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Old 07-24-2013, 07:39 AM   #41
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I'm also going to move the hawse pipe more aft and build a box between the cap rail on top of the bulwarks and the deck. I'll use this space for my anchor locker and the locker below in the V berth I'll convert to storage. I can put the bedding in there and keep the V berth with a cleaner look.
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Old 07-25-2013, 09:24 AM   #42
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Another day and more progress. I only worked a half day after a trip to the lumberyard and spending almost 300 on two sheets of Okoume and a 9' mahogany board. I should have measured better but the bow pieces will take 2 sheets each of 9mm and 18mm. I chose to buy Okoume for this project but there are other less expensive marine grade plys available. The thing to consider is the less you pay, the fewer the number of plys and the strength lessens. Okume is lighter weight also which is a plus.

I got the sub deck removed and cleaned the many nails off the frame members (I don't know what they are called). They are in excellent shape and show no signs of any dry rot so a soaking of CPES and a quick painting should clean them up nicely. No, I won;t paint the top edge where the deck connects to.
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:08 AM   #43
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You must he let go with a sigh of relief when you confirmed that she has healthy bones.

Loving this thread...thanks for the updates.
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:02 PM   #44
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Quote:
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You must he let go with a sigh of relief when you confirmed that she has healthy bones.

Loving this thread...thanks for the updates.
Al, you just don't know the sigh of relief I didn't have to go deeper into her bones. I had wooded her complete hull and cleaned out every seam, them repacked them after soaking the wood and inside the seams with epoxy.

I am now in the construction and replacing phase. I thoroughly cleaned the inside hull and then soaked all the wood with Smiths CPES. I might do a second soaking tomorrow.
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:06 PM   #45
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I am going to convert the anchor locker to a bedding closet. I'll sand and paint this area and then place inner walls and floor. My new anchor locker will be above the deck and no water will ever get below decks now.
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:16 PM   #46
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Nice idea. Will you add an overboard drain to the new locker to allow mud and water to drain overboard? When I had a power winch, my decks would get covered with the mud, weeds and water from the anchor and chain. Adding a RW anchor washdown also helped.
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Old 07-25-2013, 09:41 PM   #47
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I had wooded her complete hull and cleaned out every seam
Loving this thread and you're making great progress

I've heard the term wooded before and never understood its meaning in regards to working on wood boats. Can you explain it to me please? Is this a reference to sanding to bare wood perhaps?



FlyWright and TomB, I'm not interested in you guys explanation!!!
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:10 PM   #48
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Kiwi Grip - the wording caught my attention !!
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:20 PM   #49
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I`ve heard "wooded" used as 'high wooded", or "low wooded", indicating hull height above waterline, ie freeboard. I also think Capthead means taking the hull back to bare wood, it fits with the work.
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:46 PM   #50
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Wooded does mean taking the hull back to bare wood. Most haulout facilities would sand blast the hulls. Then the EPA got hold of silica and now they use other materials. Mine was blasted with a black grainy particle. I don't know what it was.
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:48 PM   #51
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Al, yes to the overboard drain.
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:14 PM   #52
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Wooded does mean taking the hull back to bare wood.
Thank you. Quite frankly I was afraid to try a Google search on that one.
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Old 07-26-2013, 12:00 AM   #53
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Al, yes to the overboard drain.
A suggestion; lead the drain hose down and have the outlet below the boot stripe. Otherwise you'll have rust stains down your top sides.

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Old 07-26-2013, 08:58 AM   #54
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Thank you Scott. I was thinking about that exact thing (rust stains down the hull) and your suggestion came at the right time.

I appreciate all suggestions.
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:52 AM   #55
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This morning early around 2:00 AM we were awoke to the sounds of rolling thunder, sharp cracking booming thunder and very bright lightening. Here I am in So Cal where it never thunders and the driest months are July-Sept. It rained a slight amount too. Just enough to get the street wet and dirty up my car.

I'm so glad I soaked the bare wood with penetrating epoxy yesterday and filled the nail holes with it to soak in.
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Old 07-26-2013, 09:23 PM   #56
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Today I prepped and painted the locker area and cut out the dry rot area in my bulwarks. I wish I could have done more but today wasn't that kind of day.

The good thing about the bulwarks is that dry rot area was less than half of what I cut out.

The blue plastic is incase we get more rain.
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:12 PM   #57
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The last two days have been busy for me. I have removed the deck past the bow area and going aft both sides. When I got the subdeck removed port side near the bow I found three support members had cracked. They were originally glued into place and that glue had come lose over the years. I removed them and cleaned them up. I'll fill the crack with epoxy and clamp it together. When they are in place, with more epoxy and thickener, I'll sister them.

This is why I removed the sub deck. I had so many people say just epoxy it and cover with new plywood. I would have never killed the black mold and found the cracked floor supports.

I removed the stanchions and made temporary ones from cheap 2x2 stock and smaller boards.

Looking at the top of the deck support boards, you can see the many many holes they put in them and the crooked lines they followed.
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:14 PM   #58
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I cut the first piece of sub deck and laid it in place. I amazed myself

It fit like a glove.
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Old 07-30-2013, 11:31 PM   #59
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Old 08-01-2013, 09:58 PM   #60
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All pieces of the deck area sub deck are now cut out and put in place to check the fit. I removed both side decks going aft for about 4 feet each side because when I fully install the sub deck in the bow area I can't have the old deck next to it.

The picture shows them in place and the next picture shows the newly cut pieces soaked in CPES. They are in reverse to the comment.
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