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Old 05-05-2014, 11:17 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LUVN LIFE View Post
Tara's, LUV'N LIFE has had the same Jabsco Diaphram pumps with filters in front for the showers going on 25 years.
Good to hear. But the OP was asking about bilge pump switches.
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Old 05-05-2014, 11:32 AM   #22
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With respect Bill, reread OP's last line.
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:10 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LUVN LIFE View Post
With respect Bill, reread OP's last line.

You mean the one where he asks about a WW switch?

"Has anyone used the Water Witch switch in a shower sump? Would all the crud contaminate the contacts rendering it ineffective?"

Or the very last line?

"Your help appreciated,"

Cause either way all I see is a question about bilge switches.
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:42 PM   #24
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Water Witch. I understand that any oil/diesel reaching the Water Witch shuts the unit off. Is this not a risk?
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Old 05-05-2014, 02:36 PM   #25
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From personal experience, I can highly recommend the Ultra Pumpswitch series of bilge pump float switches. They are more expensive than the "flopper" type, but a good bilge pump with a cheap unreliable float switch doesn't make much sense to me. These things are well designed and constructed, easy to clean and super reliable - I know of one that has been in continuous service since 2003 (I originally wrote this in 2011 and it is still going strong). The "Senior" model has a built-in hi-level alarm circuit.

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. . . . . I have mounted the float switch on top of a piece of PVC with slits cut out with a small soda stream bottle inside. The bottle floats in the PVC activating the switch leaving the switch high and dry.
I like that! It may be "agricultural" but it has an elegant simplicity.
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Old 05-05-2014, 04:47 PM   #26
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Capt Bill,
QUOTE: "Has anyone used the Water Witch switch in a shower sump? Would all the crud contaminate the contacts rendering it ineffective?"
I guess when I read shower sump I assumed the OP was referring to the below picture. I was only showing an alternative to these sumps.





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Old 05-05-2014, 08:54 PM   #27
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I have had most of my Rule flapper switches fail. I have started changing them out for Rule Automatic. Gets rid of the flapper and separate wiring entirely!

I just put a Rule 750 automatic inside my grey water tank and good results so far. see RULE INDUSTRIES Rule-Mate Fully Automatic Bilge Pumps | West Marine

I am 24v which makes pump buying a bit of a trick.
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:12 PM   #28
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I just put a Rule 750 automatic inside my grey water tank and good results so far. see RULE INDUSTRIES Rule-Mate Fully Automatic Bilge Pumps | West Marine
Wow... that product has pretty much the most negative set of online reviews I have ever seen.
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Old 05-05-2014, 10:19 PM   #29
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We`ve ploughed this field before. Last time someone suggested an air pressure switch: water enters a vertical tube, at a certain point the air above in the tube operates the switch. I think they were commercially available in the US but not here, so I bought(quite cheaply from Amazon, half local price incl freight) the Ultima, which local insurers will know, rather than what seemed a good simple system.
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Old 05-05-2014, 11:02 PM   #30
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Quote:
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Wow... that product has pretty much the most negative set of online reviews I have ever seen.
+1 to that. I gave up on those years ago. Good luck with them.
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Old 05-06-2014, 12:03 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lelievre12 View Post
I have had most of my Rule flapper switches fail. I have started changing them out for Rule Automatic. Gets rid of the flapper and separate wiring entirely!

I just put a Rule 750 automatic inside my grey water tank and good results so far. see RULE INDUSTRIES Rule-Mate Fully Automatic Bilge Pumps | West Marine

I am 24v which makes pump buying a bit of a trick.
I'll be interested to hear how you make out. The automatic pumps are the ones I've had the most trouble with.
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Old 05-06-2014, 08:09 AM   #32
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Not only are the autos infamous, for bilge use 750 GPH on a boat that size is way too small. I hope lelievre12 is only attempting them in a shower sump and not the bilges. If also bilges,S/B 2000 at a minimum with bilges that size. I used 2000's in my sumps since they also act as high water back ups., plus they really move the water out of there. 24 volt pumps and switches are readily available from a number of sources. Heck, the Hatteras has 32 volt and I had zero issues sourcing pumps and switches.
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Old 05-11-2014, 01:18 PM   #33
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I have been using the WW switches for about 12 years now. No failures. No issues. All of my centrifugal pumps would be considered "crash" pumps by most folks, as they all have 1&1/2 inch outlets and are plumbed to thru hulls that are mounted as high as practical. My "dewatering" pumps are the belt driven diaphram type. They are easily repairable and mine are all the same, 1 inch outlet pumps so I keep a complete spare and lots of parts. They are fairly expensive. The best thing about the WW switch is the over run feature, it allows the diaphram pump to run awhile after the switch has no water on it. These pumps can remove just about all of the bilge water, unlike the centrifugals which by design cannot, then you get the hose water run back also. All of my diaphram pumps pull thru perko raw water strainers to help keep the big chunks out of the pump. All of the switches are wired to a pair of 30 amp relays so the switch itself doesnt carry the pump load. I use a pair of relays for redundancy, 1 would work fine. I have not had any issues with oil stopping the float from working, even with oil in the bilge. It doesnt seam to "coat" the contacts and prevent them from working. The switch just wont turn on until it gets water on the contacts (under the oil) then it turns off when the water is not on the contacts (oil still there). The over run will cause your pump to pump the oil until it times out. Sometimes that is not desirable.
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Old 05-11-2014, 01:26 PM   #34
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"All of my diaphram pumps pull thru perko raw water strainers to help keep the big chunks out of the pump" That is a great approach I have never thought of!


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Old 05-11-2014, 04:05 PM   #35
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Bilge pump switch. After 18 hour crab trip (next day) I top up with with fuel,check engine oil, tranny, coolant,hydraulic oil , steering fluid etc.I check float switch by raising switch a few times.Perfect.I have 3 aboard, Then I heard a pump running without water in bilge and smoke coming from _uper switch..Nothing under switch but I am guilty with not using the inline fuse
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Old 05-12-2014, 06:30 AM   #36
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"All of my diaphram pumps pull thru perko raw water strainers to help keep the big chunks out of the pump" That is a great approach I have never thought of!

I have a pair of Perko 2 inch strainers (bronze ) in the for sale section , if you have big pumps.
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:35 AM   #37
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If you are looking for a switch that will last decades, trouble free, and has no wires in the bilge, and will not be kept running by crud on the sensors, and will not fail to run on rainwater. This is the one (Jabsco also makes one like it)


Groco Bilge Pump Control Kit
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Old 05-12-2014, 03:15 PM   #38
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I think this is the best trouble free solucion:
https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_i...AbsolutePage=1
and one Relais.
Important : this Johnson swich has a timer for 4 second !
With this combinatioin i have never more probleme with this parts.

i see this swich are in whitworths are very expensive, i pay in Westmarine 42.- $
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Old 05-12-2014, 08:27 PM   #39
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supertramp,Whitworths chandlery chain in Australia is not cheap. I got 2 of those from Amazon for that price, incl shipping. Good switches.
I like the Groco system, but never seen it sold here,so local insurers won`t know it, and something going wrong could mean claim troubles.
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:48 PM   #40
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I have used gems switches for many years they seem to outlast the systems they control. Years ago I was in a yard that was refitting a high-end motor yacht. They were selling lots of scrap gear. I ended up with a few boxes of reed switches. They all worked after 20 years of duty and I expect they are still working.
I have also seen a set up in a sailboat’s shower sump that I liked. They had a manual spring timer switch. You turn it when your feet got wet and it cuts off a few minutes later
Liquid Level Switches | Pressure Sensors & Switches | Flow Sensors - Gems™ Sensors & Controls
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