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Old 02-14-2014, 08:39 AM   #161
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Greetings,
Mr. C. So, in essence you are using the clamps as pry bars and not as clamps- correct? If so, why even mention they're clamps or am I missing something?
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Old 02-14-2014, 08:39 AM   #162
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After I removed the sub deck I inspected the stringers and below decks. This side didn't have any cracked stringers or severe water damage. Today I'll remove the stringers, sand to bare wood, soak with CPES and prime them with epoxy water barrier primer. They will get coated with epoxy top coat before being replaced.

I have surface rust on the fuel tank but it's nothing that POR15 can't handle. I'll have the tank top and back painted before I replace the sub deck. The inside of the hull also.
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Old 02-14-2014, 08:59 AM   #163
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RTF, You are correctomundo. I simply mentioned them as clamps because for about 6 bucko's each you can use them as pry bars, break them, and take them back and get new clamps for the use they were made for.

It's the American way...

And don't forget to take the 20% off coupon when you buy them.
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Old 02-14-2014, 12:13 PM   #164
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American's are the consumers of the world taken to the highest level.

But here on the Capt's job it's "git er done" as I see it.

I don't think a computer could count the thousands of times I've used a screw driver as a pry bar or chisel. However I usually use the old ones for that.
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:04 PM   #165
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I have a crow bar too, actually two of them, but the clamp works the best for this. I only have 3/4" of space where the old teak was taken out from under the bulwarks and the clamp exactly fits it.

The deck is 24" from the house to the outside of the hull. I didn't have a screwdriver that long.
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Old 02-18-2014, 06:26 PM   #166
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Back at work today and I removed the stringers, cleaned them up and soaked them with Smiths CPES. The tops of them, 8 to be exact, soaked in 9 oz. of the stuff before the wood remained glazed for more than 10 seconds.

The thing I keep noticing is they painted the bottom side of the sub deck and stringers after the deck went down. I find a lot of paint seeped on the top edge of the stringers leaving me to believe there was always a gap between the deck and stringers.

When I replace my deck piece I have thickened epoxy on the stringer tops and the deck screws squish it out evenly. I am not having that problem going back.
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Old 02-18-2014, 06:55 PM   #167
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Looking great, Stretch! Your work is inspirational! Love the progress reports.
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Old 02-18-2014, 08:39 PM   #168
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Mr. C, great job, my hat's off to you, what kind of band are you playing in?
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Old 02-18-2014, 09:45 PM   #169
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I play bass and was a professional bass player touring and playing clubs to concerts to festivals. Currently I play with a classic rock band. We play clubs and parties and just have fun for the most part.

Here's a pic from the old days.
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Old 02-19-2014, 01:21 AM   #170
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Gobsmacked!
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Old 02-20-2014, 08:16 AM   #171
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I ran out of POR 15 and found it at 4 Wheel Drive that has a huge warehouse close to my house. I also have a paint that is the same as rustoleum but it isn't near as good as POR 15. I'm using that as a top coat. I should have the tank painted today and be able to move on. This side is going much faster because of less damage and the experience I learned on the port side.

I'll post more pictures soon.
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Old 02-20-2014, 09:26 AM   #172
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Dang man ,I was just thinking about taking a little break on mine . I like your "get after it " attitude . I'll be back at it tonight after work . Thanks for the motivation . Wife says we are like madmen .
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Old 02-20-2014, 10:13 AM   #173
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Hey Pack Mule, I think I am a madman especially after this project that won't let go.

Good thing my head quits hurting when I stop banging it.
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:11 AM   #174
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I now have a solid coat of POR 15 on my tank 1/2 of top and back side. I'm going to clean the inside hull area somehow so I can paint it with epoxy too.

The tank will get a second coat, then I'll paint it white with rust oleum. They don't make POR 15 in white.

It's coming along nicely. I should be cutting out sub deck pieces next week.
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Old 03-06-2014, 09:15 AM   #175
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We had warmer dry weather the last few days and I started back finishing the rust stopping and painting on my starboard fuel tank. This is a 250 gallon black iron tank with surface rust.

I cleaned as much loose rust off the tank as I could and prepped the metal with an acid, then painted a first coat with POR 15. Today I'll do a second coat and when that dries I'll paint two white coats of Rustoleum. Simply because I want white and POR 15 doesn't make white paint.

In the pic, you're looking at the top of the tank and the board in the background is the blocking board at the top edge inside the engine room.

The second pic is the area I have to lay on to get inside the less than 3" space between the tank and sub floor. I already painted the outside of the tank white.
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:28 AM   #176
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Have you considered replacing the non skid with Treadmaster. This is a sheet product that is cut to patterns you decide and it used to be glued down with epoxy. But I see that it is offered with WP self adhesive backing

It comes in two styles and several colors.
One is industrial looking and the other is more genteel. I have used both with success.
Getting rid of all the teak gets rid of useless weight on older boats. The fact that this weight all located above the center of buoyancy is a plus as well.
Defender marine stocks the stuff.

Marine Treadmaster on Sale
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:39 AM   #177
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Greetings,
Mr. C. Welcome aboard. Holy Cow that stuff is pricey! I think I'll stay with Kiwi-Grip.
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:00 PM   #178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Codger View Post
Have you considered replacing the non skid with Treadmaster. This is a sheet product that is cut to patterns you decide and it used to be glued down with epoxy. But I see that it is offered with WP self adhesive backing It comes in two styles and several colors. One is industrial looking and the other is more genteel. I have used both with success. Getting rid of all the teak gets rid of useless weight on older boats. The fact that this weight all located above the center of buoyancy is a plus as well. Defender marine stocks the stuff. Marine Treadmaster on Sale
We have that stuff on our Camano from the PO, it's peeling off, and heavily faded.
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:01 PM   #179
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I'm buying the mold that Nordhavn uses in their boat molds and making a sheet of nonskid which I'll cut as needed and epoxy down. This should look factory and it'll be all one color.

Molded in nonskid is what I'm after.

And, probably at about what that product costs or less. The good thing is that mold can be reused many many times and I can sell ready made nonskid for other boat projects.
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Old 03-06-2014, 03:26 PM   #180
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Do you have the mold already? I'd be interested since I'm doing the same rehab to my boat and located in Shoreline Marina.

Josh

BTW...great job posting your progress. It's looking good!
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