Review my Charter Plans?

[BDofMSP]

Forum,
I've spent the past couple of years chartering and receiving professional training (in addition to regular cruising) to strengthen my knowledge and experience. In the process we've inspired a couple of friends, and they have gotten some training and have gotten a taste of cruising the San Juan’s as well. It is now time to take things to the next level – twin engines and a bigger boat. At the beginning of June we (and our friends) will be taking two more days of professional training focused on twin engine boat handling and general cruising skills. At the conclusion we will take over a charter of a 39’ Californian cruiser for an additional 8 days.

This trip is definitely more of a learning opportunity than a vacation for us. We want to maximize our exposure to various conditions, skills, challenges, and rewards. As such we are planning a fairly ambitious schedule with the understanding that conditions may cause us to change or scale back our plans. With that in mind, I thought I’d run our itinerary past the group for feedback / advice.

Since we have training first, we start our trip in Friday Harbor (eventually returning to Anacortes). Here are our 8 days:

• Friday Harbor to Nanaimo
• Nanaimo to Pender Harbor
• Jervis Inlet, Princess Louisa Inlet (2 days)
• Princess Louisa to Secret Cove
• Secret Cove to Ganges
• Ganges to Roche Harbor
• Roche Harbor to Anacortes

The boat has an 18 knot cruise, so while we don’t intend to do that often, we should be able to cover distance if required. I’d love to hear from anyone that has any feedback or suggestions for the trip in general. Of course if you have suggestions for things to see / do / eat along this route, I’d love to hear those too!
Thanks,
BD

 

[Boydski]

Are you taking Harmony out for your cruise? I did that many, many moons ago! You should have a lot of fun. I think I cruised her mostly at about 8 knots and only throttled up to avoid traffic.

Weather and tides always plays a big role in when and where you can go and may restrict when you can cross the Staights of Georgia.

 

[BDofMSP]

We inquired about Harmony but could not get dates to align with our schedule. We are chartering "Pane e Vino" through Anacortes Yacht Charters.

Definitely the Straits are our biggest concern. We are very concerned about our safety, and aware of our relative lack of experience, especially in these waters. I'm not exactly sure yet how we will judge what is "safe".

 

[Marin]

Personally, I wouldn't bother with Princess Louisa. It's a beautiful spot, no question although it's no great shakes compared to what's farther north in BC and SE Alaska. I' ve been in there lots of times in the floatplane. But it's a long slog up a pretty boring inlet to get there. Even in the Beaver at 110 mph, it seems to take forever.

The place is always crowded in the summer and it can be a real problem getting a place to moor up.

If it was me, I'd spend the two days exploring the Sunshine Coast if you want to go over there. Places like Smugglers Cove, for example (which is more remote than Secret Cove up the coast), and Bucaneer Bay and so on.

The potential problem with including both the Vancouver Island side and mainland side is the need to cross Georgia Strait twice. This is no big deal at all under normal circumstances but the weather can kick up out there and if it's too rough to go over, or worse, come back, it can play havoc with a tight schedule.

Which is why when we take a longer cruise (or take a longer trip in the plane) we allow twice the time we've scheduled for just these kinds of delays.

There are lots of cool places to go in the Gulf Islands if you've never spent any time there, and unless there is a downright nasty storm, the cruising is always pretty protected in them.

With only eight days we would not even bother crossing the Strait to the mainland side but spend the time in the Gulf Islands. If we were bound and determined to cross the Strait then we'd run all the way up to the bottom end of Desolation Sound to places like Grace Harbor and Prideaux Haven. Particularly with a faster boat like the one you'll have.

I know lots of people think Princess Louisa is just the most fabulous place on the planet, but we don't really see the magic in it, and given the amount of time it takes to get there we don't think it's worth it. Perhaps the slog in and out would be more tolerable at 18 knots. Of course we've been there a bunch of times, so perhaps the appeal is different to someone who's never been there at all.

Some of the places we like in the Gulf Islands are Genoa Bay, Maple Bay, Cowichan Bay, Telegraph Harbor, Nanaimo (City Harbor), Silva Bay, Wallace Island, Winter Cove, Montague, Ganges, Sidney Spit, Prevost Island (Genthorne Passage, James Bay, Selby Cove, Annette Inlet), Port Browning, and Cabbage Cove.

 

[Marin]

One additional comment on the Strait of Georgia.... When it's nice it's like crossing a lake. When it's being kicked up by winds, it becomes an endless journey. Because when you cross over, you are going beam-on or at best quartering into the waves. Our boat can take a lot more than we can, but it's simply not enjoyable being out there when the Strait's in a bad mood.

One thing we learned years ago that if one can cross early in the morning, the chances of a smooth or at least smooth-ish crossing are much greater than crossing later in the day when the winds come up.

We always cross over to the mainland side starting at Silva Bay on Gabriola Island. Our course from Silva Bay to Merry Island puts us south of the Whiskey Golf torpedo test range. While that range isn't as active today as it used to be, using Silva Bay as the jump-off and return spot eliminates the need to screw up one's schedule or plans due to Whiskey Golf being active.

Also, Silva Bay is a real nice place to visit in and of itself.

Photo is us heading south on Georgia Strait when she was in a good mood. In this case, we crossed over to the Vancouver Island side up north from Rebecca Spit on Quadra Island. We then ran down to Comox, and then two days later continued down to Nanaimo. The line of moutains on the horizon is the Coast Range over on the mainland.

 

[FlyWright]

Don't know about your itinerary, but I have loved the boat for years! Never cruised or stepped foot on her, but it looks like she's got everything I'd want in my next boat.

Charter detail for Harmony

To me, she looks like a Navigator mini me. Great lines, sedan style with a turn of speed and all the amenities. No mistaking the fact that she's a Jule Marshall offspring. I'd love to hear from folks who have chartered this boat. What's your impression?

 

[BoatKid]

If you are interested in books, there is a place in Friday Harbor called the Serendipity Used Book store. Even if you aren't interested in buying a book, the man who runs the store is very knowledgeable. The building is an old house filled to the ceilings with books. The selection is great and the books are quite cheap.

https://plus.google.com/101639034983441828716/about?hl=en

 

[Crusty Chief]

BD-

Pretty aggressive plans for a week, doable but tight. As noted by others, if the weather is nice great, but if not, be prepared to modify your plans.
AYC is great to work with...we have several times and enjoyed it each time.

Have fun too...

John

 

[Nsail]

That's really a go-go schedule with not much time to take in the sights and/or relax, especially with PLI in there.

Personally PLI is worth it to me if I can stay 3 nights. And, I like the run up Jervis Inlet. It's pretty scenic (Marin, as you suggested, it does sound as though you've been there a few too many times). But I wouldn't even think about it on an 8 day cruise from Friday Harbor or Anacortes.

 

[kolive]

Wow, that is a lot of travel for 8,days. Yes, very doable, but I would encourage a slower pace with more time to explore. We love PLI but crossing the Strait is definitely weather dependent and no fun when the winds kick up. There are some many great places to muck about in the Gulf Islands, Marin covered quite a few, then there is the San Juan's to relax in and explore. Our mode of travel use to be motor one day stay one day, that has since changed to motor one stay two or three. Much nicer pace and we get more down time to unwind.

Whatever you end up doing, you are cruising in great country. We are headed to the Broughtons for 6 weeks this summer.

 

[Marin]

. I like the run up Jervis Inlet. It's pretty scenic (Marin, as you suggested, it does sound as though you've been there a few too many times). But I wouldn't even think about it on an 8 day cruise from Friday Harbor or Anacortes.

Oh, don't get me wrong. It's a beautiful place. And if our fast boat was in the PNW the run up Jervis would be no big deal. But it's not a particularly interesting run from the point of view of the scenery. The inlets farther north (Knight, etc) are far prettier.

It's a long ways to go to look at a waterfall and some big cliffs. And listen to all the yammering of the other people crowding the dock.

I know folks who've gone there over Christmas. They had the whole place to themselves, it snowed while they were there, and they were able to stay for the better part of a week. Now that would be cool and worth the drive.

But to me, Desolation Sound, the Broughtons, etc. and points north are much more worthy of the effort to get to.

In my view, if someone who's never been to Princess Louisa and really, really wanted to go there, my recommendation would be to hire a plane. Fly in , hang out, have a picnic, climb to the top of the falls, take a bunch of pictures, and at the end of the day, go home. Plus you get the added bonus of a very cool view of the place and the surrounding mountains than the folks down on the water.

But regardless of all that, trying to do Princess Louisa from a charter base in Anacortes in eight days is a risky schedule, particularly if there are other destinations in the islands one wants to visit on the same trip. Plus it's probably really more like seven days since the charter outfits generally want their boat back by mid-day or so on the last day. So you have to be within easy range of the base at the end of the second-to-last day.

 

[Nsail]

And listen to all the yammering of the other people crowding the dock.

Ha Ha! That's funny and true! That's why I've always anchored out away from the crowds.

 

[MYTraveler]

Deception Pass.

 

[Xsbank]

At that speed you'll spend all your time staring at the water to dodge rocks and logs. 8 days is perfect for a San Juan/Gulf Islands explore. Besides, the weather isn't always nice so you could get stuck. Even in good weather, the Qualicum winds on the Island side can be snarly. Sidney Spit, Winter Cove, Princess Cove...lots and lots more. Don't go past Nanaimo.

 

[BDofMSP]

The potential problem with including both the Vancouver Island side and mainland side is the need to cross Georgia Strait twice. This is no big deal at all under normal circumstances but the weather can kick up out there and if it's too rough to go over, or worse, come back, it can play havoc with a tight schedule.

Thanks for all of the valuable feedback Marin. As usual, it's thoughtful and informed.

This is one of the things that we struggled with in our planning. Again, this is really more of a "course" than a vacation, so we want to gain as much experience as we can. Crossing big open water is definitely one of those experiences. That said, doing that comes with a series of consequences that are hard to work around - like needing to come back too.

I appreciate the alternative suggestions. I'll definitely review them with the group. We're all aware that we need plans B, C, and D so this will help us work through those.

Thanks.
BD

 

[BDofMSP]

One thing we learned years ago that if one can cross early in the morning, the chances of a smooth or at least smooth-ish crossing are much greater than crossing later in the day when the winds come up.

We always cross over to the mainland side starting at Silva Bay on Gabriola Island. Our course from Silva Bay to Merry Island puts us south of the Whiskey Golf torpedo test range. While that range isn't as active today as it used to be, using Silva Bay as the jump-off and return spot eliminates the need to screw up one's schedule or plans due to Whiskey Golf being active.

Great advice, very helpful. The whole concept of a torpedo testing range has been an interesting topic of conversation for us. Something we clearly want to avoid!

I really have been hoping to get the chance to cross, but it just might not be in the cards.

 

[Xsbank]

In a Westerly and with tides, Juan De Fuca Straight, when you come out of Puget Sound and cross over to the Gulf Islands can be quite challenging too. You also did not mention Customs clearance. Factor that in too, I doubt if it's legal to make your first landfall in Nanaimo.

 

[Retriever]

It is legal to make your first landfall in Nanaimo...just as long as it is indeed your first landfall. No anchoring, mooring, docking, etc. in Canada until you clear customs, and you can clear customs in Nanaimo.

 

[Northern Spy]

We had a relatively snow free winter. Princess Louisa will be just trickle by June of this year. If that is a factor for you.

 

[BDofMSP]

It's a long ways to go to look at a waterfall and some big cliffs. And listen to all the yammering of the other people crowding the dock.

Interesting that you mention that. The culture and the experience of sharing the dock vs anchoring out alone is one of the aspects that we hope to learn about this trip. To some people the yammering is one of the draws of cruising - they love to chat and meet people. I'm not sure that I'm one of those people, but we hope to learn more about that particular experience. But it certainly doesn't need to be in that location ...

 

[BDofMSP]

In a Westerly and with tides, Juan De Fuca Straight, when you come out of Puget Sound and cross over to the Gulf Islands can be quite challenging too. You also did not mention Customs clearance. Factor that in too, I doubt if it's legal to make your first landfall in Nanaimo.

Would we hit that coming out of Friday Harbor too? I was thinking that if we came behind Speiden and Stuart it wouldn't be as bad.

We intend to clear customs at Bedwell Harbor just to make sure that we can make landfall anywhere along the route to Nanaimo.

 

[BDofMSP]

If you are interested in books, there is a place in Friday Harbor called the Serendipity Used Book store. Even if you aren't interested in buying a book, the man who runs the store is very knowledgeable. The building is an old house filled to the ceilings with books. The selection is great and the books are quite cheap.

https://plus.google.com/101639034983441828716/about?hl=en

Yes that sounds like a great place to check out! Thanks.

 

[Marin]

I really have been hoping to get the chance to cross, but it just might not be in the cards.

Other than the fact we're crossing a large body of water (for this area, anyway), crossing Georgia Strait is actually very boring in our opinions. If it's calm it's just a long slog across flat water. If it's rough it's an even longer slog across uncomfortable water. Either way it's not anything we look forward to, it's just something that has to be done. Like driving through west Texas to get to the interesting places in New Mexico.

There's nothing particularly challenging about it. You just drive in a straight line until you don't have to anymore. If we could put the boat on the ferry and spend the crossing hanging out in the lounge upstairs we'd do it.

 

[BDofMSP]

We had a relatively snow free winter. Princess Louisa will be just trickle by June of this year. If that is a factor for you.

So that is a factor actually. Not alone, but combined with all of the other great feedback that has been given here, it really makes me question whether that travel is worth it.

We spent time last year cruising the San Juan's, and while we clearly barely scratched the surface, we'd like to expand past that since we have 8 days. There have been a lot of great suggestions around places in the Gulf Islands to check out. Desolation Sound seemed to far to me, but I'll definitely look at it again for options - it seems beautiful!

We want to have a mix of remote anchoring, mooring, anchoring with neighbors, and even marina docks. We're trying to figure out what's right for us. These suggestions certainly give us plenty to look into, but if anyone has more specific anchorages or marinas that you recommend, we're appreciative of the tips!

Thanks,
BD

 

[Marin]

The places I listed in the Gulf Islands are a mix of very nice and somewhat funky marinas, marine parks with mooring buoys, and anchorages.

If you have not already done so I suggest you get one or more of the cruising guides for the Gulf Islands. We use the Douglass Guide, the Dreamspeaker Guide, Best Anchorages of the Inside Passages, the Waggoner Guide and the BC Sailing Directions.

To us the Gulf Islands make for far more enjoyable cruising than the San Juan's. Sort of like comparing Victoria, BC to LA.

 

[BDofMSP]

Other than the fact we're crossing a large body of water (for this area, anyway), crossing Georgia Strait is actually very boring in our opinions. If it's calm it's just a long slog across flat water. If it's rough it's an even longer slog across uncomfortable water. Either way it's not anything we look forward to, it's just something that has to be done. Like driving through west Texas to get to the interesting places in New Mexico.

There's nothing particularly challenging about it. You just drive in a straight line until you don't have to anymore. If we could put the boat on the ferry and spend the crossing hanging out in the lounge upstairs we'd do it.

It reminds me of folks here in MN that like wilderness canoeing. People come from all over the country to canoe in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness here. But I know people from here who wouldn't dream of canoeing there - they need to get up to Canada before they get "real" wilderness. BWCAW is just too familiar to them.

I think my fixation on it is driven by the fact that it's an experience that i'm not going to encounter here in fresh water. While I wouldn't dream of doing it in bad weather, there is definitely something intriguing about the idea of engaging swells, currents, ferries, logs, whales, etc. Perhaps it's just a romantic dream and the reality is quite less engaging.

 

[Crusty Chief]

BD-
We understand the desire to get the most out of your "Training Passage". Just remember that being on the go all the time can induce a lot of stress on everyone. There's a lot more to boating than being underway all day to get to that next spot. The crew has to work with the Captain, but the Captain also has to work with the crew.
When the crew (and the Captain) has to learn as much as possible in a short time, such as how to set anchor, dock, use the Davit, engine checks, power consumption and so on, it will take its toll on everyone. You need time to relax occasionally and debrief. As well as try and enjoy the surroundings, make a few nice meals or enjoy an adult beverage at Sunset.
Just my 2 cents worth mostly from past experience.
Best of luck, John

 

[BDofMSP]

The places I listed in the Gulf Islands are a mix of very nice and somewhat funky marinas, marine parks with mooring buoys, and anchorages.

If you have not already done so I suggest you get one or more of the cruising guides for the Gulf Islands. We use the Douglass Guide, the Dreamspeaker Guide, Best Anchorages of the Inside Passages, the Waggoner Guide and the BC Sailing Directions.

To us the Gulf Islands make for far more enjoyable cruising than the San Juan's. Sort of like comparing Victoria, BC to LA.

We have Waggoner but have not looked at the others. I'll definitely look into it.

 

[Northern Spy]

We want to have a mix of remote anchoring, mooring, anchoring with neighbors, and even marina docks.

That would be Desolation.

If the goal is to boat in BC, then it would make sense to charter in BC, would it not? Probably too late, but the slog up the Strait of Georgia is indeed a slog. If I were to charter in the San Juans/Gulf Islands, I would stay in the immediate vicinity.

If I wanted to boat in Desolation or to Princess Louisa, I would charter in BC. There is a Californian 39 for charter at Desolation Sound Yacht Charters for a considerable lower cost and 20% off once you figure in exchange. Cooper has boats in Powell River for charter that would be a few hours to Desolation and a with a faster boat, a day trip to Princess Louisa.

Maybe next time.

As Marin has said the crossing can be a complete bore. It's been like a millpond out there for the last 4 days, but supposed to blow a gale tomorrow.

That said, I've done Sidney to Nanaimo in a day with no issue, had to get up early to time Dodd Narrows correctly. Nanaimo to Sarah Point or Cortes Bay, is about the same as Nanaimo to Princess Louisa, but with weather and bailout options enroute.

The key thing is to be flexible with your dates and weather windows.

The last week of June always seems a tad fickle weather wise as well.

 

[BDofMSP]

BD-
We understand the desire to get the most out of your "Training Passage". Just remember that being on the go all the time can induce a lot of stress on everyone. There's a lot more to boating than being underway all day to get to that next spot. The crew has to work with the Captain, but the Captain also has to work with the crew.
When the crew (and the Captain) has to learn as much as possible in a short time, such as how to set anchor, dock, use the Davit, engine checks, power consumption and so on, it will take its toll on everyone. You need time to relax occasionally and debrief. As well as try and enjoy the surroundings, make a few nice meals or enjoy an adult beverage at Sunset.
Just my 2 cents worth mostly from past experience.
Best of luck, John

That is a very important reminder. On our last trip it was just the two of us, and we spent a TON of time just checking systems, practicing anchoring, learning about the autopilot (which we don't have). We learned a lot from that, and it's part of why I'm so excited to do it again.

I don't want it to be a 12 hour death march every day. I want it to be a positive learning experience. Thanks for the reminder.