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Old 11-17-2015, 06:14 PM   #1
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are all exhaust hose brands created equal?

The guy that surveyed my 135 hp Fords said I needed to replace both the 3.5" exhaust hoses. I think I'm going to need 42' of this stuff. Can I just go to NAPA and grab some hose, or do I need a special marine exhaust hose?
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Old 11-17-2015, 06:46 PM   #2
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Nope, you want to get something labeled Marine Exhaust hose. Unless you are self insured that is. And feeling lucky. The good news is most NAPAs along the coast can get it for you at good prices. Still, expensive stuff. My Hatteras maybe has 10 feet in total, sounds like weird design of you need 42.
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Old 11-17-2015, 09:07 PM   #3
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Trident is a good brand name for hose. I'm with George, forty two feet sounds like a lot.
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Old 11-17-2015, 09:34 PM   #4
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I'd get a second opinion unless the reason is very obvious as to why they needed replacing.
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Old 11-17-2015, 11:45 PM   #5
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If you do need to replace then you can use fiberglass tubing for long straight sections after your water injection. Slope down towards the stern. You should then only need a couple of short sections of expensive hose.
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Old 11-18-2015, 06:03 AM   #6
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If you do need to replace then you can use fiberglass tubing for long straight sections after your water injection. Slope down towards the stern. You should then only need a couple of short sections of expensive hose.
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Old 11-18-2015, 06:22 AM   #7
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Old 11-18-2015, 06:27 AM   #8
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Old 11-18-2015, 07:54 AM   #9
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If you do need to replace then you can use fiberglass tubing for long straight sections after your water injection. Slope down towards the stern. You should then only need a couple of short sections of expensive hose.
The fiberglass tubing and whatever you glue it together (if needed) with also need to be exhaust rated. I went through all this when I had to replace the tubes going into the mufflers due to some PO over-tightening the hose clamps. Speaking of which, be sure to get some "crush rings" for the ends of the tubing so you don't end up with the same issue.

Might be worth consulting with one of the exhaust specialists like D'Angelo or Marine Exhaust Systems, who can also sell you the parts.

This is a system that can sink your boat or burn it down. And the hose does age which is likely why the surveyor marked it.
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Old 11-18-2015, 07:55 AM   #10
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If you do need to replace then you can use fiberglass tubing for long straight sections after your water injection. Slope down towards the stern. You should then only need a couple of short sections of expensive hose.
An interesting idea. I'll check to see if that is an option in my boat. Thanks.
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Old 11-18-2015, 08:26 AM   #11
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The fiberglass tubing and whatever you glue it together (if needed) with also need to be exhaust rated. I went through all this when I had to replace the tubes going into the mufflers due to some PO over-tightening the hose clamps. Speaking of which, be sure to get some "crush rings" for the ends of the tubing so you don't end up with the same issue.

Might be worth consulting with one of the exhaust specialists like D'Angelo or Marine Exhaust Systems, who can also sell you the parts.

This is a system that can sink your boat or burn it down. And the hose does age which is likely why the surveyor marked it.

Yikes. Now I wonder if I tightened things too much at the muffler when I replaced my exhaust hose. Didn't know about a crush ring.
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Old 11-18-2015, 10:06 AM   #12
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Yikes. Now I wonder if I tightened things too much at the muffler when I replaced my exhaust hose. Didn't know about a crush ring.
Nice but not absolutely necessary.

Depends on the ability to get a good seal without more than snuggling up the hose clamp.

If the fiberglass tube is nicely finished a good, leak free might be easy. Especially with smaller tubes.

Larger tubes can have some pretty lumpy finishing.
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Old 11-18-2015, 08:40 PM   #13
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You might also try Harbor Marine in Everett. All the parts are on the shelf and you can look before you buy.
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Old 11-19-2015, 08:04 AM   #14
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Yikes. Now I wonder if I tightened things too much at the muffler when I replaced my exhaust hose. Didn't know about a crush ring.
It should just be hand tight. You could loosen it a bit and see if you get any water seeps or exterior blackening.It can take time for the damage to be done. Did you use any properly rated sealant? That helps too. What type of clamps?
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Old 11-19-2015, 08:17 AM   #15
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are all exhaust hose brands created equal?

I didn't use any sealant. Used a t-bolt hose clamp like this. There was no crush sleeve or sealant evident when I removed the old hose so that's why I didn't think I needed either.

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Old 11-19-2015, 08:40 AM   #16
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If you are considering the Fiberglass route then check out VERNATUBE. This material is rated for exhaust and extremely uniform in dimension. You "should" use stainless crush sleeves when transitioning from VT to hose and clamp.

Either way, hose or tube for exhaust is going to be pricey.
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Old 11-19-2015, 09:29 AM   #17
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I didn't use any sealant. Used a t-bolt hose clamp like this.

Attachment 46698
Don't worry, you'll most likely survive just fine without sealant or crush sleeves. Most exhausts are put together without either.

You can always add them at a later date.
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Old 11-19-2015, 10:59 AM   #18
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Yeah, just back off that thing a tad if you think you overtightened. I just speak from experience, that's all...

In the second pic, to the left of the flange is where the tube went inside the muffler. I ended up replacing both of mine. I ended up being the "later date" guy....



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Old 11-19-2015, 01:48 PM   #19
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Ok. Thanks.
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Old 11-24-2015, 05:11 PM   #20
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Interesting, have never heard or, or seen, these crush sleeves you speak of. Might have to retrofit mine if I have to pull it apart again.

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