meter. This is an excellent comparison figure especially when not adding an amp. It is a measure of efficiency. more or less.
Installed and CHECK. Fantastic response range as the spec sheet promised. This was a good selection from my stated criteria. Fly bridge is again inhabitable.
Next item was not so easy. Replace the simple box speakers on the aft deck. Search high and low in and out. I just could not find any one speaker to fit the space,match my audio spec requirements and the power handling capacity IF I proceed to the amplification stage of this project. I was looking closely and the Bose outdoor speakers models 151 and 251. These would fit the space but lacked the low end response I crave and must have. A dock mate has these and they do sound extremely good in the mid to upper frequency ranges. Bose does not seem to publish the specs of there products and that is a problem for me. Shorten the story to say I proceed to select the Polk db 692 6x9 tri-axial speakers and build the boxes shown earlier. The speakers themselves boast 30-22khz response range 93 db sensitivity with 150 watts RMS. The speakers themselves seem perfect the enclosures as previously stated will require sound absorbing material added inside. More on that later when the problem is solved and tested.
All was well for a while until one particular outing where we were participating in the sing-along at full volume. SOUNDS awesome. until the head unit shutdown. Overworked for sure. Cut out is a protection feature to prevent catastrophic failure. Enter the AMP stage of the upgrade.
Criteria for the amp is less complicated for me to define to myself and many options exist. I wanted an amp capable to be used as 3 or 4 channel bridgeable for possible addition of a Sub later if desired. Output should be at least 100 watts per channel used to power the full range speakers on the bridge and aft deck. 300 watts or greater bridged to power the sub. Output loads should be capable down to at least 2 Ohms. The options thin out here.
Selection is the Pioneer GM-D8604. Meets all of the criteria stated above. Good price so CHECK. installed and YES it does take the load from the head unit. I have connected the 4 outside speakers outlined above to the amp in parallel fed from the REAR channel of the head unit to the input channel A of the amp. This connection method allows me to adjust the volume of the outside speakers relative to the inside speakers via the FADER function. Works perfectly for us. I could have connected each of the 4 speakers to a separate channel but the sub was begging to be considered. The new speakers do reproduce that bass well, but what the hell. “I’m all about that bass, bout that bass”
Sub woofer selection was easy at this point. Criteria is again, must fit the available space, require no more than 300 watts to perform and Marine rated for sure.
Selection was the Polk MM1040 UM. This is a 10” sub Marine rated. 24-200hz, 350 watts RMS 91db sensitivity.
At this point I am unsure that I want to cut a 9” hole in the boat so I temp mounted it in a pre-built enclosure. Test run on a recent trip WOW Yes I can’t wait to cut another hole in the dam boat!! Boom de Boom Boom, no rattle. I hope. I will have to custom build another enclosure to fit in the space where I want it but too late to turn back now.
There are a couple of issues to resolve, I will define and outline the resolutions later.Happy Thanksgiving to those who may participate. and Cheers.
Dave.
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Old 11-18-2016, 12:04 PM   #27
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Djones44 There is nothing dirty about a sweet drop and swap! you are happy with it and that is the BINGO.
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Old 11-18-2016, 12:10 PM   #28
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Flywright I agree and have seen great indoor speakers short shanked by the outdoor environment. Salt would be an a killer. There a lot of options for outdoor sounds that should last a long time and sound great without breaking the bank. Boat bank.
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Old 11-18-2016, 12:25 PM   #29
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I installed a Cambridge Audio system with 5 little cube speakers and a small subwoofer, powered by a Denon receiver. It sounds spectacular. I installed the subwoofer under the salon settee and ran the wire in the engine room. Attachment 58814Attachment 58815
So with the hatch closed and cushion installed, you can still hear the bass sound?
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Old 11-18-2016, 12:58 PM   #30
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Here is the Polk Sub woofer in the temp Sound Ordnance enclosure. I hope the one i make will sound as well as this one.
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Old 11-18-2016, 02:09 PM   #31
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Boat Sounds UPGRADE

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So with the hatch closed and cushion installed, you can still hear the bass sound?

Yes, and feel it too, as if it wasn't in the hatch.
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Old 11-18-2016, 04:49 PM   #32
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Speaking of sound system, has anyone found a descent compact sub woofer? I have two 5" speakers in the pilot house that are good, but weak on base. I think a sub woofer would be a great improvement, but most are just too darn big. Or have really bad reviews like Pyle Audio.
How about just getting two new bigger better speakers that have good Bass response. JL makes and 8.5 inch two way speaker. I have 2 on my flybridge AND a 12 inch sub....way overkill. Anyway, excellent speakers. They also make a 7 inch and a 5.5. If you are looking for good sound without a sub, those 8.5s would do the trick. Otherwise I think JL makes a 10 inch sub.

You will see me pimp JL on here a lot. There is positively absolutely no better marine audio ANYWHERE!!! BUT.....you will pay for it. It is all a matter of how good do you want it to sound and how long do you want it to last. My last boat I had for almost 7 years. I installed a JL system when I bought it. That system was the subject of severe punishment by me and a bunch of wiggling gyrating girls. It lived outside in the elements uncovered for 8 months of the year. And it sounded as good the day I sold the boat as it did when it was brand new. What did I do when I bought my current boat....yep, JL all the way around.

Now I do use a Fusion 700 head unit. I don't even think JL makes head units....that is not their market. Their market is SOUND!!!
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Old 11-18-2016, 05:45 PM   #33
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Installing better side speakers is constrained by the space that I have available. 5" is all that will fit.

I might look into a 3 speaker bose setup. That's what we have in the salon, thought it's 5 channel plus sub woofer, and it works really well. I could remove the 5" speakers and maybe mount small speakers elsewhere.
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Old 11-18-2016, 08:24 PM   #34
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Djones44 There is nothing dirty about a sweet drop and swap! you are happy with it and that is the BINGO.
Cheers.
Thx T.

Actually, I sold that Canoe Cove last summer and now have a Sony system exactly as you describe above, on my Permaglass 33, and am contemplating the same drop-swap kluge again.

For me the upgrade is all about getting a sound system accessible by my mobile devices. There are workable audio controls on the bridge in place.

So Bluetooth and Wifi devices will feed into the (decent) existing speakers via a new receiver/hub. I manufacture advanced enclosures for the iPad and Samsung S3 tablet phone, so will look for a QB device to replace the legacy Sony AM/FM and integrate the tablets.

Suggestions?
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Old 11-18-2016, 09:51 PM   #35
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I use a Tunelink to provide a Bluetooth link to my non-BT Sony Xplod Stereo with wired FB remote and another wireless remote.

No doubt the new ones are BT now.
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Old 11-18-2016, 10:28 PM   #36
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Jones, are you saying the controls on the fly bridge will control the new hub? Or your Bluetooth device will control the hub. I get the BT feed music part. Not the controls.
Suggestions? What do you want for results ?
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Old 11-18-2016, 10:32 PM   #37
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Fly,
What is tunelink? What about model #? Sounds useful. I can plug the phone in for streaming music but BT would be a sweet addition. Tell me more.
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Old 11-18-2016, 10:50 PM   #38
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http://www.newpotatotech.com/TUNELIN...link_auto.html
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Old 11-18-2016, 10:54 PM   #39
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Google search looks like it links to the system using an FM transmission? Is that what you have?
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Old 11-18-2016, 10:59 PM   #40
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Ok now I see in plugs into aux jack. And 12 V plug. Walmart?
Jam up custom panel too!! What other cool stuff are making?
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