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Old 10-19-2014, 12:32 PM   #21
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Kudos to Patemey for the ingenious idea for making big holes out of little holes. Kudos also to Janice 142 for suggesting that I buy a cigarette lighter adapter USB charger and forget drilling a bigger hole in my boat.

Both are great ideas but rather than spending more money than the plug cost on hole saws and mandrills, I am going to Walmart and buying the $2.97 version that also has two power outputs.

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Old 10-19-2014, 03:48 PM   #22
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The Walmart plug is only available online and would take a several days in transit so I ordered this one for $11.99 from Amazon Prime for Tuesday delivery. Even though I like the flush mounted Blue Sea plug better, I am returning it tomorrow.

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Old 10-19-2014, 04:20 PM   #23
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10 Minute Boat Project

Ha, this reminds me of a time when we were in the islands and the sump box decided to stop working. 10 minutes I said, 4 hours later.
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Old 10-19-2014, 04:37 PM   #24
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I do like the USB cig adapter!
The only 10 minute project I can remember is changing cabin bulbs over to LED replacements.
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Old 10-19-2014, 05:27 PM   #25
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I think the two saw idea is great but you will probably need to add a washer to make the smaller saw stand higher than the big one.
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Old 10-19-2014, 07:43 PM   #26
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Use a hole saw

Quote:
Originally Posted by seasalt007 View Post
Janice 142,

No, now would not be a good time to let me know since I own the one pictured above. I have two 12 volt plugs on the bridge...one two prong Perko and one cigarette lighter plug. All my Q Beam spot lights fit the cigarette lighter plug. I don't own anything that has a two pronged end that would work on the Perko so I wanted to get rid of it. Little did I know that the hole would have to be enlarged.

On that subject, I don't have the right Dremel tool (Harbor Freight version) to do this but I do have some assorted grinder bits for my old Makita battery drill. The only worry that I have using these bits is chipping the gelcoat. Any ideas on how to be really careful?
Grab apiece of scrap plywood that you can clamp or hold firmly over the existing hole. Using a hole saw the proper size for your new outlet , drill a hole in the plywood with the hole saw. To drill the new hole for your outlet, remove the pilot drill from the hole saw and use the drilled hole in the plywood scrap for a guide for the hole saw as you drill the new outlet hole. it would be nice if you could clamp the plywood hole guide in place, but a couple of spare hands will work. If you can clamp the plywood scrap you'll find very little chipping on the rim of the new hole.
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:15 PM   #27
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Taping the surface reduces chipping to regardless of new hole or enlarging an old one. My favorite trick is using old, well worn hole saws for cutting into a finish such as fiberglass. Worn out teeth are not near as "grabby" and prone to chipping. Scary's idea for a template is one I've used with good results before.
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:18 PM   #28
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Taping the surface reduces chipping to regardless of new hole or enlarging an old one. My favorite trick is using old, well worn hole saws for cutting into a finish such as fiberglass. Worn out teeth are not near as "grabby" and prone to chipping. Scary's idea for a template is one I've used with good results before.

You can also run the teeth backwards to wear through the gel first before forward into the laminates.
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:21 PM   #29
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You can also run the teeth backwards to wear through the gel first before forward into the laminates.


That works well too but as I cannot seem to throw any tool blade or bit away it's nice to find ways to justify keeping them
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:48 PM   #30
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I've inserted wooden plugs into existing holes just tight enough to jam in there fairly tight. Then start drilling the larger hole size running the hole saw backwards. Bonus is you can center the hole differently with this technique too. This is how I did it when installing a new helm on my 16' Glasply runabout, as I previously posted on the Glasply forum:


Here's the original hole from the Morse steering setup (with a wooden block I jammed in there):




That hole is 2.25" in diameter, but the ROTECH setup requires a 3.25" hole. It also takes three mounting bolts in different positions than the existing three. So what I did was I cut that block of wood and jammed it into the old hole so my hole saw had something for the mandrel bit to go through.




I stopped after I'd cut through the fiberglass covering the plywood dash to take that picture. I wanted the new wheel to be slightly inboard (to better align with the seat--still not perfect, but closer) and a bit higher than the old one.

Worked like a charm. Here's the hole with a hole:

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Old 10-20-2014, 12:01 AM   #31
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Needed a new tension finger spring on the windlass. One spring, $10, one hex head screw. Ten minutes. Well, screw is bent, might as well order and change that too. Well, might was well replace the anchor rode because the old rode (rope portion) is too stiff, won't feed and lie well. Well, might as well take the windlass off and replace the warped base panel (starboard). Well, with all that off, might as well take off the bow pulpit because it's cracked and warped and lets rainwater run under the pulpit and down the anchor locker into the bilge. Need a fiberglass guy to straighten and reglass the whole pulpit. Need new bronze bolts and nuts and lock washers and flat washers to remount the pulpit. Might as well replace all the hardware to the bow strut under the pulpit. Need to reglass the area of the bow under the pulpit that the previous owner had turned into swiss cheese, so it doesn't rot someday, and so the hawse pipe hole is smooth and sealed. Rewire the windlass. Re-braid the new rope to the anchor chain.

Ten minutes, $10 spring = one month and about $900.
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Old 10-20-2014, 01:49 AM   #32
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The Walmart plug is only available online and would take a several days in transit so I ordered this one for $11.99 from Amazon Prime for Tuesday delivery. Even though I like the flush mounted Blue Sea plug better, I am returning it tomorrow.

Watch the amps on those 12V adapter plugs. I have several on the boat, but the first ones I bought are two 1A USB ports. Many of the newer devices require 2A charging. Some double adapters are 1A and 2A, but if two devices are plugged in, each just gets 1A.

They are handy, though. I bought several from Meritline.com on sale for a couple of bucks.
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Old 10-20-2014, 01:54 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kthoennes View Post
Needed a new tension finger spring on the windlass. One spring, $10, one hex head screw. Ten minutes. Well, screw is bent, might as well order and change that too. Well, might was well replace the anchor rode because the old rode (rope portion) is too stiff, won't feed and lie well. Well, might as well take the windlass off and replace the warped base panel (starboard). Well, with all that off, might as well take off the bow pulpit because it's cracked and warped and lets rainwater run under the pulpit and down the anchor locker into the bilge. Need a fiberglass guy to straighten and reglass the whole pulpit. Need new bronze bolts and nuts and lock washers and flat washers to remount the pulpit. Might as well replace all the hardware to the bow strut under the pulpit. Need to reglass the area of the bow under the pulpit that the previous owner had turned into swiss cheese, so it doesn't rot someday, and so the hawse pipe hole is smooth and sealed. Rewire the windlass. Re-braid the new rope to the anchor chain.

Ten minutes, $10 spring = one month and about $900.
Now that there is funny and so typical! Having installed my current windlass/washdown and customizing the pulpit, I can really appreciate the steps you went through.

I have a new (free!!) upgraded Lewmar rode guard and new heavy duty spring sitting onboard, still in the packaging, ready to install. I think I'll wait until December-January to start that one!
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:19 AM   #34
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I really like Binford's idea. In fact you could drill a 3/4" hole in a any piece of wood and glue or jam it into the existing 3/4" hole and then drill the bigger one. Cool.
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Old 10-20-2014, 07:28 PM   #35
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Not to hijack the how to drill a hole thread, I'll add my findings on the Blue Sea USB chargers. Last winter I added two of these chargers while updating the electronics on our boat, one at each helm. Last week we moved the boat 500 miles to Lake Barkley for the winter and found something pretty interesting along the way. Every time I plugged in my iPhone to charge it on the flybridge the AIS targets on my chart plotter would disappear one by one...unplug it and slowly they came back??

Not sure if this has anything to do with the charger or the phone but it's something to be aware of. The plotter is a good 3 feet away from the charger and on a different circuit so I don't know what else to do other than not charging the phone underway (which was the whole reason to install it )
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Old 10-20-2014, 07:35 PM   #36
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Not to hijack the how to drill a hole thread, I'll add my findings on the Blue Sea USB chargers. Last winter I added two of these chargers while updating the electronics on our boat, one at each helm. Last week we moved the boat 500 miles to Lake Barkley for the winter and found something pretty interesting along the way. Every time I plugged in my iPhone to charge it on the flybridge the AIS targets on my chart plotter would disappear one by one...unplug it and slowly they came back??

Not sure if this has anything to do with the charger or the phone but it's something to be aware of. The plotter is a good 3 feet away from the charger and on a different circuit so I don't know what else to do other than not charging the phone underway (which was the whole reason to install it )
Sounds like a grounding problem.
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Old 10-20-2014, 08:21 PM   #37
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Quote:
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Not to hijack the how to drill a hole thread, I'll add my findings on the Blue Sea USB chargers. Last winter I added two of these chargers while updating the electronics on our boat, one at each helm. Last week we moved the boat 500 miles to Lake Barkley for the winter and found something pretty interesting along the way. Every time I plugged in my iPhone to charge it on the flybridge the AIS targets on my chart plotter would disappear one by one...unplug it and slowly they came back??

Not sure if this has anything to do with the charger or the phone but it's something to be aware of. The plotter is a good 3 feet away from the charger and on a different circuit so I don't know what else to do other than not charging the phone underway (which was the whole reason to install it )
If you can borrow a handheld VHF, put on channels 87A and 88A, and see if there is a lot of noise coming from the USB ports. I would bet there is.
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:29 PM   #38
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Watch the amps on those 12V adapter plugs. I have several on the boat, but the first ones I bought are two 1A USB ports. Many of the newer devices require 2A charging. Some double adapters are 1A and 2A, but if two devices are plugged in, each just gets 1A.

They are handy, though. I bought several from Meritline.com on sale for a couple of bucks.
I work at Cisco here in RTP and meeting organizers give those things away like candy. I have at least a dozen along with 5 or 6 of those "emergency" batteries that have USB plugs on them in my desk drawer. Swag flows freely here.
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Old 10-21-2014, 08:55 PM   #39
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Thanks Ksanders. Good advice. I was wondering how to go about it without it looking like "I did it" like the rest of my projects.
Ditto
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Old 10-22-2014, 01:59 AM   #40
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After trying to install the 12vdc USB charger only to find it bad out of the box, I decided to count the number of USB devices I needed to charge. After reaching 4, I am going to install a 12vdc powered USB hub as a charging station. When their are guests on board, everybody gets a port.

Don't need to cut a hole.

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