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Old 07-18-2013, 07:06 AM   #21
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I had a 5 hour day yesterday and managed to get 1/2 of the bow down to the sub deck. That deck is dry and I don't want to save it. I'll remove it after I get under the bulwarks.

I saw a boat in my marina with KiwiGrip and I wanted to use it on another place, just not this deck. Today I hope to get the rest of the bows teak removed.
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:50 AM   #22
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Daddyo, I only have the caulking between the deck boards to contend with. My sharp knife cutting between the boards is doing the trick so far.

My biggest problem is the boat nails. Some come right up, the others are stuck very hard. I guess in a way it's easier than pulling each bung, digging the remains out, then trying to remove fasteners that have the slots filled with glue and the heads strip before they come out, or they twist off.

I was thinking I would save some of this deck and make a coffee table for my patio. This wood is so dry and brittle I don't think It's savable.
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:22 AM   #23
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Big project, will be fun to follow along, all the best with it.
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Old 07-18-2013, 07:19 PM   #24
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Not as hard as your project but I replaced the aft deck on my lobsterboat about 12 years ago (10' X 12') Replaced with 2 layers of 1/2" fir ply,
prerolled with 2 coats epoxy then washed & scuff sanded b/4 cutting to size. The lower layer was fastened to the framing the the upper layer, joints staggered, set in thinkened epoxy applied with notched trowel and held down with several hundred drywall screws.When cured, drywall screwa removed, hatches were cutout with Skilsaw and they retained their crown nicely, ledges for the hatches were applied w/ epoxy & clamps. Finally teak strips were laid down as outlined in the West System book. $600 of teak covered the whole thing. Still looking good 12 yrs later.
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Old 07-18-2013, 07:22 PM   #25
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CaptHead, I had my (Europa design) boat done last year. The unprotected bow in non slip 2 pack over 2 layers of glass over the foam substrate; the protected sections aft in new glued teak, over one layer of f/g. As FlyWright says,the bow section gets seriously hot, too hot in summer without footwear.
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:07 PM   #26
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I made good progress today and got the teak of the bow and down both side deck a little. Then I started to remove the rub rail. This is when I ran into problems with removing the screws. There isn't a screwdriver that fits that slot. I tried mine and a friends then went to Home Depot and bought one anyway that is better than mine but still doesn't fit the slot.

I stripped the threads on one screw but did get six removed and one is still stuck.

The first pic is before.
Second pic is all teak removed with the sub deck still in place.
Third pic is the screw and screwdriver in the slot with a gap where it won't fit to the bottom. I think a file can fix that.
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:22 PM   #27
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One of these may come in handy removing those slotted screws...
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Old 07-19-2013, 12:36 AM   #28
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I wish I had one, Craig.
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Old 07-19-2013, 12:50 AM   #29
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One of these may come in handy removing those slotted screws...
Old school! I love it. I wish I still had my Grandfather's.

Great job keeping us updated on your big job, CaptHead. Great stuff!
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Old 07-19-2013, 05:28 AM   #30
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can you grind the tip of a cheap screwdriver to fit?
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Old 07-19-2013, 06:42 AM   #31
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can you grind the tip of a cheap screwdriver to fit?
That was my first thought.
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:19 AM   #32
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I didn't have a ply underlayment so to speak unless you considered it the core under a thin glass skin...but I crow barred away until about 10 sq ft of screw heads were naked...then I used a 1/2 inch drill (screws were stainless/Phillips head), then used vice grips on the ones that broke/heads stripped.

Can't say the same would work in this case...but getting a flow of tools and motion is 1/2 the battle.
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Old 07-19-2013, 07:29 AM   #33
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CapHead said: "...In fact, the sub deck was never sealed except for the black glue they used between the teak and it. It's all going away this month and I am replacing the deck with European 12mm marine multi ply as the sub deck and their 19mm on top of that. All will be sealed first with penetrating epoxy and the underneath of the deck will be primered and painted before instillation.

I will use epoxy with fillers added for strength between the sub and top deck. On top of the top deck I will lay cloth and epoxy it in place with a radius to the cabin sides and bulwarks. There won't be any sharp corners...."

The above states the proper and most efficient way to renew such floor and deck. Epoxy impregnated wood is the only way and it will last another 47 years or more, having in mind that the original was not impregnated with such material.

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Old 07-19-2013, 11:16 AM   #34
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I wish I had one, Craig.
If I could not source an appropriate brace and bit my second choice would be one of the new generation 'Impact Drivers' sold at home centers in the cordless tool section. Impact drivers install and remove fasteners with a surprisingly gentle impact hammering. We have been using them for over a decade to install/remove many varieties of fasteners including screws.

The do no damage to screw heads if appropriately sized. You can get a set of slotted screw tips and modify to fit your screw. It really helps if you have a friend who is a machinist or retired one that can restore the temper through a simple heat treatment process called oil quenching after you modify to fit.

Good luck
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:24 AM   #35
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If I may make a suggestion. I've removed a lot of screws and rusted or stuck bolts etc over the years. I've found the following to works well.

1.) Heat the screw - For small screws use a soldering iron or a small gas torch.

2.) Stick the screw driver on the screw, hit it with a hammer then wind it out. The screw is either brass or copper so it won't take much to make the driver fit the head

3.) a drop of oil on the heads and left overnight always works well.

If all else fails, grab the power saw :-)

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Old 07-22-2013, 10:15 AM   #36
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If I could not source an appropriate brace and bit my second choice would be one of the new generation 'Impact Drivers' sold at home centers in the cordless tool section. Impact drivers install and remove fasteners with a surprisingly gentle impact hammering. We have been using them for over a decade to install/remove many varieties of fasteners including screws.

The do no damage to screw heads if appropriately sized. You can get a set of slotted screw tips and modify to fit your screw. It really helps if you have a friend who is a machinist or retired one that can restore the temper through a simple heat treatment process called oil quenching after you modify to fit.

Good luck
It just so happens the marina has one of those Dewalt fine tools and an assortment of bits. They were very gracious and lent me the tool with the biggest bit they had. It was too narrow and thin for the screw but I thought maybe I could gently budge a few turns with it and then use my screwdriver.

That is what stripped the screw head. I gave the light quick touch and BAM the head went south.

I bought a new screwdriver and brought it home with the best screw I had removed and filed it to match. BTW, they are 4" long screws.
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Old 07-22-2013, 10:19 AM   #37
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Hendo78, I am buying a soldering iron from a leaded glass supply house today. I tried my soldering gun but it doesn't have the horsepower for 4" screws. I tried that Thursday and even though I couldn't get them real hot, it seemed to work.
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Old 07-23-2013, 04:51 AM   #38
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Hendo78, I am buying a soldering iron from a leaded glass supply house today. I tried my soldering gun but it doesn't have the horsepower for 4" screws. I tried that Thursday and even though I couldn't get them real hot, it seemed to work.
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Old 07-23-2013, 08:51 AM   #39
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Good News! The screws came out on the port side and I chiseled out the teak from under the bulwarks. That was after using a sawzall to cut the screws between them. I now have the whole port side bow area removed under the bulwarks.

I started removing the rub rail on the starboard side and it's not coming off like the port side. I am going to have to pull it apart as it is actually two layers of wood and glued together. The screws from that thin layer are holding real well and won't pull out like the port side did.

I'll have pictures tonight. I forgot my camera yesterday.
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Old 07-24-2013, 06:15 AM   #40
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I got the rub rail removed far enough to allow the bow area to be cleaned out of the teak and I am now in the process of removing the sub deck. I took one piece off to check the health of the beams below it and I was very happy to see the ones I exposed were in great shape.

I only split the starboard rub rail far enough to get the first three screws out. Then I found the remaining screws were exposed below the top layer and I didn't need to split it. The problem I had with them was someone had screwed them with epoxy and covered the heads with it too. They didn't want to move. They were stuck and nothing would move them. My friend came with an impact tool and it ended up twisting the blade on the tool.

I ended up placing a 1/2" hole saw over them and sawing a hole deep enough to chisel out enough wood to get vice grips on the screw heads. This removed enough wood and epoxy for them to be twisted out.
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