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Old 07-24-2016, 09:03 AM   #581
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Greetings,
Mr. SK. How about a beer/epoxy fridge in the shed? Pre-cool the epoxy to allow for a longer pot life and/or after mixing, put your Solo cup in a container of ice. Surely you can convince the Admiral of the urgent need for a fridge in the shed...

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Old 07-24-2016, 10:18 AM   #582
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Perfect! I can pretty much 'guestimate' the proper amount required for a particular job now. They're cheap but unfortunately not reusable. I use three different sizes depending on the job.



All you have to remember is stir for two minutes and remember to scrape the sides and bottom as you stir. For larger jobs I'll use the static mixing nozzles on the Sticky Stuff dispenser and have 1 qt plastic containers to move it to a paint tray.

The bigger the batch you mix the more risk of it going off in the cup!

I'll have to remember that the next time I mix up a batch.
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Old 07-24-2016, 12:19 PM   #583
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Greetings,
Mr. SK. How about a beer/epoxy fridge in the shed? Pre-cool the epoxy to allow for a longer pot life and/or after mixing, put your Solo cup in a container of ice. Surely you can convince the Admiral of the urgent need for a fridge in the shed...
Hey RTF

Yes that is a possibility. I have been able to avoid it up till now. I work in smaller batches and if I'm laminating a large area I dump the epoxy right into a paint tray. Actually two trays. one holds ice and the other sits on top. The one drawback is, well actually two, first you need a nice level surface to sit the trays on, pretty much not doable on a bare boat hull and two, the cooler the epoxy is the thicker it is and the less it wants to wet out the fabric or tape.

I try to get my epoxy work done in the morning before it gets too hot. Haven't ruined a batch in awhile.

I had a small fridge and didn't figure I'd have a use for it so I gave it away!
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Old 07-25-2016, 11:53 AM   #584
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I managed to get a couple of hours in on the boat this morning. Located Frame B and tabbed it in place.


I'll finish that up tomorrow then work on the rest of the bow & Frame A puzzle.
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Old 07-25-2016, 12:59 PM   #585
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Do these frame/bulkheads locate the sole height?If yes,how are you insuring that the tops are all on the same level, to prevent bowing or sagging in the finished floor?
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Old 07-25-2016, 02:47 PM   #586
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Do these frame/bulkheads locate the sole height?If yes,how are you insuring that the tops are all on the same level, to prevent bowing or sagging in the finished floor?
My first answer is yes. The next answer is I'm not, at this point. I have the base line B/L drawn on the sides and that's what informs the location of things like the bunk height & sole etc. If I have to, later, I can add or remove material to correct for any deficiencies.

I would say, from what I've observed on these first two bulkheads I'm within 1/8" of design specs.

A good laser level that shows vertical and horizontal is, IMHO essential on a build like this.



Good question Ben. Thanks.
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Old 07-27-2016, 01:55 PM   #587
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Ahhhh,I see.Thanks for clearing that up.
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Old 07-27-2016, 02:20 PM   #588
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Every dimension is taken off the B/L. You can see it in this image. My laser level is lined up on the B/L and you can see on the right where it is carved into the MDF form by the CnC machine.



I don't know if this system is used on every type of boat but it's the one used exclusively by Bateau on their designs.

Pretty slick. Works well for numbskulls like me!
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Old 07-27-2016, 07:22 PM   #589
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It seems to be a fairly easy way to do it.
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Old 07-28-2016, 06:13 PM   #590
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Have to remove part of the cradle that the boat is sitting in to fit the skeg. So away I go for some 'under the boat' yoga!



It's nasty under there! Like rolling around in itching powder! So off I go to one of my favorite stores for some cheap packing blankets to lay on. Much better than rolling around in the dirt and kat turds!

This is the section of the cradle I have to cut out to make room to fit up the skeg.



That pretty much summarizes what I put on the latest web log update: https://she-kon.blogspot.ca/2016/07/still-at-it.html
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Old 07-29-2016, 09:43 AM   #591
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Is she stiff enough to build some boat stands for her,and cut out the craddle?

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Old 07-29-2016, 09:44 AM   #592
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I should note,that this pic was stolen from goo goo images.
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Old 07-29-2016, 10:29 AM   #593
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Is she stiff enough to build some boat stands for her,and cut out the craddle?
IIRC my grade 6 physics lessons () she'll hold all right!

Most of the weight is sitting on the keel which I blocked up (again) yesterday. Coincidentally I was shopping for boat stands yesterday. OMG they're spendy for what you get. Might have to break out the ole' stick welder and make me a set. Those wooden ones look like they'd fill the bill for now though. Thnx. Ben.
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Old 07-29-2016, 08:57 PM   #594
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IIRC my grade 6 physics lessons () she'll hold all right!

Most of the weight is sitting on the keel which I blocked up (again) yesterday. Coincidentally I was shopping for boat stands yesterday. OMG they're spendy for what you get. Might have to break out the ole' stick welder and make me a set. Those wooden ones look like they'd fill the bill for now though. Thnx. Ben.

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Old 07-30-2016, 11:17 AM   #595
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So today I test fitted the collapsible water tank. I think it'll work. It certainly fills up the void space below the engine.



Once that was done I jumped under the boat to finish cutting away the cradle so I could slide the skeg in and rough fit it into place just to see how things were going to line up. Pretty close.



There's that and a few more musings on today's web log update: https://she-kon.blogspot.ca/2016/07/my- ... lanky.html

Thanks for looking in.
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Old 08-01-2016, 01:04 PM   #596
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So after some thought (which is hard when you only have 2 brain cells left) I figured out how to line up the skeg. Using my trusty laser level I set it up on the long axis of the box keel. Using a plumb bob through the hole for the rudder shaft I was able to locate the center of the rudder shaft and the first alignment hole, at the other end of the skeg.



It was so spot on the laser even lit up the plumb bob through the prop shaft hole. Feeling confident I went on to start drilling holes in the bottom of the keel (shudder) and the stainless backing plate and skeg. I laid the 3/16" backing plate on top of the 1/4" thick skeg channel and drilled the holes at the same time. No small feat when all you have cheap tools. I did have titanium bits and plenty of cooling fluid.

Here's the backing plate in the bottom of the box keel. I would have done more but the bolts I have are too short. The bottom of the box keel has to be at least 1-1/2" thick!!!



More tomorrow.

Standby....
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:42 AM   #597
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I think I'll be happy with this!



Within 1/10 of 1 deg fore and aft & side to side. Next trick will be getting the rudder shaft vertical.

Too hot to work out there today. Besides I gotta go to the bank to fix one of their screwups!

Standby....
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Old 08-02-2016, 02:13 PM   #598
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Spot on.Looks good from down here.
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Old 08-07-2016, 03:53 PM   #599
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Cooled off just 'nuff to let me get back into the boat shed today. Started off drilling (trying to drill) the stainless plate & channel for the skeg. As it turns out I wasn't using the proper drill bits and chowdered them all to hell.

Managed to squeeze in some filleting & taping on Frame B. Had to skamper 'cause it was getting pretty warm in the shed.



My buddy Jimmy came over to use my vice and we managed to come up with a 'backyard eyeball engineering' solution to his throttle cable! All in all a decent day.

Few more pics on the web log update: https://she-kon.blogspot.ca/2016/08/lit ... ather.html

Standby....
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Old 08-07-2016, 05:46 PM   #600
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i just read about your drilling problem. when drilling ss it will work harden very quickly if it gets hot even in the slightest. a good sharp cobalt drill and don't peck at it. once you start don't stop till your through and keep it flooded with oil of cutting fluid to keep it cool. also depending on how close of tolerance it needs to be. you might want to drill it under size and finish with a reamer.
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