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Old 12-08-2013, 06:35 AM   #141
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47 y.o. Teak Deck

Capthead:

Merry Christmas.
I am very happy today. I came across this thread which I have overlooked in my recent visits to the forum. I went in it and read all messages only to realize one absolute evidence.
No matter what people say about wood, I would like to see any other floor lasting on a deck, 47 years.
I am very happy not only for you and your boat. I am also happy for choosing wood/epoxy to build my Rainha Jannota
Thanks for your thread
Portuguese
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Old 12-13-2013, 10:54 AM   #142
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I found the non skid I want for my boat.

What do you think?
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Old 12-13-2013, 10:57 AM   #143
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Poked in the eye!
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What kind of boat is that?
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Old 12-13-2013, 01:12 PM   #144
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Greetings,
I think that should be posted in the searchlight thread.
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Old 12-15-2013, 07:27 AM   #145
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Great boat shoes!!
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Old 12-15-2013, 07:37 AM   #146
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Old 01-30-2014, 09:22 AM   #147
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Sorry to take so long getting back to the forum.

I completed the port side deck and laid two layers of 12oz cloth with epoxy. It hasn't been faired yet but it's covered and waterproof. The bulwarks have been epoxied in place also. I have yet to install the rub rail and will need a lot of assistance to do that task as it's one piece and longer than either finger on the sides of the boat. There are screws in it that I need to remove also.

I'm working on the starboard side deck now and need to complete this side ASAP. Weather being the factor here. So far, the drought in CA has helped keep the boat dry. We get a very wet fog occasionally and it takes half a day for it to dry.

This is looking at the starboard side deck with the teak still on it.
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Old 01-30-2014, 09:27 AM   #148
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I replaced the stanchions with temporary ones and removed the teak deck about 8'. There is a section of sub deck showing. In the picture you see the engine room fresh air vent and fuel fill.

When I removed the teak decking I found the sub deck was wet. Since it hasn't rained I was surprised to see that. When I remove the sub deck today I'll get a good look at the fuel tank below it. Hopefully I won't find too much rust.

It's supposed to rain tonight but they are only expecting a trace.
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Old 02-01-2014, 05:14 PM   #149
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Coming along nicely there CH. Hope the wet deck doesn't turn into anything too major.
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:05 AM   #150
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I'm pulling up the subdeck and replacing it with new. I just hope the stringers are sound. In case they need replacing I have mahogany I can use. I'm just at the point of where this job is wearing me out and I need to complete it before I burn out.
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:11 AM   #151
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I know what you are saying. My project is beating me up also..The thought process is wearing me down. Don't stop now . If you stop I might stop . Hang in there .
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:10 PM   #152
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Thanks Pack Mule, it looks like we both need encouragement from time to time.

I'm back on it and will have this section of the sub deck removed tomorrow. It has cooled down a lot but long sleeves and pants with layers and I'll get it done. I am only working on it 4 to 5 days a week with weekends off.

I joined a band and have to learn about 50 songs for the gigs later this month so the mornings when the dew is drying, I'm rehearsing. It's all good.

Keep on it PM and lets get back to boating. .
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Old 02-04-2014, 08:12 PM   #153
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I am exhausted varnishing a few steps! I have been drawing my motivation from you both! Keep up the good work and pictures are awesome.
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Old 02-11-2014, 06:43 PM   #154
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Pulling the screws from the rub rail isn't an easy job. In fact, on the starboard side I have only been able to unscrew one screw so far. I keep trying and even with my heavy duty square shank screwdriver, I just can't get them to budge without destroying the head. They are slotted screws.

What I am doing is prying the rail out just enough for the blade of a reciprocating saw to cut the screw. The I work down the rail prying and cutting as I go. You can see I have tried to unscrew them all. I pull the plugs and try my best to unscrew them.

It doesn't matter anyway because the screw shaft is in the teak I'm throwing away and the head will pop out from the back with a punch.
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Old 02-11-2014, 07:36 PM   #155
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As you well know, there is a quick and easy "fix" for everything you have done. I am exceedingly happy to see someone actually do it the right way instead of the quick or easy way. Very unusuall. There is great pride in any job well done. Thanks
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Old 02-11-2014, 07:51 PM   #156
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I appreciate the compliment Kulas44, and the recognition of the level of the work I am striving to do. My dad always said, do it the right way and you'll only do it once. You won't have time to do it over again.
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Old 02-12-2014, 02:48 AM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Portuguese View Post
Capthead:

No matter what people say about wood, I would like to see any other floor lasting on a deck, 47 years.
I am very happy not only for you and your boat. I am also happy for choosing wood/epoxy to build my Rainha Jannota
Thanks for your thread
Portuguese
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:37 AM   #158
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Let me say this about the teak deck. I think if it had been installed in a different manner I would still keep the deck. However, the system they used to install the deck on my and many other 60's era boats didn't stand up over time.

First, they used an unsealed sub deck that was 3/8" thick and made of mahogany which is prone to dry rot.

Second, they placed 3/4" teak over the bare sub deck with a slight swiping of a glue of some sort.

Third, they used boat nails which cannot be pulled easily nor driven deeper. Therefore, as the deck wears the plugs above the nail heads wear thin and go away.

This is when water seeps into and under the sub deck and rots it. Then when you walk on it the teak crushes the rotted sub deck and the nail comes up further. The rings on the nail act like sandpaper and enlarge the hole so more water can seep below.

Eventually, black mold covers the sub deck and under it.

This is why I am replacing the entire deck and replacing any damaged stringers as I go. I am soaking the sub deck with penetrating epoxy, painting over that with a barrier coat 2 part epoxy primer and over that an epoxy top coat. This should prevent further damage from water and keep the mold issue at bay.
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Old 02-12-2014, 01:39 PM   #159
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I replaced my upper teak deck with a fiberglass one. Mine is a 1977 and was going to ruin the boat if i did not uproot it. I regret the loss of the wood but there is still PLENTY on this boat and nothing lasts forever. The new deck looks great. great work Capt and I also admire your work. Keep at it. It will end sometime and you will know you have done it right.
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Old 02-14-2014, 08:32 AM   #160
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I removed the last piece of teak deck that was underneath the bulwarks. This is the hardest job because there is only the space of the sawzall blade between the bulwarks and the teak. Then you have screws and nails going through the teak.

After it was cleaned out I started lifting the sub deck which is also nailed down. I bought clamps from Harbor Freight and I use them to pop the nails up. I get them to go under the subdeck at the house and twist them which raises the deck and pops up a nail. I use two and work them down the deck until it's loose.

I should mention GB used a polysulfide deck caulking at the deck house seam and stuck the sub deck seam down with it. To cut that loose I used the Harbor Freight Fein tool clone and it cut a clean cut. Much better than the razor knife I used port side.

If you break a clamp, they have a lifetime guaranty and free replacement. I know, done it already.
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