12v water makers

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Wxx3

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Kadey Krogen 42 - 148
Hi All,

I just returned from boat show and am still trying to decide on one of the last components.

I am almost sure I will get a 12v water maker system versus 120v because:
1. I want to make water while running, and
2. I don't want to run gen just to make water.

Data to consider, my average cruising style seems to be running, anywhere from 3 to 8 hours, half the days of the month.
Iow, cruise to a spot, anchor for two nights, move again.

I just spent $2400 to eliminate 120v fridge & freezer, so I'm not inclined to add a 120v system back.

Finally, my question.
1. Anyone out there have our had a 12v system?
2. Were you happy with it?
 
Will you be able to make water with the water in your cruising area?

Is the quality good enough to not kill the membranes?

I ask as I have been informed that much of the coastline (ICW) is not clean enough.
 
We've made water all along the Atlantic ICW all the way to Maine. Worst thing will be having to replace the pre filters more often if there is a lot of sediment in the water. Also be sure to have an output flow meter and adjustable back pressure regulator so you can compensate for varying salinity.

Bob
 
A 12 volt system works for us at anchor I am able to make water for a hour or 90 minutes off battery power and then run the generator to recharge and finish the two hour water making.

When underway I don't need the generator at all.
 
We've made water all along the Atlantic ICW all the way to Maine. Worst thing will be having to replace the pre filters more often if there is a lot of sediment in the water. Also be sure to have an output flow meter and adjustable back pressure regulator so you can compensate for varying salinity.

Bob

Yes, Thanks Bob,

It's basically between the 120 volt system of Watermakers, Inc, the ISL400 (which only comes in 120v)

Or

The SeaMaker 40 (pretty much the same as above)

OR

The Only 12v system I have found, the

Katadyn PowerSurvivor 160E/12 V, 6 gal/hr or the 80E.


O
Costs of all three systems are roughly the same, about $5500


Anyone have any experience with the Katadyn?
 
I believe Ksanders has a Kadadyn unit and has been very happy, I'm sure he'll chime in. We were also looking at the Water Makers Inc, but for the price I would also take a look at Quality Water Works so far I've heard only good about them. Since you can get a 1000GPD with auto flush and diverter for the same price. they also make engine driven units.
 
The Katadyn 160 draws 18 amps to make 6.7 gallons. Spectra's V200 draws 10 amps and makes 8.3 gallons per hour.

If you are considering AC, look at Cruise RO. Their 20 gallon per hour is $3,800.

WaterMakers
 
I have the katadyne 160 GDP model.

It is a very simple, no frills, no hassle watermaker.

The only thing I added to it was a pass through flow meter to check the output quantity.

If your cruising plans include travels out of the USA, consider that katadyne is I believe the worlds largest manufacturer of water makers, with international representation for parts support.

There are more efficient water makers out there, and there are fancier water makers. I chose katadyne because of its simplicity, and it's parts availability, and it's compact footprint.

I don't think 12v or 120v matters much. Most boats have a large inverter now days anyway. I did consider a much larger unit, and had one that was available pre-owned for a song, but it was way too large in physical size. I just didn't see the need.

If we use 50 gallons a day, that's 7 hours of watermaker time a day.
 
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I built a 20 gph unit for $3000. It was AC powered and had all the bells and whistles. It's not rocket science and all the parts were off the shelf.

Bob
 
I'm struggling with this too. My boat has very limited water tank capacity, and on some trips it became an issue. Would love to be able to make water. Would love to make ice too, but that is another topic!

The problem is these things seem to be a mix of expensive/unreliable/noisy/slow/power hungry. Pick your poison!!

On a couple of deliveries where I crewed, I ended up baby sitting the watermaker more than doing anything else!! Adjusting this or that, cleaning/changing filters, troubleshooting, leaks, etc. Going to port, waiting on parts. Stupid thing still doesn't work, so back to sea, tanks topped, salt showers for all.

I don't want to spend the money and time fitting a machine if I am back in that miserable routine.

So I'm going to read and read and see what comes up on threads like this.

Dilemma, indeed.

Wanted: Simple box: sea water in, power in. Brine out, fresh water out.
 
Richard, there is a company across the street from my store that sells and installs watermakers. You might want to walk over and talk to them. I'm suffering from CRS right now and can't remember their name. Ask Jonathan, he's still young and remembers things.
 
Wanted: Simple box: sea water in, power in. Brine out, fresh water out.

Katadyne

Nothing to adjust.

Nothing to fiddle with.

Nothing to monitor.

It just makes water.
 
Thanks Guys,

I too have had my senior moments, since I was young, and realized that I had gone thru this process this summer.

So in reviewing everything again, I'm back to where I forgot i was, at Quality Water Works. They are the only folks who seem to have a 40 gal.hr 12v system for less than $4000.

They are in North Carolina, so that is an a plus also.

Anyone know them??
 
...at Quality Water Works. They are the only folks who seem to have a 40 gal.hr 12v system for less than $4000. Anyone know them??

A 12 VDC 40 GPH water maker? Do you mean a 120 VAC system? Spectra does make a DC system that size but so goes the price tag. :)
 
A 12 VDC 40 GPH water maker? Do you mean a 120 VAC system? Spectra does make a DC system that size but so goes the price tag. :)

:nonono:

12 volts, uses 45 amps. But that works for me, since it means I can run it whenever I run the engine.

Now the Kataydn uses 1/3 as much, but it also costs almost double and at this time, that is a big issue.

The others I have look at, Spectra, Village Water, are expensive in varying degrees and have proprietary parts and/or electronics.
 
What about engine driven? The boost (raw water feed) is DC but the thing that makes the pressure runs via an electric clutch direct from your main engine.
if an option the things to remember are - what the RPM is at cruise; you can over RPM the pump (bad). Decide your RPM and then size the pully to suit. GP Pumps in the US are fantastic and will be able to assist.
As others have said the items are off the shelf and easy to put together (with Googles assistance!) but all you need is the boost pump, HP pump, membrane (HP pump spec to suit the amount of them you want / production volume) and a means of controlling the pressure (Back pressure valve) - the rest is plumbing.

DT
Hi All,

I just returned from boat show and am still trying to decide on one of the last components.

I am almost sure I will get a 12v water maker system versus 120v because:
1. I want to make water while running, and
2. I don't want to run gen just to make water.

Data to consider, my average cruising style seems to be running, anywhere from 3 to 8 hours, half the days of the month.
Iow, cruise to a spot, anchor for two nights, move again.

I just spent $2400 to eliminate 120v fridge & freezer, so I'm not inclined to add a 120v system back.

Finally, my question.
1. Anyone out there have our had a 12v system?
2. Were you happy with it?
 
ummm, I have dismissed that idea early in the process, but maybe too early.:facepalm:

i am already adding a second alternator to the engine, so the question is, where would I mount this pump?:confused:

i may even risk the wrath of Brian at AD and give him a call tomorrow.:eek:

Thanks, though it still seems the most viable option for me, I am not thrilled about using 45 amps to produce 8 gal of water an hour. :eek::eek:(on the other hand, I have already eliminated 20 amps per hour with the new fridge/freezer, so maybe my alternator will need something to do??):thumb:

I may have to put on my thinking cap tonight.:hide:
 
45a for WM and 20a for fridge is a lot of amps for an alt on a slow turning engine. But that can be managed by shedding loads while making water. I'm not a fan of adding aux drives on the front of the engine such as WM pump, that can be a mess. Elec drive may be sub optimal in some regards, but way simpler.
 
On the hook you will be running the noisemaker to recharge the batt set.

An AC unit can be far more powerful than the DC units for the lowest noisemaker ON time. AC motors have longer service life , and are cheaper to replace.

Underway an inverter will operate a good sized water maker , so there is no downside to the more powerful AC unit.

AC vs DC is not a religion , the tool that works BEST (you decide BEST) would be the most useful.

To me best is least expense in terms of , lowest operating hassle and cost .
 

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