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Old 08-23-2017, 11:30 AM   #1
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Big Cleats

Hi All,

Now don't laugh too hard, but this "sailor" has had sailboats up to 32' that had cleat sizes that would accommodate any commercial 1/2" dock line, where you put the eye through the cleat bottom, then around each ear.

The new boat has these monster cleats that no lock line eye can spread wide enough to go over both ears. Is it OK to just loop the eye around 1 ear? Looks like it could pop off.

Recommendations?
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Old 08-23-2017, 11:38 AM   #2
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I routinely loop only half of the cleat. Never had a problem. Consider reversing direction so the loop has to make a change of direction inside the cleat, it will better resist coming out that way.

Monster cleats are handy in storms as you can tie multiple lines on without gagging the cleat. If you get into storm conditions, the other lines on the cleat will keep the half-looper from moving.
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Old 08-23-2017, 12:00 PM   #3
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Bowlines to make adjustable loops work well. But not at the Yacht Club.

Or learn to splice lines and make eyes whatever size you want.

As to one ear attach it should work well if the line attached is under constant tension. But questionable otherwise.

Only problem w big cleats is the cost and weight. Put all the cleats in a stout sack and lift it.
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Old 08-23-2017, 12:51 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ski in NC View Post
I routinely loop only half of the cleat. Never had a problem. Consider reversing direction so the loop has to make a change of direction inside the cleat, it will better resist coming out that way.

Monster cleats are handy in storms as you can tie multiple lines on without gagging the cleat. If you get into storm conditions, the other lines on the cleat will keep the half-looper from moving.
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Old 08-23-2017, 01:28 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ski in NC View Post
I routinely loop only half of the cleat. Never had a problem. Consider reversing direction so the loop has to make a change of direction inside the cleat, it will better resist coming out that way.

Ski! Thanks for that idea! I have a few lines whose eyes are a bit too small to go around both horns of my hawse holes easily. I will just loop around one. Your idea is just too dang simple and makes it much more secure. I've yet to have had a problem, but it is something that I think about.

Another simple example of why TF has been so valuable for me.
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Old 08-23-2017, 02:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ski in NC View Post
I routinely loop only half of the cleat. Never had a problem. Consider reversing direction so the loop has to make a change of direction inside the cleat, it will better resist coming out that way.

Monster cleats are handy in storms as you can tie multiple lines on without gagging the cleat. If you get into storm conditions, the other lines on the cleat will keep the half-looper from moving.
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Old 08-23-2017, 04:19 PM   #7
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Our boat has large cleats and I've noticed that some premade dock lines have larger loops than others (some fit, some don't).
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Old 08-23-2017, 04:45 PM   #8
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Why focus on looping the eye - go ahead and "cleat" the line down properly.
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Old 08-23-2017, 05:12 PM   #9
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My traveling dock lines have a three foot loop on one end and no loop on the other. That way if someone on the dock is helping me, I just hand them they loop and they can drop it over a cleat or piling and I can adjust the length on the boat end.

My home dock cleats have custom spliced loops on each end. They stay attached to the dock and when I return home I just drop the loop over the cleat on the boat. No need to feed it through the cleat.
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Old 08-23-2017, 05:54 PM   #10
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I liked having my lines made up with larger loops at one end, and putting those on the dock cleats. Having the bitter end on board makes it easier to adjust.. no getting off the boat. Almost all professionally run boats, not to mention ships, do it that way as well.
Also when it comes time to go, usually much faster to pop off, right from the boat the last remaining spring as it slacks. I also had some lines with really big loops to throw over pilings, same idea.
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Old 08-23-2017, 07:38 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopCar View Post
My traveling dock lines have a three foot loop on one end and no loop on the other. That way if someone on the dock is helping me, I just hand them they loop and they can drop it over a cleat or piling and I can adjust the length on the boat end.

My home dock cleats have custom spliced loops on each end. They stay attached to the dock and when I return home I just drop the loop over the cleat on the boat. No need to feed it through the cleat.
[QUOTE=Menzies:] Why focus on looping the eye - go ahead and "cleat" the line down properly.


Exactly!
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Old 08-23-2017, 07:50 PM   #12
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Most of tbe time now, I prefer to leave the loop on the boat cleat and run the line around the dock cleat or piling and bring it back to the boat.

Easy to adjust and easy to cast off to leave in the morning. No need to get off the boat and less of a chance of a loop catching on something.
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Old 08-23-2017, 07:57 PM   #13
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You guys are far too focused on speed.

Take it easy, take your time to tie up and un-tie.

Life is not a race to be the most efficient.

Relax.
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Old 08-23-2017, 08:02 PM   #14
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An alternative to a spliced loop end is the bowline knot, which can be any size you want to make it. Easy to tie, relatively easy to undo, and a good safe knot in my experience.
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Old 08-23-2017, 08:14 PM   #15
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An alternative to a spliced loop end is the bowline knot, which can be any size you want to make it. Easy to tie, relatively easy to undo, and a good safe knot in my experience.
It is a great knot - especially on the bow eye of the dink for towing.

But the knot can be a bit "clunky" around a cleat depending on rope size.
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Old 08-23-2017, 08:17 PM   #16
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Its not about speed, its convenience and safety....

Working on the water taught me that.

Not sure why one would use a bowline on a cleat anyhow.
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Old 08-23-2017, 08:20 PM   #17
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Its not about speed, its conveniene and safety....

Working on the water taught me that.
Talk to me about safety with using a loop versus cleating? Not sure I get that?
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Old 08-23-2017, 08:30 PM   #18
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Getting on and off the boat aftet the stairs are stowed, being able to use them as ready made springs retrievable from the vessel, allows you politely decline help from dangerous dock helpers,doubles up your lines every tie up for no more effort or lines, etc, etc...

Its the way I do it, so it is safety and convenience for me, not necessarily everyone....but it isnt for speed as you suggested.
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Old 08-23-2017, 08:48 PM   #19
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I have a relatively large (for my boat), single cross Samson Post at the bow. I often joke that a crane could probably lift my boat by it!
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Old 08-23-2017, 11:31 PM   #20
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when you pass the loop through the base, take a half or full wrap around the base, then loop the horn of the cleat.
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