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Old 08-28-2013, 07:58 PM   #81
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Tangler, thanks for joining in. I can't stress the importance of this job to any boat owner who has an ageing teak deck. The seam sealing material might look good from your view but water can get past it and will. Think of it this way. Water only has three atoms. It can find it's self anywhere it wants to go and when it meets unsealed wood, dry rot.

DRY ROT!!!

It isn't pretty. Then black mold.
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Old 09-06-2013, 06:18 AM   #82
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I've been moving aft on the port side and I'm about 1/2 way to the cockpit. I uncovered the fuel tank and found plenty of rust sitting on top of the tank. I also found two cracked deck support beams that even after I epoxied them together I decided to make new ones.

I bought a 6/4 African Mahogany board and using the old stringer as a template I cut two new ones. After cleaning, scraping and vacuuming the tank, I coated it with two coats of POR15. I'm going back with a white top coat today. So far, this is going great and I am so glad I'm doing the job. The boat needed it badly.
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Old 09-06-2013, 10:54 AM   #83
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Huge job well done. A job like this sure makes you come up with creative ideas on how to accomplish "reverse" construction of these pieces. The stern of my upper deck had compound curves...the slope or cant of the deck to the outer edges and the curve of the stern itself...a bench belt sander was really useful here along with every tool I had.. a lot of clamping on the dock using old pieces and new templates made of cardboard to get the shape. the piece also had to go around the hatch entry framing to the upper deck. It was an engineering marvel that took 2 weeks to build, weighed about 100 lb and took 4 guys to hold in place while it was installed all in one piece. Got to love it when a plan comes together!
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:45 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tangler View Post
Huge job well done. A job like this sure makes you come up with creative ideas on how to accomplish "reverse" construction of these pieces. The stern of my upper deck had compound curves...the slope or cant of the deck to the outer edges and the curve of the stern itself...a bench belt sander was really useful here along with every tool I had.. a lot of clamping on the dock using old pieces and new templates made of cardboard to get the shape. the piece also had to go around the hatch entry framing to the upper deck. It was an engineering marvel that took 2 weeks to build, weighed about 100 lb and took 4 guys to hold in place while it was installed all in one piece. Got to love it when a plan comes together!
That's what I'm talking about!!!

I love hearing how boaters can work on the dock with limited tools and fix the darndest things.
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:51 PM   #85
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I have the subdeck cut to fit. This was one of my best cuts ever. The front half of this board on the hull side has a 15 degree flair that means angle cut to that curved edge. The aft half is only 5 degrees. Somehow, the dock Gods shined upon me on that cut.

The fuel tank is now white with it's third coat of rust proof paint. It's not a minute too late either.

Now I can paint all the areas under the deck in the hull white. First coat will be 2 part epoxy primer then an enamel.
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Old 09-10-2013, 09:06 AM   #86
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Sunrise through the hammerheads in the Los Angeles Harbor Monday. I took the shot in the parking lot of my marina. That ship dock is over a mile away.

Thought I'd share.
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Old 09-17-2013, 08:00 AM   #87
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I am just about done along the port fuel tank. One last thing I waited to do with the deck replacement was the house wall on the bottom and corner of the door. This was repaired years ago in a boatyard and they of course used bondo. As you probably know, bondo and wood are a bad combination because polyester resins can soak up water and the powder they make bondo does too, to an extent. So in time the water feeds the rot spores and that patch comes off.

This is a picture of the wood after I pulled the bondo patch off. The new piece extends under the new deck and is now in place solid as a rock and with epoxy, not bondo.
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Old 09-19-2013, 08:13 AM   #88
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I replaced the rotted wood with a tight fit. In the picture you'll notice the subdeck is just laying in place. I'm going to use them as patterns for the upper deck pieces before I epoxy and screw them in place. I'm staggering the joints too so I have to always leave one not screwed down as I move aft.

After the deck is completed, I'll make a new door and refinish the frame with at least 15 coats of varnish.
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Old 09-20-2013, 07:44 AM   #89
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On my way down the deck I found the forward portlight had rot around it and mostly below it so I cut the whole area out for replacement. This was a repair a boatyard fixed with bondo. It's amazing how paint over bondo can hide so much damaged wood.

I have the okoume in place and I'll router the window area and make new frames. I'll epoxy coat the whole wall before installing. I don't want any chance for moisture to get into this fix.
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Old 09-20-2013, 07:46 AM   #90
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Just a footnote. This side was primed and ready for paint three years ago and we moved leaving it alone. Now I am finally back and finalizing the area.
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Old 09-26-2013, 08:09 AM   #91
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I haven't reported in a while and wanted to update. Progress is going well and I have sealed the inside of the hull around the engine room vents, sistered all the stringers from the boarding gate towards the cockpit and made new ones at the door. It will be strong.

I found a slight dry rot area in my sheer plank and I intend on replacing a portion of that. This has definitely changed from just a deck replacement to a restoration project on the port side. I'm hoping to finish the port by next week and move over to the starboard side.

I did take a day off and help a fellow boater take his boat to a haulout facility in the Newport Harbor.
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Old 10-23-2013, 08:39 AM   #92
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Lots of work since my last post. I replaced a section of my sheer plank, the top plank, that was 1/2 behind the rub rail. The part behind the rub rail was pretty much rotted but the part showing below the rub rail was not showing any signs. This was a measure three times cut once and it came out perfect.

I finally found oakum and cotton and packed the seam correctly. I just need some boat life caulking to complete the seam.

After cutting out the glass area from the new wall piece and making a new frame, I installed the glass and bedded it with a product I bought years ago and cannot find it online or anybody who knows about it.

Dolfinite Butyl White Compound and there isn't any cleaning instructions on the label. It's a rubber and it looks like it will last indefinitely and not dry out like the other dolfinite.

Does anyone know how to clean this up? I tried acetone, lacquer thinner, paint thinner, denatured alcohol and isopropyl. Nothing really works. When you pull this apart it leaves a string. It's rubber and I like it, just need to clean my mess up.
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Old 10-23-2013, 10:06 AM   #93
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Try toluene. It works on a lot of stuff nothing else will touch.
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Old 10-23-2013, 03:27 PM   #94
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Agree with toluene. If that fails, and you can get some, try 1-1-1 trichloroethane. Stuff is definitely not for kids.
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Old 10-23-2013, 04:06 PM   #95
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We used to thin it with Linseed oil and clean up with just paint thinner before it set. Once set it is a b*tch to get off. An old can says use 1481 Compound thinner but I have no idea what that is.
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Old 10-23-2013, 08:50 PM   #96
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I took a picture of this stuff. It's not the peanut butter kind it's like thick liquid rubber. I've never seen this before and bought a can from a store that bought an old warehouse of stuff.

When I got to the boat today the stuff had dried and it was easy to scrape it off the glass with a razor blade. Then it rolls up like that rubber stuff behind the credit cards that come in the mail.

I hope it hardens enough to sand off the frame. I really screwed up not taping off first, but I thought a quick wipe would clean it up.
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:52 PM   #97
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I see its main ingredient is NAPHTHA (PETROLEUM SPIRITS OR BENZIN) so assume this would clean it up also??
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Old 10-24-2013, 07:49 AM   #98
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Thank you, I'll buy some on the way to the boat this morning.
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Old 10-25-2013, 09:15 AM   #99
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I see its main ingredient is NAPHTHA (PETROLEUM SPIRITS OR BENZIN) so assume this would clean it up also??
I bought some and it works great. Thank you very much!!
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Old 10-25-2013, 09:21 AM   #100
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Whew! That's great. Glad I could help. You doing an awesome job!
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