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Old 09-03-2014, 11:44 AM   #21
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Does anyone here use ablative paint? I used Petit HydroCoat with good results, but that was on a trailer able boat. I would like to be able to put my Mainship 390 on hard for 30-60 days without paint concerns.
I use their Ultima SR-40 Ablative and it works great including being out of the water for a couple of months last fall then back in to cruise to Florida for the winter. I use their Barnacle Barrier zinc spray on all underwater metal. Bottom and metal came out looking exceptional.

Dave
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Old 09-03-2014, 03:57 PM   #22
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I certainly would not strip the bottom paint off. Just pressure wash and recoat, no need to waste several hundred dollars worth of well adhered bottom paint. I just did the bottom on my sporty this month. Pressure wash and repaint. 4 gallons of ablative on a 48 foot hull. But, I could have just changed the zinks and put her back. This is after 4 years in the water. No corrosion, no electrolisis, nothing. The zinks were still decent. I pulled one prop and had it fixed. We had a slight vibration on the port side at speed. May have picked that up at the oyster bar just before St Augustine. on the ICW. Dont shortcut that red bouy marking the outlet. I used the cheapest paint I could find on ebay. Cans were all bent, some seeping a bit. Added some cuprous oxide that a friend in the fireworks business gets. The paint weighed 2 times as much as normal and required constant agitation. I used this same tekneek 4 years ago and expect another 4 years out of it. YMMV
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Old 02-14-2016, 08:35 AM   #23
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OK, since someone mentioned it, If the original bottom paint was put on incorrectly (barrier coat, then direct ablative) what can I do (short of blasting and re barrier coating then epoxy, then ablative) to help bottom paint stick to the hull?\


I hate to grind off down to the barrier coat. I really dont want to get into the barrier coat. But I would like bottom paint that sticks too.
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Old 02-14-2016, 09:08 AM   #24
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If the boat is going to spend any time out of the water, you need to use an ablative paint. Hard paints (like the aforementioned Trinidad) cannot withstand prolonged periods exposed to air. The 60 day number refers to the time Trinidad can be out after painting. Once the boat has been splashed, the allowable time out of the water is measured in days, not months.
I had the boat in Florida with the Trinidad, which worked well, then moved it to Lake Erie where it was spending winters at a parking lot and summers in a water. Never repainted. The paint worked well for three seasons.
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Old 02-14-2016, 09:19 AM   #25
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Ablative to barrier is fine....

Anything over barrier can fail if not applied correctly because of the barrier curing.

The best and probably same answer for say Interlux will be..... sand to barrier, another coat of barrier then same company ablative applied within timeframe.
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Old 02-14-2016, 02:03 PM   #26
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I had the boat in Florida with the Trinidad, which worked well, then moved it to Lake Erie where it was spending winters at a parking lot and summers in a water. Never repainted. The paint worked well for three seasons.
Freshwater and saltwater = apples and oranges, fouling conditions-wise. I guarantee that had you taken the boat back to Florida after even just a few days out of the water, you'd have discovered that your paint had become ineffective.
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Old 02-14-2016, 02:11 PM   #27
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Freshwater and saltwater = apples and oranges, fouling conditions-wise. I guarantee that had you taken the boat back to Florida after even just a few days out of the water, you'd have discovered that your paint had become ineffective.
I think the original question was about painting in Florida and then doing the loop, which is mostly fresh water.
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Old 02-14-2016, 02:18 PM   #28
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I think the original question was about painting in Florida and then doing the loop, which is mostly fresh water.
You replied to my comment that prolonged exposure to air would ruin a hard anti fouling paint by saying that you did exactly that with such a product and then used it in freshwater with good results. My point is that cold freshwater fouling is so different and less aggressive than that that found in warm saltwater that you may have been able to go with no anti fouling at all and had similar results.
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Old 02-14-2016, 02:20 PM   #29
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My point is that cold freshwater fouling is so different and less aggressive than that that found in warm saltwater that you may have been able to go with no anti fouling at all and had similar results.
Yes, that was my point too. Any paint should be fine after wintering on the ground by Erie Canal.
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Old 02-14-2016, 02:25 PM   #30
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Yes, that was my point too. Any paint should be fine after wintering on the ground by Erie Canal.
Gotcha. But that doesn't mean the paint hasn't been rendered ineffective. Only that even ineffective paint will do the job in Lake Erie.
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