Boat docking,,,,

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Quite painstaking. Would prefer not to be a berth neighbor. They were inches away from collision. Prefer docking assuming single-handed.
 
Whitey, I consciously obtained an overlarge berth to avoid extremely close clearances.

 
Quite painstaking. Would prefer not to be a berth neighbor. They were inches away from collision. Prefer docking assuming single-handed.


Aww, minimum 3 feet, but the rest is true.
 

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I my boat handling skills were as bad as either video the Admiral would jump ship and never come back.. The first one is downright dangerous as the bow assistant almost gets squeezed between the rail and the piling. The second one the guy driving the boat isnt docking the boat.. his significant other does it by hand!.
HOLLYWOOD
 
Winty, I think your video is great and you will continue to learn your own boat and slip.
 
Sounds challenging Winty,but you clearly know the issues and are working on solutions. Keep at it and stay safe.
 
Winty. With so little clearance between hull & the fingers, single engine & no b/t you are doing well!!

I offer the following, seeing as you asked!

1 I would approach against the current.
2 I would ignore the pile, are you trying to lassoo it on the way in? If you are forget that, boat cant go anywhere once between the fingers. Fenders needed on both sides of course.
3 you dont need to go fast to get the rudder to work as you state. Slower boat speed (over ground) is better.
You effectively have a "stern thruster". Full helm and a kick ahead will turn your boat. Experiment in a clear space, you will soon understand how it works. Remember both ends of the boat move sideways ( in opposite directions) as it rotates somewhere around the middle.

4 When you have the hang of that come in against the current, aim to get an included angle of say 30 degrees between you and the up current side finger.
Gently plant the up current bow against the finger with a round fender between, big ball type if you have one.
Full helm and kick ahead to bring the stern up into the current.
As the stern comes up current the bow will come off the finger and you can ease the revs and helm, ready for astern as soon as you are in far enough.
You will soon be able to do that without the first "kiss".
 
His admiral should have used a line and not her body. Yikes.
 
The area the OP is referring to gets a lot of wind and current in the afternoons.

I may have been one of those kayakers paddling behind you.

I have twins, but I will often drift with the wind and current as you did when entering an exposed slip like this.
 
I realize that a canoe is extremely small compared to a trawler. But I have a question?

Does the technique of a "ferry glide" work with a large boat?

Never heard of a "ferry glide" but taking advantage of the back eddies is a must if you're paddling, and helpful if you have a slow boat in a fast river.

Maybe it's a holdover from my paddling days on a river with reversing 5+ knot currents in some places, but whenever I'm in a current I'm always "reading" the water, as well as the land and the charted depths. It's easy to pick out where there will be less foul current, more fair current, or maybe a helpful back eddy.

It's a good idea to watch docking videos. You can't learn to use all the subtle forces (prop walk, your pivot point, momentum, windage, spring lines, etc.) but you can at least identify the times you'd need to use them.

To me, a fully-fendered floating dock with fingers on both sides is one of the easier landings to make. If there were any wind or current I'd go in a little faster to make sure I didn't get pushed out of alignment on the way in, then back down to break momentum.

Far worse is a 2-boat slip where any sideways force on the bow or stern will spin you into your neighbor's boat. That's where a spring line comes in handy.
 
Far worse is a 2-boat slip where any sideways force on the bow or stern will spin you into your neighbor's boat. That's where a spring line comes in handy.

Spring lines are great. However, in almost all situations that I am familiar with, I have never been able to figure out how you get a spring line on the dock before you actually are docked. I certainly don't want my crew leaping from the boat to attach a spring line. Large tides make pilings an iffy prospect at best. Either they are too high to toss a line over or are so covered with barnacles and muscles that they will chew through a line quickly. Tossing a line and hoping to loop a cleat is not something I want to count on since if it is missed, you now don't have the spring line available as you were planning on.

What am I missing?
 
Neither docking is at all dependent upon the female crew. In the first one, all she is seen to do is to hold a fender at the ready as the rails come close to the piling. If that were my permanent slip, I would have a line attached to the floating dock at that outer corner, and the loop end hanging from the top of the piling, so that as the bow of the boat passes that point, the line can be grabbed and dropped onto the midships cleat. Then the bow can not go too far into the slip. Once stopped by that first line, the permanently attached bow lines can be dropped onto the bow cleats. then step off and get the Stb stern line onto the stern cleat.

In the second video, the one shot in Noumea, New Caledonia (Fr), the female crew is merely a distraction. You see the boss stops what he is doing to talk to her. I think he was repeating the usual instructions, "Don't expect to be able to control the boat from down there, with only your hands, as this boat weighs 10000 kg, (180 times your weight) so your puny effort is doing nothing and may get you into trouble."
He does keep his hands off of the wheel as he turns the boat, but he also relies on pressure against the fender at the corner of the dock, which I would not do. Fenders move, docks scratch fibreglass. He needs to get turned out in the fairway, then use his port pulling prop-walk to pull the stern towards the dock as he backs in.
 
I would sit the assistant down back inside the boat. Otherwise it's just a matter of learning. However, use the power of the boat and don't risk injury. No one should be reaching outside the boat trying to do anything. Any fenders needed in use, have in place in advance. As long as you get the bow slightly inside the slip, all else can be adjusted and you can correct slowly. Use the slip to help you, not a human.

I don't care how much damage a boat might receive, I'll never risk damage to a person to protect the boat. Fact is, the person can't do anything anyway considering the weight and force of a boat.

Oh, and I don't care about style points. You get it in without damage to human or property and that's all that ultimately matters.
 
In slow, non-emergency docking situations...


A reasonably experienced crewman with a properly sized fender can be the difference between a bump and crunch.


Not saying everyone should do it, but it should be the goal of every regular crewman to be able to safely do so...at least in the 20 meter and under range unless it is some monster expedition yacht or the yacht fenders are too large to handle comfortably...but in the 45 foot and under trawler crowd, usually, not always, a well placed fender at the last minute is a pretty helpful skill.
 
Human fenders don't have a warranty.
 
Why isn't it placed prior to the last minute?

When we are in a position where the wind is holding us tight against the dock, I'll "roll" out into the fairway by swinging the stern out using differential thrust; rudder hard to dock, outside engine forward, inside engine reverse. We don't always know exactly where the stem, or at some point aft of the stem, is going to contact the dock. My wife is there and knows where to hold a fender (by its line) lowered against the boat and the dock. Prior to departing, it would be a guess where to tie the fender in most cases.
 
Why isn't it placed prior to the last minute?
spend enough time and you will see.....

especially in certain situations, boats and crew....and most importantly...external factors you cant control.
 
To the OP: Newbie fromNJ: Next time you are out in calm water, with little or no wind. When making way (2 to 3 knots) with the rudder midships, back the engine HARD. Observe which way the stern slews. (my guess would be to port) That effect is propwalk. Learn to use that phenomenon to your advantage. It may be that you will learn to use it to dock to one side preferred to the other It IS that effective to use it as a tool for handling the boat!

Propwalk. I doubt the initial comment of 'current pulling the stern to the port' is accurate. It is likely due to prop walk. My guess is the boat is Right hand wheeled. Judging by how he came upon the first dock and didn't easily slew the stern to stbd. Maybe realization to dock port side too would be a novelty to try.

Regarding 'ferry glide' (hadn't heard that term before) It is known as "Set and Drift" in the transportation world. Applies to both aviation as well as marine use. It is part of knowing both how much and what direction you are being set sideways (the mentioned 'crabbing') and how to counteract it.

Regarding fender placement. Fenders are just about useless when tied off, when approaching a slip, or in a tight dock. You can't be assured where the fender is tied up is where contact will be. (unless you are so good you dock absolutely flat alongside (then you don't really need fenders do you!?)) Nothing like seeing a couple fenders being 'spit out' as they roll up and on top of a dock to disprove the 'tie off fenders early' routine. You can tie off a couple, but having one loose and free to insert in the correct place (prior to the bump) is more helpful. In the case of the video, the issue isn't that the crew has a fender, it is the fender is too small a diameter to fend the HULL off the steel piling. It will only take a couple impacts of fender on the stainless handrail to bend break or loosen the stanchion bases. The fender has to be low enough to transmit the docking impact to the hull (and NOT the handrail) and large enough to keep the handrails out of the equation.

I like round polyballs. They are awesome for fender use especially under flared bows and down low on floating piers like those shown. The only issue with polyballs is they take up a lot of room to stow. But just one can be a life saver. I seem to recall seeing some frequent poster having a couple hanging from the rigging in posted pics.
 
spend enough time and you will see.....

especially in certain situations, boats and crew....and most importantly...external factors you cant control.

I've spent a lot of time and years on boats but will always accept damage to boats over risk to humans. I saw risk to the lady in the video. I've known some serious injuries to occur in similar situations. I've only witnessed one such situation.
 
I know my sister ended up with a broken wrist when she got her hand and arm between the piling and boat while docking trying to fend the boat off a piling. Our family has had many years of time handling boats. Keep all hands inside the boat while docking, boats can be repaired.
 
I'm too busy to take pictures while docking. :banghead:
 
Like everything in boating...there are levels we should all know about...they are not inherently safe, or dangerous...just what the person doing them is capable of.

I liken it to the fuel 1/3 rule....1/3 out, 1/3 back, 1/3 reserve.

Lots of experienced boaters (well that's what is thought) often chime in about this. They never really say that it is different for newbies or expert mariners.

No pro captain I know would admit to using the 1/3 rule because he/she didn't know enough about fuel consumption and "possibilities" to be able to take on a task and go below 1/3 of a tank prior to arrival at the destination.

If I used that on countless USCG or Pro Captain tasks, I would have been relieved or fired that many times....unless it was a REALLY good reason.

The same is true of a good mate...they know how to use a fender to avoid the possible bang or scrape without endangering anything...as I said...not everyone is there...but it isn't inherently unsafe.
 
My suggestion would be to enter the berth at less of an angle. With the luxury of a fairway that wide I'd try to avoid the last minute turn and bounce off the dock.

Learn to read the wind and tide conditions, so you know how far downwind/downstream you'll be pushed while crossing the channel.
As you cruise down the opposite side of the channel, turn a right angle early or late, and allow the wind/current to correct your position as you idle across the channel.

Just thinking about it, ..... that is how I would do it with my full length keel. That doesn't mean it is the right way to do it. It may not work as well for another boat that the wind will twist around more, rather than just push it sideways.

Practice, practice, practice is the only fool proof advice. (and be safe)
 
Docking with severe cross current and same cross wind is difficult no matter what.

Especially to a narrow dock.

There are many variables in a single approach that can challenge the best boat handlers.

At any given moment, wind speed or tidal flow can vary, where I am it often does and varies a lot. Often the wing is gusty or turbulent, not nice and steady. Either of these can constantly require tweaking of your crab if coming in straight for some distance.

Then there is usually the diminishing current as you enter the slip, which will have a large effect on single engine trawlers with a full keel as they are very shallow forward and very deep aft usually. This means the second you start entering the slip, the boat naturally twists, srern downstream.

There almost always are several techniques that can help you successfully dock, but slipping in the narrow slip without touching snything, in togh conditions, won't happen every time, no matter how good you are. Many if not all the best boat handlers I know can't do it.

When the current and wind are really ripping, the only approach I am comfy with is.....

I use the common thought that many vessels pivot when turning on a point about 1/3 of the way aft from the bow. I stay pretty close to the side I am turning into and make bare steerage way. When the bow to that 1/3 point gets near my slip (and only practice will tell you when), I go hard over on the wheel and give the boat some power. Again, only practice and estimating the wind and current can tell you how much.

By doing this, every movement is as slow as you can be, the time outside the slip is minimized so the time the forces can act on you is minimized thus less to guess. Also if something goes wrong, there is the least amount t of distance for those forces to act upon you and gain momentum prior to hitting something.

As I said, other ways are posdible, but will probably need more power and speed. They can be your friends or enemies. If controlled perfectly, a docking can look easy, if not, you hit things faster and harder. That's why I take the chicken way out, not as impressive as acfast, clean entry....but less spectacular if I dont time something just right.

So in all....my approach ideally would look like an approach with an after bow spring. I would use one if I could, but if not, this is using the wind and current to hold my bow somewhat like a spring while the natural pivot point allows a smooth quick turn into the slip. Easier said than done.
 
Several things not mentioned single screw.
1) I will always request someone to take a line on the dock if at all available. They do not have to cleat it just give it a good wrap or two and stand there looking pretty.
2) The only line someone helping will get is a spring. I don't need to get pulled in just held in place after we are in the slip
3) Maintain steerage at lowest speed reasonable by small bumps of power
4) Prop walk for the un-initiated. Imagine prop as wheel on a car. Whichever way it would roll across the bottom is the direction the stern will go. This can really be your new best friend.
5) Given the option do not hesitate to ask for another slip. It is your fiberglass and insurance.
6) Laying (not crashing) against a piling is not bad and may be the best pivot point to proceed from. That is what rub rails are for.
7) It is not perfect every time but advance planning and practice will help remove some of the angst. An adult beverage afterwards takes care of the rest.
 
Looks Good Winty.
I might suggest a little slower. The "roving fender" is a good idea as long as people are cautious of their hands.

They're called "rub rails" for a reason. If you don't hit them too hard, you can slide along and you shouldn't do any damage with a nice carpeted piling like you have (depending on how the rub sails are constructed)

I might try leaving a spring line cleated to the dock and then coiled nicely at the end of the slip where a boathook could grab it. Of course you need to practice with the boathook, the spring line, and proper cleating technique when a line is coming under tension but it might help to have something to help you line it up.

Good luck, keep practicing, no broken people or boats is doing great!

Now I want to film our docking to see how it looks from somewhere other than behind the wheel.....
 
Another tid-bit to think about in addition to the steering point being somewhere near the centre of the boat (instead of the bow like a car) is that a boat turns like a car on ice, in that it slides and drifts in a turn as opposed to tracking a consistent diameter curve.
 

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