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Old 05-13-2016, 08:11 AM   #21
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We took the stopper off for the same issue your having. When we switched anchors which had a longer shank, the pin fit perfectly to secure the anchor while underway/storage. Maybe you can do the same.
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Old 05-13-2016, 08:40 AM   #22
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Maybe you should ask the PO, I would think he would have a system to keep the flap from engaging when releasing chain.

It could be he used that short string going from the round cotter pin to the flap. Maybe the PO twisted the cotter pin and the string kept the flap up. Or maybe he took a bight of the string across and under the end of the pin on the other side to keep the flap out of the way. I don't see any other apparent use for string ...

By jove, I think you have it! Bringing the string over the pin at the opposite side to the cotter would probably do the trick. I will try that this evening!
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Old 05-13-2016, 08:42 AM   #23
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We took the stopper off for the same issue your having. When we switched anchors which had a longer shank, the pin fit perfectly to secure the anchor while underway/storage. Maybe you can do the same.
No, too far away, see below. Plus if the stopper has a valid use while at anchor and under way I would rather retain it.

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Old 05-13-2016, 08:48 AM   #24
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You should always have to disengage some sort of anchor stopper or lock before deploying the anchor, used to keep the anchor snug and secured when under way without the windlass being involved, not to mention preventing accidental deployment if someone hits the "down" switch inadvertently (seen it happen )

I would like to see what those "paws" on the windlass look like... your picture shows pawls.. so two sets on each?

Accidental down button is why you have an electrical breaker for your windlass. When not in use the breaker is ALWAYS turned off. Guests and kids could destroy your windlass without knowing what they are switching.
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Old 05-13-2016, 08:49 AM   #25
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The short piece of string is most likely just there to keep the pin and stopper togeather when you pull the pin out and remove the stopper.

Perhaps that is all the PO did when he anchored. And then replaced it after the anchor was down.
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Old 05-13-2016, 09:00 AM   #26
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The short piece of string is most likely just there to keep the pin and stopper togeather when you pull the pin out and remove the stopper.

Perhaps that is all the PO did when he anchored. And then replaced it after the anchor was down.
Doubt it, but could be. The string is connected to the cotter pin and not the stopper pin. He would have had to take off the cotter, pull the stopper pin, put the cotter pin back on, then reverse the process when anchored.
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Old 05-13-2016, 09:21 AM   #27
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Accidental down button is why you have an electrical breaker for your windlass. When not in use the breaker is ALWAYS turned off. Guests and kids could destroy your windlass without knowing what they are switching.
Which someone needs to remember to doÖ..
Or on a charter boat, be able to find in the first place, then remember to do.
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Old 05-13-2016, 10:11 AM   #28
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Doubt it, but could be. The string is connected to the cotter pin and not the stopper pin. He would have had to take off the cotter, pull the stopper pin, put the cotter pin back on, then reverse the process when anchored.
I guess I'm not reading the picture correctly. It looks to me like the line goes through the split ring and there is no cotter pin on the other end of the retaining pin. So you would just pull the pin out by the split ring.
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Old 05-13-2016, 10:21 AM   #29
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I guess I'm not reading the picture correctly. It looks to me like the line goes through the split ring and there is no cotter pin on the other end of the retaining pin. So you would just pull the pin out by the split ring.
I see what you mean, could be. I will look later. Thing then is that the string is only keeping the three pieces together rather than keeping them to the boat - i.e. chance of going overboard during what is often a busy operation.

Will look at this again at lunch and report back.
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Old 05-13-2016, 10:53 AM   #30
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Doubt it, but could be. The string is connected to the cotter pin and not the stopper pin. He would have had to take off the cotter, pull the stopper pin, put the cotter pin back on, then reverse the process when anchored.
Capt Bill is correct.

The string is there as to not lose the pin when you remove it.
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Old 05-13-2016, 11:38 AM   #31
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Capt Bill is correct.

The string is there as to not lose the pin when you remove it.
But the way it is set up once I remove it all three pieces come away, and all can be lost. Nothing is tied to the boat anywhere.

Update soon.
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Old 05-13-2016, 12:11 PM   #32
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But the way it is set up once I remove it all three pieces come away, and all can be lost. Nothing is tied to the boat anywhere.

Update soon.
Add another piece of string.
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Old 05-13-2016, 12:12 PM   #33
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I would not do that. Why?

Because as the chain is coming up, you want those chain locks to be bouncing up and down over EACH CHAIN LINK. that way, it the anchor get stuck and you stop the windlass the tension is taken up immediate by your chain stopper.

It's how I retrieve my anchor all the time. if the anchor shows any resistance, I stop the windlass, and use the boat power to break the anchor free, then start pulling it in again.

Lastly, as Cafesport pointed out so well, I too have a little line, mine is a thin bungee cord that I put over the lock as the chain is going out. Otherwise, yes, the lock will do what it's supposed to and engage. then once I have all the chain I want out. I put my snubber on and reengage chain lock.

This also means in case I must leave ASAP, I can all alone in the pilot house by retrieving the chain as I move the boat., but if the anchor snags, the chain lock prevents damage to the windlass.
Ok, then modify the friction by just using a SS bolt or SS threaded rod with wingnuts. Set it up so tighten the wingnut locks it from moving, and loosen wingnut to let it flop up and down. when anchored tighten wingnut to keep this thing down on the chain. It may be that the housing is pretty strong, but a custom wingnut with longer wings would then work fine. Just a short piece of SS flat bar and a SS nut silver brazed on would work, or if thick enough, the SS flat bar you could tap threads.

It also seems he does not need this at all, having some kind of other chain stopper.
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Old 05-13-2016, 01:20 PM   #34
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Ok, then modify the friction by just using a SS bolt or SS threaded rod with wingnuts. Set it up so tighten the wingnut locks it from moving, and loosen wingnut to let it flop up and down. when anchored tighten wingnut to keep this thing down on the chain. It may be that the housing is pretty strong, but a custom wingnut with longer wings would then work fine. Just a short piece of SS flat bar and a SS nut silver brazed on would work, or if thick enough, the SS flat bar you could tap threads.

It also seems he does not need this at all, having some kind of other chain stopper.
No.Don't increase the friction.
That's stupid and defeats the whole purpose.

Just take the pin out and throw it overboard.
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Old 05-13-2016, 01:41 PM   #35
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Add another piece of string.
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Old 05-13-2016, 01:42 PM   #36
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No.Don't increase the friction.
That's stupid and defeats the whole purpose.

Just take the pin out and throw it overboard.
Sigh.
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Old 05-13-2016, 02:09 PM   #37
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maybe he took a bight of the string across and under the end of the pin on the other side to keep the flap out of the way. I don't see any other apparent use for string ...
Well done, mystery solved!


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Old 05-13-2016, 02:38 PM   #38
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Bingo!
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Old 05-14-2016, 06:36 AM   #39
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Not sure from the vidio but that chain stopper looks like it is mounted backwards.

And looks mighty tiny and weak to hold a boat in a blow.

The windlass just recovers the ground tackle , 1000lbs 2000lbs of strain at best.

The chain stopper holds the pull of the entire vessel while anchored in a blow.
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Old 05-14-2016, 06:49 AM   #40
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Not sure from the vidio but that chain stopper looks like it is mounted backwards.

And looks mighty tiny and weak to hold a boat in a blow.

The windlass just recovers the ground tackle , 1000lbs 2000lbs of strain at best.

The chain stopper holds the pull of the entire vessel while anchored in a blow.
I agree FF. Most lightly affixed chain stoppers on our recreational vessels are to, well, stop the chain from playing out during travel. Others also keep the chain from rising up off a vertical winch and going kerplunk to the end of the chain.

Snubbers hold the boat in a blow.
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