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Old 11-23-2014, 10:40 AM   #21
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Coppercoat is very popular in our marina (on the Missouri River) with the rich owners of big sailboats. It's kind of overkill in my opinion because our fresh water is so clean and our seasons so short that zincs last for five or more years for example. We do get a slime on the hulls that might be a quarter inch thick by the end of a six month season so most boats get powerwashed at haulout, but a garden hose will wash off the bottoms of the Coppercoat boats. And it sure looks pretty.
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Old 11-23-2014, 02:32 PM   #22
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BTW- I hate to break the news to you, but Coppercoat requires regular haulouts for sanding, just like Copperpoxy did.
That is categorically incorrect. If applied correctly, Coppercoat in fact does not require regular haulouts for sanding.

However, as it can be a DIY project, if applied INCORRECTLY, well that could be an issue. Inasmuch, I could use a two-part paint incorrectly and then say it doesn't work very well...

But it's easy to get the two products confused. The yard manager where we had Coppercoat applied initially tried to warn me away from it. He said he applied Coppercoat to a friend's Cape George sailboat 20 years ago in Port Townsend, and it required "seasonal" scuffing/sanding. I said I thought that was pretty much impossible, as Coppercoat has only been available in this country for about 5 years and does not need regular sanding. But he was positive (though he did not use a bank reference ). He ended up calling his friend who still has the boat, and discovered that it was actually Copperpoxy that he worked with all those years ago. However, interestingly enough, the Copperpoxy was still on the boat...

Anyway, I'll get a hold of the Coppercoat USA folks in FL and see if they have any customers in the SF Bay area and what their actual experiences are.
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Old 11-23-2014, 02:48 PM   #23
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That is categorically incorrect. If applied correctly, Coppercoat in fact does not require regular haulouts for sanding.
Umm... right.

Eventually, usually after several years, the surface may benefit from being lightly abraded with a fine grade of "wet and dry" paper or a burnishing pad to expose fresh copper.

Frequently asked questions about Coppercoat anti-fouling epoxy. Why is Coppercoat better than standard marine bottom paint? And much more!
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Old 11-23-2014, 03:59 PM   #24
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Umm... right.

Eventually, usually after several years, the surface may benefit from being lightly abraded with a fine grade of "wet and dry" paper or a burnishing pad to expose fresh copper.

Frequently asked questions about Coppercoat anti-fouling epoxy. Why is Coppercoat better than standard marine bottom paint? And much more!
Ok, so it's how you word things... "Eventually, usually after several years" - and they are being conservative in their wording - "the surface MAY benefit from being lightly abraded" does not fit your statement of "Coppercoat requires regular haulouts for sanding". And, I will guess that most people equate "regular haulouts" with needing to do so every couple of years, if not annually.

I'll be quite satisfied if five, six, seven or more years from now my hull "may benefit" from being "lightly abraded" with a burnishing pad. It very well may not need it. No matter how you word it, that is better than needing another full bottom job or two in the same time period.
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Old 11-23-2014, 04:34 PM   #25
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Yeah, I hate to be proven wrong too.
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Old 11-24-2014, 09:51 AM   #26
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It will be interesting to me to see how Coppercoat does here in the keys. Boot Key Harbor is the worst fouling area I have ever seen. We had a black hard anti-foul on the hull before. I don't know what it was as it was on there when we bought the boat in 2012. We had to have the bottom cleaned every month or it would get away from you. After just 30 days we would have a 1" carpet on the bottom with lots of hard growth as well. We have only been back in the water for 16 days but I wanted to check the bow thruster prop so I jumped in the water yesterday to check it out. The Coppercoat had zero on it. My prop and shaft which I had used a hard anti-foul on had slime on them, but wiped off easily. The bow thruster prop (no anti-foul, just plastic prop) had lots of hard growth on it already. Had to scrape it to clean it. The bolts that hold the zinc on the transom of the boat had hard growth as well.

It amazes me that there are only two bolts and the thruster prop that are not protected and the stuff finds them to grow on.

I have been trying to think of how to protect the thruster prop. Since it is hard glossy plastic I don't know if anything will stick to it. I don't know why they don't make them out of copper. As expensive as they are I think they could. I wondered if I took two plastic black balls and squeezed one inside each end of the tunnel while we are stopped here till April if that would stop the growth. No light and no exchange of water.

Any ideas?
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Old 11-24-2014, 10:29 AM   #27
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It will be interesting to me to see how Coppercoat does here in the keys. Boot Key Harbor is the worst fouling area I have ever seen.
Jim at Coppercoat USA said they have a trawler customer not too far from you in Miami that applied Coppercoat 6 years ago and has not had to do any sanding since the original application.

Interesting predicament with the plastic thruster prop, though. Sounds like your idea of keeping the critters out (with something to block the opening) is the only way to go... Good luck!
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Old 11-26-2014, 10:03 PM   #28
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It's interesting how our memory works. I had forgotten how often I or a diver cleaned the bottom on my 4788. It does seem like every 6 months at least down in the Estuary I needed zinks and the bottom scrubbed. When I began keeping my boat in the Delta I was spending time in fresh and salt water and the transition kept the bottom in pretty good shape. It may help that there is a lot of current where I keep my boat now. The fresh water seems to make bottom paint last a couple of years longer.
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Old 11-26-2014, 10:23 PM   #29
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It does seem like every 6 months at least down in the Estuary I needed zinks and the bottom scrubbed.
Oh, I guarantee you needed to have your bottom cleaned more often than every 6 months on the Estuary. Maybe you weren't aware of it, but your diver was.

FYI- your anti fouling paint seems to last longer because the fouling conditions in the delta are so much less than they were in the Bay.
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Old 11-26-2014, 10:40 PM   #30
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This is in the big Miss. Saltwater guys need not respond. Cheapest possible ebay bottom paint and about 25 % more copper (cuprous oxide, from any fireworks builder) will last a few years. Epoxy and a generous amount of cuprous oxide is good for high speed craft. It aint rocket science. My bottom lasts about 5 years and can go 7.
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Old 11-26-2014, 10:55 PM   #31
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After reading the replies I think one reason the hull gets as dirty as it does is the fact I've used ablative paint even though I take the boat out 2 to 3 times a week. A 2nd possibility is how well protected the marina is, no current and the water temp runs about 4 degrees warmer than out in the river. So the boat sits in warm, calm water and even the use it gets isn't enough for the ablative paint to work as advertised. I talked with the marina today and the hull has been pressure washed and looks good, no blisters or other problems. They are going to blast off all the paint to the gelcoat do 4 coats of the interprotect 2000 barrier and then what ever bottom paint I choose. The blasting will happen Monday then it'll be blocked up in the shop and the other projects done and all the coating and painting will happen when it's warm enough in the spring before its launched. At this time I'am leaning towards Trinidad or Ultra and will make the final decision after I know both are compatible with the barrier coat.
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Old 11-27-2014, 08:33 AM   #32
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This is in the big Miss. Saltwater guys need not respond. Cheapest possible ebay bottom paint and about 25 % more copper (cuprous oxide, from any fireworks builder) will last a few years. Epoxy and a generous amount of cuprous oxide is good for high speed craft. It aint rocket science. My bottom lasts about 5 years and can go 7.
Don't forget to add a couple pounds of ground cayenne pepper to the paint as well.
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Old 11-27-2014, 09:37 AM   #33
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I talked with the marina today and the hull has been pressure washed and looks good, no blisters or other problems. They are going to blast off all the paint to the gelcoat do 4 coats of the interprotect 2000 barrier and then what ever bottom paint I choose. The blasting will happen Monday then it'll be blocked up in the shop and the other projects done and all the coating and painting will happen when it's warm enough in the spring before its launched. At this time I'am leaning towards Trinidad or Ultra and will make the final decision after I know both are compatible with the barrier coat.
Just a heads up to make sure the yard/marina carefully follows your instructions for applying bottom paint over the Interprotect 2000. I had a problem with bottom paint flaking off because I let the barrier coat completely cure (slick and hard) over the winter before applying bottom paint. The Interlux tech guys subsequently advised that I should sand off the flaking bottom paint (thereby also roughening the epoxy), apply a single tack coat of fresh 2000, and then apply the bottom paint while the epoxy was "thumb print" tacky. That will give a chemical as well as mechanical bond for the bottom paint. I elected to use a hard red Interlux bottom paint for the first coat, followed by two coats of Interlux black ablative. Their tech guys said it would work fine as long as I also followed the over coat times for the bottom paints (basically overnight) Make sure the yard knows this and plans accordingly. They should not apply the last coat of epoxy and quit for the day. Yes, the epoxy stays "open" for a longer period, but if you want the best job, again, apply the bottom paint when it's tacky. Our 44 foot boat had to be done in four sections....epoxy/red bottom paint...epoxy/red bottom paint, etc...because the epoxy very quickly cured beyond the thumb print stage. No way could one person realistically keep up...and it was a challenge for two of us ...one applying the paint and one alternately prepping batches of epoxy, then bottom paint. Two sets of paint trays/applicators, etc.

I chose ablative for the last two coats because the boat is on the Great Lakes and gets hauled every winter. The ablative will reactivate when splashed, where none of the hard paints (that I know of) will work after being hauled for an extended period....maybe the Coppercoat...


The Interlux ablative has been on the boat since 2008 and with the exception of the water line, I still have not seen the red guide coat emerging. I touch up the water line area every two years as it gets a lot of brushing to remove the scum line. That said, the boat has not seen a lot of hours underway in recent years. Except for the water line, there is virtually zero growth on the bottom...Northwest coast of Michigan, four months of each year in the water. Each Fall I carefully power wash the bottom myself as I don't trust the kids in the yard not to blow off the ablative paint.
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Old 11-27-2014, 10:22 AM   #34
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Don't forget to add a couple pounds of ground cayenne pepper to the paint as well.
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Old 11-27-2014, 02:00 PM   #35
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Thanks Skidgear, nothing is going to be applied to the hull till spring when the weather warms up enough, the blasting and sanding is being done now. We went over the required ambient temps and times between coats, the marina does a lot of bottom paint and has employees experienced in doing it right. I've heard of adding pepper to bottom paint, I think I'll add that to the list, it sure can't hurt.
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Old 11-27-2014, 02:30 PM   #36
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I've heard of adding pepper to bottom paint, I think I'll add that to the list, it sure can't hurt.
rwidman was being sarcastic. Adding pepper to paint is a useless, ridiculous wive's tale that is perpetuated by boaters that don't know jack about anti fouling paint.
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Old 11-27-2014, 02:36 PM   #37
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Back to the OP...... In fresh water you can't beat Interlux VC17, 4-5 years easy then give it a light scrub with a 3M scrubbie, put on another coat. It goes on like water and I've done a 40' boat in a morning. A big bonus is that the paint is so thin you get no heavy build up even after multiple coats.
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Old 11-27-2014, 03:37 PM   #38
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rwidman was being sarcastic. Adding pepper to paint is a useless, ridiculous wive's tale that is perpetuated by boaters that don't know jack about anti fouling paint.
That's why there was a wink smiley on my post. There's no "sarcastic" smiley.

I'm planning on writing a book - "101 Stupid Boating Tricks" and that one will be in it.
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Old 11-27-2014, 08:19 PM   #39
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And I thought,damn why hadn't i heard of this trick.
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Old 11-27-2014, 10:04 PM   #40
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rwidman was being sarcastic. Adding pepper to paint is a useless, ridiculous wive's tale that is perpetuated by boaters that don't know jack about anti fouling paint.
There went any boat knowledge points for this month.
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