Desolation Sound, 2017

[dhays]

Tomorrow, I think we will stop in Pender Harbor. I have never been there and my wife seems to want to have another short day. That puts crossing Georgia Strait on Tuesday and I haven't had good enough cell connections to get a good handle on the wind forecast. As near as I can tell, tomorrow would be a very good day to cross, but from here that would mean Comox. Comox is nice, but we want to see something different. The same is true for Nanaimo.

I'd just as soon go further South tomorrow and see if we can get into Smugglers or Secret Cove. However, I don't make these decisions.

So Tuesday could be a long day (which I don't mind) but could be a long rolly crossing which isn't fun. I'd like to see if we can sneak through Gabriola Passage and find a place to anchor in the Northern end of the Gulf Islands. Never been into Silva Bay, not sure if that is a good place to anchor for the night or not. On the inside of Gabriola Passage what about De Courcy Island? Any good places to anchor there for the night?

 

[Ka_sea_ta]

Dave, If you are going to Pender Harbor we have stayed at the Garden Bay Pub and alway had a pleasant experience it's pretty laid back. I'd call for a reservation. Silva bay has limited area s to anchor and there is a lot of boat traffic. The Silva bay resort has good docks but again I'd call for reservation... the pub is good

 

[dhays]

Thanks. I'll see about calling ahead at Garden Bay.

I haven't checked the current at Gabriola Passage to even know if going through there is a possibility at the time we would be going through. Last year I went through against the current, and would rather not do that again.

 

[Xsbank]

Silva Bay (and Degnen Bay for that matter) have been ruined by mooring buoys. You could use a dock, but that's no fun! Pirate's Cove is nice, frequently crowded but its possible to anchor in the middle, just not great holding in a Westerly. It has an interesting entrance, look at your chart and watch for the range. You can also anchor behind the little island at the mouth of the narrows, it is a yacht club outstation but they don't own the anchoring. Probably crowded (with drunks!).

Garden Bay is nice, with or without the pub. If you dinghy into the GB pub dock, you can walk right by the pub and go to LaVerne's for fish and chips or to John Henry's cafe. I haven't been there since last year but its supposed to be good. The pub is hit and miss with the food, haven't been recently but the last time I was there it was very amateurish, basically a gong show. They have booze...

I am at the Pender Harbour Resort in Duncan Cove and I will be making my boat smaller and lighter tomorrow by grinding aluminum...you can moor at my marina, cell phone works best. There are two yacht club docks there too. 604-885-1256 Robin.

 

[Hawgwash]

Tomorrow, I think we will stop in Pender Harbor... I'd just as soon go further South tomorrow and see if we can get into Smugglers or Secret Cove....I'd like to see if we can sneak through Gabriola Passage and find a place to anchor in the Northern end of the Gulf Islands...On the inside of Gabriola Passage what about De Courcy Island?

Well, while I was drafting this, I see you were already plotting. But, anyway;
...First to your points, Smugglers should have room in the week, early like and if not, Secret is right there. If you do go into Smugglers, mind the ledge to stb or you'll have another avatar like your original. Looks treacherous but it isn't after the first time. Same story with Pirates on De Courcy. Tight and possibly busy.

So, what I was composing; couple suggestions since you are starting out on that side;
Anywhere at the mouth of Jervis, among Nelson & Hardy Islands.
Pirates Cove
Jedediah
Gabriola Pass to Telegraph Harbour
Chemainus, Maple Bay, Genoa and Cowichan

If you do head down towards Westview, just past Savary, you’ll see Dinner Rock, which I wrote about a couple years ago;
"Every summer, our annual holidays would be a trip onboard a Union boat to Vancouver, where we would spend a few days before catching a Gulf Lines steamer to Westview for a couple of weeks or more. I will never cruise past Savary Island without thinking of the 5 souls lost when the Gulf Stream ran up on Dinner Rock. One, an infant pulled from his father's arms by the sea."
http://www.nauticapedia.ca/Gallery/Gulfstream.php

 

[Hawgwash]

I am at the Pender Harbour Resort in Duncan Cove

X, there you are.
Did you miss this?

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s3/ayeee-xsbank-33934.html

And this, post 31?

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s3/looking-capstan-30128-2.html

No need to reply here and sidetrack Dave.

 

[dhays]

Thanks. I'll see about calling ahead at Garden Bay.

I haven't checked the current at Gabriola Passage to even know if going through there is a possibility at the time we would be going through. Last year I went through against the current, and would rather not do that again.

 

[drb1025]

We really like Pender Harbour. There is a lot to do and see. Plenty of places to anchor. Easy to dinghy around to cafes, pubs, and for groceries. Fun to kayak. We usually anchor in or near Garden Bay. Hiking trails nearby.

 

[dhays]

We really like Pender Harbour. There is a lot to do and see. Plenty of places to anchor. Easy to dinghy around to cafes, pubs, and for groceries. Fun to kayak. We usually anchor in or near Garden Bay. Hiking trails nearby.

Good to know that anchoring is available.

 

[koliver]

Dave:

Busy time, so this is the first time I have been able to catch up. We regret terribly having to buzz off rather than buzz over to say hello while you were a mere 3 miles away. Hopefully can apologize in person some other time.
We realized that if we headed south, we could spend the weekend with good friends at a Laser regatta at Scott Point, and see some folks who are off to Scotland tomorrow for over a month, not returning until after we leave for Portugal (Daughter lives there) in the fall, so would miss them till into November. We headed south, made Secret Cove, then set out across the Strait, in what was predicted to be NW 10, turned out to be SE 20, on the nose all the way. Seas 1.5 m, with the odd 2.5m just to keep things interesting. We got to Tugboat (Silva Bay) had lunch, then with a forecast switch from SE 15 across the docks to NW 20, decided to carry on to Scott Point. Arrived in time for happy hour and pot luck, the opening of the Laser regatta. I raced yesterday and today, what fun. I had forgotten how much I enjoy sailing my Laser! I was able to pull my performance out of DFL, to third last overall in a field of 15 Lasers and one Lightning. SPOG Sailing | Old Guys in Old Boats if you are interested.
If you are stopping in Garden Bay, the anchoring is excellent. The pub is worth a stop.
If you want to stop on the way to GB, We like anchoring between Fox and Hardy. There is a park there, lots of anchoring room. I prefer to anchor in the middle, in about 50 ft and swing, but if there are lots of boats, tying back is a reality there. If you are looking for something different on the way south, try Jedediah Island. We generally avoid the anchorages on Jedediah itself, and anchor in Boho Bay, as it is more protected. 60 t0 80 ft depth, but good holding and well hidden from the wind. If you are trapping prawns, there is a very good trench in sight of the anchorage.

When we came across on Friday, the forecast was totally wrong, so you just need to understand that the weatherman is on vacation at the moment and just go.

Silva Bay can be intimidating if you want to anchor, but there is lots of room if you don't go in too far. Just between the RVYC docks and the North East corner of the bay is usually open and has lots of room.

Will be tied up at Scott Point for a while. Let me know if you decide to stop in Ganges.

Keith

 

[ghost]

I've seen the Gulf Stream, a few years back. Think she was about 170 feet down the ledge and just hanging on. It's a bit of a surreal experience, but very impressive to see. One of our guys suddenly broke his mask at 170, but I quickly got him a backup and crisis was averted. There was another wreck, not terribly far, think it was the Capilano or something similar. Anyway, we were tasked with leaving a memorial marker. There is still family around. Think one of our group sent video, but it's been some time. Yes, I was well aware of the history and the stories. It makes a difference in how you treat the site and appreciate everything you see. On The way up from the Gulf Stream I had the largest Octopus I ever saw accompany me for almost the entire time which was about an hour. Just kept following, curious and also huge and fully out in the open. Never seen one do that before or after.

Anyway, it's an important place and worth remembering. Pictures are great.

 

[Hawgwash]

There was another wreck, not terribly far, think it was the Capilano or something similar.

You remember correctly but to be true to history it was the frst of 3 Union Steamships named Capilano, though none used a number designation.

Capilano (I) a 120', steel, built in sections in Scotland and assembled in Vancouver’s Coal Harbour in 1891. In 1915 she hit a rock off Texada and sank the next day near Savary.

Capilano (II) pictured, 135', wood, built 1920 and retired 1949.
Capilano (III) 145', steel, saw short freight service ‘51 to ‘59 and became Northlands Haida Princess.

Capilano came from the Burrard family name Ky-Ap-Lan-Huh. Chief (George) Capilano and 40 war canoes escorted Captain (George) Vancouver into Burrard inlet in 1792.

 

[ghost]

On the Capilano, everything that was wood, pretty much everything above the gunnel, is gone. It's one where you quickly duck inside the hull to get out of the current. She sits right side up, the top is open and as you get out of the current suddenly everything is calm, quiet even. The exposed ribs and bulkheads provide shelter. Various rockfish sit cozy in corners and don't seem to have to work much to make a living. Since she is more in the open channel, visibility is always somewhat subdued. Always just enough haze that everything is just a bit smoky, you don't see sharp edges everything is a bit rounded in the haze. Shadows everywhere. Still, the Capilano especially is strikingly haunting, I actually somewhat enjoyed finally leaving the protection of her hull to swim down her lee side. Most of the vessels from this era are similar, the wood cabins gone or sandwiched down, leaving the hull to tell whatever story is left.

 

[dhays]

We really like Pender Harbour. There is a lot to do and see. Plenty of places to anchor. Easy to dinghy around to cafes, pubs, and for groceries. Fun to kayak. We usually anchor in or near Garden Bay. Hiking trails nearby.

Good to know that anchoring is available.

 

[dhays]

Having a great breakfast at Nancy's Bakery. Wow!

 

[Xsbank]

I had heard it had gone downhill - not true?

 

[Northern Spy]

I had heard it had gone downhill - not true?

Still fine by me. Was just up at Nancy's last week with Sunchaser. Sorry I couldn't make it up to see you David, up in Edmonton this weekend for a wedding.

 

[sunchaser]

David
Suggest you hoist anchor this AM and get to Nanaimo. Wednesday winds not favorable for crossing. We will be traveling from Newcastle anchorage to Montague this AM.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Yellow bus still at Montague?
Every once in awhile I hear yellow submarine in my head.

 

[dhays]

I had heard it had gone downhill - not true?

If it had gone downhill, then it was serving nothing but Ambrosia in the past. The breakfast was amazing. We also bought a loaf of bread that was really good, as well as a scone and a cinnamon roll. The scone was great, and I am about to eat the cinnamon roll now.

Still fine by me. Was just up at Nancy's last week with Sunchaser. Sorry I couldn't make it up to see you David, up in Edmonton this weekend for a wedding.

Another year NS. I still owe a beer or two for all the help and advice you gave last year. That goes for HW and Keith as well.

David

Suggest you hoist anchor this AM and get to Nanaimo. Wednesday winds not favorable for crossing. We will be traveling from Newcastle anchorage to Montague this AM.

I woke up with the sun and took off as soon as it was light. Georgia Strait is flat and calm. As near as I can tell, WG isn't active today so it is a straight shot to Nanaimo. Once there we will either decide to stay in Nanaimo, or possibly try to make the slack a bit after 11:00am at Dodd Narrows and spend the night somewhere in the Gulf Islands tonight. We need to be in Genoa Bay by tomorrow afternoon.

Hard to describe how beautiful it all looks right now with the mountains to the SW and NE, the blue sky and water. Just a slight ripple on the water. The wind is somewhere between a light air and a light breeze (Beaufort scale).

 

[rochepoint]

Yellow bus still at Montague?
Every once in awhile I hear yellow submarine in my head.

Yes the bus to the Hummingbird Pub is still operating and is just as crazy as always. Its the best part of the pub trip.......

 

[dhays]

With the intermittent connectivity I see there were a bunch of post the other day that I missed. I'm really worry not reply in a timely manner to them all. Still not sure I can connect.

Since the crossing went so well, we decided to try and make the slack at Dodd Narrows at 11:07am I think. I am motoring along much faster than I would normally, but I think we will make it. I'd like to catch the tail of the ebb so am not fighting the flood. From the radio so far, there are a lot boats transiting each way.

Once through, we will be looking for a place to anchor in the islands for the night. I did see a post above from Keith on that, so I will go up and read it.

 

[AlaskaProf]

Yellow bus still at Montague?
Every once in awhile I hear yellow submarine in my head.

Yes. Two weeks ago, anyway.

 

[koliver]

With the intermittent connectivity I see there were a bunch of post the other day that I missed. I'm really worry not reply in a timely manner to them all. Still not sure I can connect.

Since the crossing went so well, we decided to try and make the slack at Dodd Narrows at 11:07am I think. I am motoring along much faster than I would normally, but I think we will make it. I'd like to catch the tail of the ebb so am not fighting the flood. From the radio so far, there are a lot boats transiting each way.

Once through, we will be looking for a place to anchor in the islands for the night. I did see a post above from Keith on that, so I will go up and read it.

Dave:

If you are through Dodd soon and don't want to go too far south before anchoring, you might try Clam Bay. On today's tide you will be able to take your dinghy through the "cut" into Telegraph Harbour for a visit. Tie up at either marina and take a walk. The first one you come to is the "Telegraph Harbour" marina, tie by the foot of the ramp and you can visit the store/ice cream parlour and walk down the road as far as your legs will allow. Nice views out towards Chemainus, or walk all the way round to the "Thetis Island" marina/Pub. Or tie at the latter and do the walk in reverse.

From there you can go down the west side of Saltspring to Genoa Bay tomorrow. The restaurant at the Genoa Bay docks is one of the nicest in the Gulf Islands.

If you are being more adventurous, a couple of miles farther on is Wallace Island, across from our house. Princess Cove is a very pleasant anchorage, the trails on Wallace are very walkable, you can go up to the NW end, Chivers Point, or down to the SE end, Panther Point. Both are nice, scenic, typical Provincial park trails.

From there you will still likely want to go around the top, Southey Point end of Saltspring and down through Sansum Narrows to Genoa Bay. It is an hour further the other way around Saltspring, but if you don't want to fight the Flood through Sansum narrows, may be just as quick.

Further down, you could anchor in Long Harbour, where there are several choices. The one I would choose, were I not tied to a dock there, is to go past the ferry terminal and on the right, about 1/2 mile further in, you will see a couple of permanently moored boats. Lots of room for you to anchor nearby, relatively quiet, good holding. If you do come in to Long Harbour, let me know. I have my 20 knot dinghy in the water, so could easily come to say hello.

 

[dhays]

Thanks Keith.

I think we will try to anchor in Clam Bay and maybe explore by dinghy into Telegraph. I've not been there before but Telegraph Hbr was where my folks were anchored when he had his fatal stroke.

Made it through Dodd. A bit of a circus. A log boom went North against the current before slack. This meant there was a huge backup on both ends. There were over 20 boats waiting with us on the North side and the flood was already going pretty good by the time we went through. Situations like that really highlife those boaters who are considerate, vs all the rest.

Then just as we cleared Dodd, a pod of orca were heading North through the Narrows. Some boaters did what they were supposed to do and idled down and tried to steer out of their path. Others went towards them. A few seemed oblivious that were blasting straight through them. <sigh>

 

[koliver]

Then just as we cleared Dodd, a pod of orca were heading North through the Narrows.

I hope you got some good pictures. Otherwise, it didn't really happen.

In Clam Bay, we usually anchor towards the south end of the bay, it makes taking the dog to shore easier, as I can nose the dinghy up to the rocks and the dog can leap off, then back on, whereas everywhere else I have to get my feet wet. It is also the favoured end in the prevailing summer SE breezes.
When going through the cut, the easiest times are at 1/2 tide. You have depth and visibility of the banks, that disappear in higher tides like you will get this evening.

 

[dhays]

I hope you got some good pictures. Otherwise, it didn't really happen.

Well, that is a story in itself.

My wife has had her camera in hand just waiting for whales. When we saw the humpbacks yesterday she was so concerned about getting pictures that I'm not sure she truly enjoyed them. I was watching them through my nifty stabilized binocs.

Today, she grabbed her camera, when out on the bow to take some pictures. She got one picture taken (not a great one) but then her camera battery died. She then tried to find her cell phone to take a picture with it. By the time the cell phone was found, she got up to the boat deck to look aft, the whales had submerged (she claims frightened away by the barking dog on a near by sailboat). I just enjoyed the orcas as much as I could while avoiding collisions. She was a little grumpy at herself.

In Clam Bay, we usually anchor towards the south end of the bay, it makes taking the dog to shore easier, as I can nose the dinghy up to the rocks and the dog can leap off, then back on, whereas everywhere else I have to get my feet wet. It is also the favoured end in the prevailing summer SE breezes.

When going through the cut, the easiest times are at 1/2 tide. You have depth and visibility of the banks, that disappear in higher tides like you will get this evening.

Your earlier posts mentioning clam bay was helpful. Of course I didn't see this until after we had anchored. We ended up on the northern end of the West shore near the cut. There was a convenient open spot amid the anchored boats so we anchored in about 25 feet of water at about a 4' tide. After a short nap by my wife (missing photos of orcas will take a lot out of you), we got in the dinghy and went through the cut to Telegraph Harbor Marina. We had some ice cream and sat in the shade enjoying the view. Coming back out the current and wind were against us so it took a bit longer. Very nice little excursion.

Now we are swinging on the anchor enjoying this wonderful weather. Wind varies from 2-10 knots and is varying a bit from direction. There have been a number of folks running through the cut in their dinghies (usually way overloaded with no PFDs in evidence) so it isn't as quiet as as it might be.

The weather is just amazing. It got up to about 79 degrees today but is thankfully starting to cool down to more civilized temps.

 

[dhays]

Lovely sunset looking West towards the Cut from Clam Bay.

 

[koliver]

Lovely sunset looking West towards the Cut from Clam Bay.
View attachment 67950

Now That is what I am talking about! Well done Mrs. Hays!

 

[JDCAVE]

Dave: sorry to break bad news but the weather and water is much colder north of Desolation. That said there is much more to see and do. The grizzlies in Glendale were a special treat and the prawning there was an added bonus. Sorry we missed you in Desolation. We went through the three rapids this morning and enter Von Donop Inlet as everyone was leaving. We try and enter anchorages at "check-out time" to get our pick of spots. The is our first time in VDI. It's very nice.