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Old 10-25-2014, 01:27 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
The bottom could be nothing more than years of built up, non-ablative paint flaking off...very common....especially with the transport and hull flexing.

If the yard did it while the boat was under sale...no telling what and why it was done any particular way...especially without knowing what paint was on there and what was applied. A few conclusions jumped to for sure blaming the yard when they might have done nothing more or less than normal or gosh forbid followed the PO's instructions to the letter no matter how ridiculous.

Sure yards can do a lousy job...but guessing without any facts is ridiculous....
I suppose the PO could have specified that they just slap some paint on the hull but if that's the case, he wasted $1200. I have the invoices from when the job was done July 23. The invoice says he upgraded to Petit 1877 Trinidad.
Not sure how much more it would have cost to do it right.
Maybe $1200 was a cheapie job?
All I know is when I surveyed the boat the bottom looked perfect. Now the paint is flaking off when I touch it.
You can clearly see there was no sanding or priming done.
It doesn't matter, I'll run the boat for a month or two and then haul it and repaint.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Puffin_NT32 View Post
Tunajoe,

Congrats on your new boat. On matching the paint, your boat color is Nordic Tug Oyster (Spectrum Color gelcoat). The metal (mast, windows, doors, et al) are powder coat, tough to match and apply. Spraying metal with gelcoat isn't really feasible. I found a good match with Pettit's EZ Poxy, a 2-part polyurethane, using 3-parts #3821 Yacht White and 1-part #3823 White Sand. Prep the metal and roll on the EZ Poxy combination. As an aside, I filled in the chines on my hull (the notorious NT hull slapping), and rolled and tipped the small section at the waterline with the EZ Poxy. Perfect match.
Thank you for this!!
I'm assuming I'll need to get the corresponding aluminum primer?
There are a few small areas on my doors where the powder coating is bubbling up, so I'll probably repair those too.

Thanks everyone for the kind words!.
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Old 10-25-2014, 09:33 AM   #22
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Beautiful boat, great times ahead...
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Old 10-25-2014, 10:19 PM   #23
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Glad you have your boat!
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Old 10-26-2014, 01:17 PM   #24
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Happy days ahead !

His much did it weigh sitting on the trailor ?
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Old 10-26-2014, 01:32 PM   #25
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I told the trucker 17500#
That took into account 150 gallons of diesel at about 7 pounds per gallon
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Old 10-28-2014, 01:45 AM   #26
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Speaking of shipping, when my boat was transported, the Brooks radar mast
Taken off along with the radome and false stack.

The powder coating was peeling everywhere.

I took a wire wheel on an angle grinder and took off all the loose stuff, I then sanded the whole mast and wiped it down with acetone that I purchased from an automobile paint supply store.
After that I primed it with self etching primer and then rattle can sprayed the whole mast with Rustoleum spray paint.
I initially planned to use the Pettit 2 part polyurethane but couldn't find it local anywhere.

The Heirloom White is a dead on match for the Nordic tug ivory color.

On Sunday, I took the kids and wife down the boat, and while they played, I installed the newly painted mast, radome, connected the anchor light wires, horn, rear facing video camera, and false stack.
I also re-bedded all the cables and the VHF wire penetration with silicon.

The bad news is I couldn't get the generator to start, but will admit it could be "operator error".

I also inspected my anchor chain and rode. I have 50' of chain but looks like the terminal link has some pretty good rust. I should probably cut it out and resplice.

I also started to replace my wiper arms and of course they are frozen solid.
The pantograph spindle is totally rusted so that part got ordered this morning from AM. I also ordered a wiper arm removal tool from amazon and will report back on how it works
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Old 10-28-2014, 01:52 AM   #27
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Hmmm had a bunch of pictures to post but they didn't upload...
Once more
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Old 10-28-2014, 01:54 AM   #28
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Oh well, the previous pic is what it looked like when I started and this is the finished mast installed...
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Old 10-28-2014, 01:55 AM   #29
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Wiper part rusted
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Old 10-28-2014, 07:43 AM   #30
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Good job! And yes I would be cutting off a link or two and resplicing. I have to get my neighbor to do it as I suck at it and he makes it look so dang easy.....
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Old 10-28-2014, 01:18 PM   #31
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Congrats! Our NT was also bought in Ft Lauderdale and trucked to us (albeit a much shorter trip up I95 to VA). In addition to the stack and mast, we also had to remove the upper deck rails (ours has the tall rails up top). The TV antenna was under the height restriction, so that stayed on the boat - until it blew off somewhere on I95. Apparently they are not designed for 65 MPH. Also did a lot of the same repairs you are doing. Re the genny, our battery had to be replaced. there is no charger for the genny battery becuase, as I understand, it can interfere with the alternator when the genny is running. If you run the genny a lot, you will be fine, but I do suggest putting a small portable smart charger on the battery every now and again to make sure it gets to full voltage. As for starting, assuming it is the same Northern Lights one we have, make sure you hold the glow plug switch for at least 10-20 seconds before trying to start. That made it much easier to get going once we figured that out. Finally, if you haven't subscribed yet, I strongly suggest joining the SENTOA list serve. It is the most active forum for NT owners, and the factory monitors the list. Best factory support I've ever enountered. I asked a question about wiring in a second chart plotter, and the response from the factory was let us check the original schematic for your boat. the then identified an extra DC wire that was already in place that we could tap into without running any additional wires. And this on a 10 year old boat that we didn't buy from them. Did you get the full factory documentaton, including the pictures of when she was first launched and sea trialed?
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Old 10-28-2014, 02:32 PM   #32
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You probably know this but When you reassemble the wipers put waterproof [resistant] grease on the hub and spline. you don't need gobs, just wet the mating parts with the grease.
Then they won't freeze like that even if the surronding metal corrodes.
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Old 10-28-2014, 03:20 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carolena View Post
Congrats! Our NT was also bought in Ft Lauderdale and trucked to us (albeit a much shorter trip up I95 to VA). In addition to the stack and mast, we also had to remove the upper deck rails (ours has the tall rails up top). The TV antenna was under the height restriction, so that stayed on the boat - until it blew off somewhere on I95. Apparently they are not designed for 65 MPH. Also did a lot of the same repairs you are doing. Re the genny, our battery had to be replaced. there is no charger for the genny battery becuase, as I understand, it can interfere with the alternator when the genny is running. If you run the genny a lot, you will be fine, but I do suggest putting a small portable smart charger on the battery every now and again to make sure it gets to full voltage. As for starting, assuming it is the same Northern Lights one we have, make sure you hold the glow plug switch for at least 10-20 seconds before trying to start. That made it much easier to get going once we figured that out. Finally, if you haven't subscribed yet, I strongly suggest joining the SENTOA list serve. It is the most active forum for NT owners, and the factory monitors the list. Best factory support I've ever enountered. I asked a question about wiring in a second chart plotter, and the response from the factory was let us check the original schematic for your boat. the then identified an extra DC wire that was already in place that we could tap into without running any additional wires. And this on a 10 year old boat that we didn't buy from them. Did you get the full factory documentaton, including the pictures of when she was first launched and sea trialed?
I have the Onan Gen.
I will try holding the glow plug/primer switch for a bit longer.
It starts and then as it starts to rev up, shuts down. Does that everytime.

I did get the factory documentation which was neat! Showed the results of the initial seatrial, etc.
I didn't get any pics though. I'd love to see those.


Quote:
Originally Posted by C lectric View Post
You probably know this but When you reassemble the wipers put waterproof [resistant] grease on the hub and spline. you don't need gobs, just wet the mating parts with the grease.
Then they won't freeze like that even if the surronding metal corrodes.
I plan on using this product:
TEF-GEL - Ultra safety systems - Home page

In the past, I've always used dielectric grease but plan on using this in the future
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Old 10-29-2014, 01:41 PM   #34
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On the generator, have you changed the fuel filters? We had similar symptoms last year, and changing the filters curred it. The filters didn't have many hours on them, and the tank fuel was clean, so we assumed it was becuase the generator hadn't really been run in about a year causing the fuel in the filter to go bad. Asside from filters, it could be one of the shutdown sensors. If a sensor, it should run as long as you are holding the override switch during start up, then die as soon as you let the switch go.

Our documentation included a picture of the boat in the slings when it was first launched, as well as one of the shop employees at the helm. It indicated that they invite someone from the shop for each sea trial to given them a sense of what they are working on. The guy who was invited on our boat was from the woodshop. Kind of neat to see the interior all wrapped up in plastic. The original sea trial numbers are a great resource to compare as the boat ages. Until he retired a few years ago, the founder, Jerry Husted, was known to have sea trialed almost every boat that left the factory. Wonderful company.
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Old 10-29-2014, 04:14 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carolena View Post
On the generator, have you changed the fuel filters? We had similar symptoms last year, and changing the filters curred it. The filters didn't have many hours on them, and the tank fuel was clean, so we assumed it was becuase the generator hadn't really been run in about a year causing the fuel in the filter to go bad. Asside from filters, it could be one of the shutdown sensors. If a sensor, it should run as long as you are holding the override switch during start up, then die as soon as you let the switch go.

Our documentation included a picture of the boat in the slings when it was first launched, as well as one of the shop employees at the helm. It indicated that they invite someone from the shop for each sea trial to given them a sense of what they are working on. The guy who was invited on our boat was from the woodshop. Kind of neat to see the interior all wrapped up in plastic. The original sea trial numbers are a great resource to compare as the boat ages. Until he retired a few years ago, the founder, Jerry Husted, was known to have sea trialed almost every boat that left the factory. Wonderful company.
The generator ran prior to be shipped. This was part of closing the deal. I had an independent Onan mechanic go to the boat and run it. Plus the broker sent me a short video of it running so I don't think it's bad fuel.

I think it could be some sort of shutdown sensor as you mentioned.
Because it does the same thing every time it starts to rev up.
Where would the override switch be?

Thank you for your help!
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Old 10-29-2014, 08:34 PM   #36
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On my northern lights 4.5k genny, there were 3 sensors: one oil pressure and two temps. The second one was in back of the genny, just before the elbow. Needing to hold the override switch to keep running is proof positive of a failed sensor. On mine they were tied together with a grey wire.
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Old 10-30-2014, 05:17 PM   #37
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"The generator ran prior to be shipped. This was part of closing the deal. I had an independent Onan mechanic go to the boat and run it. Plus the broker sent me a short video of it running so I don't think it's bad fuel.

I think it could be some sort of shutdown sensor as you mentioned.
Because it does the same thing every time it starts to rev up.
Where would the override switch be?

Thank you for your help! "

Ours ran as well, but after it was delivered the first time we used the genny it shut down after about an hour. Could have been that the filters were getting clogged, or maybe the fuel got stirred up during the trip. Can't hurt to change out the filters.

The override on our Northern Lights is a toggle swich that you hold to heat the glow plugs. There is a second toggle switch that you flip to start the unit, while continuing to hold the overide/glow plug switch. once it starts, you let the overide switch return to its middle position. Both switches are spring loaded so they return to center on their own when you let go. To test the sensors on ours, you would simply continue to hold the override after she starts. If it stops when you let go, that would indicate that one of the sensors is causing the shutdown. Hope this makes sense. Keep us posted.
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Old 10-30-2014, 08:13 PM   #38
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Try holding the glow plug switch another 5 or 10 seconds after she fires up so that the genny warms up enough to combust the fuel on its own. Sometimes i start mine and let go of the glow plug switch too soon and it dies.
Of course make sure your raw water is open too.
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Old 11-01-2014, 02:08 AM   #39
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Well, *ahem*, I was down on the boat today and went down into the ER to see about the generator and as I looked around, I noticed the raw water intake valve to the generator was CLOSED!
I'm not sure how I missed that, but anyways, once I opened that, she started right up.
Where's the "embarrassed " emoticon ?
Thanks everyone for your help.
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Old 11-01-2014, 07:05 AM   #40
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That's good because there are definite time limits on holding the glow plug switch on many gensets.

The point of holding it is to let oil pressure build and overcome the low oil shutdown safety, not to get the glow plug hotter...especially if it's already started.

If I remember the Onans on the Sea Rays had something like a 10 second limit, anything over that and you may damage the plugs.

Always check each manual to make sure what the proper procedures are and if you are goig to deviate for troubleshooting, that you are creating a bigger problem then when you started.
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