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Old 01-12-2014, 07:04 AM   #41
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Thanks everyone, today I've got to figure out those aft corners. I miss cabinet work,
nothing straight, flat or square on a boat.
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:12 AM   #42
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Trying to figure out these aft corners . Kinda going with this but not sure .Any suggestions? This one is messing with my head .
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Old 01-13-2014, 03:30 PM   #43
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Trying to figure out these aft corners . Kinda going with this but not sure .Any suggestions? This one is messing with my head .
I'd go with it. It looks good and only a few joints. Here's what Krogen did on ours. The right side is 4" wide and the left is 5" wide. It's the stern port quarter.
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Old 01-13-2014, 04:07 PM   #44
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I like that . Mine has this huge radius to deal with .
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Old 01-13-2014, 04:12 PM   #45
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Hmm , I wonder if it would help the corner come together better if I made the stern section an inch or so wider ?
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Old 01-13-2014, 04:32 PM   #46
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Yea it would even look better if you put a rather small inbd knee at the bend. Perhaps the same width as the two existing pcs or a bit smaller.

After looking at it a little closer the knee should be thinner .. Even half the thickness as the existing pice. By existing pice I mean not the whole thing just one of the two pices bending around the top of the hull.
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Old 01-13-2014, 04:37 PM   #47
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Yea it would even look better if you put a rather small inbd knee at the bend. Perhaps the same width as the two existing pcs or a bit smaller.
Smaller than the one in the template I made ?
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Old 01-13-2014, 04:51 PM   #48
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I just went back in the thread and see each pice is a laminated pice of 8 or 9 strips about 3/16" thick. Perhaps you could get up a bunch of clamps and lam strips and lam in a series of strips descending in length. The most inboard one being the shortest and as long as the bend. The rest being about 1 3/8" to 1 1/2" longer .. All of them curved a bit on the end.

Wish I could draw on this pad. This stuff is hard to describe in text. I know a way to do it but is considerable trouble. Take pics of drawings and post the drawings as pictures. Anybody know a better way?

Is my text at all clear?
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Old 01-13-2014, 05:13 PM   #49
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I could laminate the whole curve but that would take about 45 laminates 1/8" thk. Anything any thicker won't take the bend .the rail is is 4-1/2" wide .As the curve got straighter down the length I increased the width of laminates. The last sections that were the straightest my laminations were 3/4" thick .
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:37 PM   #50
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I could laminate the whole curve but that would take about 45 laminates 1/8" thk. Anything any thicker won't take the bend .the rail is is 4-1/2" wide .As the curve got straighter down the length I increased the width of laminates. The last sections that were the straightest my laminations were 3/4" thick .
The corners of the eye brow on Hobo are laminated using the same method you are thinking about, though the are much smaller dimension wise. So far we have replaced 2 out of the 4 corners. The reason they failed was the finish was compromised and moisture got in and slowly started to delaminate the 1/8" to 3/16" laminated strips. The eye brow is now painted for a more easy monitored and maybe durable finish, I hope. IMHO the fewer pieces you need to fabricate the corners, the better off you are .
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Old 01-13-2014, 08:55 PM   #51
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Great joinery, Packmule. Very nice work!! It'll look tremendous when varnished.
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:22 PM   #52
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Thanks FlyWright ,It's just dry fitted right now .Everything has to come off and put back down with caulk . I'm also building some new teak doors . I try to keep two or three different projects going at once.At times on a project like this things just aren't working or going the way you planned and you need to back away and work on something else .
I'm thinking on a couple coats of thinned epoxy first then varnish. Your finish looks great ,what is your secret?
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:37 PM   #53
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When I get around to stripping and rebuilding my doors, that's exactly what I plan...a couple coats of CPES, then lots of varnish. My favorite varnish is gloss Epifanes. It's what the PO used and I have continued.

Thanks for the compliment. I tried the Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss last summer with good results. It allows repeated coats without sanding between coats, allowing a faster buildup of many coats. It looks just like the Epifanes varnish.
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:51 PM   #54
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Pack Mule, what a project! I am absolutely intimidated by it. I can't wait to see the new doors. Great job.
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:59 PM   #55
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Pack Mule consider bedding the CR down w something that comes apart w ease like Dolphinite. But that particular product may dry out in your hot weather but if not it should be perfect. You don't need to seal out water on the CR do you? Does anyone know of a product similar to Dolphinite? It's sort of a putty like stuff that seals very well and stays soft and pliable for extremely long periods of time where there isn't extremely low humidity for long periods. I think I took some Dolphinite apart on my Willard that I'm quite sure was original. Still soft and the bedded part came off easily.

I use a lot of Sika Flex 291 and after 6 to 10 years it seems to always fail.
Tempted to use Life Caulk but I think I recall several here were not happy w it. Wasn't it designed to adhere especially well on teak? Teak is such a problem.
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Old 01-14-2014, 06:08 AM   #56
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Thanks Moonstruck, I'm only 20 minutes from the marina . It takes a lot of trips back and forth for measuring and ideas . Luckily each side of the hull was "close enough" to each other to use the same templates. We still have a lot to do before attaching everything to the hull with caulk .
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Old 01-14-2014, 06:19 AM   #57
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Pack Mule consider bedding the CR down w something that comes apart w ease like Dolphinite. But that particular product may dry out in your hot weather but if not it should be perfect. You don't need to seal out water on the CR do you? Does anyone know of a product similar to Dolphinite? It's sort of a putty like stuff that seals very well and stays soft and pliable for extremely long periods of time where there isn't extremely low humidity for long periods. I think I took some Dolphinite apart on my Willard that I'm quite sure was original. Still soft and the bedded part came off easily.

I use a lot of Sika Flex 291 and after 6 to 10 years it seems to always fail.
Tempted to use Life Caulk but I think I recall several here were not happy w it. Wasn't it designed to adhere especially well on teak? Teak is such a problem.
I was unsure of what to use ,so I asked the TF . Several said TDS SIS 440 would be the best. I have never used this but I'm leaning that way. I used LIfe Caulk before with the primer but wasn't happy . It also could have been that I starved the joint or made to tight of a joint and pushed all the caulk out. A starved glue joint is always a concern.When I went back and reworked the the end joints I wound up with a caulk gasket about 1/16 " thick that wasn't stuck to either side of the teak joint.
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:45 PM   #58
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Cap rail 100 % dry fitted
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Old 01-26-2014, 07:28 PM   #59
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Greetings,
Nice corner treatment.
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Old 01-26-2014, 08:14 PM   #60
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Great job Pack Mule!
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