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Old 02-06-2016, 08:18 AM   #1
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Bayliner 4788 ?'s

The Admiral and i looked at a 4788 yesterday. There is a lot to like and it has moved to the top of our shortlist. My biggest concern is engine room access. All The filters are centerline and while cramped are accessible and there is a reverso system for oil changes. The removable hatches allow access to the topside of the engines. So my question is how do you access the area outside of the engines. The battery charger, blowers and some other equipment are on the outboard side and I question if i can get my 6' 3" body in that cramped space and more importantly if i can get out without calling the fire department? I know there are a number of 4788 regulars on this forum and i would appreciate the benefit of your experience. I am an incurable DIY'er so I want to be able to get out there and fix whatever breaks in that tight space.
Thanks a bunch.
Mitchell
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Old 02-06-2016, 08:25 AM   #2
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Dimer2 has one and has crawled all over the ER. He even cut a hatch in the floor to be able to check oil levels , etc. without going into the ER. Maybe he can chime in and give you some details. Nice boat by the way. Love the layout.
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Old 02-06-2016, 08:31 AM   #3
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Well a Fleming 55 is no better. Try getting into an ER on a KK 42. To some ER access is not an initial issue, then you're stuck with it. At least you've thought about it up front, some don't care.
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Old 02-06-2016, 08:35 AM   #4
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Mitchell this was one of my first 'mods'. If not already done, (most already have the mod and new Meridians have incorporated it into their new builds). You add a centerline hatch and two outboard hatches. This allows you to easily do engine checks and the like, through the center hatch, without crawling from the stairway all the back to the engine room. The outside hatches require you to move furniture but is normally required only monthly or so and is no big deal. This is not a cheap mod unless you DIY.


The many plus's of the 4788 make it well worth it in my opinion.
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Old 02-06-2016, 08:43 AM   #5
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I have owned two 45 Bayliner Pilothouse boats as well as the 47 Bayliner Pilothouse that we own now. Over 25 years now I have done all the maintenance myself on each of these boats and I am 6' 2" and have had no issues getting things done on the boats. The 47 is easier than the 45's as the placement and space is better but even though I am not nearly as young as I used to be this is not a problem.
Good luck with your search - sent you a PM
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Old 02-06-2016, 09:19 AM   #6
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Greetings,
Mr. c. As mentioned you're wise to be looking ahead to potential future maintenance "issues". While not familiar, at all, with ANY Bayliner models allow me to re-state that "EVERY boat is a compromise". Mr. d2 has mentioned his work around and I'm sure others will offer suggestions as well.

Even with an expansive ER there are STILL places where one needs arms 4' long with two wrist joints and 4 elbows. Those "clever" touchy/feely places that would be best accessed by a 2 year old with night vision and that "where the blazes did that nut disappear to" spot. Sometimes IF you stick your tongue out in just the right way...That helps.
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Old 02-06-2016, 11:42 AM   #7
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Access is limited to some things.

The hatches help, unfortunately there is still the starboard holding tank that limits access to the starboard engine. The water pumps as well are tough to work on, especially on the port engine. Air conditioning sea water pump limits access to the port water pump if it's located in front of the port engine as mine was. The water pumps are a hassle as it was easier to remove the engine mount and remove the pump to change impellers. The water pumps need attention every 300 hrs or so. There are better pumps from Tony Athens available to replace the Sherwood stock pumps. The course computer is located behind the settie in the bulkhead of the salon, Guess how I know that one, and the electronic compass can be located in the stern near the transom port side or under the stairs to the pilot house depending on whim of installer. That's pretty much the worst of it. These 4788's are great boats that offer 18knt cruise speed when you need it or good tracking at 6 knts if you what to save fuel. The 4788 is a modular boat , aluminum and fiberglass with caulked seams. I experienced some leaks in these seams that were minor and easy to repair. The Bayliner forum is a great source of information on these boats.
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Old 02-06-2016, 12:38 PM   #8
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First thing as others have said is to add a hatch between the engines this will change the whole dynamic of the engine room.

Accessing the outboard side of the port engine is from the top down or crawling around the front. I don't find crawling around the front to be problematic, and accessing from the top is easy as well.

The starboard engine is another story. With the big holding tank there you can't get to much. I had the holding tank removed, and a Raritan hold and treat system installed in its place. This opened up a lot of space which came in very handy when I had to replace the starter. Even with that mod, crawling around the back side of the engine was a chore.

Another thought, and I remember someone doing this...would be to add hatches outboard of each engine. The port engine would be easier. The starboard engine could be done but you have to take apart the sofa to get to it.

As you're probably seeing looking at boats, for the most part twin engine boats in the 45 to 50 foot size, have engine rooms that are buried underneath the sole , and accessing the outboard sides of the engines can be a challenge. While I really like our 4788, there are boats with better engine rooms but it's hard to beat The 4788 for all the rest that it offers.
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Old 02-06-2016, 03:09 PM   #9
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Thanks to all of you for your very helpful responses. Seems best solution is a midget mechanic!
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Old 02-06-2016, 03:42 PM   #10
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" The water pumps as well are tough to work on, especially on the port engine. Air conditioning sea water pump limits access to the port water pump if it's located in front of the port engine as mine was. The water pumps are a hassle as it was easier to remove the engine mount and remove the pump to change impellers. The water pumps need attention every 300 hrs or so. There are better pumps from Tony Athens available to replace the Sherwood stock pumps."


Hello Scary,
That is pretty accurate with the Cummins 6b in the boats, when I have helped others put in the Sea max pumps the access is much easier and they last much longer.
With the Hino engines in our boat the access to either pump is not a problem at all. If you want to swap out the impellers or the entire pump its not bad at all and there is no need to pull the engine mount(s).
I also made a simple tool from an expanding concrete anchor that will grab the impellers from the inside at the outer ends. With that tool I can pull & replace both impellers in less than 10 minutes and maybe another 10 minutes to get both covers and gaskets back on. I have a pdf on how to make and use the tool and if anyone would want it I can send it to them - takes a $5 concrete anchor and about 10 minutes with a grinder.
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