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Old 04-15-2014, 10:25 AM   #21
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After scraping 13 coats of hard epoxy antifouling paint the POs applied, I'll never subject myself or the next owner to that again.
I understand your point but depending on the climate and use of the boat hard paint might be the only type that will be effective.
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Old 04-15-2014, 10:33 AM   #22
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Last 17 years been applying Pettit Trinidad as it last 3+ years. Each time the hull is sanded and two coats applied, so there is not very much build up. I have a diver twice a year clean the heavy growth, prop/shaft/rudder/through hulls/heavy growth areas and check the zincs. We are pulling in June as its been 3 years.
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Old 04-15-2014, 10:45 AM   #23
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Don't know if it's available over there but Jotun Sea Guardian is good for brackish water. Mate has used it for 5yrs and I plan on putting it on AXE.


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Old 04-15-2014, 10:47 AM   #24
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.......... I have a diver twice a year clean the heavy growth, prop/shaft/rudder/through hulls/heavy growth areas and check the zincs. .....
In my area we have to have the hulls cleaned every three weeks or so in the summer, perhaps every two months in the winter.

BTW: I wouldn't do what my diver does for what I pay him. That water is pretty nasty and full of critters.
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Old 04-15-2014, 07:25 PM   #25
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I don't want to turn a thread about bottom paint into a discussion of hull cleaning, but a number of posters so far have discussed hull scraping/pressure-washing, so here goes: My hull received two coats of bottom paint (brand unknown, but done at a very reputable yard) in 2012. The paint is black, if that helps? The boat is in Prince William Sound, in Southcentral Alaska.

As a diver, in 2013 I took a deck brush down to remove some of the green scum that accumulated over the winter and found that even gentle brushing would release clouds of black "dust" into the water. This appears to be a surface layer of oxidized paint--there is no chipping or other signs that the paint had failed mechanically to attach to the hull.

My question is whether it is better to leave the green scum *and* all the paint where it is, rather than lose some of the paint through the brushing process? Or is a clean bottom always a "happier" bottom, as long as the bottom paint is not wearing visibly thin?

This is my first boat with anti-fouling paint. As a diver, I can give it all the care it needs below the waterline, but a haul-out will be much more difficult and I'd like to delay it a few years, if possible. Thanks in advance for any insight or suggestions!
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Old 04-15-2014, 07:52 PM   #26
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If the paint produced a "plume" of color when cleaned, it is an ablative paint. These paints need cleaning just like any other and removing some if it during the cleaning process is simply the nature of the beast. That said, you can minimize the pluming by cleaning it with something very soft, like carpet or a microfiber towel (not a deck brush.) The trick is to never let the bottom get foul to the point where something very soft won't do the job.
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Old 04-16-2014, 03:24 AM   #27
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Thanks for the info, fstbttms. I can tell by your avatar that you're no stranger to working underwater... I'm thinking of taking my pressure-washer down & jetting the scum off my hull without the elbow grease required by a brush (or carpet or cloth, etc.) Does that sound like a good idea? I figure if some of the paint is going to "plume" anyway, might as well find a way to make it as quick and easy as I can. What is your experience using water pressure underwater as a cleaning technique?

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Old 04-16-2014, 08:26 AM   #28
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Never, ever use a pressure washer on a painted surface underwater. Unless blasting the paint off the hull is your intention.
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Old 04-16-2014, 10:15 AM   #29
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We need to haul, repaint and zinc our GB42 this spring. We're moored in brackish water and have to abide by Canadian environmental regulations. Any recommendations?...and what kind of quantity am I looking at?
Thanks - Boyd
WEST MARINE PCA Gold Antifouling Paint with Irgarol | West Marine

I too am in brackish water (La Conner, WA). Pretty much anything with Irgarol (West Marine PCA Gold, Woolsey Yacht Shield, Pettit Ultima 40/60) will last for a very very long time. We have been very happy with this product.....going on 5+ years (quarterly bottom cleaning). 2 coats with a 3rd along the waterline.


As far as amount you'll need..... here is a calculator for a basic guide.

Bottom Paint Calculator
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Old 04-16-2014, 11:13 AM   #30
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Canadian regs don't allow anti-slime additives.
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Old 04-16-2014, 05:05 PM   #31
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Never, ever use a pressure washer on a painted surface underwater. Unless blasting the paint off the hull is your intention.
Have about a regular garden-variety hose nozzle? Would that provide a strong enough stream to remove the scum without damaging the paint in any way?
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Old 04-16-2014, 05:26 PM   #32
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Have about a regular garden-variety hose nozzle? Would that provide a strong enough stream to remove the scum without damaging the paint in any way?
My guess is that not only will the garden hose not damage the paint, it won't remove the fouling growth either. But you can always give it a shot.
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Old 04-16-2014, 06:11 PM   #33
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Never, ever use a pressure washer on a painted surface underwater. Unless blasting the paint off the hull is your intention.
Why is that? Something to do with the pressure washer being underwater? (Not arguing whatsoever -- just trying to learn something.)
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Old 04-16-2014, 06:18 PM   #34
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Why is that? Something to do with the pressure washer being underwater? (Not arguing whatsoever -- just trying to learn something.)
In order for the pressure washer to overcome the ambient water resistance and be in any way effective, the tip of the wand must be placed very close to the surface being cleaned. At this distance, the water pressure is extremely high and difficult to control. Not only are you likely to blast paint off the hull but you may very well gouge the fiberglass. Don't even think about doing it with wood.
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Old 04-16-2014, 07:06 PM   #35
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Room Seven,
Is your boat aluminum?
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Old 04-17-2014, 04:13 PM   #36
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Room Seven,
Is your boat aluminum?
No, 'glass. I think I'll try the garden hose nozzle, perhaps coupled with a *soft* deck brush (I was using a pretty stiff deck brush before).
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Old 04-17-2014, 04:21 PM   #37
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No, 'glass. I think I'll try the garden hose nozzle, perhaps coupled with a *soft* deck brush (I was using a pretty stiff deck brush before).
Or you could just pay a pro to do it.
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Old 04-17-2014, 05:02 PM   #38
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No, 'glass. I think I'll try the garden hose nozzle, perhaps coupled with a *soft* deck brush (I was using a pretty stiff deck brush before).
Newton's Third Law. That's all I have to say on the matter.
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Old 04-17-2014, 05:51 PM   #39
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I don't know if it's typical of aluminum boat antifoul paints but the black stuff I put on my aluminum skiff is VERY soft. Drag your hand across it and your hand is black.

Speaking of black ........ One of the local fishermen in Craig AK thinks black antifouling paint works better than anything else. So I mention this in the interest of starting another old wife's tale ... As if there wasn't enough. I'm old enough to think it won't look like a boat unless it's red. Hmmm but there are a lot of red barns. And Larry's Boomerang looks wonderful in green.
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Old 04-17-2014, 06:15 PM   #40
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Copper affects paint coloration, so darker anti fouling paints can have a higher copper load than lighter colors. That being said, I have never found any color of a particular line of anti fouling paints to be more effective than another.
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