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Old 05-07-2016, 01:01 PM   #21
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Recently made one myself. 3/4 inch 3 strand nylon. Used 3/4 because of the weight of our boat. Started out with 60 ft. By the time I spliced eyes on bothe ends, it was about 55 feet long.Tied an overhand knot in the middle and attached a Mantus hook to the loop with shackle. At this length, we can attach the eyes in several places to reduce swinging if needed.
By the way, if you use new line, it's a lot easier to splice the eye's.
Used it a few times already and works great.
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Old 05-07-2016, 05:05 PM   #22
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I use two 50' lengths of 1/2" three-strand. I tie each one onto my chain with a rolling hitch, then lead them both through my bow chocks. Works like a charm, although I do like the looks and ease of the Mantus hook. YMMV.

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Old 05-08-2016, 07:59 AM   #23
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"3/4 inch 3 strand nylon. Used 3/4 because of the weight of our boat."

The snubber is usually used as a shock absorber to smooth the ride.


With stretch coming at about 10% of the lines breaking strength a 3/4 line would be fine in 4-8 ft waves.

Just for fun try 30 ft of 3/8nylon line set up on 40 ft of chain, and see the ride you get in most anchorages.
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Old 05-08-2016, 08:45 AM   #24
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Get a chain hook. WM sells one for 5/16" chain for $11.00. I have never had one come loose. Let enough chain out once the hook is set to maintain tension on the hook even if the wind is light.

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Me too. And more often than not, it actually does fall off as the chain comes up to the bow roller.

But like David, virtually never before.
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Old 05-10-2016, 06:51 AM   #25
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Practical Sailor discovered some hooks will reduce the chains breaking numbers.
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Old 05-10-2016, 08:42 AM   #26
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So last weekend, as I still hadn't found a store source for 35' 5/8 three braid nylon rope with thimbled eyes, I went with temporary fix. I bought a stainless shackle that was big enough to take two of my dock lines. I then tied those on with two half-hitches each (Clove hitch), and cleated the bitter ends.

Looks horrible, and as you can see is "lumpy" enough that it can grab stuff. I would also like to have another five feet of line as when the boat pulled the knot lifted out of the water altogether and straightened the chain somewhat.

But it worked.

Will need to order the rope and Mantus on-line.
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:46 AM   #27
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"Looks horrible, and as you can see is "lumpy" enough that it can grab stuff. I would also like to have another five feet of line as when the boat pulled the knot lifted out of the water altogether and straightened the chain somewhat.

But it worked."

It might look horrible but testing it to get the lengths right is the smart way to do it. You will only have to make up one bridle
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Old 05-10-2016, 10:11 AM   #28
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We had Parks at Hopkins-Carter (active member here) make one that is 100% to our spec and it is great. Not expensive either. He does the braiding himself (probably while he watches Grey's Anatomy) and really did a fine job. He gave us options, sent pictures, and was very helpful in helping us get what we wanted.
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Old 05-10-2016, 11:00 AM   #29
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We had Parks at Hopkins-Carter (active member here) make one that is 100% to our spec and it is great. Not expensive either. He does the braiding himself (probably while he watches Grey's Anatomy) and really did a fine job. He gave us options, sent pictures, and was very helpful in helping us get what we wanted.
This sounds like a great option for you Menzies. You can get exactly what you want at a reasonable price and not have to splice anything.

BTW, it would be interesting to see how you felt about your stop gap measure if you did without the shackle and simply used rolling hitches to attach your lines to the chain.
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Old 05-10-2016, 11:19 AM   #30
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We had Parks at Hopkins-Carter (active member here) make one that is 100% to our spec and it is great.
I was going to suggest going to Parks.
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Old 05-10-2016, 12:49 PM   #31
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This was easy to put together after some internet advice. Has done a nice job so far and is a breeze to take on and off.
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Old 05-10-2016, 01:19 PM   #32
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I think I will go without the loops and stay with bitter ends on mine.
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Old 05-10-2016, 01:58 PM   #33
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Sampson sells a great ring bound manual on splicing. Purchase a good set of fids and a rigging knife. You can get a marlin spike or get a rigging knife with a marlin spike on it. I use a Davis Instruments rigging knife with a marlin spike on it. I'm not splicing 3 inch line, so it works just fine.

This will allow you to do 3 strand, or anything else. 12 strand hollow-core (dyneema), 8 strand plait, etc. splice in loop ends or eye splices wherever you want.

Nothing better than sitting on the back in a nice anchorage drinking a cocktail and splicing lines with a little music in the background.
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Old 05-10-2016, 03:17 PM   #34
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This was easy to put together after some internet advice. Has done a nice job so far and is a breeze to take on and off.
Dave, I can't quite tell from the pictures what you did there. I can see you have a spliced loop on either end, an eye with a thimble in the middle and the center part of the line is wrapped around a rubber snubber but I can't tell how you spliced or incorporated that eye in the middle?
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Old 05-10-2016, 04:49 PM   #35
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I think I will go without the loops and stay with bitter ends on mine.
In hind sight I would agree. No loops would allow more flexibility with the length. Luckily I designed mine his right so the Mantas hook is below the water at slack.
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Old 05-10-2016, 05:19 PM   #36
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We had Parks at Hopkins-Carter (active member here) make one that is 100% to our spec and it is great. Not expensive either. He does the braiding himself (probably while he watches Grey's Anatomy) and really did a fine job. He gave us options, sent pictures, and was very helpful in helping us get what we wanted.
Tom, I'm sure Parks is a great guy, but ACE or Crystal Coast Cordage in Morehead do that kind of custom rigging all the time at very good prices and high quality. Just an FYI for future needs, be it dock lines or whatever.
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Old 05-10-2016, 05:24 PM   #37
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I think I will go without the loops and stay with bitter ends on mine.
Worked for me. I varied the length I used depending on whim and conditions (more length when things might get gnarly). In going either route, make sure the boat end has plenty of chafing gear, be it adjustable or permanent. Given the stretch and horsing around that takes place in poor conditions, you can grind those suckers down pronto. I liked the "velcro on" stuff; when it wore out it was easy to replace, and allowed a variety of lengths.

Another very important use of these rigs I would like to remind everyone of is when having to break out a stubborn anchor, so that's a short length; not that Dave's good looking rig won't do that handsomely as well.
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Old 05-10-2016, 05:33 PM   #38
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Dave, I can't quite tell from the pictures what you did there. I can see you have a spliced loop on either end, an eye with a thimble in the middle and the center part of the line is wrapped around a rubber snubber but I can't tell how you spliced or incorporated that eye in the middle?
Its made of two lengths of line. The first one is longer, has a spliced eye on one end, is wrapped around the rubber snubber and then has a thimble eye on the end to attach the hook. The second length is shorter. It has the spliced eye on one end and then is spliced into the longer length to create the "V"
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Old 05-10-2016, 05:50 PM   #39
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Its made of two lengths of line. The first one is longer, has a spliced eye on one end, is wrapped around the rubber snubber and then has a thimble eye on the end to attach the hook. The second length is shorter. It has the spliced eye on one end and then is spliced into the longer length to create the "V"
Thanks Dave, that makes perfect sense.
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:24 PM   #40
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Thanks Dave, that makes perfect sense.
Dave ...so I get this right. One side of the bridle wraps around the snubber then connects to the hook. The other side just connects directly to the hook to form the V.
If so...why only one side "snubbed"?
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