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Old 08-20-2014, 11:56 AM   #21
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If you have a split 50, 1/2 panel powered by one 30 amp cord then the other side by the other 30 to have all outlets and systems powered by 30 amp shore power you need 1 of 2 things. 1. a panel with a parallel function to combine the 2sides or 2. A single 30 cord plug split to 2 30's to be plugged in at the boats 2 outlets. Just opposite of 50 to 2 30's at the pedestal. It is a 30 to 2 30's at the boat About $120 or so. Works fine on my Mainship.
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Old 08-20-2014, 03:49 PM   #22
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An example of a 240v Panel.
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Old 08-20-2014, 04:00 PM   #23
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Different issue but bring at least 100 feet of water hose. 150 feet may be a better idea especially with a 47 foot boat which may be docked at the extremes of a marina.
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Old 08-20-2014, 04:21 PM   #24
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Different issue but bring at least 100 feet of water hose. 150 feet may be a better idea especially with a 47 foot boat which may be docked at the extremes of a marina.
Good point. Plus a filter.

Tricoflex is flat out the best FW hose I've ever used. hozelock-tricoflex : reinforced hoses for water
And it comes in 50 meter lengths.
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Old 08-24-2014, 06:58 AM   #25
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At most of the Canadian locks where you pay to tie up ,15A -120v , a house sized socket was the norm.
Marina$ may be different.

Plan on anchoring out and running the noisemaker if a 15A lifestyle is not acceptable.

Same for most of the free docks on the Erie barge canal,15a house plug.
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Old 08-24-2014, 07:35 AM   #26
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Plan on anchoring out and running the noisemaker if a 15A lifestyle is not acceptable.

Same for most of the free docks on the Erie barge canal,15a house plug.
Life will be easier if your boat can make use of the 15A to charge the batteries 24hrs a day and to the extent necessary you draw down the batteries to satisfy the peaks of a stove or coffee pot etc. Typical charger will put out more than 1200 AH per 24 hr period and that is enough for anything other than air conditioning. If you are going to be frequently in 15 A environments you can add a second shore power outlet that only serves one outlet on the boat to use for a charger or refrigeration and thus use two 15 A sources.
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Old 08-26-2014, 06:18 AM   #27
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The real power hog , might consider one of the boosting inverters like the old Trace 2440 ? 4024?.

It was 4000w at 24v.

These can be set to the input amperage available , and will take power from the bat set to fill in if higher amperage is required., up to 4KW

The size of the house bank counts as a too high draw shortens the batt life.

The unit automatically recharges the house bank any time the draw is below the amps set point.

The work well, but load shedding , automatic or by switching is far cheaper .
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Old 08-29-2014, 09:57 AM   #28
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Thanks for everyone's suggestions. I will be getting a smart y, a 30 to 50 amp adapter and already have a 15 to 30 amp adaptor. Will also purchase spare lengths of cords for each 50 and 30 amp.
My 120 side runs the battery charger so can get house charged while on a 15 amp service with careful power management. Inverter will work well for "incidental" needs while in this situation.
Without 50 amp service (unless the smart y will work and provide 220) we will be prepared for no A/C or hot water! Thanks
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Old 08-29-2014, 10:05 AM   #29
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The smart Y works great for getting 240, but the two 30's have to be out of phase, which they typically are when both are on the same pedestal. The smart Y's like my Charles have a little indicator light. Remember, you just have 30 amps available when you do this.
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Old 08-29-2014, 10:19 AM   #30
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240 volt appliances will have double pole breakers. 120 volt appliances will have single pole breakers. Look at the electrical panel and you will know what's on your boat (assuming that you know the difference).

Or, check the label on appliances you suspect might be 240 volt like the range, water heater and airconditioner.
Ron, did you mean double pole/double throw here?
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Old 08-29-2014, 04:13 PM   #31
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Ron, did you mean double pole/double throw here?
No. The breaker disconnects both hot leads.

If you look at the photo in post #22 you'll see two beakers with a common handle.

Post #5 shows a panel with only single pole breakers for 120 volt circuits
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Old 08-29-2014, 04:56 PM   #32
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Without 50 amp service (unless the smart y will work and provide 220) we will be prepared for no A/C or hot water! Thanks
You might want to confirm whether your water heater is 220 volts or 110 volts. Most North American marine water heaters are 110 volts, typically 1,500 watts, and many only 750 watts. If it is a 110 volt heater you could easily heat the water with a 15amp 110 volt circuit provided you manage your power for the 15 to 30 minutes each day this would take.
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Old 08-29-2014, 06:39 PM   #33
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Post 12 shows that some 220 breakers only have a single handle yet disconnect both hots.

here's a link to the wiring diagram for that panel

http://www.paneltronics.com/technica...grams/4304.pdf
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File Type: pdf 4304.pdf (51.4 KB, 18 views)
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Old 08-30-2014, 08:35 AM   #34
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You might want to confirm whether your water heater is 220 volts or 110 volts. Most North American marine water heaters are 110 volts, typically 1,500 watts, and many only 750 watts. If it is a 110 volt heater you could easily heat the water with a 15amp 110 volt circuit provided you manage your power for the 15 to 30 minutes each day this would take.
On my boat the A/C and water heater are 220 volt. Thanks.
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Old 08-30-2014, 03:45 PM   #35
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The smart Y works great for getting 240, but the two 30's have to be out of phase, which they typically are when both are on the same pedestal. The smart Y's like my Charles have a little indicator light. Remember, you just have 30 amps available when you do this.

???

Only 30-amps total spread across the two "50A" legs?

We haven't had to use ours often, but I don't remember not being able to run pretty much everything all at once -- as usual -- with the Smart Y. And all that (both aircons, cooktop, microwave, both fridges, water heater, etc.) that would exceed 30 amps, if everything happened to be on at once.

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Old 08-30-2014, 03:56 PM   #36
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Only 30-amps total spread across the two "50A" legs?
Yep, it is no longer 2 50 amp legs when you use the Y; the dockside service is 30 amps remember. The dock pedestal power breakers will flip if you exceed it on either leg. I have tested this a few times.
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Old 08-30-2014, 04:16 PM   #37
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Yep, it is no longer 2 50 amp legs when you use the Y; the dockside service is 30 amps remember. The dock pedestal power breakers will flip if you exceed it on either leg. I have tested this a few times.

That means it's two 30-amp legs?

That would probably be enough to run all our house stuff... assuming soft starts, compressors not all running at the same time, etc. I think. And that would 'splain why we've not ever had any problem...

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Old 08-30-2014, 05:17 PM   #38
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Yes, two 30 amp dock outlets / breakers provide two 30 amp legs. We can get over 30 amps/240 on a hot day without trying hard; easy enough to manage though.
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Old 08-30-2014, 06:25 PM   #39
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That means it's two 30-amp legs?

That would probably be enough to run all our house stuff... assuming soft starts, compressors not all running at the same time, etc. I think. And that would 'splain why we've not ever had any problem...

-Chris
Yes...it's 60 amps 110 or 30 amps 220...or some combo depending on your particular setup.

But the real reason for the smart Y is to ensure you have the 30 amps 250 (whatever its feeding you).
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Old 08-31-2014, 07:24 AM   #40
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That means it's two 30-amp legs?

Sometimes its only 2 sockets on the same circuit.

Many times you will need to find the other leg and run a power hose to a different dock socket.

Carry a VOM
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